[uucdigest] Sunday, February 6 2000 Volume 03 : Number 203 ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ | For all available Digest commands including unsubscribe/subscribe, | visit the BMW UUC Digest page: http://www.uucdigest.com | Send SUBMISSIONS to [EMAIL PROTECTED] | Complaints? Send 'em to [EMAIL PROTECTED] if you must. | Visit http://www.bubbaclub.com | www.bimmers.com - "serving enthusiasts on the 'net" | Visit http://www.bimmer.org - ultimate BMW bulletin boards! | Subscribe to the Zionsville Autosport Parts Digest: | http://www.zionsvilleautosport.com/majordomo.htm ����������������������������������������� In this BMW UUC Digest: Re: [uuc] FS 1985 K100RT motorcycle [uuc] K9 relay jumper. Whats it for? [uuc] Re: <E30> more central locking... Re: [uuc] <E30> more central locking... [uuc] (no subject) [uuc] Re: <E36> rear springs Re: [uuc] Re: X5s and SUVs Re: [uuc] Re: <E36> rear springs Re: [uuc] Re: <E36> rear springs [uuc] Re: rear springs Re: [uuc] Gymkhana (was E30 seatbelt) [uuc] NY Chapter Beach party...what was the winning raffle ticket no? [uuc] <E30> Audio Upgrade ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Sun, 06 Feb 2000 06:15:36 -0500 From: Grady Moore <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [uuc] FS 1985 K100RT motorcycle If you buy it, I'll fill up the saddlebags(factory BMW of course). At 04:33 AM 2/5/00 -0800, you wrote: >Ya throwing in a case of Jack Daniels with that? > >----- Original Message ----- >From: Grady Moore <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> >To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> >Sent: Wednesday, January 16, 1980 4:39 AM >Subject: [uuc] FS 1985 K100RT motorcycle > > >> For sale: 1985 BMW K100RT--28K miles--excellent condition--new tires and >> brakes--stereo--heated hand grips--tool kit--tire repair kit--etc >> etc--$3500 obo. Bike is located in NE Tennessee. >> >> > > ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 6 Feb 2000 07:26:31 -0500 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] (atchison) Subject: [uuc] K9 relay jumper. Whats it for? To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] (atchison) Subject: K9 relay jumper. Whats it for? My 1985 735i Euro has a jumper in the fuse box where the K9 relay would go. I checked the (US) Electrical Troubleshooting Manual 'ETM' and it doesn't mention the K9 relay. Does anyone know what this does? Does anyone have a copy of a Euro Electrical Troubleshooting Manual for sale? Any help would be appreciated. Thanks ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 6 Feb 2000 08:11:31 EST From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [uuc] Re: <E30> more central locking... In a message dated 2/6/00 2:28:08 AM Eastern Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: << Thanks to all who pointed me to the central locking FAQ, and TIA for all your help with this baffling problem! >> Have you thoroughly inspected all the wires?...especially look at the wires in ther door jams...sometimes they get "pinched"...you could be havimng an intermittent short. Good luck, John Weese BMW CCA #76646 Nittany Bimmers Chapter ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 06 Feb 2000 07:44:13 -0600 From: Dog-n-Hog <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [uuc] <E30> more central locking... KC, I cannot answer all of your questions, but the 85 E30 (the 325e, anyways) does have double locking (mine does, July 85). In order to allow the driver's side to perform the double lock, the actual key requires that it be cut in a certain way to allow access to a special tumbler within the driver's door lock cylinder. The reason I know this is that I took my original "master" key to the dealer to have a replacement made, and he had to "cut" the replacement several times in order to get the double lock mechanism to actually work (all other functions would work). He informed me of the special circumstances under which the double lock keying works. I'd suggest you try your original master key (if you still have it). It sounds to me like the CLCU is on its way out. Open the unit and look for burned components. Mine went out a few years ago, and I found a burned transistor on the PC board. And yes, the entire system is rather confusing in nature. BTW, I am also considering a complete repaint next year. Could you give me an estimate of what it cost you? Did you have any major body work done? I'd like to strip the body myself, and then have the vehicle delivered to the body shop, hopefully saving myself some $$. (Plus, those guys never seem to be able to put things back where they found them). Thanks, Norm "K.C. Boyce" wrote: > > Okay, I got in there today and dug around a bit. What I found > thoroughly confused me... > > Starting on the driver's side: > > Mechanically, the linkage works great. There was a microswitch mounted > near the lock cylinder, but it the lock