Ralph,
While it is true that banks want to know that the roof has at least 
five years of life left in it, sometimes you can make an agreement 
with the buyer such as taking the approximate cost of the roof off 
the price, and they agree to put the new roof on. Loans are so hard 
to get now that I would try to work with your buyer. I just heard 
yesterday that many banks are requiring a 30 percent down payment.

At 08:58 AM 7/28/2008, you wrote:

>I'm thinking the bank won't loan unless the roof is taken care of. My
>experience is that they want to know it has at least five years of life left
>in it.
>
>_____
>
>From: 
><mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com>[email protected] 
>  [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
>On Behalf Of Dale Leavens
>Sent: Monday, July 28, 2008 1:52 PM
>To: <mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com>[email protected]
>Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Roofing
>
>Well here is the thing,
>
>You shingle the roof and add that to your asking price or you leave it still
>in reasonable dry condition and accept that bit less for the sale.
>
>By the way, you do not remove the plastic strips from the shingles. they are
>there to keep the shingles from sticking together in the bundle and serve no
>other purpose. While it doesn't probably do any harm to remove them there is
>no benefit in it.
>
>.
>----- Original Message -----
>From: Ralph Supernaw
>To: blindhandyman@ <mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
>Sent: Monday, July 28, 2008 2:23 PM
>Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Roofing
>
>I'm getting ready to sell my house. I don't want to do something that will
>be a problem for the new owners but also don't want to spend extra money.
>
>The shingles on the house are still very flat. The problem is that they
>have lost a lot of the sand or gravel. We are in Nebraska and so have wide
>temprature variations and sometimes high winds. Even with some storms with
>winds over 60 or 70 mph we've never lost a shingle or even had one bend
>back.
>
>Also, this is a 15 year-old manufactured home.
>
>Ralph
>_____
>
>From: blindhandyman@ <mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com>
>yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandyman@
><mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com]
>On Behalf Of Jimmy Podsim
>Sent: Monday, July 28, 2008 12:31 PM
>To: blindhandyman@ <mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
>Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Roofing
>
>I agree with all this except for the felt.
>
>Jimmy...KD5QHH...
>New home page, <http://www.podsim.>http://www.podsim. 
><http://www.podsim. <http://www.podsim.us>
>us> us
>
>MSN, [EMAIL PROTECTED] <mailto:podsim%40yahoo.com> com
>Yahoo, [EMAIL PROTECTED] <mailto:jp.kd5qhh%40sbcglobal.net> .net
>
>From: blindhandyman@ <mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com>
>yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandyman@
><mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com]
>On Behalf Of Dale Leavens
>Sent: Monday, July 28, 2008 12:23 PM
>To: blindhandyman@ <mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
>Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Roofing
>
>I concur with RJ!
>
>Your new shingles will not last nearly as long laid over old ones, the wind
>is more likely to remove them, the heat to distort and accelerate their
>failure and you won't have the opportunity to inspect the decking for
>prospective repair and/or maintenance. The extra cost is really an
>investment.
>
>Like RJ, I see no value in adding a layer of roofing felt. I believe he has
>it right.
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: RJ
>To: blindhandyman@ <mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
><mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com>
>Sent: Monday, July 28, 2008 1:11 PM
>Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Roofing
>
>A utility knife will cut the shingles. Just cut them on the reverse side. If
>there was any way to talk you out of shingling over the old shingles, I
>would. Felt isn't necessary if you insist on going over the old shingles.
>Tips. I would put down drip edge on all edgesand a guide is a handy tool
>made of a 3/4 inch board about 3 inches wide and 7 or 8 inch high. Just cut
>out the groove length needed for the shingles you are applying. 4 or 5
>inches is standard. You will also find slits on the shingle on the top you
>can run your first row and than start from any where on the roof using the
>slits. There is also slits on the side for the right spacer of the shingles.
>I don't use these but the spacer jig. , to make sure your tabs are in
>alinement. architectural shingles I like the best , but only put them on
>once. They are easy to apply, but they had a line where to apply the nail.
>Had to make a jig to air nail the shingles in the right area.
>RJ,
>----- Original Message -----
>From: Ralph Supernaw
>To: blindhandyman@ <mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
><mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com>
>Sent: Monday, July 28, 2008 12:35 PM
>Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Roofing
>
>I am making plans to shingle my house. It currently has one layer so I'm
>planning to shingle over the current layer rather than remove it. I have a
>couple questions:
>
>1. What do you use to cut the shingles. I can't imagine what would stay
>sharp after two or three shingles.
>
>2. Do I need to lay down a layer of felt or can I put the shingles directly
>on the current layer?
>
>Any other tips and tricks you might suggest would be appreciated.
>
>Ralph
>
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