Beall Website -
http://www.bealltool.com

The Tilt box

 Review

Setting up machinery for accurate cutting has always been an ongoing,
and sometimes time consuming and painful task, but for fine woodwork
where accuracy
is paramount, it is a very necessary evil. The woodworker had to have an
array of angle setting tools, including squares, gauges and other sorts
of paraphernalia
to attempt to get that machine cutting the perfect angles need for the
job. And then there was the problem of whether your squares and angle
measuring
tools themselves were accurate, but that's a whole other story!

Now a new age of low-cost, high accuracy digital angle gauges are
hitting the market, promising fast machine setups with minimal fuss. We
will be looking
at several on this site, but the first unit we tested was the "Tilt Box"
by the Beall Tool Company.

The Beall Tilt Box
When I first saw this product advertised, I was quite excited. Setting
up tools, particularly the table saw and miter saw for accurate beveled
cuts is not
the easiest and quickest thing in the world to do, and it is even more
difficult when the bevel angle you need is not a common 45 degree. Also,
I have
also never trusted the hard stop on my table saw trunnion mechanism to
always bring me back to 90 degrees (square to the table) after moving it
from that
setting.

The Tilt Box measures 2 3/8" wide, 2 3/8" high and about 1 3/8" deep. It
is an all metal body that feels solid and could probably take a few
knocks without
causing any damage. But naturally, a precision device needs to be well
looked after, so hopefully any knocks are purely accidental! The Tilt
Box is powered
by a standard 9v battery, so there is no need to deal with specialized
batteries or battery chargers (unless of course you use rechargeable 9v
batteries
like I do). But you can always have a spare battery on hand so there is
no reason for any down time when using or needing to use the tool. A
groovy little
Philips head screwdriver comes packaged in the box to allow you to
access the battery compartment for battery changes. The front face
features a large
LCD display which is easily visible and readable from just about any
angle. There are only two control buttons on the tool, an "ON/OFF"
button, and a "Zero"
button, which means it is very easy to use (as all good tools should
be).
I hear you say this is no good for a blind person,  but I bring you
these tool reviewsso you know what is available then it is up to you if
you buy one or not.
Ray
The Tilt Box is a digital inclinometer, which through some nice
electronic gadgetry included inside, allows the user to measure an angle
relative to true
zero degrees, but it also allows the user to measure angles relative to
a "zeroed" reference surface, which some dial inclinometers cannot do.
On each
side of the tool are a set of powerful rare earth magnets which grab
onto anything metal (including your saw blades and machine fences -
unless the fences
are aluminum) meaning the unit can sit securely on the blade or fence
faces to provide hands free checking.

The Tilt box is very accurate, and can decipher angles up to 0.05 degree
resolution. This should ensure near perfect angle/bevel setups on a
variety of
machines. So let's look at how the Tilt Box actually works.

Measuring an Angle
Using the Tilt Box is very simple. Let's take a table saw setup for
example. Firstly to check your blade is square to the table at the 0
degree setting,
you first place the Tilt Box on the table surface next to or close to
the blade. Hit the "Zero" button and the Tilt Box zeroes itself,
essentially assigning
the table a zero degree value. Now you attach the Tilt Box to the blade
(raised up on course) using the magnets on the side of the Tilt Box.
Ensure the
box is sitting on the body of the blade and not resting on any teeth
etc. The value on the LCD display will settle after a second or two to
provide an
accurate reading of the blades angle. If it also reads zero degrees,
then the blade is square to the table. The bevel indicator scale on most
table saws
are not terribly accurate. I mean, they will get you to close to being
square at the zero setting, but I found my blade was still off about
0.20 of a degree.
May not seem like much, but if you are cutting bevels for an 8 or 12
sided form, those small inaccuracies add up quick around the entire
diameter. And
besides, if you have invested money in decent machines to undertake more
precise cuts with better accuracy and finish, why should you settle for
anything
less than perfect?

