It's been awhile since we started this process, but having an alternative bathroom slows progress.
I followed all of the great instructions offered here, and it was a successful install. However, just a couple of things. First, the thick rubber seal that goes between the tank and the stool has different thickness on one side of that cone shaped seal than the other. Having had Mr. Buttinsky's participation, when I went to Honolulu he decided to help by putting the seal in. That would have been an awesome idea, but the thicker part of that seal needs to go toward to back or it will drip all over and make you think you are not capable of this task. I removed the bolts and looked at the seal. There is a sort of dip in the opening of the stool, and the thicker part of that seal needs to match. Also, just as a reminder, it is not a good idea to grasp the supply-line with a pair of plyers below the connector to remove it, duh..., After we pruchased a new supply-line, all is well. Thanks to all, Betsy At 06:19 PM 10/29/2009, you wrote: > > >Hi Betsy, > >Did your kit come with a gasket to seal between the tank and the >stool? This is the important part there. > >The gasket you are speaking of is probably unique to that particular >make or model of toilet and serves primarily as a filler between the >two components. It helps keep the tank from wiggling about due to >imperfections in the surfaces of the tank or stool or both in all >probability. Just put it back where you found it. As you snug up the >bolts to secure the tank it will act as a filler. You might even >like to form a small thickness of cardboard or better still a piece >of neoprene or that polyurethane foam they often pack things in just >to thicken up that gasket a little, it will have been well >compressed over the years. Take care not to tighten those bolts too >tight, you don't want to crack the tank or the stool. There should >be a rubber or these days a sort of foam somewhat cone shaped gasket >which seals the junction between the tank and the stool. > >As for your second question, that little pipe thing mostly serves >the purpose of an overflow. It must be some distance below the top >of the tank so, if the water does not shut off at the float valve it >won't spew out over the top of the tank. So long as that is the case >I would just leave it alone.Too short and the water won't ever shut >off because the float won't rise high enough due to the run-off >through that overflow. > >Hope this helps. > >Dale. > >----- Original Message ----- >From: Betsy Whitney >To: blindhandyman-yahoogroups.com >Sent: Thursday, October 29, 2009 11:53 PM >Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Progress on the loose toilet tank > >Aloha everyone, >Two tiny questions. Not sure what some of these things are called, so >bare with me. I removed the tank and took all of the guts out of it. >I scrubbed it down with bleach, rinsed it until I was sure it was >done, wiped it off with clean lintless rags, and let it bake in the >sun for a bit to make sure it was really dry. > >I managed to get all of the rebuild kit into place, but now I have >two questions. > >When I removed the tank from the stool, there was a flat gasket >between the bottom of the tank and the top of the stool. It is shaped >like the letter U. It is about half an inch wide. The open part of >the U was facing the seat. > >outside of the U were two round flat washer looking things, but they >were part of the main gasket. They matched the holes that the bolts >go through to attach the tank and the stool. > >This rebuild kit doesn't have anything in the box that looks like >that. Do I need to get one? If so, what do you call it? > >Second question: >The round pipe looking thing that the little hose attaches to inside >the tank that the water flows through, for the water to go into the >tank is too tall. >I read somewhere that it should be one inch lower than the little >ring on the part where the float cup is. Should I use a hacksaw to shorten it? > >Hope I haven't confused you.. >Thanks bunches, >Betsy >. >End of Message >****************************************************************** >Dolphin Press can provide all of your print-to-Braille, large print >and audio cassette solutions so you can provide effective, meaningful >communication. Quick Response; ACCURATE TRANSLATION; REASONABLE RATES. >Call toll free: 888-868-4717, or e-mail, ><mailto:brailleit%40hawaii.rr.com>[email protected], >http://www.dolphinpress.biz. >****************************************************************** > >[Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
