What you need is a decent quality contractor grade table saw preferably with a 
cast steel table not pressed. It will cost you between four and eight or more 
hundred dollars but worth every bit of it. You could go for a cabinet saw but 
you are looking at 220 volts and two thousand bucks or more and while I would 
love one now it won't be for a while. Anything less will be disappointing 
unless you are willing to struggle with it to get through this project then 
clean around it the rest of your life. I have purchased loads of tools over the 
years like that, it isn't really a saving unless you really didn't need it 
anyway. It will be like your battery circular saw, it actually worked but not 
much fun.


  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: Scott Howell 
  To: [email protected] 
  Sent: Sunday, June 15, 2008 7:17 AM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] cutting straight lines


  Interesting, something else to look into. Of course at the end of the 
  day, a table saw might be a little cheaper if I end up getting a 
  corded modle and guides and the like. Hell even that Ryobi might be 
  worth it or spend a little more and get something even better. Thanks 
  for the input folks, this is helpful.
  On Jun 15, 2008, at 6:37 AM, John Schwery wrote:

  > Scott, I have never seen one but I have heard about these rail and
  > fence systems where a circular saw is fastened to the system and the
  > saw slides along, cutting the wood. I don't know who makes them.
  >
  > earlier, Scott Howell, wrote:
  >
  > >Thanks, that is an interesting idea for sure. Unfortunately a hand 
  > saw
  > >would take a bit with as hard as this stuff is, but your obviously
  > >more of a man than I. grin You must have arms the size of most folks
  > >legs to be cutting most of this stuff by hand. grin.
  > >The piece of metal I have isn't a T, but it's kind of the same idea,
  > >but I'll check into these, it might prove to be a better solution.
  > >
  > >On Jun 15, 2008, at 12:20 AM, Victor Gouveia wrote:
  > >
  > > > Hi Scott,
  > > >
  > > > I bought a four foot T-square, made of steel, and it serves that 
  > same
  > > > purpose, as a straight edge guide to cut material with.
  > > >
  > > > It makes for an excellent straight edge to score the work with 
  > also.
  > > >
  > > > The good thing is, as a cutting guide, and because it's made of
  > > > steel, the
  > > > saw would rather go through any wood, as it's softer to cut 
  > through
  > > > than the
  > > > steel, so it makes for an ideal cutting guide.
  > > >
  > > > I got the suggestion from Don Patterson on the Blind Handy Man 
  > Show.
  > > > He was
  > > > reading a letter I had sent into the show, and Don suggested the 
  > steel
  > > > straight edge.
  > > >
  > > > Granted, I use old elbow grease to cut any wood I need to saw
  > > > through, not a
  > > > power tool, so I don't know how the straight edge would handle a
  > > > power saw
  > > > of some kind.
  > > >
  > > > In any case, I believe that the T-squares will go up to lengths of
  > > > around
  > > > five or six feet, depending on where you get it, but, once clamped
  > > > to the
  > > > stock that needs to be cut, it's a great tool.
  > > >
  > > > Even for cutting dry wall, and making sure you score it straight.
  > > >
  > > > Victor
  > > > Co-moderator
  > > > Blind Movie Buffs List
  > > > Guidedogs List
  > > >
  > > >
  > > >
  > >
  > >Scott Howell
  > ><mailto:s.howell%40verizon.net>[EMAIL PROTECTED]
  > >
  > >[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
  > >
  > >
  > >No virus found in this incoming message.
  > >Checked by AVG.
  > >Version: 8.0.100 / Virus Database: 270.3.0/1503 - Release Date:
  > >6/14/2008 6:02 PM
  >
  > John
  >
  > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
  >
  >
  > 

  Scott Howell
  [EMAIL PROTECTED]

  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



   


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