cylinder never actually touched > the microswitch. I've been under the impression that my E30 (early '85 > build) didn't have double-locking. However, tripping this microswitch > manually definitely double-locked the passenger side door. The lock > cylinder will not rotate 90 degrees though... (FWIW, I had that lock > cylinder replaced about six months ago by a dealer -- did I get screwed > with an old lock cylinder?) Nothing I did apart from tripping the > microswitch could get the doors to power lock/unlock. > > Going over to the passenger's side: > > The linkage is a bit stiff. I may need to replace the lock cylinder. > There's a microswitch there, too. It's supposed to be for unlock, but > I believe that it only actuated when I turned the key towards the > "lock" side. I'll double-check this... Like the driver's side, > nothing I did could get the doors to power lock/unlock. > > Moving to the trunk: > > The only way I could get the passenger's side un-deadbolted was to > unlock through the trunk (w/ the driver's side microswitch > deactivated). Using the trunk lock, I was able to get both the > driver's and passenger's side motors to unlock. They would also try to > lock, but they'd reverse to unlock (like they would if the door wasn't > closed completely). When this happened, the trunk lock would also try > to cycle back to "unlocked". > > As I said, I'm thoroughly confused at this point. The Central Locking > Control Unit should have power, as it's doing something when I actuate > the trunk locks, right? (I haven't tested the pins in the A-pillar, > though I did a visual inspection and they looked pretty good.) Could > both my lock motors be dead? Or the CLCU on its way out? And what's > going on with my double-locking system? > > Thanks to all who pointed me to the central locking FAQ, and TIA for > all your help with this baffling problem! > > KC Boyce > '85 325e --> pretty, but locks ain't working! > E30 Eta Page: http://rikki.coloradocollege.edu/~k_boyce > __________________________________________________ > Do You Yahoo!? > Talk to your friends online with Yahoo! Messenger. > http://im.yahoo.com ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 6 Feb 2000 09:43:13 EST From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [uuc] (no subject) Ok gang, its down to the wire. I must sell the M3 THIS weekend or it goes back to BMW Financial and will end up at some Godawful auction. Here goes. Let's give her a good home! Alpine White over Light Gray 24700miles 5 Speed Leather Heated, power seats CC, OBC, Sunroof Rear wing HK System Dinan Gen III 17x8.5 all around with BRAND NEW AVS Sports (less than 1000mi) Jim C software AA Exhaust Immaculate. Now the kicker.... STEAL IT FOR 34825.04 Located in Charleston, SC Email me and lets talk the details. I will sell the rims/tires and exhaust separate for 1200 and 300 respectively with trade for stock units. Dave Pittman 843-870-1173 ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 06 Feb 2000 06:57:30 -0800 From: Randy Walters <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] Re: <E36> rear springs Mark Terry <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: >Could someone tell me how to remove the rear springs on an e36? Once the >rear shock is removed, the control arm should drop enough so that the >spring is easily removed, not under compression, right? It doesn't seem to. >Does the axle have to be disconnected ? Thanks. If it's like my E30, you probably have to support the diffrential with a floorjack, remove it's rear mounting bolt, then lower it slightly before you can get the springs out. This allows the whole rear subframe assembly to sag slightly downward which in turn drops the trailing arms enough to relieve the tension on the springs. Disconnect your speedo wires from the diff first :-) Mine won't come out unless i do this. Don't let those unrestrained trailing arms drop suddenly or you may damage your CV joints. Also take care not to cross-thread the lower shock bolt when re-installing it - line up the shock carefully then run the bolt in by hand only, then once you're sure it's threading in correctly then you can put your wrench to it. If you mess up the threads in that hole you'll have to replace the trailing arm and that's not so fun. Randy Walters 89 325is L.A. Chapter ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 6 Feb 2000 06:59:00 -0800 (PST) From: Carlos Lopez <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [uuc] Re: X5s and SUVs Kevin Kelly wrote:Subject: John Edward Miller wrote: >The Range Rover is great in the rain (full time 4wd with auto locking >center diff), hauls a lot of stuff (5 full size garbage cans or 4 >mountain bikes with the seats down) is better than any BMW (even and >ix) in the snow Are you iX guys just going to stand there and take that? :-) >Who likes BMWs and SUVs and can't figure out why some BMW owners have a >hard time with someone wanting a 4x4. If you use it the way it was intended to nobody has a problem with it. Heck in my family we have 5, 3 of which are Diesels, a Pathfinder, a LandCruiser, and a Nissan Patrol (none in this country). I've taken the Patrol to places where no car has ever set foot and even got it stuck in the sand once. Good thing it has a winch, and pssst, don't tell my Dad I said that. Carlos 91 M3 no 4X4's here but certainly could appreciate one. __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Talk to your friends online with Yahoo! Messenger. http://im.yahoo.com ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 06 Feb 2000 07:01:29 -0800 From: Jim Powell <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [uuc] Re: <E36> rear springs No. Raise the car and support it on jackstands in the rear at the normal jackpad points. LEAVE THE TIRES ON THE CAR! The weight helps. Remove the lower shock mounting to let the axle sag. Make sure the car is now high enough that the sagging axle can clear the floor by a couple of inches. If you can't pull the spring out now, have a helper push down on the tire while you pull it out. Sometimes it can take a persons full weight. Watch your fingers. Jim Randy Walters wrote: > > Mark Terry <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > > >Could someone tell me how to remove the rear springs on an e36? Once the > >rear shock is removed, the control arm should drop enough so that the > >spring is easily removed, not under compression, right? It doesn't seem to. > >Does the axle have to be disconnected ? Thanks. > > If it's like my E30, you probably have to support the diffrential with > a floorjack, remove it's rear mounting bolt, then lower it slightly > before you can get the springs out. This allows the whole rear subframe > assembly to sag slightly downward which in turn drops the trailing arms > enough to relieve the tension on the springs. Disconnect your speedo > wires from the diff first :-) Mine won't come out unless i do this. > > Don't let those unrestrained trailing arms drop suddenly or you may > damage your CV joints. Also take care not to cross-thread the lower > shock bolt when re-installing it - line up the shock carefully then run > the bolt in by hand only, then once you're sure it's threading in > correctly then you can put your wrench to it. If you mess up > the threads in that hole you'll have to replace the trailing arm > and that's not so fun. > > Randy Walters > 89 325is > L.A. Chapter ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 06 Feb 2000 07:04:29 -0800 From: Jim Powell <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [uuc] Re: <E36> rear springs I meant the sagging TIRE can clear the floor by a couple of inches. Sorry. Jim Jim Powell wrote: > > No. Raise the car and support it on jackstands in the rear at the normal > jackpad points. LEAVE THE TIRES ON THE CAR! The weight helps. > > Remove the lower shock mounting to let the axle sag. > > Make sure the car is now high enough that the sagging axle can clear the > floor by a couple of inches. > > If you can't pull the spring out now, have a helper push down on the > tire while you pull it out. Sometimes it can take a persons full > weight. > > Watch your fingers. > > Jim > > Randy Walters wrote: > > > > Mark Terry <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > > > > >Could someone tell me how to remove the rear springs on an e36? Once the > > >rear shock is removed, the control arm should drop enough so that the > > >spring is easily removed, not under compression, right? It doesn't seem to. > > >Does the axle have to be disconnected ? Thanks. > > > > If it's like my E30, you probably have to support the diffrential with > > a floorjack, remove it's rear mounting bolt, then lower it slightly > > before you can get the springs out. This allows the whole rear subframe > > assembly to sag slightly downward which in turn drops the trailing arms > > enough to relieve the tension on the springs. Disconnect your speedo > > wires from the diff first :-) Mine won't come out unless i do this. > > > > Don't let those unrestrained trailing arms drop suddenly or you may > > damage your CV joints. Also take care not to cross-thread the lower > > shock bolt when re-installing it - line up the shock carefully then run > > the bolt in by hand only, then once you're sure it's threading in > > correctly then you can put your wrench to it. If you mess up > > the threads in that hole you'll have to replace the trailing arm > > and that's not so fun. > > > > Randy Walters > > 89 325is > > L.A. Chapter ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 6 Feb 2000 10:42:03 -0500 From: Neil Maller <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] Re: rear springs On 2/6/00 wrote: >Date: Sat, 5 Feb 2000 23:07:39 -0800 >From: Mark Terry <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > >Could