[uucdigest] Sunday, February 6 2000 Volume 03 : Number 204 ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ | For all available Digest commands including unsubscribe/subscribe, | visit the BMW UUC Digest page: http://www.uucdigest.com | Send SUBMISSIONS to [EMAIL PROTECTED] | Complaints? Send 'em to [EMAIL PROTECTED] if you must. | Visit http://www.bubbaclub.com | www.bimmers.com - "serving enthusiasts on the 'net" | Visit http://www.bimmer.org - ultimate BMW bulletin boards! | Subscribe to the Zionsville Autosport Parts Digest: | http://www.zionsvilleautosport.com/majordomo.htm ����������������������������������������� In this BMW UUC Digest: Re: [uuc] <E30> Audio Upgrade Re: [uuc] <E30> Audio Upgrade [uuc] X5 Has No LSD!?! [uuc] Re: Automatic virgin/head gasket [uuc] 318i cylinder head [uuc] <E30> Audio Upgrade [uuc] <E36>Electrical Gremlins Re: [uuc] <E30> Audio Upgrade [uuc] <E30> paint job (was: more central locking...) [uuc] Shock Mounts [uuc] <E30> audio upgrade Re: [uuc] <E36>Electrical Gremlins ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Sun, 06 Feb 2000 08:32:30 -0800 From: Jim Powell <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [uuc] <E30> Audio Upgrade You'll be happiest with the sound overall if you upgrade the front speakers and use the rears for fill. Then slide that fader to about 75% front. Since you want to keep the stock head unit and amp get efficient front speakers made to sound good with low power. Get coaxials for the front kicks with crossovers. In the end a new head unit will be the best upgrade. So get the speakers for the front now and look into a nice Hi-Power head unit producing about 30-40 watts x 4 sometime later. You can get speakers for about $100 per pair and a head unit would cost about $250. In his scenario you cut power to the aux amp and abandon it. Run the speakers from the new head unit. You also disconnect the rear tweeters. These are installed prices here in CA. YMMV. Jim Bob Fluharty wrote: > > I'm looking for some expert opinion and some BTDT recommendations. If > the only significant improvement comes from a whole new system, I > probably won't do anything. It's just not that bad to justify the > expense. But if some top-line rear speakers would make a difference, > I'd do it in a minute. Other suggestions also welcomed. ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 06 Feb 2000 11:41:05 EST From: "Steven Reed" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [uuc] <E30> Audio Upgrade Bob, I've experienced the same thing. Being a very music oriented person who wants only the best, the stock premium system in MY '87 325iS (you have nice taste :D) just doesn't cut it. I have not done anything to my system at the moment but I've listened to many who have and know already what I will do. Replace those old, worn out rear speakers with some high quality 6x9 speakers - it'll blow you away. Minor, and I emphasize minor, trimming will need to be done... afternoon project. That will clean up the muffled low-end and give the sound more depth. Now let's move up front (working just on speaker switches). You can replace the front kick panel speakers and it will also drastically improve the sound quality. New tweets will clean up the highs and make it all come together. In the end I will probably go all out and create a custom system for my car. It won't be one of those where it rattles the license plate and everyone else hears it more than me, but it will be powerful and of the highest quality. A "sub" in the trunk isn't very easy to do because the trunk is so closed off from the rest of our cars. I'll probably either create some custom door enclosures to contain the added speakers there, or look into porting some low end thru the rear window ledge from the trunk. We'll see. Sorry for rambling, Steve '87 325iS >From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] (Bob Fluharty) >Reply-To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] >To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] >Subject: [uuc] <E30> Audio Upgrade >Date: Sun, 6 Feb 2000 11:07:24 -0500 > > Every year at this time I get the urge for an audio upgrade. (In > summer, windows & sunroof open - who cares?) > > I have the E30 "premium" stock system. Even though it seems to have > the right goodies (6 speakers, aux amp) it's never been a > great-sounding system, and it seems a little worse this winter. By > that I mean the sound seems to get thinner - the highs have no > pizzazz, the lows no punch. This is especially noticeable at low > volume, where, as I get older, I spend most of my time. Cranked up it > still ain't half bad - which leads to that early morning startled > volume adjustment: "Gawd, did I really have it that loud last night?" > But turned low it has that tinny 1963 AM radio sound. My daughter's > '86 VW with a $99 Clarion sounds better at low volume. > > So the question is how and what to upgrade. Speakers are the obvious > place to start. I have heard the opinion that BMW systems are > non-standard and you can't replace parts without creating > compatibility problems; new speakers, for example, even high-quality > new