What I do is use a water level to install the wall angles first. Next figure out how long and wide the room is to figure out how long and wide the first (starter ceiling block has to be. You want the ends of the room as well as the width of the room blocks to be as near to the same size as possible. Next your main Tees need to be cut so that your blocks will be the same length on both ends of the room. These main Tees run perpendicular to your joyces. Next, what I do is to run strings across the room from one wall angle to the opposite wall angle. I use dental flauce because it sags less than other string. Now it is time to run the main Tees. Screw in your lag screw making sure it hits your joyst. This lag screw will have a hole in the end of it nearest the floor. Using wire you attach it to the hole in the lag screw and down and through the hole in your main T, then back up through the hole in the lag screw. Using a screwdriver or something similar twist the wire untill the main T is level to the string. After all your main Tees are installed, it is just a matter of snapping the cross Tees into them and laying in your blocks. I also use lag screws and wire at each intersecting cross Tee.
----- Original Message ----- From: Dan Rossi To: Blind Handyman List Sent: Monday, June 22, 2009 3:06 PM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Dropped ceilings I believe I know the basic concept of installing a dropped ceiling, but am I correct in thinking that there are wires hanging from the joists, supporting the long rails of the ceiling framework? What kind of spacing do you use and is it incredibly, amazingly, staggeringly frustrating to get them all to the same length? -- Blue skies. Dan Rossi Carnegie Mellon University. E-Mail: [email protected] Tel: (412) 268-9081 [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