Ok, so I discovered my saw blade is not always returning to dead square
according to the Tilt Box (even though my bevel scale says it is) so I
made a few
adjustments to the stop mechanism to remedy this for future cuts. Of
course, double checking with the Tilt Box will verify the angle too, and
it only takes
a second to do. Now, say you want to set the blade at an odd angle, or
even a perfect 22.5 degree common angle. You simply follow the same
steps as above
and attach the Tilt Box to the blade body. Now start winding your bevel
adjustment wheel and watch as the Tilt Box numbers change with 0.05
accuracy as
the bevel angle grows. When it hits 22.5 degree, stop, lock the bevel
angle setting and you have an instant, and highly accurate 22.5 degree
blade setup
ready to cut. While using the Tilt Box, you do come to realize just how
fine a tap or nudge of the adjustment wheel can affect the blade angle,
and your
setting accuracy. It certainly makes you think twice before trusting
your angle scale on your saw again, that's for sure! So in this method
you can set
your blade angle anywhere within its range relative tot he table using
the Tilt Box.

The same principle is used for most machine setups too. First you set
the Box on the reference surface the material will be sitting or moving
along, zero
the Tilt Box, then measure your cutting blade or other surface. On the
Miter saw, you can set the blade square to the table with high accuracy,
or set
any bevel required with remarkable ease.

On the bandsaw, you can set the table square to the blade or, again, set
the table to whatever bevel angle required. It can be a little trickier
on the
bandsaw as you have to attach the tilt box to the blade, and with small
blades this can be tricky, or it just wont work at all. But considering
blade flex
of band saw blades when cutting, you only really get an estimate anyway.
It's not going to be as perfect a cut as with a more rigid circular saw
blade
of course.

An excellent example of machine setup comes when you use the Tilt Box to
set up or fine tune a jointer. I always believed my jointer fences were
dead square.
Apparently not! They were 0.15 degrees from square. I thought perhaps
the Tilt Box may not be as accurate as my trusty square here, but I have
another
digital angle gauge (to be reviewed on OTR shortly) which gave me the
same result. I hadn't noticed this inaccuracy before on jointed pieces,
and to be
honest, woodwork is a little forgiving when it comes to angles in some
cases. But again, why not have them set up perfectly? It can only result
in more
accurate work. A few adjustments and now my jointer fences are perfectly
square when I set them back to the 90 degree, or "0" setting. The tool
can also
be used on many other woodworking or machines where you need to set
something square, or at an angle to another surface.

Measuring Absolute Angle
It may not be the correct term you might use, but absolute angle in
reference to the Tilt Box is what I call the angle of something in
relation to the real
world. Something like checking angle with a spirit level. The Beall Tilt
Box can perform this function too. Just turn on the Tilt Box using the
ON/OFF
button and set it on a surface. It will provide an absolute angle
measurement in relation to the Earth. This can be handy for quick, rough
angle measuring,
but it is not as accurate measuring over longer spans than a regular
longer spirit level because the box itself only has a very short
footprint lengthwise.
Another press of the Zero button then sets the Box to relative mode for
setting machinery. If you want to get it back to absolute mode, you
press the Zero
button again, and the cycle continues between the two modes.

Calibration
The Tilt Box is factory calibrated, so in most cases, it will be ready
to go straight from the box. In some case that it requires
re-calibration (say if
it is knocked around a bit too much, survives a nasty fall etc) then
re-calibration can be done quickly and easily. Instructions are provided
for this
to be undertaken, and it simply involves sitting the box on several of
its sides in conjunction with a couple of button presses.

In Use
The Tilt Box is very user friendly and is easy to operate. In fact,
there is virtually no learning curve at all. The buttons are relatively
easy to press/engage
and the rare earth magnets work very well indeed. Because the unit is
very sensitive to angle changes, and has that fine 0.05 degree
resolution, it can
be tricky at times to correctly zero the gauge on flat surfaces, because
the pressure exerted on the box as your hold it to press the "Zero"
button can
tend to tilt it so slightly that when you let it go, you end up with a
0.05 or 0.10 degree result, instead of a true zero. This is no real
fault of the
Tilt Box itself, and when used on hard and firm surfaces like a cast
iron table saw bench or jointer bed, it is no problem at all. But you
naturally learn
the best way to stabilize the box as you zero it over time, and from
there on out, operating it is terribly simple... in a good sense!

I have achieved good angle cutting results using the Tilt Box to set up
for bevel cutting angles, and all my cutting machines are tuned for
square like
they never were before.

These devices are just so handy, and quite cheap considering the
accuracy they deliver and their ability to quickly and accurately set
your gear up for
the right results.

The Beall Tilt Box is a definite must-have item in any woodworkers
workshop in my opinion. Once you have one you will no doubt, like me,
swear by it.




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