Thanks for the hints and the encouragement!
----- Original Message -----
From: Dale Leavens
To: [email protected]
Sent: Sunday, August 19, 2007 3:29 PM
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Windows buyers Guide
Hi Tim,
You certainly can save a lot of money installing windows yourself. You can
probably also sell the old ones or reuse them for greenhousing or something
similar.
The connection to the house differs with the window. If only the frame is
aluminium and the main structure is wood they may be nailed in from the sides.
You slip a saw blade between the frame of the window and the structural framing
of the house and cut them off. I believe this is the main reason why God made
the reciprocal saw.
Some have metal straps attached to the frame of the window which are bent out
over the edge of the framing. If their surface is exposed, and sometimes that
is on the inside under the trim then you can pull or cut the nails.
The windows and doors I installed in this house and there were 7 3 by six
foot, 3 3 by 4 foot and 4 30 inches by 4 foot and a few smaller ones and a
French and two other doors all had an aluminium folded strip along the top and
two sides externally something like the shape of angle iron with holes every
inch and a half or so for nails. I didn't use anything like all of the holes
don't know if you are supposed to or not.
Thing is to shim the window vertical and square then nail it in. I like to
spray foam into the space between the window frame and the frame of the house
unless the space is more than about half an inch. If you can access any vapor
barrier then it is a very good thing to cut a strip of poly about 8 inches wide
and stick it to the side of the frame of the window with calking and staples
making a double pleat at the corners so you can then fold it out and calk or
tape it to the vapor barrier. This insures a totally draft proof air tight seal
between the house and the interior envelope. This is much easier to do in new
construction of course.
Windows tend to be very heavy though, you want to measure first to be sure it
will fit and often, maybe usually will want an extra pair of hands to lift one
into place. Many of mine had to go into the second story which complicates two
man management.
I found that I liked to raise the window more or less into place then set the
top in first and glide the frame up until I could slip the bottom into place.
This makes managing the awkward thing much easier, less opportunity for the top
to swing out and it keeps your centre of gravity lower where you are more
stable and can work better.
Hope this helps.
Dale Leavens, Cochrane Ontario Canada
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Skype DaleLeavens
Come and meet Aurora, Nakita and Nanook at our polar bear habitat.
----- Original Message -----
From: Timothy Ford
To: [email protected]
Sent: Saturday, August 18, 2007 1:56 PM
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Windows buyers Guide
Hi Folks,
First, thanks to Ray for the great article below on windows. My question is
whether there is any particular difficulty with installing windows, which of
course requires removing the old ones.
My house is about 30 years old, and has regular aluminum frame windows. The
ones That open are horizontal sliders. There is 1 by 4 inch trim boards on the
outside, covering the place where the window edges are.
So after I remove those trim boards, what would I expect to find that is
holding in the windows?
Without ever having seen one of these windows out of the house frame, it
seems it could not be very complicated, supposedly just a lip all around with
holes to put the nails or screws through. After that, I would assume I would be
using some foam or calk filler to seal air gaps.
So am I under-estimating the job? Is this something where a person can save
a lot of money, buying the windows yourself and doing your own installation?
Tim Ford
----- Original Message -----
From: Boyce, Ray
To: [email protected]
Sent: Sunday, August 12, 2007 4:59 PM
Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Windows buyers Guide
Windows: A Buying Guide
house windows stylesWindows have a tremendous environmental influence on
a house, affecting the light, ventilation, and temperature of the
interior--and
the comfort of the occupants. In addition, windows are part of a home's
architectural identity, immediately conveying period and style. When you
are choosing
new windows, make sure the styles you select will suit your home both
practically and aesthetically.
Window styles
Home windows, either fixed or operable, come in many shapes, sizes, and
types and are made from a variety of materials. How do you select the
right ones?
There are several criteria to consider: your budget, your home's style,
and your needs for a given window's performance.
Think about the relative importance of ventilation and security;
consider what you need in terms of ease of maintenance. And decide
whether you want to
emphasize the window as an architectural focal point or simply have it
serve in a predominantly practical manner.
Window orientation
In addition to their size, where your windows are placed and what type
they are have a significant effect on the amount of light and
ventilation they provide.
