You might like to try acrylic calking. If the gaps to be closed aren't too wide then I like to cut a fairly small diagonal hole by cutting on an angle across a narrow part of the tip of the cartridge then running a long nail up to puncture the seal where the nipple enters the tube.
I usually try to push the bead but this does take some practice and is a lot easier if you can see but, if you keep a little bucket handy and your finger really quite wet you can form a very nice smooth and shape a sort of cove and keep the bead running more or less consistently. Don't press too hard or the stuff sticks like snot. It is however more forgiving generally than silicone and it remains pliable for a long time. Many forms are paintable. It helps to have a clean surface but it should be dry, wet will resist sticking just as wet on the finger does. Hope this helps. ----- Original Message ----- From: RJ To: [email protected] Sent: Friday, August 22, 2008 11:30 AM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Window calking Wet your putty knife as you smooth out the putty. ----- Original Message ----- From: Larry Stansifer To: [email protected] Sent: Friday, August 22, 2008 11:01 AM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Window calking Hi folks, Ok this weekend's shop improvement project is going to be calking up some windows in the hot-rod shop. Is there anything better than good old silicone and how do I get the finished job to come out looking good? I tried this once before on a couple of windows in my rental property and the finished job looked like crap. TNX Larry [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
