Darn.  Why didn't I think of that?

Regards.

Max.  K 4 O D S.

Email: [EMAIL PROTECTED]

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----- Original Message ----- 
From: "robert moore" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Wednesday, October 03, 2007 1:19 PM
Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Teddybear cottage, the floor.


> Max you need to lift the building up a few inches and suspend it so that 
> the
> floor is sitting there all by itself and when you are done putting down 
> the
> flooring then lower the building back down onto the floor and you are good
> to go.
> Grin
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: [email protected] 
> [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Behalf Of Max Robinson
> Sent: Tuesday, October 02, 2007 7:30 PM
> To: Blind Handyman
> Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Teddybear cottage, the floor.
>
> Next, the floor. The floor provided by the builders was most
> unsatisfactory. First of all, some of the pieces of plywood were thicker
> than others. There were large headed nails driven in at an angle. The ones
> that were straight kept popping up. No matter how many times we pounded
> them down they kept rearing their ugly heads again.
>
> On the advice of the people in the flooring department at Lowe's,
>
> we put sheets of 3/4 inch MDF over the old flooring making sure not to use
> the same layout so seems would not coincide. It was fastened down with
> liquid nails and woodscrews in the corners. It came out nice and flat.
>
> Next, we put down laminated floor tiles with padding on the back.
>
> The tiles are approximately 4 feet by 1 foot and have edges something like 
> a
> tung and groove with a catch on the tung that catches in the groove and
> holds them together once locked in place. These are on all four sides. The
> instructions say to alternate the short seams which gives a stair-step
> appearance.
>
> The first row was just laid down and locked together end to end working
> right to left. To start the second row the first tile had to be cut in
> half. These went down and the third row started with another whole tile.
>
> It wasn't quite as easy as the salesman said it would be. The long edges
> were fairly easy, just lift up the edge of the tile, lock it to the
> previously laid one and lay it down. It would lock in place. That was OK
> for the long edge but the second in a row, and all subsequent ones to the
> left, required that the newly added tile had to be slid to the right 
> without
> being lifted up to engage the short seam. One of the half pieces was
> pressed into service for this. It was placed against the short seam which
> matched so considerable force could be put on it without damaging the 
> wanted
> tile. The cut end could be pounded on with a hammer to force the good tile
> to move and engage the next one down. Then the "tool" could be removed
> leaving an undamaged edge for the next one in line. This piece of tile was
> a scrap that was of no further use.
>
> When the wall on the left was reached a tile had to be cut to fill the
> remaining space. The "tool" could not be used here because all the space
> had been filled. The tiles had to be cut short enough to allow something 
> to
> be wedged in between the end of the tile and the wall to force it to the
> right. We started by prying with a large file but that wouldn't go far
> enough. Next we inserted the claws of a claw-hammer into the crack and
> pried against the wall. This resulted in some damaged paneling and also
> broken edges of the tiles. Most of the damage was covered by the base 
> board
> and quarter round but there are still a couple of broken places showing 
> both
> in the paneling and the floor tiles. Some well placed furniture will cover
> these mistakes.
>
> It seems impossible to make the last one in line lock in place without 
> doing
> some damage to the wall and tiles. I wonder how the hell the pros do it.
>
> Regards.
>
> Max. K 4 O D S.
>
> Email: [EMAIL PROTECTED] <mailto:max%40maxsmusicplace.com>
>
> Transistor site http://www.funwithtransistors.net
> <http://www.funwithtransistors.net>
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>
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