A south-facing window lets in the most light and is desirable in all but
the hottest climates; a north window provides soft, diffuse light.
Because of the
low angle of the sun in the morning and late afternoon, light and heat
from east- and west-facing windows can be too intense.
The view out a window is just as important as the light and ventilation
the window provides. Windows connect us to the outdoors and enhance our
sense of
interior space. Consider the view before you decide the placement and
size of your windows.
MATERIALS:
Windows are made from wood, aluminum, steel, vinyl, or fiberglass--or
from a combination of these materials. In general, those that offer
better weather
protection cost more, but they pay off in low maintenance and energy
savings.
Jeld-wen wood wooden window
Wood windows
Wood tends to be the most popular window material, particularly for the
parts of a window seen from indoors. Wood does not conduct cold or allow
condensation
as much as other materials do. However, wood is subject to shrinkage and
swelling, so it will warp and rot over time--especially on the
exterior--unless
it is protected.
Wood windows typically come unfinished unless you order them otherwise.
If you intend to paint them, you can save work by purchasing them
already primed
on the exterior and/or interior surfaces of the frame and sash. Or you
may be able to eliminate painting altogether--some manufacturers offer
pre-painted
windows in a number of standard colors.
Clad-wood windows
You will find that many of today's windows have wood inside and a tough,
attractive exterior jacket of extruded aluminum or vinyl on the outside.
The cladding,
available in a few stock colors, covers both the sash and frame; it will
keep windows virtually maintenance-free for years. With vinyl, the color
permeates
the material so scratches do not show. Aluminum will scratch, but it is
tougher and easier to paint, and it comes in a wider variety of colors
(though
neither vinyl nor aluminum should require painting). Both types will
resist rust and rot.
Pella vinyl windowVinyl windows
Vinyl windows are made from rigid, impact-resistant polyvinyl chloride
(PVC) and have hollow spaces inside that make them resistant to heat
loss and condensation.
Inexpensive vinyl windows have a tendency to distort when exposed to
extremes of heat and cold, making them harder to operate and allowing
air leakage.
Vinyl windows cannot be painted, and darker shades may fade over time.
Steel windows
Steel is more resistant to the elements than both aluminum and wood. But
because of their expense, steel windows generally are not used in homes.
If you
have the budget, however, these attractive, low-maintenance windows will
last for years.
Aluminum windows
Aluminum windows are more durable than bare wood and are also thinner,
lighter, and easier to handle. They are insulated with a thermal break
of extruded
vinyl and sometimes also foam, which reduces heat loss and condensation.
Finishes protect the aluminum from corrosion but deteriorate in coastal
areas
because of the moist, salty air.
glazing.
Two important ratings to check when buying windows and glazed doors are
the R-value and the U-value. An R-value measures a material's resistance
to heat
transfer; the higher the R-value, the better the insulating properties
of the glazing.
U-value measures overall energy efficiency. It tells you the rate at
which heat flows through the entire window or door, frame and all. The
lower the U-value,
the more energy-efficient the window or door. An average U-value is fine
for warm climates; in cold climates, a lower U-value is worth the
premium you
are likely to pay for it.
Insulating glazing typically has two, or sometimes as many as three,
panes of glass sealed together with either air or argon gas trapped
between them to
act as an insulator.
Some units have a plastic film suspended between two glass panes. If the
unit is properly sealed, condensation shouldn't occur between the panes;
sometimes
a drying agent (called a desiccant) is used in the spacer (the strip
inside the panes that helps keep them apart) as added insurance against
condensation.
There is no easy way to get rid of condensation in dual glazing, so one
very important reason for buying windows and doors with a strong
warranty is to
ensure that they will be backed if the seal fails and condensation does
occur.
You will discover that there are also a number of glass products on the
market for special situations and uses, including safety glass and
stained glass.
Here is a closer look at both high-performance and specialty glazing:
Low-Emissivity Glass
Low-emissivity, or low-e, glazing has a film applied to one of the glass
surfaces or suspended between the panes. This coating or film allows
light in but
also prevents some solar rays from being transmitted through the glass.
