Hi Dale, Two grate posts!
I will keep this information till it cools off then when I get ready to tackle this project, I might contact you for a couple of questions, should they come up. Again, thanks. At 10:37 PM 8/26/2008, you wrote: >In the case of the basement I had a backhoe come in and dig right >down to the bottom of the footings, in this case about 7 feet deep >and probably a little better than two feet wide. I laid the weeping >tile in the bottom of the trench only a short distance from the side >of the footing then poured about a foot of crushed rock over the >lot. I then filled up to within a few inches grade with sand. Mostly >then I applied topsoil but again graded it away from the basement >walls even a slight slope is enough. In my case I fitted each end >into a 'T' which fitted into the town drain. > >We use what they refer to Weeping tile in a sock which is to say >that the pipe is wrapped in a light fabric tube. The trick is to >offer a path of least resistance to the water so it runs into the >drain and not through my basement walls. > >It depends on how much work you are willing to do and how tough you >are. I would probably be willing to dig a trench a couple of feet >deep and a foot and a half wide but it depends on how long and how >hard the soil is, you may need a pick to open it in which case a >backhoe and operator used to cost about 50 bucks an hour and they >can move a lot of dirt in an hour. > >You quite probably should call the utility people to mark any gas, >water and electric lines before you dig. Even by hand, you could >have a nasty experience. Of course it is possible to make a good >educated guess, I assume there were footings dug for your sun room >and that the electrical service isn't stuck to the outside of it. > >----- Original Message ----- >From: Kevin Doucet >To: <mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com>[email protected] >Sent: Tuesday, August 26, 2008 10:59 PM >Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] need help with another water problem > >How far away of the footings of your basement are these trenches you >dug? Also what would I need to dig a trench 1 and a half or two feet >deep? And lastly, do I need to get the plumbing and electrician >people out to mark problematic areas for digging a trench that deep? > >Thanks grate help so far. > >At 07:54 PM 8/26/2008, you wrote: > > >We arrange a drainage system like this around the outside of the > >footings of our basements to carry any water which percolates down > >the outside of the basement walls usually into storm drains or under > >the footing and into a sump in the basement where a pump is > >installed to pump the water up and away. It is often used around the > >footings of slab construction too. You should also do what you can > >to grade the surface ground away from the building. > > > >If the drain is a foot and a half or more below where traffic is > >driving it should not be crushed. > > > >You might do as well just to excavate along the outside edge of the > >building a little below the level of the floor and lay the weeping > >tile in the bottom of the trench with a slope then backfill with > >clean gravel and, depending on the elevations, the end of the tile > >can be just left to dribble out onto the ground. make sure too that > >your eaves troughs aren't adding to the water load. > > > >It is a little difficult without really thoroughly understanding the > >ground but the principle is certainly sound. > > > >----- Original Message ----- > >From: Kevin Doucet > >To: > <mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com><mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com>[email protected] > >Sent: Tuesday, August 26, 2008 7:50 PM > >Subject: [BlindHandyMan] need help with another water problem > > > > >When I moved in my current house I noticed dampness on the back wall > > >of the garage. Later I realized when it rained really hard or > > >persistently, water was standing behind the garage and moistening > > >the wall. Well later, I had a 20 by 20 sun room build behind the > > >garage. I assumed, wrongly, this would alleviate my water problem. > > >Now when it rains hard or persistently, I get water in the end of > > >the room at precisely the same location of the previous problem, > > >only now it is along the rear of the room as well as along the side > > >adjacent. So far I have not finished that room so the problem is not > > >as bad as it could be. > > > >I blame this problem on the fact that because just behind my new room > >is a rather steep grade of about 5 or 6 feet high. Now what I would > >like to do is channel this water about 10 or 15 feet to the other > >side of my driveway ware there is a ditch which would take the > >offending water to the street drain. > > > >I considered digging a trench behind the room at the end ware the > >problem is and over to the ditch at the other side of my drive, > >placing some of the 4" perforated plastic drain pipe in this > >ditch. Below is a bit of text I took from a guide to get rid of > >standing water in a yard. Do you think this approach will work for my > >situation and do you think I could allow vehicles to drive over this > >berried pipe with out damage to the pipe? > > > >Getting rid of standing water in your yard. > > > >Firstbuy some 4" perforated plastic drain pipe. The best kind > >for this purpose is the flexible kind that comes in 100' > >rolls. This type of drain pipe has small slits all around the > >pipe. These slits allow water to enter the pipe so it can be > >carried away. > > > >Just dig a trench from the center of the low area you are > >trying to drain, to the point that you intend to drain it to. > >Using a simple line level you can set up a string over top of > >the trench to make sure that your pipe runs down hill all the > >way. A line level is a very small level that is designed to > >attach to a string. Any hardware stores sells them for just a > >couple of dollars. Set the string up so it is level, then > >measure from the string to the bottom of your trench to make > >sure you have constant fall. You should have 6" fall for every > >100' of pipe. > > > >The highest point is going to be the area that you are trying > >to drain, so you only want your pipe deep enough at this point > >so it can be covered with soil. Once the trench is dug just > >lay the pipe in. At the highest end of the pipe you'll need to > >insert a strainer into the end of the pipe to keep soil from > >entering the pipe. > > > >Cover the pipe with some washed stone, and then backfill the > >trench with soil. The washed stone creates a void around the > >pipe so that the water can find it's way into the pipe. Washed > >stone is usually inexpensive stone that has been washed so it > >is clean and free of mud. The only part of the pipe that needs > >to be exposed is the low end, where the water exits the pipe. > >Do not put a strainer in that end. > > > >Thanks. > > > >Kevin Doucet > ><mailto:contactme%40kevindoucet.com><mailto:contactme%40kevindoucet > .com>[EMAIL PROTECTED] > > > >confuse as says > > > >Blind man with unmarked forehead has large belly! > > > >[Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > > > > >Internal Virus Database is out of date. > >Checked by AVG - <http://www.avg.com>http://www.avg.com > >Version: 8.0.138 / Virus Database: 270.6.6/1626 - Release Date: > >8/21/2008 6:54 PM > >Thanks. > >Kevin Doucet ><mailto:contactme%40kevindoucet.com>[EMAIL PROTECTED] > >confuse as says > >Blind man with unmarked forehead has large belly! > >[Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > >Internal Virus Database is out of date. >Checked by AVG - http://www.avg.com >Version: 8.0.138 / Virus Database: 270.6.6/1626 - Release Date: >8/21/2008 6:54 PM Thanks. Kevin Doucet [EMAIL PROTECTED] confuse as says Blind man with unmarked forehead has large belly!
