I don't know about the attachment, it wasn't available when I bought mine a year or so ago. It may be that you could grind more off one side for the reasons given if you can't hold the blade aligned straight but the one guide bar allowed me to hold the blades I sharpened such that the abrasive ran sort of in the axis of the cutting edge of the blade. Now it is true that the left edge is in the attack direction of rotation and the right edge is in the retreating direction with the middle I suppose getting less speed of passing abrasive but that doesn't cause the blade to crown if you are holding it straight. If you are not there is no reason that you would be holding it any straighter on a passing belt and of course you have to run it laterally over the edge of a grinding wheel which is a lot harder to judge accurately.
If you are chipping blades then you will certainly want a grinder or very aggressive belt sander to hog away enough to remove the ship. The trouble there is over heating the steel. there are the slow speed wet grinders from Delta and others for similar money and they have a wide variety of attachments and specialty jigs which bring the cost rapidly up. The real beauty of the WorkSharp in my view is to keep a good edge because it is so quick and easy that it is easily done. You might want to touch the edge a little before returning the tool after use and this is so practical to do. ----- Original Message ----- From: Ralph Supernaw To: [email protected] Sent: Saturday, October 25, 2008 3:10 PM Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Wood Sharp WS3000 I read some reviews that indicated the Wood Sharp does not work as well for wider plane blades. One reviewer said it was because the faster speed of the outside removes more material than the relatively slower speed of the inside and that this is evident on plane blades. I can't see how that would be the case if the blade is held at a constant angle but wanted to find out if you had experienced this. Also, has anyone used the optional wide blade attachment. It costs $50+ and so I don't want to buy it if it doesn't make much difference. Thanks, Ralph _____ From: [email protected] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Dale Leavens Sent: Friday, October 24, 2008 4:30 PM To: [email protected] Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Wood Sharp WS3000 I have one and I love it. It works very easily for sharpening chisels with a precise angle setting guide. You slide the chisel flat side down up a sort of shoot and the bevel edge comes in contact with the spinning underside of the disk. It will set 20, 25, 30 and 35 degree angles. You can grind a 30 degree face on a chisel then adjust to 35 and polish a micro bevel with the really fine paper. To sharpen something wider it is a sort of free-hand job made easier by a guide bar you can fairly easily estimate the angle you need. Unless you have a big chip to grind out it doesn't take long at all to get a really good edge. I would recommend that you pay the extra for the leather surfaced honing disk so you can put a mirror finish on the edge. I have ground some of the blades of my garden chipper but for that you really want a grinder to remove enough material to remove the sorts of nicks that will acquire and probably for grinding things like lawn mower blades. ----- Original Message ----- From: Ralph Supernaw To: blindhandyman@ <mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com Sent: Friday, October 24, 2008 3:59 PM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Wood Sharp WS3000 Some months ago there was a discussion about how well a blind person can use the Wood Sharp to sharpen chissles and plane blade. I can't remember the conclusion. Would someone please refresh my memory or maybe add more to the discussion? I am considering the purchase of the model WS3000. Thanks, Ralph [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