speakers, will not mesh with the rest of the system and therefore > not produce an improvement. And yet, even though visual inspection > shows no tears or other gross deficiencies, it seems my 13-year-old > sun-dried rear speakers have got to be the weakest link in my chain. > > I called Crutchfield and asked for the BMW expert. That turned out to > be the computer on the desk of the guy who had taken the call. The > computer recommended that I replace the 5.25" part of the rear > speakers and disconnect the tweeter. > > Possibilities (just looking at the rear speaker aspect): > 1.New factory speakers from dealer (OK, not likely) > 2.What Crutchfield said (cheap, easy) > 3.Some high-quality 6x9's or 5x7's (some adjustment of rear ledge > panel required, but looks do-able). > > I'm looking for some expert opinion and some BTDT recommendations. If > the only significant improvement comes from a whole new system, I > probably won't do anything. It's just not that bad to justify the > expense. But if some top-line rear speakers would make a difference, > I'd do it in a minute. Other suggestions also welcomed. > > Hope to hear from those of you who have been through this. > > Bob > '87 325is > Cincinnati ______________________________________________________ Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 6 Feb 2000 09:06:01 -0800 From: "Larry Simmons" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] X5 Has No LSD!?! It was interesting to discover that the X5 does NOT have a rear LSD. Bimmer Magazine Feb. 2000 page 50: "DSC-X applies the appropriate brakes to keep the vehicle moving in the right direction. BMW claims this eliminates any need for any type of locking differential." Curious, since the iXs came with a > 25% rear LSD from the factory (25% is standard for most BMW factory LSDs). I remember a "trick" from my early 4X4ing days that made we wonder if this same "trick" is being used in the new DSC-X. When we found the 'ole Chebby K2500 stuck, we would "gently" apply the brakes and "fool" the differential into thinking that both wheels had the "same" traction, which would cause both wheels to pull equally. It made me wonder even more when I read in the December 1999 Roundel page 54: "DSC-X has been supplemented by two additional functions: ADB Automatic Differential Brake and..." 1) Is this really the technology BMW is using to "elimimate the need for a locking differential"? 2) Assuming it is, is this technology as effective as the tried and true LSDs and Quaffe differentials? 3) The list of 3 character electronic "acronyms" for the X5 is awfully long...how does the group feel about computers making all these driving condition decisions automatically? Looks like you can't even completely disable AST (All Season Traction) on the X5! (Isn't ASC-T supposed to be turned off for deep snow starts and 'stuck condition' rocking?) Larry Simmons [EMAIL PROTECTED] www.avantcom.com ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ '91 iX '91 M5 ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 06 Feb 2000 09:11:49 -0800 From: John Edward Miller <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] Re: Automatic virgin/head gasket > I am also an automatic virgin. Other than driving rental cars with > automatic transmissions, I've always had the good fortune of driving > manual cars. So I have a couple of questions to ask -> > 1) If I want to start off much faster than usual, is it okay to shift > it to 1 (first gear), 2, and then D? > 2) Is it okay to redline it this way? Yes, but the transmission should do this pretty much itself if you're putting the stick to it (so to speak.) > 3) Regarding downshifting, I know I just have to stomp on the gas to > get it to downshift. However, can I just shift it from D to 2 while > in motion? Yes, generally. Most newer transmissions won't downshift into a gear that'd cause the engine to overrev, no matter where the lever is. Some older ones will... > 4) At redlights, I still find myself putting it in Neutral, because > it doesn't creep forward this way... Bugs the crap out of me when people do this. > 5) Are there any "performance" driving tips for an auto? There's this > one corner which I always took really fast. In my 320is, I do my > braking brfore the corner, downshift and power my way through it... Few manual transmissions are any good about getting you into the gear you want to be in when you want to be there, and most of the ones that are, are in Detroit cars. You will need to be manually downshifting in advance of the corner. Downshifting in corners can be unsettling because you don't necessarily control when the car's going to change gears. John. ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 6 Feb 2000 12:09:55 EST From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [uuc] 318i cylinder head I have a 1984 318i that I believe has blown the head gasket or possibly cracked the head. In anticipation of probably needing a head, does anyone have a rebuilt bead or know where I can locate one? Any leads are appreciated. Thanks, Dennis ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 6 Feb 2000 12:13:34 -0500 From: "tim ng" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] <E30> Audio Upgrade Hi Bob, I have 3 e30s and all of them have some type of up graded stereo from just adding better speakers to full boat 3 amps, 2 crossovers, and 13 speakers. First what is your budget? For the rear shelf speakers, go for a plate speaker setup. I have ADS 300is, they fit perfectly and are one of the best plate speakers avail.$350 when they were new, but there are others like BOston Acoustics that are very good also. The plate speakers usually are 5.25' mid-woofers and one small tweeter so you won't lose any highs. Then I would add a 6 or 8 " Basooka internal amp. subwoofer inside the car on the rear passenger footwell, they fit perfectly and can be removed it 20 sec. if you have people you need to carry on that side of the rear seat. This will give you the bass response need for the deeper punches. I order to get really DEEP DEEP bass, you would need at least 2 8 or 10" subwoofers in a box inside the truck. Even then because the BMW trucks are soooo sealed, the bass would still be not as strong as say in a car with fold down rear seats, lots of amp. wattage is need to make the subwoofer bass get inside the car. I punched out my trucks center armrest pass thru (325IX has a ski sack pass thru) This allows more bass to get insde my car. The front speakers, you must get sperate mid-range and tweeters. A good stereo shop will be able to remove the old tweeters from the mirror pockets and install new ones there. This is the best factory location and can sound VERY good. I use Boston Acoustics in the front and its pretty good. Crutchfields is a good source but you will probably need a local stereo shop to do the front speakers. good luck Tim Ng 91 M3 88 M3 92 325ic M-Tech Date: Sun, 6 Feb 2000 11:07:24 -0500 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] (Bob Fluharty) Subject: [uuc] <E30> Audio Upgrade . >I called Crutchfield and asked for the BMW expert. That turned out to >be the computer on the desk of the guy who had taken the call. The >computer recommended that I replace the 5.25" part of the rear >speakers and disconnect the tweeter. >Possibilities (just looking at the rear speaker aspect): > 1.New factory speakers from dealer (OK, not likely) >2.What Crutchfield said (cheap, easy) >3.Some high-quality 6x9's or 5x7's (some adjustment of rear ledge >panel required, but looks do-able). >I'm looking for some expert opinion and some BTDT recommendations. If >the only significant improvement comes from a whole new system, I > probably won't do anything. It's just not that bad to justify the >expense. But if some top-line rear speakers would make a difference, >I'd do it in a minute. Other suggestions also welcomed. >Hope to hear from those of you who have been through this. >Bob '>87 325is >Cincinnati ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 6 Feb 2000 09:15:09 -0700 From: Pearson-Franks Family <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] <E36>Electrical Gremlins Bimwads: I have several electrical gremlins in my new-to-me '95 M3 (wuwho!, by the way!). I am hoping for some experienced soul to point to a "tighten this ground bolt" sort of fix. Or not, but here goes: 1) The SRS light comes on at times. - It occasionally comes back on a few seconds after it goes off after starting the car. - When it *does* come on in this mode, it usually goes back out after a few minutes. 2) The tumbler spins freely in the cylinder on rare occasion. (turning the key just goes and goes . . . ) The ETM depicts a solenoid engaging the lock mechanism, driven by a black box - I am presuming this is some sort of 'driveaway protection', even though I didn't think the '95's had the full gig. 3) "Check Brake Circuit" comes on from time to time, even though all the brake lamps are lit. I have the factory wing with the brake lights going in it, but the rear window light is off. The bulbs and sockets are new (a useful side-effect of the clear lens trip; but I had the symptom before the swap). 4) Blue lights flash erratically behind the vehicle, cured by the full application of 4th and 5th gears (oops, wrong thread! ;~). Any thoughts or suggestions welcome. Larry F. - -- Pearson-Franks Family Issaquah, Washington ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 06 Feb 2000 11:16:59 -0800 From: Chris Baisley <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [uuc] <E30> Audio Upgrade My experience in two cars to date (including my '89 325i with premium system) is that a better source is the place to start, NOT the speakers. This follows the audiophile dictum of starting at the bottom of the chain to ensure best sound. I found the stock premium speakers to be adequate once I replaced the head unit with a high-power Alpine and ditched the trunk-mounted booster amp altogether. Managed to sell these items for about $160 CDN via the digest too! See my writeup at: http:\\www.infomatch.com\~cbaisley\bmw.htm Aaron has also suggested upgrading the crossover capacitors in the stock speakers to improve performance. His info is at: http://www.civil.ubc.ca/home/bohnen/adventures1.html - -- Christopher