someone tell me how to remove the rear springs on an e36? Once the >rear shock is removed, the control arm should drop enough so that the >spring is easily removed, not under compression, right? It doesn't seem to. >Does the axle have to be disconnected ? Thanks. Mark, No, they do remain under compression. The official way to remove rear springs is to unbolt the lower shock mount and disconnect the driveshaft. The issue is that forcing the control arm down far enough to enable spring removal - a 2 person job BTW - can damage the halfshaft's CV joints. Having said that, I'll confess that I never disconnect the driveshaft myself. Instead I use a large prybar with the lower control arm as fulcrum, and lever against a spring coil to lift the bottom of the spring out of its seat. Support the control arm or the hub with a jack or small jackstand while doing this. Getting aftermarket springs in and out is easier, since they're usually shorter. Neil 96 M3 ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 06 Feb 2000 10:47:17 EST From: "Steven Reed" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [uuc] Gymkhana (was E30 seatbelt) >From: "Lin, Gary" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> >Reply-To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] >To: "'[EMAIL PROTECTED]'" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> >Subject: [uuc] RE: <E30> seatbelt (was another question) >Date: Sat, 5 Feb 2000 19:34:40 -0500 > >Check to see if the belt hasn't flipped over at the very end. At O'fest >'99, I zip tied the belts to stay unreeled for the gymkhana (oh oh, >secret's >out) What's the gymkhana? Steve '87 325iS ______________________________________________________ Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 6 Feb 2000 08:08:51 -0800 (PST) From: Chester Wong <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] NY Chapter Beach party...what was the winning raffle ticket no? Would anyone happen to know the winning raffle ticket no? Or did they keep on drawing until someone present one? Chester ===== __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Talk to your friends online with Yahoo! Messenger. http://im.yahoo.com ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 6 Feb 2000 11:07:24 -0500 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] (Bob Fluharty) Subject: [uuc] <E30> Audio Upgrade Every year at this time I get the urge for an audio upgrade. (In summer, windows & sunroof open - who cares?) I have the E30 "premium" stock system. Even though it seems to have the right goodies (6 speakers, aux amp) it's never been a great-sounding system, and it seems a little worse this winter. By that I mean the sound seems to get thinner - the highs have no pizzazz, the lows no punch. This is especially noticeable at low volume, where, as I get older, I spend most of my time. Cranked up it still ain't half bad - which leads to that early morning startled volume adjustment: "Gawd, did I really have it that loud last night?" But turned low it has that tinny 1963 AM radio sound. My daughter's '86 VW with a $99 Clarion sounds better at low volume. So the question is how and what to upgrade. Speakers are the obvious place to start. I have heard the opinion that BMW systems are non-standard and you can't replace parts without creating compatibility problems; new speakers, for example, even high-quality new speakers, will not mesh with the rest of the system and therefore not produce an improvement. And yet, even though visual inspection shows no tears or other gross deficiencies, it seems my 13-year-old sun-dried rear speakers have got to be the weakest link in my chain. I called Crutchfield and asked for the BMW expert. That turned out to be the computer on the desk of the guy who had taken the call. The computer recommended that I replace the 5.25" part of the rear speakers and disconnect the tweeter. Possibilities (just looking at the rear speaker aspect): 1.New factory speakers from dealer (OK, not likely) 2.What Crutchfield said (cheap, easy) 3.Some high-quality 6x9's or 5x7's (some adjustment of rear ledge panel required, but looks do-able). I'm looking for some expert opinion and some BTDT recommendations. If the only significant improvement comes from a whole new system, I probably won't do anything. It's just not that bad to justify the expense. But if some top-line rear speakers would make a difference, I'd do it in a minute. Other suggestions also welcomed. Hope to hear from those of you who have been through this. Bob '87 325is Cincinnati ------------------------------ End of [uucdigest] V3 #203 ************************** _________________________________________ | Please visit these UUC-approved BMW parts vendors/service providers: | (listed alphabetically) | Bonneville Motorwerks . http://www.bonnevillemotorwerks.com | Circle Tire Co. 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