Because the pieces of wood that slide out to support the leaf wouldn't e
able to slide past the hinge.
Also, a piano hinge won't support weight as well since the screws would be
in the same direction of the force of anything on the table. The screws
would eventually pull loose.

----- Original Message -----
From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Friday, December 21, 2007 4:47 AM
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Installing a Drop Leaf Table Hinge


I can't see why going through all this trouble.
Why not use a piano hinge from underneath and install it while the boards
are snugged up tight on horizontal?

On Fri, 21 Dec 2007, Boyce, Ray wrote:

> Installing a Drop Leaf Table Hinge
>
> Drop leaf table hinge in the dropped position
>
> Drop leaf table hinge in the raised position
>
> Drop Leaf Rule Joint
>
> While at first glance the rule joint seems simple, the realities of this
joint can be frustratingly troublesome. A first attempt will often result in
a
> joint that scrapes and binds or leaves unsightly gaps. To get it right the
first time requires both an understanding and application of the geometry at
> work.
>
> These days the majority of us will cut the rule joint profiles with a
router. Though this tool can quickly produce a very accurate pair of
matching cuts,
> it can just as easily cut a good looking but unworkable joint.
>
> Because different hinges will require different settings for your router,
hinge selection must be your starting point. A rule joint hinge is specially
manufactured
> with an extra wide leaf to span the joint. Because it is screwed into the
underside of the table with the barrel facing up it is countersunk on the
reverse
> side.
>
> Start by opening the hinge and laying it barrel upward on a flat surface.
Accurately measure up from this surface to the center of the hinge pin. In
the
> case of our standard drop leaf hinges this measurement will be 1/8"
(Alternatively, and assuming the hinge is a traditional flat back style you
can simply
> measure the hinge barrel and divide by two). When this hinge is mortised
into the underside of the tabletop the center of rotation of the table leaf
will
> be 1/8" up from the bottom.
>
> Most tabletops are built of 3/4" thick material and so it seems reasonable
to select a 1/2" radius cutter for the joint. Many woodworkers cutting a
rule
> joint for the first time will fail to take into account the center of
rotation described above and will assume a 1/2" radius cutter will leave a
1/4" fillet
> in 3/4" stock. If a 1/2" radius cutter is set correctly, with the center
of its described circle raised 1/8" above the underside of the table, the
fillet
> will actually be only 1/8" not 1/4". An 1/8" fillet is a workable minimum
because, while the fillet is cut into the tabletop, the table leaf must
match
> its profile with perhaps 1/32" clearance. With a full 3/4" material
thickness, that will leave an edge of 3/32" which should be regarded as the
absolute
> minimum. If the tabletop is thinner due to planing or sanding, then a 1/2"
radius cutter will be too large and must be abandoned in favor of a 7/16" or
> smaller pair of bits.
>
> After having established the center of rotation as defined by the hinge
choice and having selected the cutter, you can run the profile on the table
top.
> If you are using a 1/2" radius cutter you will need to set the base of
your router to cut a fillet of a thickness that is the result of the
following formula:
>
> Tabletop thickness (3/4") minus 1/2 hinge barrel diameter (1/8") minus
cutter radius (1/2")
>
> With this profile cut you can run the mating profile in the table leaf.
Ideally you would select a cutter with a 1/32" larger radius to provide a
little
> clearance at the joint. Such cutters are not generally available, so in
order to create the needed clearance, you will separate the leaves by this
much
> when installing the hinges.
>
> The hinges can now be mortised. The first cut will be in the table top and
will accommodate the hinge barrel. This is best cut with a ΒΌ" straight
cutter.
> The center of this cut should be a 1/64" outboard of a line drawn down
from the vertical cut left by your radius cutter. With the table top upside
down
> and with its leaf nesting in place but separated by 1/32", lay the hinge
barrel in it's mortise and with a sharp knife scribe its outline. Finally
route
> a mortise to set the hinge flush with the table underside and screw into
place. Make sure the table leaf remains firmly in place during this
operation.
>
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>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



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