Installing Butt Hinges

Traditional cabinet butt hinges are mortised into the edge of the door
and cabinetwork. We sell these hinges either with or without decorative
tips. The
installation is the same for either type except in one detail.
Decorative tip hinges are set further forward of the cabinetwork than
are their untipped
equivalents. The plain untipped butt hinge serves a function without
drawing attention to itself. It should therefore be fitted so as to
allow it to do
its work while remaining unnoticed.

The hinge mortise should be cut to a depth that leaves only the radiused
barrel of the hinges and a hair extra forward of the cabinetwork. So
long as the
center of swing is not within the cabinetwork the hinge will function as
intended.

The tipped butt hinge must have the full diameter of its barrel forward
of the cabinetwork. This allows the pin to be removed without
interference.

Regular butt hinge

Tipped butt hinge

For regular butt hinges set a marking gauge to a measurement taken from
the edge of the hinge leaf to a point just short of the center of the
hinge pin.
Use this setting to scribe lines on the casework where you have chosen
to place the hinge. Next measure accurately the hinge length and bring
corresponding
lines forward to the front of the casework with a square. A scalpel or
other sharp knife is the best marking tool for this layout. Set a small
router with
a sharp 1/4" high speed steel straight cutter to a depth that equals the
hinge barrel diameter minus desired door gap divided in half. Waste away
the mortise
and square up the corners with a sharp chisel.

Set the door in place and shim it to create equal gaps. Mark lines on
the door to match those on the casework. Use your marking gauge setting
to mark the
vertical lines. Set the door in a bench vise and route the mortises. The
door can now be fitted. Use only one screw per hinge as this time. If
the door
closes properly then fit the remaining screws.  Small adjustments to the
depth of the mortises can go a long way to compensate for a slightly
twisted door.

The same technique will work for installation of a tipped hinge with the
exception of the marking gauge setting. For a tipped hinge the gauge
will be set
to the inside width of the hinge leaf.

Iron Butt Hinges

One Mortise or Two?

In recent years it has become common to see butt hinges mortised fully
into either the door or the casework. This is a time saving technique
that provides
the installer some latitude for hinge adjustment. An English
manufacturer of traditional kitchen cabinets has invested this dubious
technique with undeserved
respectability. Much of the long term durability of a correctly fitted
door is a direct consequence of the mortises the hinges sits in. These
mortises
prevent the weight of the door from bearing on the woodscrews that hold
the hinges in place. While a woodscrew is easily able resist the forces
that try
to pull it straight out it is not suited to resist significant sideways
loads. The wood fibers around the screw will eventually crush and the
screw will
loosen.

(The following is an exception to my general condemnation of the above
technique.)

Some doors are surrounded by a bead, either on the door itself or on the
surrounding casework. It is difficult to resist the temptation to set
the hinge
into this bead. In this case you are obliged to cut the hinge either
fully into the door or the casework. Some loss of principal is perhaps
worth it in
this case.

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