Hmmm, interesting and thanks for that info. I'll check into this even though the sounds I rarely hear have anything to do I'm sure with the recall. A good thing to check into in any event.
Scott Howell [email protected] On Jan 26, 2009, at 6:05 AM, Bob Kennedy wrote: > If you have an LG, check to see if there is a recall on it. There is > a national bulletin out on them, problems with some of the circuit > boards is the supposed problem. You can ask where you bought it. > ----- Original Message ----- > From: Scott Howell > To: [email protected] > Sent: Monday, January 26, 2009 5:18 AM > Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] sears refrigerator > > Sometimes you hear the coolant making noise in there. We got a new LG > not long ago and it is amazingly quite, but on occasion I do hear a > tapping noise or other odd sounds that the manual states is normal. > What is really odd is hearing the various fans working and no > compressor. THe compressor only comes on when it is necessary, but it > generally uses the fans to move the existing air around the cabbinent. > Scott Howell > [email protected] > > On Jan 25, 2009, at 11:31 AM, Bob Kennedy wrote: > > > Quite often a clunk at the end of the cycle is just the compressor > > shutting off and settling back. It's not the most comforting sound > > but a lot of fridges do this no matter where you buy one. > > > > The best advice I can give is to pay attention to the temps and make > > sure they are staying cold. > > > > I have one I bought from Whirlpool not long ago and when the > > compressor comes on it sounds like metal stretching. Most likely it > > is air in the line that happened during assembly. But as long as it > > keeps cooling I'm not doing anything. by the time you pay a service > > call and they tell you a new compressor is needed, especially on the > > model I own, I can buy a new one for not much more. > > > > Depending on the model and maker, a compressor is usually guarantied > > for 5 years. Some high end models are for 10 years. But that is a > > part that is guarantied. You have to pay the service call and > > anything else they feel caused the compressor to fail... > > ----- Original Message ----- > > From: Rob Monitor > > To: [email protected] > > Sent: Sunday, January 25, 2009 11:07 AM > > Subject: [BlindHandyMan] sears refrigerator > > > > HI, I have sears refrigerator that is about 6 years old.. When it > > turns off it makes a loud banging noise does any one know what that > > could be??? The refrigerator is self defrosting and is one of the > > top models that year... > > THANKS ROB FROM MINNESOTA > > ----- Original Message ----- > > From: Dale Leavens > > To: [email protected] > > Sent: Sunday, January 25, 2009 9:11 AM > > Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] dryer parts from Sears > > > > The new talking meter I am using which is that 40 dollar device that > > has been around for three or four years now has a continuity test > > function. I have to fiddle about to set it on because I forget how > > but it works just fine emitting a strong steady tone. > > > > Usually the fan draws air out of the dryer, pulling it into the > > dryer through the heating element. > > Another possibility is a failure in the timer. These are notoriously > > unreliable and if it isn't closing the connection to the heat > > element it won't come on. > > > > As you say, Installing a new element is not an appealing job by the > > time you disassemble the dryer to do it. > > > > ----- Original Message ----- > > From: Bob Kennedy > > To: [email protected] > > Sent: Sunday, January 25, 2009 8:45 AM > > Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] dryer parts from Sears > > > > 1 breaker is best, providing it's a double pull... Just a joke... > > > > I have 2 talking meters. My old one from Radio Sack had an audible > > continuity tester in it. The new version we've all talked about > > doesn't offer that. But if you need one, I can build one in a > > separate little box. It's only good for testing continuity. I > > started making my own when I worked in the auto service field. The > > tool guys were asking a fortune for their's and they use the same > > parts. > > > > ----- Original Message ----- > > From: Lee A. Stone > > To: [email protected] > > Sent: Sunday, January 25, 2009 8:21 AM > > Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] dryer parts from Sears > > > > Well Bob , at the moment I am at a standstill as I await the > return of > > the meter I had borrowed before.. tomorrow morning I am calling a > > Whirpool dealer who is maybe 12 miles North of us to make sure he is > > still open. thanks for all the good suggestions. Oh and we have one > > breaker for the dryer. thanks Lee > > > > On Sun, > > Jan 25, 2009 at 07:45:21AM -0500, Bob Kennedy wrote: > > > I think that is the motor with a spring. The fan in a dryer is the > > big wheel that is in all I've ever seen between the drum and the > > back of the case. That is what blows the hot air through the holes > > in the back of the drum. > > > > > > The element is usually mounted behind the fan. The element looks a > > bit like a Slinky or a coil spring in a circle. > > > > > > They aren't real hard to get out but you'll have to take about > > everything else out first... You'll swear they built the dryer > > around the element when you're done. > > > > > > Before going that far let's go over a couple silly possibilities > > first. > > > > > > First, does the house have breakers or fuses. I've seen dryers > > powered through breakers but believe it or not instead of a double > > pull breaker there were 2 15 amp breakers making the 30 amp power. > > If 1 breaker is tripped and not the other the motor will run but > > there's no power to the element. > > > > > > Same can be said if you have fuses. If one of the 2 fuses has > > blown, that might be the problem. If you have a talking multimeter > > you can test this real quick. Put the ground probe into the odd > > shaped slot on the plug box. Then put the positive or probe with a > > button in the other slot. You should get near 110 to 120 volts > > there. Do the same on the other slot to be sure. > > > > > > Now while the plug is out, do a continuity test on the cord > > itself. Put 1 probe on the plug end and the other end on the > > terminal block. In most cases there will be 3 terminals. Just follow > > the split in the cord and touch all 3 if necessary to test for > > continuity. If you have it, the cord is good. If not, another > > possibility for the problem. Finally, follow the wires from the > > terminal block to the element. make sure they are in tact and test > > them for continuity as well. If you're feeling lucky, you can plug > > in the cord now and test for power at the element. I usually get a > > bit chicken at this point... > > > > > > > > > ----- Original Message ----- > > > From: Lee A. Stone > > > To: [email protected] > > > Sent: Sunday, January 25, 2009 7:26 AM > > > Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] dryer parts from Sears > > > > > > > > > > > > Bob, are you talking about a fan down in the back bottom left of > the > > > dryer where a spring might be? thanks.Lee > > > > > > -- > > > It's all right letting yourself go as long as you can let yourself > > back. > > > -- Mick Jagger > > > Come and chat with me at #quietzone on irc.newnet.net > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > > > > > > -- > > It's all right letting yourself go as long as you can let yourself > > back. > > -- Mick Jagger > > Come and chat with me at #quietzone on irc.newnet.net > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > > > > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
