you are absolutely right. I'm gonna forget that. Too much to it for small conenience. Thanks for the overview it kept mysearching brief.
On Thu, 27 Sep 2007, Ron Yearns wrote: > You are probably going to forget it. The single control has a large round > benzil that goes around the control and there might be a chance it is large > enough to covver the space between the two controls you now have. The thing > to do is measure between the two holes. Outside to soutside. You will need > to cut a somewhat large center hole. Cermanic tile , huh. Think about that. > Anyway with the measurement in hand check it against the new control benzil > or Echusion plate as some call them. > luck to you. > Ron > ----- Original Message ----- > From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > To: [email protected] > Sent: Thursday, September 27, 2007 1:22 PM > Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Plumber's Tool Kit > > > this made me wonder. > Here I go looking for trouble. > How much is involved in turning a 2 handle shower set-up, into a single or > Delta type? > If it means changing the spacing, forget it, as this is a tiled wall. > Anyone know? > > On Thu, 27 Sep 2007, David Ferrin wrote: > > > Yes it's always been my experience that knowing the brand is very > important. Actually when ever you go to a hardware store they will ask you > for what brand of faucet. The good thing is for example with the Delta line > of plumbing fixtures all of the parts are interchangeable. In fact I believe > that all manufacturers follow such a practice. That way they only need to > produce a single line of seats and springs which may be installed in anything > they happen to offer. Also thanks for the positive feed back on my audio > tutorial up on the page. One thing though my previous shower faucet took the > standard version of springs not the shower version. I have no idea why that > was but there you go. I only point that out so you know not to throw away > anything from the old assembly until you're sure you no longer need it. > Always glad to get feedback on the files page because just editing all of > that information takes a lot of time. I can't imagine how much work it must > be to find it al! l. > > David Ferrin > > [EMAIL PROTECTED] > > ----- Original Message ----- > > From: William Stephan > > To: [email protected] > > Sent: Thursday, September 27, 2007 11:56 AM > > Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Plumber's Tool Kit > > > > > > David, congratulations. > > > > Also you did a really nice job with the faucet repair tutorial up on the > site, it was very helpful. A question though... > > Is it truly necessary to know the brand of a faucet in order to buy > springs and seats? I've got one that needs replacing, and it's hard to get a > sighted person to look at this stuff. > > > > Bill Stephan > > Kansas City, MO > > (816)803-2469 > > William Stephan > > > > -----Original Message----- > > .From: "David Ferrin"<[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > > .Sent: 9/26/07 8:11:30 PM > > .To: "[email protected]"<[email protected]> > > .Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Plumber's Tool Kit > > . > > .Just once I'd like to see a plumbing job go as easy as they do on TV. > Never the less I am happy to report the new faucet is installed and no leaks > at this time. Also I changed a ballast in my kitchen last night. So we once > again have light when we eat. > > .David Ferrin > > [EMAIL PROTECTED] > > .----- Original Message ----- > > .From: Boyce, Ray > > .To: [email protected] > > .Sent: Wednesday, September 26, 2007 6:33 PM > > .Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Plumber's Tool Kit > > . > > . > > .Hi Dave > > . > > .We have to keep you busy doing all them Handy Man Repairs around your > > .home, using some of the knowledge this group promotes. > > .Good to see you getting into it. > > . > > .Regards > > .Ray > > . > > .________________________________ > > . > > .From: [email protected] > > .[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of David Ferrin > > .Sent: Wednesday, 26 September 2007 21:39 > > .To: [email protected] > > .Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Plumber's Tool Kit > > . > > .Sure why didn't you send this yesterday before I went to the hardware > > .store and forgot to pick up a basin wrench when I bought a new bathroom > > .faucet. I guess I figured that the model I was changing went on with > > .thumb screws so it should be no problem to change, oh so very wrong. The > > .threads under there are so corroded that the one nut absolutely refuses > > .to come off. This man is going to own a basin wrench this time around > > .for sure. I don't care if it doesn't get used again for years it's just > > .a tool that belongs in my box. I've had it with open end wrenches under > > .there where there is no room to work at all. > > .David Ferrin > > [EMAIL PROTECTED] <mailto:dpf%40jaws-users.com> > > .----- Original Message ----- > > .From: Boyce, Ray > > .To: [email protected] > > .<mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com> > > .Sent: Tuesday, September 25, 2007 11:33 PM > > .Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Plumber's Tool Kit > > . > > .PLUMBER'S KIT > > . > > .SPECIALTY TOOLS > > .Most specialty tools make difficult jobs dramatically easier and are > > .worth investing in as your plumbing skills increase. For example, a > > .cast-iron pipe > > .wrench makes removing and tightening large-diameter nuts much easier. > > .For even larger nuts, such as those that hold a drainpipe to the bottom > > .of a kitchen > > .sink, a spud wrench will make the job a breeze. A simple handle puller > > .can come in handy for removing corroded faucet handles. Similarly, a > > .basin wrench > > .makes it easy to reach those awkward nuts holding a faucet down to the > > .countertop and will likely save some of the skin on your knuckles as > > .well. > > . > > .WHAT'S IN YOUR KIT > > . > > .Drain Auger > > .Soldering Flame Shield > > .Propane Torch > > . > > .MIDDLE POCKETS > > .Flashlight, Pipe Cutter > > .Locking Pliers > > .Tongue-and-Groove Pliers > > .Spud Wrench > > .Pipe Wrench > > .Basin Wrench > > .Safety Glasses > > .Torpedo Level > > . > > .BOTTOM POCKETS > > .Joint Compound > > .Paste Brush > > .Tape Measure > > .Copper Fittings > > .Pipe De-Burring Tool > > .Emergency Repair Tape > > .Pocket Tool Carrier > > . > > .ON THE FLOOR > > .ABS Pipe > > .Copper Pipe > > .Emery Cloth > > .Flux > > .Solder Wire > > .Teflon Tape > > .ABS Cement > > .Pipe Dope > > .Hacksaw > > .ABS Pipe Fitting > > .Tools Required: Propane torch, flame shield, pipe cutter, tape measure, > > .extra lengths of copper pipe and fittings, including elbows, unions and > > .caps. You'll > > .also need solder paste and brush, solder wire, emery cloth and safety > > .glasses. > > . > > .Technique: Turn off the water supply and open any nearby valves or > > .faucets. Remove burrs from the inside and outside edges of the pipe > > .using emery cloth > > .or a de-burring tool. Use emery cloth to clean the outside and inside of > > .the two pipes being joined. If the copper isn't clean, the solder might > > .not bond > > .properly and the joint may leak. Brush acid-free flux on both the > > .outside of the male fitting and the inside of the female fitting. The > > .flux cleans the > > .copper and helps prevent oxidation as the pipe heats up. If the pipe > > .becomes oxidized, it might leak. > > . > > .Dry-fit the two pieces of pipe together, then unroll and straighten > > .about four inches of solder wire, using the roll or container as a > > .handle when applying > > .the solder. > > . > > .Heat the joint using a propane torch, moving the flame around to ensure > > .that the whole pipe is heated. You'll know the joint is hot enough when > > .the flux > > .begins to bubble. Now touch the tip of the solder to the joint. The > > .solder should melt immediately and disappear into the joint. Remove the > > .heat. Move > > .the remaining solder wire around the entire joint to fill it in all the > > .way around. If the pipe cools before the whole joint has been soldered, > > .reheat > > .it gently as required. > > . > > .If you're working close to potentially flammable material, use a flame > > .shield to protect the surrounding surfaces from catching fire, and > > .always keep a > > .fire extinguisher nearby. > > .PLASTIC PIPE REPAIR > > .Tools Required: Hacksaw, white grease marker, ABS cement, torpedo level, > > .extra lengths of ABS pipe and various fittings, including elbows and > > .P-trap. > > . > > .Technique: ABS pipe is easy to work with and repair. ABS cement is > > .applied to the areas to be joined, and after the pieces are brought > > .together, the surfaces > > .of the plastic elements melt and fuse together. Although this process is > > .not difficult, it must be done correctly to prevent leaks. Measure and > > .then mark > > .the pipe with a white grease pencil, which will show up easily on the > > .surface of the black pipe. Cut the pipe to length with a hacksaw, paying > > .careful > > .attention to cut the pipe square; if not, the pipe will not fully seat > > .in the fitting and is likely to leak. Smooth and bevel the edges > > .slightly with a > > .knife or fine file. If the pipe needs to drain, check its position with > > .a level for the required slope. > > . > > .Dry-fit the pipe into the correct position and make alignment reference > > .marks on the pipe so you can easily put it back into position once it's > > .disassembled. > > .Brush the outside of the pipe and the inside of the fitting with cement. > > .Immediately push the pipe into the fitting, twisting it into proper > > .position using > > .the alignment marks. The cement sets in about 30 seconds; once the joint > > .is set, it's stuck together for good and must be cut apart to separate. > > . > > .********************************************************************** > > .This message and its attachments may contain legally > > .privileged or confidential information. If you are not the > > .intended recipient, you must not disclose or use the > > .information contained in it. If you have received this e-mail > > .in error, please notify the sender immediately by return > > .e-mail and delete the e-mail. > > . > > .Any content of this message and its attachments which > > .does not relate to the official business of Eraring Energy > > .must be taken not to have been sent or endorsed by > > .Eraring Energy. No warranty is made that the e-mail or > > .attachment(s) are free from computer virus or other defect. > > .********************************************************************** > > . > > .[Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > . > > .[Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > . > > .[Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > . > > . > > . > > . > > . > > .[Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > . > > . > > > > > > > > > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > > > > > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > >
