Grate info. This definitely solves my straight edge problem. Now if I can get comfortable with the measuring method you described I will be set. Still not discounting a tactile or talking measure.
At 05:01 PM 12/3/2008, you wrote: >When I was doing any amount of frame construction and before God >made power miter saws or before I could afford one anyway I used to >make cutting guides or jigs. I would often dado a length of straight >2 by 4 stock just enough to fit a pair of cross pieces at right >angles for a 90 degree cut into the face of the 2 by 4 with my table >saw just far enough apart to drop over the 2 by 4 to be cut. This >forms a sort of capital 'H' to drop over the wood to be cut then >slide it to the point you want to cut plus or minus the distance >from the edge of the saw shoe to the blade and clamp the jig there >with a 'C' clamp. The cross member of the 'H' then becomes the >guide, just keep the edge of the saw shoe against it and push the saw through. > >You don't need to dado the cross member you could as easily run a >couple of screws, I just liked the accuracy and security. Thanks. Kevin Doucet [EMAIL PROTECTED] confuse as says Blind man with unmarked forehead has large belly!