P. Baisley, MBA, P.Eng. Vancouver, British Columbia, Canada [EMAIL PROTECTED] (Personal) [EMAIL PROTECTED] (Business) ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 6 Feb 2000 11:21:56 -0800 (PST) From: "K.C. Boyce" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] <E30> paint job (was: more central locking...) Norm asks about the cost of a repaint. Well, I'm assuming that it'd vary depending on where you live. The work I had done was: - - remove trim (I only did minimal work here before I took it in) - - strip the car to bare metal (on the outside only) - - repaint using Glasurit The total came out to ~$3700. My advice would be to look around and get quotes from several different body shops before you lock yourself into anything... KC Boyce '85 325e E30 Eta Page: http://rikki.coloradocollege.edu/~k_boyce __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Talk to your friends online with Yahoo! Messenger. http://im.yahoo.com ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 06 Feb 2000 11:23:46 -0800 From: Jim Powell <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] Shock Mounts Wonder what a torn rear shock mount is on an E36? I made up a webpage with some pictures of mine so people who haven't had the problem can visualize it. http://members.home.com/jsp98m3/shockmounts.html Jim ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 6 Feb 2000 11:25:22 -0800 (PST) From: "K.C. Boyce" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] <E30> audio upgrade Bob asks about upgrading the audio in his E30... I've done some simple upgrades in the past year (new head unit and speakers). The speakers definitely made the biggest difference in audio quality. I got the Kenwood (Model #? -- the 5 1/4" 3-ways). Crutchfield says that they won't fit, but they did -- it's a little tight by the hood release, but function is in no way impaired. They cost something like $80, if I remember correctly... Installation was a snap -- just don't crank down the mounting screws, or you'll warp the grille, making it really difficult to put on. Hope this helps! KC Boyce '85 325e E30 Eta Page: http://rikki.coloradocollege.edu/~k_boyce/ __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Talk to your friends online with Yahoo! Messenger. http://im.yahoo.com ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 6 Feb 2000 14:12:30 -0000 From: "SCOTT AND JULIE" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [uuc] <E36>Electrical Gremlins Here are a few suggestions for your problems, 1. srs light, probably either the steering contact ring or one of the front seat belt locks, you'll need to have someone read out the codes to knwo but those are the most likely reasons. 2. Ign lock spins freely, you are either inserting and turning the key to fast or the lock cylinder is wearing out. 3. brake light circut msg, you have a failing brake light switch. Hope it helps, Scott - -----Original Message----- From: Pearson-Franks Family <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Date: Sunday, February 06, 2000 5:26 PM Subject: [uuc] <E36>Electrical Gremlins >Bimwads: > >I have several electrical gremlins in my new-to-me >'95 M3 (wuwho!, by the way!). I am hoping for some >experienced soul to point to a "tighten this ground >bolt" sort of fix. Or not, but here goes: > >1) The SRS light comes on at times. > - It occasionally comes back on a few seconds after > it goes off after starting the car. > - When it *does* come on in this mode, it usually > goes back out after a few minutes. >2) The tumbler spins freely in the cylinder on rare > occasion. (turning the key just goes and goes . . . ) > The ETM depicts a solenoid engaging the lock mechanism, > driven by a black box - I am presuming this is some sort > of 'driveaway protection', even though I didn't think the > '95's had the full gig. >3) "Check Brake Circuit" comes on from time to time, even > though all the brake lamps are lit. I have the factory > wing with the brake lights going in it, but the rear window > light is off. The bulbs and sockets are new (a useful > side-effect of the clear lens trip; but I had the symptom > before the swap). >4) Blue lights flash erratically behind the vehicle, cured > by the full application of 4th and 5th gears (oops, > wrong thread! ;~). > >Any thoughts or suggestions welcome. Larry F. >-- > >Pearson-Franks Family >Issaquah, Washington > ------------------------------ End of [uucdigest] V3 #204 ************************** _________________________________________ | Please visit these UUC-approved BMW parts vendors/service providers: | (listed alphabetically) | Bonneville Motorwerks . http://www.bonnevillemotorwerks.com | Circle Tire Co. (used & classic BMW parts) e-mail [EMAIL PROTECTED] | Curry's Auto Service . http://www.currysauto.com | Eurosport . http://www.eurosport-hp.com | Koala MotorSport . http://www.koalamotorsport.com | Taylor BMW - http://www.taylorbmw.com - Doc Bimmer! | The Ultimate Garage . http://www.ultimategarage.com | UUC Motorwerks . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com | Zionsville Autosport . http://www.zionsvilleautosport.com ����������������������������������������
