Hi Folks, First, thanks to Ray for the great article below on windows. My question is whether there is any particular difficulty with installing windows, which of course requires removing the old ones.
My house is about 30 years old, and has regular aluminum frame windows. The ones That open are horizontal sliders. There is 1 by 4 inch trim boards on the outside, covering the place where the window edges are. So after I remove those trim boards, what would I expect to find that is holding in the windows? Without ever having seen one of these windows out of the house frame, it seems it could not be very complicated, supposedly just a lip all around with holes to put the nails or screws through. After that, I would assume I would be using some foam or calk filler to seal air gaps. So am I under-estimating the job? Is this something where a person can save a lot of money, buying the windows yourself and doing your own installation? Tim Ford ----- Original Message ----- From: Boyce, Ray To: [email protected] Sent: Sunday, August 12, 2007 4:59 PM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Windows buyers Guide Windows: A Buying Guide house windows stylesWindows have a tremendous environmental influence on a house, affecting the light, ventilation, and temperature of the interior--and the comfort of the occupants. In addition, windows are part of a home's architectural identity, immediately conveying period and style. When you are choosing new windows, make sure the styles you select will suit your home both practically and aesthetically. Window styles Home windows, either fixed or operable, come in many shapes, sizes, and types and are made from a variety of materials. How do you select the right ones? There are several criteria to consider: your budget, your home's style, and your needs for a given window's performance. Think about the relative importance of ventilation and security; consider what you need in terms of ease of maintenance. And decide whether you want to emphasize the window as an architectural focal point or simply have it serve in a predominantly practical manner. Window orientation In addition to their size, where your windows are placed and what type they are have a significant effect on the amount of light and ventilation they provide. A south-facing window lets in the most light and is desirable in all but the hottest climates; a north window provides soft, diffuse light. Because of the low angle of the sun in the morning and late afternoon, light and heat from east- and west-facing windows can be too intense. The view out a window is just as important as the light and ventilation the window provides. Windows connect us to the outdoors and enhance our sense of interior space. Consider the view before you decide the placement and size of your windows. MATERIALS: Windows are made from wood, aluminum, steel, vinyl, or fiberglass--or from a combination of these materials. In general, those that offer better weather protection cost more, but they pay off in low maintenance and energy savings. Jeld-wen wood wooden window Wood windows Wood tends to be the most popular window material, particularly for the parts of a window seen from indoors. Wood does not conduct cold or allow condensation as much as other materials do. However, wood is subject to shrinkage and swelling, so it will warp and rot over time--especially on the exterior--unless it is protected. Wood windows typically come unfinished unless you order them otherwise. If you intend to paint them, you can save work by purchasing them already primed on the exterior and/or interior surfaces of the frame and sash. Or you may be able to eliminate painting altogether--some manufacturers offer pre-painted windows in a number of standard colors. Clad-wood windows You will find that many of today's windows have wood inside and a tough, attractive exterior jacket of extruded aluminum or vinyl on the outside. The cladding, available in a few stock colors, covers both the sash and frame; it will keep windows virtually maintenance-free for years. With vinyl, the color permeates the material so scratches do not show. Aluminum will scratch, but it is tougher and easier to paint, and it comes in a wider variety of colors (though neither vinyl nor aluminum should require painting). Both types will resist rust and rot. Pella vinyl windowVinyl windows Vinyl windows are made from rigid, impact-resistant polyvinyl chloride (PVC) and have hollow spaces inside that make them resistant to heat loss and condensation. Inexpensive vinyl windows have a tendency to distort when exposed to extremes of heat and cold, making them harder to operate and allowing air leakage. Vinyl windows cannot be painted, and darker shades may fade over time. Steel windows Steel is more resistant to the elements than both aluminum and wood. But because of their expense, steel windows generally are not used in homes. If you have the budget, however, these attractive, low-maintenance windows will last for years. Aluminum windows Aluminum windows are more durable than bare wood and are also thinner, lighter, and easier to handle. They are insulated with a thermal break of extruded vinyl and sometimes also foam, which reduces heat loss and condensation. Finishes protect the aluminum from corrosion but deteriorate in coastal areas because of the moist, salty air. glazing. Two important ratings to check when buying windows and glazed doors are the R-value and the U-value. An R-value measures a material's resistance to heat transfer; the higher the R-value, the better the insulating properties of the glazing. U-value measures overall energy efficiency. It tells you the rate at which heat flows through the entire window or door, frame and all. The lower the U-value, the more energy-efficient the window or door. An average U-value is fine for warm climates; in cold climates, a lower U-value is worth the premium you are likely to pay for it. Insulating glazing typically has two, or sometimes as many as three, panes of glass sealed together with either air or argon gas trapped between them to act as an