All this plumbing talk and tips reminds me of one. I was attempting to solder a valve into a horizontal line under a house. There seemed to be just enough seepage past the water meter shut off the water dripped and therefore no solder would stick. Note this is before I found out compression valves came in the larger size. Anyway a old plumber told me to stuff bread up the offending pipe until the pipe stayed dry then solder. When pressure and more water was turned on the bread disolved and washed out. Now the fancy plumbbers have liquid nitrogen or such to freeze a block, but the bread on that line saved my bacon. Ron ----- Original Message ----- From: David Ferrin To: [email protected] Sent: Wednesday, September 26, 2007 6:38 AM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Plumber's Tool Kit
Sure why didn't you send this yesterday before I went to the hardware store and forgot to pick up a basin wrench when I bought a new bathroom faucet. I guess I figured that the model I was changing went on with thumb screws so it should be no problem to change, oh so very wrong. The threads under there are so corroded that the one nut absolutely refuses to come off. This man is going to own a basin wrench this time around for sure. I don't care if it doesn't get used again for years it's just a tool that belongs in my box. I've had it with open end wrenches under there where there is no room to work at all. David Ferrin [EMAIL PROTECTED] ----- Original Message ----- From: Boyce, Ray To: [email protected] Sent: Tuesday, September 25, 2007 11:33 PM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Plumber's Tool Kit PLUMBER'S KIT SPECIALTY TOOLS Most specialty tools make difficult jobs dramatically easier and are worth investing in as your plumbing skills increase. For example, a cast-iron pipe wrench makes removing and tightening large-diameter nuts much easier. For even larger nuts, such as those that hold a drainpipe to the bottom of a kitchen sink, a spud wrench will make the job a breeze. A simple handle puller can come in handy for removing corroded faucet handles. Similarly, a basin wrench makes it easy to reach those awkward nuts holding a faucet down to the countertop and will likely save some of the skin on your knuckles as well. WHAT'S IN YOUR KIT Drain Auger Soldering Flame Shield Propane Torch MIDDLE POCKETS Flashlight, Pipe Cutter Locking Pliers Tongue-and-Groove Pliers Spud Wrench Pipe Wrench Basin Wrench Safety Glasses Torpedo Level BOTTOM POCKETS Joint Compound Paste Brush Tape Measure Copper Fittings Pipe De-Burring Tool Emergency Repair Tape Pocket Tool Carrier ON THE FLOOR ABS Pipe Copper Pipe Emery Cloth Flux Solder Wire Teflon Tape ABS Cement Pipe Dope Hacksaw ABS Pipe Fitting Tools Required: Propane torch, flame shield, pipe cutter, tape measure, extra lengths of copper pipe and fittings, including elbows, unions and caps. You'll also need solder paste and brush, solder wire, emery cloth and safety glasses. Technique: Turn off the water supply and open any nearby valves or faucets. Remove burrs from the inside and outside edges of the pipe using emery cloth or a de-burring tool. Use emery cloth to clean the outside and inside of the two pipes being joined. If the copper isn't clean, the solder might not bond properly and the joint may leak. Brush acid-free flux on both the outside of the male fitting and the inside of the female fitting. The flux cleans the copper and helps prevent oxidation as the pipe heats up. If the pipe becomes oxidized, it might leak. Dry-fit the two pieces of pipe together, then unroll and straighten about four inches of solder wire, using the roll or container as a handle when applying the solder. Heat the joint using a propane torch, moving the flame around to ensure that the whole pipe is heated. You'll know the joint is hot enough when the flux begins to bubble. Now touch the tip of the solder to the joint. The solder should melt immediately and disappear into the joint. Remove the heat. Move the remaining solder wire around the entire joint to fill it in all the way around. If the pipe cools before the whole joint has been soldered, reheat it gently as required. If you're working close to potentially flammable material, use a flame shield to protect the surrounding surfaces from catching fire, and always keep a fire extinguisher nearby. PLASTIC PIPE REPAIR Tools Required: Hacksaw, white grease marker, ABS cement, torpedo level, extra lengths of ABS pipe and various fittings, including elbows and P-trap. Technique: ABS pipe is easy to work with and repair. ABS cement is applied to the areas to be joined, and after the pieces are brought together, the surfaces of the plastic elements melt and fuse together. Although this process is not difficult, it must be done correctly to prevent leaks. Measure and then mark the pipe with a white grease pencil, which will show up easily on the surface of the black pipe. Cut the pipe to length with a hacksaw, paying careful attention to cut the pipe square; if not, the pipe will not fully seat in the fitting and is likely to leak. Smooth and bevel the edges slightly with a knife or fine file. If the pipe needs to drain, check its position with a level for the required slope. Dry-fit the pipe into the correct position and make alignment reference marks on the pipe so you can easily put it back into position once it's disassembled. Brush the outside of the pipe and the inside of the fitting with cement. Immediately push the pipe into the fitting, twisting it into proper position using the alignment marks. The cement sets in about 30 seconds; once the joint is set, it's stuck together for good and must be cut apart to separate. ********************************************************************** This message and its attachments may contain legally privileged or confidential information. If you are not the intended recipient, you must not disclose or use the information contained in it. If you have received this e-mail in error, please notify the sender immediately by return e-mail and delete the e-mail. 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