Dale's question was about cutting a board that is bigger than the 
table.  I suppose one could clamp a board under the board to be cut, 
sliding the clamped board along the table.

earlier, Bob Kennedy, wrote:

>A few years back I went to the Woodworking Show in Charlotte, NC. 
>One of the brothers that own one of the many companies at the show 
>was there demonstrating his system for safety and accuracy. The 
>system is called the Grip-Tite system. Basically it is a long piece 
>of steel about 4 inches tall and bent at 90 degrees at the top. The 
>bend is only to add strength to the steel, it isn't important otherwise.
>
>The steel plate has holes counter sunk into it along the length and 
>you screw it to a piece of wood which becomes the back. The wood is 
>then held against the original fence of the table saw. So if the 
>picture isn't clear mentally at this point, you have a 4 inch tall 
>fence now attached to your original fence.
>
>The part that makes this special is the clamps that hold the wood 
>down. They are awesome magnets inside of a lexan housing and they 
>stick extremely well to this fence face. On the side of the magnet 
>housing is a wheel that rolls as the wood passes under it. This 
>keeps the wood pressed firmly against the surface of the saw bed and 
>won't let a board raise up off the blade as the leverage increases 
>at the outfeed side.
>
>There are 2 magnets, one for the front and one at the back of the 
>fence. Since I bought mine, they have come out with some new 
>accessories that I haven't checked into yet but since I just got a 
>new table saw myself, I will need to figure out a better way to fit 
>this. I have the Biesemeyer fence on the saw and can't attach the 
>old system to the new fence. They do however, make clamps to fit the 
>bigger fences.
>
>If you ever get near a Woodcraft store or something similar, be sure 
>to have them show you how this works. I am a hard head when it comes 
>to blade guards and leave mine off all the time. As dirty Harry 
>said, "A man's got to know his limitations." And I do. So I know how 
>far I need to keep my hands from the blade and don't challenge the 
>blade in any way. What is so neat about these magnets is once they 
>are in place on the fence face, there is a handle on the housing 
>that will also serve as a blade guard. If you are having a brain 
>cramp while feeding wood through the blade, your hand will run into 
>the magnet first. Believe me, it is big enough you won't just pass 
>over it and hit the blade unless you intend to. I don't have 1 
>handy, but estimating I would say the magnet housing is about 3 
>inches wide and about 6 inches end to end. The handle fits my hand 
>and comes off the top which is probably an inch and a half thick. So 
>at the end of the handle it is roughly 5 or 6 inches tall. Tallisn't 
>the right word since the bottom sticks to the fence and that makes 
>the handle point to the side at that point... I have never had a 
>kick back when I used the magnets on a cut. Once you stick one to 
>the fence, you are in for a surprise getting it loose. They have a 
>lever on the tail that works a cam to help break some of the 
>magnetic force. They will snap to the fence from about an inch away 
>so you learn quickly where not to have your fingers.
>
>Obviously I was impressed with the whole Grip-Tite system. But I 
>think what sold me completely was the guy selling it. He puts on a 
>show so you can see how well it works. At the show I watched the guy 
>push a 2 by 4 through the blade and after it was about half way 
>along the cut, he gave the wood a push sideways and the blade was 
>binding and screaming. The board never kicked back at him. It was a 
>demonstration of course he knows better than to cut like that. After 
>everyone was through talking to him I introduced myself and asked if 
>he would show it to me. He let me run my hands all over the saw and 
>then he asked if I wanted to make a cut. I'd have bought the tool at 
>that time just because of his attitude. What he wanted me to know 
>was that I couldn't get my hands near the blade unless I wanted to. 
>He said once you run into the handle of the magnet, you know the 
>blade is about 4 inches beyond and that is your stopping point. He 
>knew I was a total and it didn't scare him at all for me to use the 
>saw And you know how the courts would nail him if I would have 
>gotten hurt. You can Google
>Grip-Tite and read some of the reviews on it. They sell for around 
>$129 US, and they are worth every penny.
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: Dale Alton
>To: <mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com>[email protected]
>Sent: Saturday, December 15, 2007 11:29 PM
>Subject: [BlindHandyMan] tips, tricks, and knowledge
>
>Well I did it. I bought both. I am still hesitant with the table saw 
>but am excited to use it. I want to be as careful as possible and 
>want the subject on using a table saw. I am primarily concerned with 
>a piece larger than the table. How is a person suppose to run say a 
>8 foot piece of 1" x ^' through the table by himself? I like my 10 digits.
>Thanx,
>Dale
>
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>
>
>
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>12/15/2007 12:00 PM

John

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