what he describes sounds like what happened to my router today. But I wasn't seeing sparks, just that there was this additional heat around my hands. Then, the quick "shut it down" screaming in my head. I did, and it wouldn't go on again. When ya use a tool a lot you get to knowing things like temperature around the work. My Makita sabre saw just fell off of the work mate too many times and won't go either.
On Tue, 6 Jan 2009, Dale Leavens wrote: > Darrin, > > Please excuse my misinformation. I always thought that the stationery saw you > describe as a jigsaw is called a scroll saw. They have a blade suspended > between arms and passing through a table. > > I have burned through two jigsaws and badly damaged a third, I have lived the > story this man tells below. > > I'll look up saber saw just to be sure but it has always been my > understanding that the difference is similar to the difference between a > Skill saw and a hand held circular saw, a sort of brand name becoming the > default generic term. Skidoo for snowmobile, Hoover for vacuum cleaner, that > sort of thing. > > Here is an article I lifted from Yahoo which might help clarify. > > Jigsaw Sort-Out > HASH(0x18de15c) > By Steve Maxwell > Email This Article IM This Article Print This Article > I originally understood that a jigsaw was a hand-held cutting tool, but my > early experiences with one particular machine left me thinking I was actually > holding a small arc welder. The tool was an economy model, and not up to the > task of cutting the 1-inch thick oak I was working with. Blue sparks and a > mushroom cloud of acrid smoke marked the tool's last gasp during that job. > The experience didn't quite set my clothes on fire, but it did kindle a > renewed conviction that the only power tools worth owning are good ones. And > choosing well often means paying more than bargain-basement prices. The first > thing you need to understand before you buy is that jigsaw quality varies > enormously across the board. There are some wonderful machines out there and > some absolutely terrible ones. Be warned. Most of the junk is marketed > directly at you as a do-it-yourselfer. > Jigsaws are safe, relatively quite power saws that cut wood, plastic and > metal with an oscillating blade. They're ideal for light home renovations, > crafts and curved woodworking cuts. And if you and I were walking the aisles > of a big box hardware store looking to choose your first jigsaw, I'd start by > sharing philosophy. I believe that buying one good power tool in your > lifetime is cheaper and more efficient than buying three or four bad ones. > And in the spirit of this quality quest, the first thing to look for in a > jigsaw is orbital blade action. This is an adjustable feature that allows the > blade of a saw to move in a D-shaped pattern during each cutting stroke, > instead of just straight up and down. The result is a much faster cutting > action in wood and plastic than you'd get with straight line blade movement. > In fact, you'll work through material about three times faster with orbital > action than you will without it, all else being equal. The trade-off (and > there always i s > one) is that a D-shaped blade pattern also yields a rougher cut. That's why > all orbital jigsaws can be adjusted to offer no orbit at all (smooth but slow > cutting), all the way up to maximum orbit for fast action through rough > materials where smoothness doesn't count. At its maximum orbital setting, the > D-shaped blade pattern is extreme enough that you can see it. The blade moves > straight down along the back of the D, then curves outwards as it moves up > along the front of the D. > Variable speed is another useful jigsaw feature because it widens tool > versatility. While it's handy to be able to slow down blade action when > slugging through thick hardwood, it's absolutely essential to pull back on > speed when slicing through plastics and metal. A single speed machine offers > less potential because it can't tackle the full range of materials that a > variable speed jigsaw can. > Besides speed adjustment capabilities, jigsaws also divide into two groups > based on how you hold them. Barrel grip saws have no actual handle, but > rather a small diameter body that you grip with your dominant hand, and a > mushroom knob above the blade for the other hand. Top-grip saws have a larger > body with a handle that arcs above it. Good jigsaws are offered in both > formats, though I prefer the barrel grip. Hold both when you've in the store > before you buy. > Any jigsaw is only as good as its blade, and the saw you choose affects the > choice of blades available off the shelf. The most popular of these is the > so-called "Bosch-style", named after the company that made it popular. You'll > find that the best blades most often only come with this style of anchoring > flange. Good jigsaw blades aren't cheap, either. Expect to pay a couple of > dollars or more each, but their performance is worth it. > Even a good jigsaw can't do everything. One limitation is power. Even a > heavy-duty machine has to work hard to cut through 2-inch thick wood, > especially parallel to the grain where the going gets tough. That's where > you'll need to use a coarse blade. Another limitation is accuracy. Since the > blades of all jigsaws are only supported on their top ends, the bottom end is > free to wander a little from side-to-side during a cut. This can be minimized > by using a sharp blade with the correct tooth spacing, but the tendency for > blade wander never completely