If you have an LG, check to see if there is a recall on it. There is a national bulletin out on them, problems with some of the circuit boards is the supposed problem. You can ask where you bought it. ----- Original Message ----- From: Scott Howell To: [email protected] Sent: Monday, January 26, 2009 5:18 AM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] sears refrigerator
Sometimes you hear the coolant making noise in there. We got a new LG not long ago and it is amazingly quite, but on occasion I do hear a tapping noise or other odd sounds that the manual states is normal. What is really odd is hearing the various fans working and no compressor. THe compressor only comes on when it is necessary, but it generally uses the fans to move the existing air around the cabbinent. Scott Howell [email protected] On Jan 25, 2009, at 11:31 AM, Bob Kennedy wrote: > Quite often a clunk at the end of the cycle is just the compressor > shutting off and settling back. It's not the most comforting sound > but a lot of fridges do this no matter where you buy one. > > The best advice I can give is to pay attention to the temps and make > sure they are staying cold. > > I have one I bought from Whirlpool not long ago and when the > compressor comes on it sounds like metal stretching. Most likely it > is air in the line that happened during assembly. But as long as it > keeps cooling I'm not doing anything. by the time you pay a service > call and they tell you a new compressor is needed, especially on the > model I own, I can buy a new one for not much more. > > Depending on the model and maker, a compressor is usually guarantied > for 5 years. Some high end models are for 10 years. But that is a > part that is guarantied. You have to pay the service call and > anything else they feel caused the compressor to fail... > ----- Original Message ----- > From: Rob Monitor > To: [email protected] > Sent: Sunday, January 25, 2009 11:07 AM > Subject: [BlindHandyMan] sears refrigerator > > HI, I have sears refrigerator that is about 6 years old.. When it > turns off it makes a loud banging noise does any one know what that > could be??? The refrigerator is self defrosting and is one of the > top models that year... > THANKS ROB FROM MINNESOTA > ----- Original Message ----- > From: Dale Leavens > To: [email protected] > Sent: Sunday, January 25, 2009 9:11 AM > Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] dryer parts from Sears > > The new talking meter I am using which is that 40 dollar device that > has been around for three or four years now has a continuity test > function. I have to fiddle about to set it on because I forget how > but it works just fine emitting a strong steady tone. > > Usually the fan draws air out of the dryer, pulling it into the > dryer through the heating element. > Another possibility is a failure in the timer. These are notoriously > unreliable and if it isn't closing the connection to the heat > element it won't come on. > > As you say, Installing a new element is not an appealing job by the > time you disassemble the dryer to do it. > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: Bob Kennedy > To: [email protected] > Sent: Sunday, January 25, 2009 8:45 AM > Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] dryer parts from Sears > > 1 breaker is best, providing it's a double pull... Just a joke... > > I have 2 talking meters. My old one from Radio Sack had an audible > continuity tester in it. The new version we've all talked about > doesn't offer that. But if you need one, I can build one in a > separate little box. It's only good for testing continuity. I > started making my own when I worked in the auto service field. The > tool guys were asking a fortune for their's and they use the same > parts. > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: Lee A. Stone > To: [email protected] > Sent: Sunday, January 25, 2009 8:21 AM > Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] dryer parts from Sears > > Well Bob , at the moment I am at a standstill as I await the return of > the meter I had borrowed before.. tomorrow morning I am calling a > Whirpool dealer who is maybe 12 miles North of us to make sure he is > still open. thanks for all the good suggestions. Oh and we have one > breaker for the dryer. thanks Lee > > On Sun, > Jan 25, 2009 at 07:45:21AM -0500, Bob Kennedy wrote: > > I think that is the motor with a spring. The fan in a dryer is the > big wheel that is in all I've ever seen between the drum and the > back of the case. That is what blows the hot air through the holes > in the back of the drum. > > > > The element is usually mounted behind the fan. The element looks a > bit like a Slinky or a coil spring in a circle. > > > > They aren't real hard to get out but you'll have to take about > everything else out first... You'll swear they built the dryer > around the element when you're done. > > > > Before going that far let's go over a couple silly possibilities > first. > > > > First, does the house have breakers or fuses. I've seen dryers > powered through breakers but believe it or not instead of a double > pull breaker there were 2 15 amp breakers making the 30 amp power. > If 1 breaker is tripped and not the other the motor will run but > there's no power to the element. > > > > Same can be said if you have fuses. If one of the 2 fuses has > blown, that might be the problem. If you have a talking multimeter > you can test this real quick. Put the ground probe into the odd > shaped slot on the plug box. Then put the positive or probe with a > button in the other slot. You should get near 110 to 120 volts > there. Do the same on the other slot to be sure. > > > > Now while the plug is out, do a continuity test on the cord > itself. Put 1 probe on the plug end and the other end on the > terminal block. In most cases there will be 3 terminals. Just follow > the split in the cord and touch all 3 if necessary to test for > continuity. If you have it, the cord is good. If not, another > possibility for the problem. Finally, follow the wires from the > terminal block to the element. make sure they are in tact and test > them for continuity as well. If you're feeling lucky, you can plug > in the cord now and test for power at the element. I usually get a > bit chicken at this point... > > > > > > ----- Original Message ----- > > From: Lee A. Stone > > To: [email protected] > > Sent: Sunday, January 25, 2009 7:26 AM > > Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] dryer parts from Sears > > > > > > > > Bob, are you talking about a fan down in the back bottom left of the > > dryer where a spring might be? thanks.Lee > > > > -- > > It's all right letting yourself go as long as you can let yourself > back. > > -- Mick Jagger > > Come and chat with me at #quietzone on irc.newnet.net > > > > > > > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > > > -- > It's all right letting yourself go as long as you can let yourself > back. > -- Mick Jagger > Come and chat with me at #quietzone on irc.newnet.net > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