A low-e coating can help keep your home cool on a hot day by blocking
longer-wave
radiant heat from entering, and on a cold day it can prevent the radiant
interior heat from escaping through the glass. Low-e coatings also block
ultraviolet
rays, which reduces the fading of floors, floor coverings, drapes, and
upholstery.
Tinted Glass
Usually given a bronze or gray cast, tinted glass dramatically cuts
glare and heat from the sun (solar gain) yet only slightly reduces the
amount of light
admitted into your home. Where sun-caused fading or damage may be a
serious problem, such as at unprotected south-facing windows, you may
want to opt for
glass with a solar bronze or solar gray tint to reject UV rays.
Reflective Glass
Like tinted glass, reflective glass reduces solar gain. From outside, it
appears to be a mirror, obscuring the view in.
Safety Glass
Required by some local building codes for certain situations, safety
glass is always a good choice if there's any risk of a person walking
through a window.
Safety glass is available tempered, laminated, or wire-reinforced.
Tempered glass is heat-treated during the manufacturing process and
crumbles (instead
of shattering) if broken. Laminated glass has a film of plastic that
holds the glass together if broken. Wire-reinforced glass clings to its
wire mesh
if broken.
Stained Glass
Before choosing a stained-glass window, don't just consider its design
and size--think about the color scheme of the room, the direction the
panel will
face, and the amount of outdoor view you'd like. A rectangular or curved
stained-glass frame around a clear pane can focus attention on the view.
A stained-glass
panel the size of the window will block out an undesirable view. Stained
glass also can be lovely around doors, but check to see if this is
permitted by
your local codes. Do not use stained glass where people could walk into
it.
You can install small stained-glass panels in the same way you would
install ordinary clear panes. Large panels need additional support for
permanent installation;
for example, you may need to fit them into routed wood frames or block
their edges on both sides with wood strips nailed to the sill and window
frame.
Be sure to set the stained-glass panel in glazing putty, and caulk all
outside joints.
How to Replace A Broken Window Pane
Replacing broken glass in a single-pane wooden window, especially a
small one, is not difficult. Wear heavy gloves and safety goggles.
Before removing broken glass, tape newspaper to the inside of the sash
to catch splinters.
Then, pad glass shards with layers of newspaper to transport the debris
to the garbage.
To bed the new glass, you can use conventional glazing compound, which
is like a thick paste and is applied with a putty knife, or a newer
caulk-like compound
that is applied with a caulking gun (this can be a little trickier to
apply).
Because panes of glass larger than 2 by 3 feet are awkward and dangerous
to handle, replacing them is best left to a professional installer.
Table with 3 columns and 2 rows
1. Tape the cracked pane with a cross-hatch of duct tape to prevent
glass shards from falling out as you work. Be sure to wear safety
glasses during this
task. When you're finished, you can tape newspaper to the inside of the
window to help catch broken glass.
2. Use a 5-in-1 tool to remove the old window putty. If necessary, warm
the old putty with a heat gun, but be very careful not to scorch the
frame (keep
a fire extinguisher nearby). Wear heavy work gloves.
3. Remove any broken glass, and then pry out metal glazier's points. Use
a wire brush to scrub the rabbeted area of the window frame. Dust it
off, and then
apply linseed oil to the rabbet, using a small brush.
4. Soften the glazing compound by warming it. Then roll it into a thin
rope with your hands, and use a 5-in-1 tool and your fingers to press
this rope around
the opening where the glass will go.
5. Press the new pane into place, and remove excess putty. Secure the
pane by pressing glazier's points into place with a 5-in-1 tool (use two
points on
each side for small panes and one point every 4 to 6 inches for larger
ones). Be careful not to push against the glass; this could crack it.
6. Roll more putty into a rope about 1/4 inch thick; apply it around the
outside edges. With a putty knife, smooth and bevel the putty at about a
30-degree
angle, keeping the top edge even with the inside edge of the muntin.
Once the putty is dry, paint it to match the wood.
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To listen to the show archives go to link
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or
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The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
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Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various
List Members At The Following address:
http://www.jaws-users.com/handyman/
Visit the archives page at the following address
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If you would like to join the Blind Computing list, then visit the following
address for more information:
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For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man list
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