OK, If you put the first coat of boiled linseed then add coats of raw you should do fine. The MDF will suck the first coat in like mad so it shouldn't get too sticky and you are correct, subsequent coats can get hard to dry but the raw will usually allow you to build up layers, you can go easy and quit when you start having drying problems. I like the finish of linseed oil but it isn't all that durable. It is however easily freshened up and things don't stick to it very well if it is kept reasonably fresh.
Another really quite durable finish is melamine paint. Not so easy to use if you don't see a little and again you will want a couple of coats because the first will disappear a little unevenly into the dry MDF. I like to gently sand with something like 180 or finer grit between coats and tack the dust off carefully just before subsequent coats for a smooth finish. Melamine paint is incredibly durable but rather more expensive. A liter or in your country a quart should easily cover a bench top with plenty to spare and there in lies another dilemma, what to do with the heels of cans of paint. ----- Original Message ----- From: Agent86b To: [email protected] Sent: Friday, November 21, 2008 10:20 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Coat MDF Ah, thanks for this one I had forgotten Danish oil. The reason I was thinking of thinning the Linseed oil with turps is so it would not remain sticky. Thanks for the help. Max. on 13:55 22/11/2008, Dale Leavens said: >Hi Max, > >Certainly you can use linseed oil however I don't know of any good >reason why you would want to thin it. Boiled linseed oil takes >longer to dry fully it is true particularly after the second >application but you could use raw linseed oil instead. > >You can buy a quart of something like tung oil or Danish Oil finish >for about $15.00. Danish oil is a mix of oil and varnish so it puts >down a layer of truly protective coating some of which will sink >into the mdf and you can wipe it on with a rag which is really also >very blind friendly. The finish can be renewed from time-to-time but >it is really quite durable. > > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: Agent86b > To: [email protected] > Sent: Thursday, November 20, 2008 12:21 AM > Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Coat MDF > > > > Hi all, > I have just built a new work bench. > For the top I have used a sheet of around 1inch thick MDF. I would > like to put some sort of coating on this top. > Can I use the old mixture of half Linseed Oil and half mineral Turps? > If so is there any likelihood of the turps interfering with the glue > in the MDF? > I don't wish to use varnish or paint, as that is more expensive than > the way I propose. The reason I wish to put something on it at all is > just to help stop stuff soaking in to the MDF. > Thanks for any advice. > Max. > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > > > > >[Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > >------------------------------------ > >Send any questions regarding list management to: >[EMAIL PROTECTED] >To listen to the show archives go to link >http://www.acbradio.org/pweb/index.php?module=pagemaster&PAGE_user_op=view_page&PAGE_id=33&MMN_position=47:29 >Or >ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/ > >The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is. >http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday > >Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From >Various List Members At The Following address: >http://www.jaws-users.com/JAWS/handyman/ > >Visit the archives page at the following address >http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected]/ > >If you would like to join the JAWS Users List, then visit the >following address for more information: >http://www.jaws-users.com/ >For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy >Man list just send a blank message to: >[EMAIL PROTECTED] Groups Links > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