disappears. That's why you can't count on > jigsaws to create a cut with an absolutely square edge. For that you need a > hand-held circular saw or tablesaw. > Good tools are like friends. The more success you have together, the more you > like them. I bought my jigsaw more than 15 years ago and it's seen me through > many professional and DIY jobs. I also lend it out to friends who always say > what a joy it was to use. That's what a good tool can do. > Sidebar: Jigsaw Buying Basics > When assessing jigsaws in the store look for: > *orbital blade action to speed cuts through rough material > *a motor that draws between 4 and 5 amps according to the name plate > *variable speed capabilities that allow blade movement to be reduced to a > frequency of one or two cycles per second > *a couple of dozen different kinds of blades that fit the machine. > *a carrying case that holds blades, wrenches, instruction manual and goodies. > Jigsaw Sort-Out > HASH(0x18de15c) > By Steve Maxwell > Email This Article IM This Article Print This Article > I originally understood that a jigsaw was a hand-held cutting tool, but my > early experiences with one particular machine left me thinking I was actually > holding a small arc welder. The tool was an economy model, and not up to the > task of cutting the 1-inch thick oak I was working with. Blue sparks and a > mushroom cloud of acrid smoke marked the tool's last gasp during that job. > The experience didn't quite set my clothes on fire, but it did kindle a > renewed conviction that the only power tools worth owning are good ones. And > choosing well often means paying more than bargain-basement prices. The first > thing you need to understand before you buy is that jigsaw quality varies > enormously across the board. There are some wonderful machines out there and > some absolutely terrible ones. Be warned. Most of the junk is marketed > directly at you as a do-it-yourselfer. > Jigsaws are safe, relatively quite power saws that cut wood, plastic and > metal with an oscillating blade. They're ideal for light home renovations, > crafts and curved woodworking cuts. And if you and I were walking the aisles > of a big box hardware store looking to choose your first jigsaw, I'd start by > sharing philosophy. I believe that buying one good power tool in your > lifetime is cheaper and more efficient than buying three or four bad ones. > And in the spirit of this quality quest, the first thing to look for in a > jigsaw is orbital blade action. This is an adjustable feature that allows the > blade of a saw to move in a D-shaped pattern during each cutting stroke, > instead of just straight up and down. The result is a much faster cutting > action in wood and plastic than you'd get with straight line blade movement. > In fact, you'll work through material about three times faster with orbital > action than you will without it, all else being equal. The trade-off (and > there always i s > one) is that a D-shaped blade pattern also yields a rougher cut. That's why > all orbital jigsaws can be adjusted to offer no orbit at all (smooth but slow > cutting), all the way up to maximum orbit for fast action through rough > materials where smoothness doesn't count. At its maximum orbital setting, the > D-shaped blade pattern is extreme enough that you can see it. The blade moves > straight down along the back of the D, then curves outwards as it moves up > along the front of the D. > Variable speed is another useful jigsaw feature because it widens tool > versatility. While it's handy to be able to slow down blade action when > slugging through thick hardwood, it's absolutely essential to pull back on > speed when slicing through plastics and metal. A single speed machine offers > less potential because it can't tackle the full range of materials that a > variable speed jigsaw can. > Besides speed adjustment capabilities, jigsaws also divide into two groups > based on how you hold them. Barrel grip saws have no actual handle, but > rather a small diameter body that you grip with your dominant hand, and a > mushroom knob above the blade for the other hand. Top-grip saws have a larger > body with a handle that arcs above it. Good jigsaws are offered in both > formats, though I prefer the barrel grip. Hold both when you've in the store > before you buy. > Any jigsaw is only as good as its blade, and the saw you choose affects the > choice of blades available off the shelf. The most popular of these is the > so-called "Bosch-style", named after the company that made it popular. You'll > find that the best blades most often only come with this style of anchoring > flange. Good jigsaw blades aren't cheap, either. Expect to pay a couple of > dollars or more each, but their performance is worth it. > Even a good jigsaw can't do everything. One limitation is power. Even a > heavy-duty machine has to work hard to cut through 2-inch thick wood, > especially parallel to the grain where the going gets tough. That's where > you'll need to use a coarse blade. Another limitation is accuracy. Since the > blades of all jigsaws are only supported on their top ends, the bottom end is > free to wander a little from side-to-side during a cut. This can be minimized > by using a sharp blade with the correct tooth spacing, but the tendency for > blade wander never completely disappears. That's why you can't count on > jigsaws to create a cut with an absolutely square edge. For that you need a > hand-held circular saw or tablesaw. > Good tools are like friends. The more success you have