I'm pretty sure all that stuff about Coke is urban legend. Regards.
Max. K 4 O D S. Email: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Transistor site http://www.funwithtransistors.net Vacuum tube site: http://www.funwithtubes.net Music site: http://www.maxsmusicplace.com To subscribe to the fun with tubes group send an email to, [EMAIL PROTECTED] ----- Original Message ----- From: "Boyce, Ray" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[email protected]> Sent: Sunday, April 20, 2008 4:55 PM Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Cleaning Rust Off, a Cast Iron Table Saw > Hi Cy > Yes use what ever you have handy, has anyone use Coke to clean rust off > cast iron. > How did it work are you happy with the results. > > Ray > > ________________________________ > > From: [email protected] > [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Cy Selfridge > Sent: Monday, 21 April 2008 07:47 > To: [email protected] > Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Cleaning Rust Off, a Cast Iron Table Saw > > > > Ray, > What about Coke syrup? It is supposed to be good for almost anything. > Also I thought CLR was supposed to be good for rust. > Cy, the Ancient oKie... > > _____ > > From: [email protected] > <mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com> > [mailto:[email protected] > <mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com> ] > On Behalf Of Ray Boyce > Sent: Saturday, April 19, 2008 5:42 PM > To: [email protected] > <mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com> > Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Cleaning Rust Off, a Cast Iron Table Saw > > I have a cast-iron table saw that hasn't been used for a few years, and > has > accumulated a pretty substantial amount of rust on the table. How can I > remove the rust and keep it from coming back? > > Well, there are about as many answers to that question as there are > woodworkers who have faced the problem. Cast iron tables are great for > their > weight and durability, but they're quite susceptible to rust, > particularly > in high-humidity climates. > > The first step is assess the situation. If the rust is relatively light > and > superficial, it won't take much to clean up the problem. However, if the > rust has been accumulating for a number of years and appears to be > substantial and deep, the saw's table is probably too damaged to return > it > to its former glory, so to speak. That being said, the saw should still > be > usable - it just may not be as smooth and precise of a surface as when > it > was new. > > First of all, resist the urge to go after your saw table with sandpaper. > Instead, try a Scotchbrite or similar synthetic kitchen scrubbing pad > (not > steel wool) with some mineral oil as lubricant. You want to use a > sufficient > amount of mineral oil, but don't go to excess, as you'll have to wipe > off > the oil when the scrubbing is done. > > I've heard of people using WD-40 instead of mineral oil, which should > work > fine, although it will evaporate more quickly than mineral oil. Should > you > choose to use the WD-40, apply it often and to the entire saw table to > keep > it lubricated until you've finished scrubbing. > > For heavier rust, you may be able to use your random > <HYPERLINK > "http://woodworking.about.com/od/handpowertools/p/OrbitalSander.htm > <http://woodworking.about.com/od/handpowertools/p/OrbitalSander.htm> > "http://w > oodworking.-about.com/-od/handpowertool-s/p/OrbitalSande-r.htm> > orbital sander to help with the scrubbing. Place the base of the sander > on > top of the scrubbing pad and get to work. > > A completely different idea that has some merit for extremely rusted > cast > iron tables is to use naval jelly. You'll need to follow the > instructions on > the naval jelly to the letter, particularly when it comes to removal, so > as > to avoid pitting the cast iron. Naval jelly is quite aggressive for rust > removal, but it needs to be removed properly to stop the cleaning > action. > > Once the rust is removed, you'll want to take steps to ensure that the > rust > won't return. There are a number of commercial products that not only > protect the table from rust, but also lubricate the table to make the > stock > slide better when cutting. T-9 and Slipit are popular choices, typically > available online or at your fine woodworking supplier. > > Paste waxes also work well for protecting and lubricating, but avoid the > temptation to use car paste waxes. These formulations typically contain > silicone, which will plug up wood pores and cause issues with finishing > your > stock. Instead, try some Johnson's Paste Wax (which is typically > formulated > for floors). Apply liberally, wait until it is nearly dry and then wipe > the > table down to remove any excess. > > One final note. It may be an old wives' tale, but one that I tend to > believe: plain old distilled vinegar can act as a rust inhibitor. After > the > majority of the rust is removed using your method of choice above, wipe > down > the entire table with a liberal amount of vinegar. Allow it to dry and > then > apply your final protectant/lubrican-t. The acidity of the vinegar > should > help clean up any last little bit of rust that you may have missed, and > should also impede the future development of more rust. > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > No virus found in this incoming message. > Checked by AVG. > Version: 7.5.519 / Virus Database: 269.23.1 - Release Date: 4/17/2008 > 12:00 > AM > > No virus found in this outgoing message. > Checked by AVG. > Version: 7.5.519 / Virus Database: 269.23.1/1385 - Release Date: > 4/18/2008 > 9:30 AM > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > > > > > ********************************************************************** > This message and its attachments may contain legally > privileged or confidential information. If you are not the > intended recipient, you must not disclose or use the > information contained in it. If you have received this e-mail > in error, please notify the sender immediately by return > e-mail and delete the e-mail. > > Any content of this message and its attachments which > does not relate to the official business of Eraring Energy > must be taken not to have been sent or endorsed by > Eraring Energy. No warranty is made that the e-mail or > attachment(s) are free from computer virus or other defect. > ********************************************************************** > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > > ------------------------------------ > > To listen to the show archives go to link > http://www.acbradio.org/pweb/index.php?module=pagemaster&PAGE_user_op=view_page&PAGE_id=33&MMN_position=47:29 > Or > ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/ > > The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is. > http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday > > Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various > List Members At The Following address: > http://www.jaws-users.com/JAWS/handyman/ > > Visit the archives page at the following address > http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected]/ > > If you would like to join the JAWS Users List, then visit the following > address for more information: > http://www.jaws-users.com/ > For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man > list just send a blank message to: > [EMAIL PROTECTED] Groups Links > > > > > > > -- > No virus found in this incoming message. > Checked by AVG. > Version: 7.5.524 / Virus Database: 269.23.2/1388 - Release Date: 4/20/2008 > 3:01 PM >