insulator. Some units have a plastic film suspended between two glass panes. If the unit is properly sealed, condensation shouldn't occur between the panes; sometimes a drying agent (called a desiccant) is used in the spacer (the strip inside the panes that helps keep them apart) as added insurance against condensation. There is no easy way to get rid of condensation in dual glazing, so one very important reason for buying windows and doors with a strong warranty is to ensure that they will be backed if the seal fails and condensation does occur. You will discover that there are also a number of glass products on the market for special situations and uses, including safety glass and stained glass. Here is a closer look at both high-performance and specialty glazing: Low-Emissivity Glass Low-emissivity, or low-e, glazing has a film applied to one of the glass surfaces or suspended between the panes. This coating or film allows light in but also prevents some solar rays from being transmitted through the glass. A low-e coating can help keep your home cool on a hot day by blocking longer-wave radiant heat from entering, and on a cold day it can prevent the radiant interior heat from escaping through the glass. Low-e coatings also block ultraviolet rays, which reduces the fading of floors, floor coverings, drapes, and upholstery. Tinted Glass Usually given a bronze or gray cast, tinted glass dramatically cuts glare and heat from the sun (solar gain) yet only slightly reduces the amount of light admitted into your home. Where sun-caused fading or damage may be a serious problem, such as at unprotected south-facing windows, you may want to opt for glass with a solar bronze or solar gray tint to reject UV rays. Reflective Glass Like tinted glass, reflective glass reduces solar gain. From outside, it appears to be a mirror, obscuring the view in. Safety Glass Required by some local building codes for certain situations, safety glass is always a good choice if there's any risk of a person walking through a window. Safety glass is available tempered, laminated, or wire-reinforced. Tempered glass is heat-treated during the manufacturing process and crumbles (instead of shattering) if broken. Laminated glass has a film of plastic that holds the glass together if broken. Wire-reinforced glass clings to its wire mesh if broken. Stained Glass Before choosing a stained-glass window, don't just consider its design and size--think about the color scheme of the room, the direction the panel will face, and the amount of outdoor view you'd like. A rectangular or curved stained-glass frame around a clear pane can focus attention on the view. A stained-glass panel the size of the window will block out an undesirable view. Stained glass also can be lovely around doors, but check to see if this is permitted by your local codes. Do not use stained glass where people could walk into it. You can install small stained-glass panels in the same way you would install ordinary clear panes. Large panels need additional support for permanent installation; for example, you may need to fit them into routed wood frames or block their edges on both sides with wood strips nailed to the sill and window frame. Be sure to set the stained-glass panel in glazing putty, and caulk all outside joints. How to Replace A Broken Window Pane Replacing broken glass in a single-pane wooden window, especially a small one, is not difficult. Wear heavy gloves and safety goggles. Before removing broken glass, tape newspaper to the inside of the sash to catch splinters. Then, pad glass shards with layers of newspaper to transport the debris to the garbage. To bed the new glass, you can use conventional glazing compound, which is like a thick paste and is applied with a putty knife, or a newer caulk-like compound that is applied with a caulking gun (this can be a little trickier to apply). Because panes of glass larger than 2 by 3 feet are awkward and dangerous to handle, replacing them is best left to a professional installer. Table with 3 columns and 2 rows 1. Tape the cracked pane with a cross-hatch of duct tape to prevent glass shards from falling out as you work. Be sure to wear safety glasses during this task. When you're finished, you can tape newspaper to the inside of the window to help catch broken glass. 2. Use a 5-in-1 tool to remove the old window putty. If necessary, warm the old putty with a heat gun, but be very careful not to scorch the frame (keep a fire extinguisher nearby). Wear heavy work gloves. 3. Remove any broken glass, and then pry out metal glazier's points. Use a wire brush to scrub the rabbeted area of the window frame. Dust it off, and then apply linseed oil to the rabbet, using a small brush. 4. Soften the glazing compound by warming it. Then roll it into a thin rope with your hands, and use a 5-in-1 tool and your fingers to press this rope around the opening where the glass will go. 5. Press the new pane into place, and remove excess putty. Secure the pane by pressing glazier's points into place with a 5-in-1 tool (use two points on each side for small panes and one point every 4 to 6 inches for larger ones). Be careful not to push against the glass; this could crack it. 6. Roll more putty into a rope about 1/4 inch thick; apply it around the outside edges. With a putty knife, smooth and bevel the putty at about a 30-degree angle, keeping the top edge even with the inside edge of the muntin. Once the putty is dry, paint it to match the wood. ********************************************************************** This message and its attachments may contain legally privileged or confidential information. If you are not the intended recipient, you must not disclose or use the information contained in it. If you have received this e-mail in error, please notify the sender immediately by return e-mail and delete the e-mail. Any content of this message and its attachments which does not relate to the official business of Eraring Energy must be taken not to have been sent or endorsed by Eraring Energy. 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