Installing a Drop Leaf Table Hinge

Drop leaf table hinge in the dropped position

Drop leaf table hinge in the raised position

Drop Leaf Rule Joint

While at first glance the rule joint seems simple, the realities of this joint 
can be frustratingly troublesome. A first attempt will often result in a
joint that scrapes and binds or leaves unsightly gaps. To get it right the 
first time requires both an understanding and application of the geometry at
work.

These days the majority of us will cut the rule joint profiles with a router. 
Though this tool can quickly produce a very accurate pair of matching cuts,
it can just as easily cut a good looking but unworkable joint.

Because different hinges will require different settings for your router, hinge 
selection must be your starting point. A rule joint hinge is specially 
manufactured
with an extra wide leaf to span the joint. Because it is screwed into the 
underside of the table with the barrel facing up it is countersunk on the 
reverse
side.

Start by opening the hinge and laying it barrel upward on a flat surface. 
Accurately measure up from this surface to the center of the hinge pin. In the
case of our standard drop leaf hinges this measurement will be 1/8" 
(Alternatively, and assuming the hinge is a traditional flat back style you can 
simply
measure the hinge barrel and divide by two). When this hinge is mortised into 
the underside of the tabletop the center of rotation of the table leaf will
be 1/8" up from the bottom.

Most tabletops are built of 3/4" thick material and so it seems reasonable to 
select a 1/2" radius cutter for the joint. Many woodworkers cutting a rule
joint for the first time will fail to take into account the center of rotation 
described above and will assume a 1/2" radius cutter will leave a 1/4" fillet
in 3/4" stock. If a 1/2" radius cutter is set correctly, with the center of its 
described circle raised 1/8" above the underside of the table, the fillet
will actually be only 1/8" not 1/4". An 1/8" fillet is a workable minimum 
because, while the fillet is cut into the tabletop, the table leaf must match
its profile with perhaps 1/32" clearance. With a full 3/4" material thickness, 
that will leave an edge of 3/32" which should be regarded as the absolute
minimum. If the tabletop is thinner due to planing or sanding, then a 1/2" 
radius cutter will be too large and must be abandoned in favor of a 7/16" or
smaller pair of bits.

After having established the center of rotation as defined by the hinge choice 
and having selected the cutter, you can run the profile on the table top.
If you are using a 1/2" radius cutter you will need to set the base of your 
router to cut a fillet of a thickness that is the result of the following 
formula:

Tabletop thickness (3/4") minus 1/2 hinge barrel diameter (1/8") minus cutter 
radius (1/2")

With this profile cut you can run the mating profile in the table leaf. Ideally 
you would select a cutter with a 1/32" larger radius to provide a little
clearance at the joint. Such cutters are not generally available, so in order 
to create the needed clearance, you will separate the leaves by this much
when installing the hinges.

The hinges can now be mortised. The first cut will be in the table top and will 
accommodate the hinge barrel. This is best cut with a ΒΌ" straight cutter.
The center of this cut should be a 1/64" outboard of a line drawn down from the 
vertical cut left by your radius cutter. With the table top upside down
and with its leaf nesting in place but separated by 1/32", lay the hinge barrel 
in it's mortise and with a sharp knife scribe its outline. Finally route
a mortise to set the hinge flush with the table underside and screw into place. 
Make sure the table leaf remains firmly in place during this operation.

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