Yep, that is exactly what you'd do and I sure did. I did use a wrench, but did not tighten it, but a quarter turn or a tad more. Only reason is I really couldn't get a good grip to insure it wouldn't leak. I could be wrong and maybe it would not leak, but I surely didn't want to take any chances at all. At least this time I didn't get much oil on the driveway. Seems so difficult to get things lined up just so in order to catch that first stream. I did get smart this time and once I pulled the plug, I stuck my finger against the hole and insured the flow was going to hit that pan as close as possible. It worked pretty well.
On Jun 1, 2008, at 1:20 PM, Bob Kennedy wrote: > With an oil filter you won't go wrong if you only tighten it by > hand. It's when you decide to use a wrench to tighten it back on > that you can get into trouble. > > You should put a little oil on the O ring just before you install it > and some oil in the filter as well. > ----- Original Message ----- > From: Scott Howell > To: [email protected] > Sent: Sunday, June 01, 2008 11:32 AM > Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] changing spark plugs > > Yeah, I gave them about a quarter turn, backed them out, ran them in > and one more quarter turn. Just to be sure it felt right. They would > just run in and hit the ring that crushes down, but damn all if I > could tell at first what to expect. So, I figure as long as it's not > to tight, all will be good. I did the same with the oil filter, but > gave that a tad more than a quarter. I'm realizing that despite what > my father used to do, not everything needs to be cranked as tight as > you physically can turn it. He'd do that with everything including > drink containers and drive the rest of us insane trying to get it open > again. grin > > On Jun 1, 2008, at 8:19 AM, Bob Kennedy wrote: > > > And just remember it doesn't take loads of torque to seat a plug. My > > wrists over the years have gotten fairly strong and I hold the > > ratchet pretty close to the near end when I run them back in. When > > they bottom out I don't like to give a full quarter turn more. They > > will go but coming back out is the catch... > > ----- Original Message ----- > > From: Scott Howell > > To: [email protected] > > Sent: Sunday, June 01, 2008 5:43 AM > > Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] changing spark plugs > > > > And although I did not mention this, I used that material for > sure. I > > should have pointed that out because you are absolutely correct and > > being that I hope to have this beast for a few more years, I'm sure > > I'll be changing the plugs and thus would be the sucker who doesn't > > want to have to do something extreme to get the old plugs out. grin > > > > On Jun 1, 2008, at 3:04 AM, Larry Stansifer wrote: > > > > > Please be advised the subject line has been modified to reflect > the > > > general > > > information contained in the following message. > > > > > > Having spent my entire career working with aluminum I found that > any > > > time > > > you install spark-plugs or for that matter almost any threaded > > > fastener into > > > an aluminum assembly you are well advised to use just a touch of > > > nickel > > > based anti seize compound on the threads. This is especially > true of > > > spark-plugs because you might be the poor sucker who removes > them on > > > the > > > next tune-up. After thousands of miles of heating and cooling > steel > > > and > > > aluminum develop a very-very close relationship. > > > Bob, I am certain that you found this to be true in the marine > > > industry as > > > well. > > > > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > > > > > > > Scott Howell > [EMAIL PROTECTED] > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > > Scott Howell [EMAIL PROTECTED] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
