Well, I do have the time, and not the money.  The insurance company figures
out what it should cost to replace, an that is what they pay for, minus my
deductible, and quotes have been coming in much higher then the insurance
figures.  I am guessing that is the case because vinyl siding, and asphalt
shingles all use some oil products in the manufacturing process.  The
insurance companies aren't keeping up with the market rates of the products.
Good 25 year 3 tab shingles are going for $50 a square now, when they were
only about $30 a square not to long ago.  On a 20 square roof, like mine,
that is a difference of $400.  That does not include the 15 lb roofing felt
either.  Vinyl siding, which was about $25 a square on sale not long ago, is
now on sale for $45 a square.  I don't want vinyl, but if that is what I can
afford,then that is what I will get.
Thanks,
Michael
 

  _____  

From: [email protected] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of Dale Leavens
Sent: Wednesday, June 18, 2008 5:20 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Siding



I resided this house 17 or 18 years ago. It is a two story building 32 by 36
feet. I used what is called Canex, it is really a pressed paper with a hard
surface formed to look like aged painted wood. The boards are 12 feet long
and 8 inches wide, quite heavy. I used a similar product, a little different
design for vertical siding on the gable ends and aluminum soffit and fascia.

The trick is to measure each corner from the under side of where the soffet
will go down and dividing that evenly by the virtual width of the boards to
locate the height of the bottom mounting member what ever that is and
depending on the system. Then you need to get the bottom member that the
siding hangs on straight from one corner to the other.

Once that is done it is just a matter of laying each course and nailing it
into place until you hit a door or a window. The next trick is to cut out
when you hit the bottom or top of window openings or the top of door
openings or other penetrations like vents.

Various siding systems use different trim materials. Many use 'J' mold
around window and door frames which you apply before you start the siding.
Some use corner caps which are also applied first. Some corner caps are
under-cut to hide the ends of the siding, others are designed to but up
tight.

Most applications you will apply a drip cap over windows and doors but you
probably don't have to remove that.

Frankly though, if the insurance is willing to pay a contractor that is the
way I would go. They will come in with scaffolding, tarps to cover plantings
and a skip to collect the debris and they will be in and out of there in a
couple of days. You will be renting all that stuff for a long time without a
crew and even paying demurrage on the skip or dumpster will cost you a lot
more because it will take you days to strip shingles, collect them up and
load them into the skip. A crew will strip the building in a couple of days
and have it all picked up. They will have their own arrangements to get
scaffolding to and from the site and so on and the contractor is protected
by insurance and Worker's compensation, you are not.

I did it because I was paying for it and I had the time but not the money.
This isn't your situation.

----- Original Message ----- 
From: Michael Baldwin 
To: blindhandyman@ <mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com 
Sent: Wednesday, June 18, 2008 9:24 AM
Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Siding

Hi,
Has anyone on here sided their house? Baseball sized hail caused the
insurance company to total my siding and roof, and I can't believe what
these dorks want to charge to do the work. And my insurance agent don't
care if I do it, as long as it is done. I want to use the Fiber Cement
siding. I have done some roofing before, and helped on large house reroofs,
but not done one this big myself, but roofing isn't that hard, just don't'
fall off the roof, LOL.
Puts my other remodel on the back burner though until this stuff is done.
Michael

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