I have a punch like object that holds a drill bit. Where the cutting end of the bit protrudes, the object is tapered. Just center in the hinge and drill.
earlier, Jewel Blanch, wrote: >That's great info, thanks Dale! I will ask my local hardware cum >tool shop if they have those spring-loaded centre punches. > >Jewel > >----- Original Message ----- >From: Dale Leavens >To: <mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com>[email protected] >Sent: Monday, October 29, 2007 11:57 AM >Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] How to Install a Hinge | DoItYourself.com > >Hi Jewel, > >I like to use spring loaded centre punches to mark screw holes. >These have a cone shaped nose which centers the punch in the hole >and as you press down a little spring trips to add a punch to a >pointed end. I often repeat a couple of times. If necessary I then >tap a small nail into the tiny mark left by the punch so the >location is easily found later. I also have one which you tap with a >hammer to really make a good deep mark but the nose is a little wide >for many applications. > >A couple of months ago I also bought a set of centre marking punches >which are pistons about 5 inches long I suppose with a point right >in the middle of an otherwise flat end. These come in a variety of >sizes and you select the size you need for the hole you want a >centre point for and pass it through then tap it to make a mark. >These are ideal for things like marking the location for mounting >things on walls where you need to get all four holes precisely >marked and cut. The last time I used that sort was in mounting >little magnets in the rim of the cut-out of my router table top to >level the router mount. The plate is about 3/8 thick and I didn't >want to risk damaging the threads which run the leveling screws, >those punches were ideal for that. The little pointy mark received >the tip of a forstner bit so the holes and the magnets ended up >absolutely precisely located. > >Most other marking methods I don't find to be so satisfactory, >things like using a marking gauge to form a line to plane down to >for example but for marking around a hinge I either use a very sharp >utility knife or more often the flat side of a good sharp chisel >just along the edge of the hardware and tap it if necessary with a >hammer. This line is what I then will use to start the chisel as I >make the cuts to mortise out for the hinge or hasp or what ever >else. Often I will use both a knife and a chisel. Marks across the >grain are generally more easily felt than those along the grain >which, as a result usually have to be deeper. > >When marking with a chisel you don't want to go too deep because the >bevel side will widen the mark and because it is possible to split the work. > >There have been some here on the list who say they can follow a >scribe mark with a jig or other saw or fret saw. I certainly cannot. >Neither can I accurately cut off a length to a scribed mark with my >table saw or mitre saw or even very well with a hand saw. > >Hope this is helpful. > >Dale Leavens, Cochrane Ontario Canada ><mailto:DLeavens%40puc.net>[EMAIL PROTECTED] >Skype DaleLeavens >Come and meet Aurora, Nakita and Nanook at our polar bear habitat. > >----- Original Message ----- >From: Jewel Blanch >To: <mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com>[email protected] >Sent: Sunday, October 28, 2007 5:22 PM >Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] How to Install a Hinge | DoItYourself.com > >How does a totally blind handyman make a usable * mark? > >Jewel > >----- Original Message ----- >From: David W Wood >To: <mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com>[email protected] >Sent: Sunday, October 28, 2007 11:55 PM >Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] How to Install a Hinge | DoItYourself.com > >Hi all: >An interesting thread. > >The way which I use to mark hinges in a true fashion (if >they are the butt type) is to open them out fully with the >round spindle away from the work surface, open the hinge to >more than 180 degrees, and carefully use this angle on the >edge of the door to true it with the frame, and then mark >round the leaf. >Providing that the holes are symmetrical, you can, at this >point mark and drill the holes also. > >David > >---------------------------------------------------------- > >No virus found in this incoming message. >Checked by AVG Free Edition. >Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.15.12/1096 - Release Date: >27/10/07 11:02 a.m. > >[Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > >[Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > >---------------------------------------------------------- > >No virus found in this incoming message. >Checked by AVG Free Edition. >Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.15.12/1096 - Release Date: >27/10/07 11:02 a.m. > >[Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > > >No virus found in this incoming message. >Checked by AVG Free Edition. >Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.15.12/1096 - Release Date: >10/27/2007 11:02 AM John ---------- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.15.12/1096 - Release Date: 10/27/2007 11:02 AM [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