together, the more you > like them. I bought my jigsaw more than 15 years ago and it's seen me through > many professional and DIY jobs. I also lend it out to friends who always say > what a joy it was to use. That's what a good tool can do. > Sidebar: Jigsaw Buying Basics > When assessing jigsaws in the store look for: > *orbital blade action to speed cuts through rough material > *a motor that draws between 4 and 5 amps according to the name plate > *variable speed capabilities that allow blade movement to be reduced to a > frequency of one or two cycles per second > *a couple of dozen different kinds of blades that fit the machine. > *a carrying case that holds blades, wrenches, instruction manual and goodies. > > > Dale leavens > > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: Darrin Porter > To: [email protected] > Sent: Tuesday, January 06, 2009 3:37 PM > Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] shopping essentials > > > Dale, > > I beg to differ: > > A saber saw and a jig saw, although used for similar purposes are far from > the same tool. A saber saw is a portable power tool with a short > recipricating blade used for cutting out odd or intricate shapes from thin > material. A jig saw is a stationary or benchtop tool used for a similar > purpose. The main difference is that, with a saber saw, you move the saw > around the material. To use a jig saw, you manipulate the material while the > saw blade remains stationary. > > As a side note, as a blind wood worker, I find both tools of little value > since I can't follow the lines of an intricate shape and templates are not > practicle. > > Darrin > > Darrin Porter > Senior Technical Engineer > > United Ocean Services, L.L.C. > 1300 East 8th Avenue > Tampa, Florida 33605 > (813) 209-4247 (office)(813) 744-0011 (cellular phone) > (813) 242-4849 (fax) > [email protected]<mailto:[email protected]> > > ________________________________ > From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] > On Behalf Of Dale Leavens > Sent: Friday, January 02, 2009 4:43 PM > To: [email protected] > Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] shopping essentials > > Jig saw and saber saw are different names for the same thing. > > Not too sure what "essentials" I would buy from Home Depot, depends a lot on > what you already have. > > A good quality framing square has a lot of uses, cheap ones will bend. A > decent trisquare. One almost always has some use for a good hand saw from > time-to-time. No one ever has too many clamps. A good rubber coated dead blow > hammer I am always reaching for now that I have one. Chisels, either a set or > a couple of good say Stanley, 3/4 inch, half inch maybe one inch and quarter > inch and an oil stone to touch them up on. A spring loaded center punch to > help accurately locate screws and drill holes in the middle of hinge and > other hardware holes. A good collection of sheets of sand paper. You might > want to label or organize it so you know what is what, something I so far > have resisted doing. Everyone should have an organized sandpaper collection. > If your store sells screws in boxes you might like to buy a collection of > them, round head and bugle head say 3/8ths up to 3 inches but bigger > increments as you get to the longer ones. Say 3/8 #4, 3/4 #6 , 1 inch #6 > and/or #8, simila r > inch && a quarter, inch & a half, maybe 2 and three inch. > > There is a pretty good start and will probably use up more than two hundred > bucks. > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: john schwery > To: [email protected]<mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com> > Sent: Friday, January 02, 2009 3:36 PM > Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] shopping essentials > > Spiro, if you do any cutting of angles, I would get a sliding bevel t > square. I don't think that is the correct name but the thing is made > of 2 main parts so you can get an angle, lock it in place and > transfer that angle to a saw. > > earlier, Spiro, wrote: > > >Hi, > >I am in a fortunate delemna. > >I have been given $200 in Home Depot gift cards. > >I could buy stuff I'll never use; or get essentials. > >Though you guys use things I may not for preference or needs, I was > >wondering what are the > >essentials you would be sure to have on hand if you were going browsing > >there. > >Or, what new gizmo is a must have for you? > >I have enough drill bits. I have almost enough allen wrenches, need > >phillips screwdrivers (never have enough) > >I could use Super Glue pens, silicone cawk, teflon tape, and stuff like > >that. > >What would you folk s get to have around or that must buy? > >Do you know if they have any repair services? > >I have a Makita drill and a Makita saber or jig saw (what's the > >difference again?) that have hit the deck too many times > >and need repair. > >So can we spin this one for a while? > >Thanks for all previous and past info. > > > > > >No virus found in this incoming message. > >Checked by AVG - http://www.avg.com > >Version: 8.0.176 / Virus Database: 270.10.2/1871 - Release Date: > >1/1/2009 5:01 PM > > John > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > ________________________________ > Attention: This email and any accompanying attachments constitute > confidential and/or legally privileged information. If you have received this > email communication in error, please notify the sender immediately and delete > the message and any attachments from your system. > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > >
