[uucdigest] Tuesday, February 8 2000 Volume 03 : Number 217 ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ | For all available Digest commands including unsubscribe/subscribe, | visit the BMW UUC Digest page: http://www.uucdigest.com | Send SUBMISSIONS to [EMAIL PROTECTED] | Complaints? Send 'em to [EMAIL PROTECTED] if you must. | Visit http://www.bubbaclub.com | www.bimmers.com - "serving enthusiasts on the 'net" | Visit http://www.bimmer.org - ultimate BMW bulletin boards! | Subscribe to the Zionsville Autosport Parts Digest: | http://www.zionsvilleautosport.com/majordomo.htm ����������������������������������������� In this BMW UUC Digest: [uuc] Re: Dinan chips, automatic virgin [uuc] <uuc> Ellipsoids & Xenon Upgrade [uuc] WANTED: E30 M3 1990-1991 Black or Silver in color. [uuc] <E34> Dead Battery Help [uuc] dynotuning at AutoThority [uuc] Re: Removing wax on black trim pieces. Re: [uuc] <E34> Dead Battery Help [uuc] Found this on another mailing list [uuc] Does the Bentley manual cover... [uuc] RE:Fluke (How to use a multimeter) [uuc] Re: E30: sunroof installation question BA Re: [uuc] <E30> another question [uuc] WTB - 235/40-17 MXX3 RE: [uuc] Bimwad Body Shop in Indianapolis? [uuc] RE: Kalifornia DMV Reg Fee's [uuc] Added suction? RE: [uuc] RE:Fluke (How to use a multimeter) ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Tue, 8 Feb 2000 09:53:41 +1100 From: "Thomas, Andrew j" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] Re: Dinan chips, automatic virgin Alexander ([EMAIL PROTECTED]) writes: > Now that was a funny one Doctor. I agree. Over the weekend, > I took the E28 em five up to redline a copula times and nailed > the rev limiter. I have only had the car for a few months and > have not really nailed it yet. Well, I was surprised to hit the > limiter since the car is supposed to have a Dinan chip in it.... > and I even have the old stock chip still in the Dinan case. So, > the Dinan chips don't eliminate the rev limiter? NO chip eliminates the rev limiter altogether. If this was the case, the tachometer needle would continue to rise until the motor provided its own, one-time mechanical rev limitation (floated valves, thrown rods, that kind of thing). Chips often raise the limit by 200-300 rpm and this is normally within mechanical limits. But as Matthew pointed out, some motors (the sixes and the M42/44, reportedly) are balanced only to 7,000 or so. So while it might look good revving your motor off the last rpm marker at 7,000 and back into the black, it's probably wearing your crank out. And John ([EMAIL PROTECTED]) writes: > The shock-loading on the drivetrain from putting it back into gear > seems to me to overwhelm the benefits of any reduction in heat > generated from idling in neutral. Likewise. Although the main benefits reported are reduced wear and tear through reduced vibration, and fuel economy. Check out www.zf-group.de; ZF's six-speed auto comes with summat called Stand-by Control which disconnects the converter from the power train (as you do in 'N') so that there is only minimal residual load on the drivetrain. This reduces fuel consumption which, remember, the Europeans are extremely happy about. All told, I wouldn't be surprised if this SBC thing is disabled for the US market, although given the amount of time I spend idling whilst driving in traffic-choked cities everywhere, I think it's quite a good idea, if it works. > With a manual gearbag s/gearbox/gearbag :) > you can go for the gas and gear at the same time, with clutch in; > if you try this in a slushbox it goes 'clunk' into gear But bearing in mind the average manual/pedal skills of the average driver, I would say that fast, integrated gear engagement, clutch engagement and throttle application without stalling or racing the engine is beyond the ken of most. Besides, revving an auto then sticking it into gear is, strictly, abusing it. For most, leaving the selector in 'D' usually entails keeping one's foot on the brakes, meaning pads are pressed against nice, hot discs so they warp and crack, lengthening stopping distances. For short, slow-speed stops this is less of a problem, but selecting 'N' and the handbrake is better for long stops particularly where split-second, off-the-line reactions are not required. Andy T "This email is intended only for the use of the individual or entity named above and may contain information that is confidential and privileged. If you are not the intended recipient, you are hereby notified that any dissemination, distribution or copying of this email is strictly prohibited. When addressed to our clients, any opinions or advice contained in this email are subject to the terms and conditions expressed in the governing KPMG client engagement letter. If you have received this email in error, please notify us immediately by return email or telephone +61 2 9335 7000 and destroy the original message. Thank you." ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 8 Feb 2000 02:12:39 -0800 (PST) From: Richard <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] <uuc> Ellipsoids & Xenon Upgrade I'm sure this topic has been beaten to death but I'm still not clear as to the following: 1. How many manufacturers make the Ellipsoid headlights for E36's and how many "versions" of these lights are there? 2. Where to order from? Experiences? Advantages? Pricing? 3. Who makes/sells the best HID upgrade? Phoenix Microlite? Turner (aka Phillips)? Quality? Pricing? AND...does anyone in Northern California have either or both of these upgrades on their 3 Series? I would really like to see this in a real-life application before plunking down $1200 for the ellipsoids/HID. Thanks! Richard C. 1996 M3/2 http://members.xoom.com/E36M3 _______________________________________________________ Get 100% FREE Internet Access powered by Excite Visit http://freeworld.excite.com ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 8 Feb 2000 03:38:03 -0800 From: "Jonathan Reiser" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] WANTED: E30 M3 1990-1991 Black or Silver in color. I am looking to purchase a 1990 or 1991 E30 M3 preferably Black or Silver in decent shape and low mileage. Will only consider one which is stock or has modest modifications and was not a dedicated track car. This would be used as a primary car until I take delivery of an E46. At which time it would become the new money pit hobby car. Anyone who has one and is looking to sell it or knows of one for sale please email me. TIA Jon Reiser [EMAIL PROTECTED] ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 08 Feb 2000 04:22:41 PST From: "RICHARD VAUGHN" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] <E34> Dead Battery Help All, I knew I had a problem this morning when I opened the door to my '92 535i and the interior lights didn't come on. Battery is really dead. Nothing comes on. The battery is only about 6-8 months old, but I did notice yesterday, when leaving work, that it was not turning the starter as fast as it normally did. Obviously, I have an electrical drain some where. Where should I start, besides calling the dealer? TIA, Richard Vaughn BMW CCA "92 535i 5speed 78k ______________________________________________________ Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 8 Feb 2000 07:34:58 -0500 (EST) From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [uuc] dynotuning at AutoThority Well i'm finally gonna get the '88 325iS w/ a korman head, 288 cam, and longtube headers dynotuned. I would have strongly preferred to have Jim C. tune it, but how likely is it to have him fly to northern virginia just to tune my car.. Anyway, i made an appt at autothority to have it tuned later this month. Just wanted to see if anyone has had any experience with their dynotuning, and if i'm 'bending over' with the price. Their price breakdown is: $309 for a standard chip + $100 fee for custom tuning + dyno time @$125/hr (most likely 2hrs), + $40 for some 5 wire o2 sensor they use - $100 for my Dinan chip. So this could easy be over $700 even with my chip credit, $800 w/o. Is this normal? It really seems kinda high to me, but i don't really know anything about tuning BMW's, and from what i've heard, i'm pretty limited as to where i can take it to get it tuned w/o making a LONG roadtrip. TIA for any help :o) jason mccowan ncc ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 08 Feb 2000 04:57:39 PST From: "Chuck Grafton" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] Re: Removing wax on black trim pieces. OK folks, since we're going to explore this thread again, and all the methods are again being listed for the many new folks to this digest, I must add the old standby, peanut butter is so messy, the famous Staedtler Mars Plastic eraser from the Father Land (Germany). These are a white "Gummi" type eraser found at most office supply stores, Staples carries them here in the DC Metro area. They come in a three pack and are usully found in the engineering graphics supply area of the store. They work fantasically, just brush off after use. Chuck '90 ///M3 BMW CCA #6832 NCC ______________________________________________________ Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 8 Feb 2000 08:18:30 -0500 From: "Gary Derian" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [uuc] <E34> Dead Battery Help First charge the battery and get it started. Use a voltmeter to measure battery voltage. You should have 13.8 to 14.2 volts or close to that range. Then begin turning on high power accessories, lights, heater fan, operate a window. With each load, the voltage may drop a bit (few tenths of a volt) but should recover when the load is removed. While several loads are on, and the volts have dropped, revving the engine should bring the volts up. If you get this behavior, the charging system is good and you either have a bad battery or something is on and draining the battery when everything is supposed to be off. Now it gets hard. You can disconnect the battery and place an ammeter between the battery and the cable. There will be some small draw, like 50 mA. If the draw it much higher, start pulling fuses until it stops. Then using the ETM, you can trace the culprit. Gary Derian <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > All, I knew I had a problem this morning when I opened the door to my '92 > 535i and the interior lights didn't come on. Battery is really dead. Nothing > comes on. The battery is only about 6-8 months old, but I did notice > yesterday, when leaving work, that it was not turning the starter as fast as > it normally did. Obviously, I have an electrical drain some where. Where > should I start, besides calling the dealer? > > TIA, Richard Vaughn BMW CCA > "92 535i 5speed 78k > ______________________________________________________ > Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 08 Feb 2000 08:26:51 -0500 From: "David Larocque - ColorImage" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] Found this on another mailing list http://www.tconl.com/~hartman/speedo01.html David Larocque ColorImage Canada Inc 416-955-9636 x 736 [EMAIL PROTECTED] ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 08 Feb 2000 08:44:37 -0500 From: Patrick Burns <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] Does the Bentley manual cover... There's no double clutching my way past this one. It's time to pull the tranny out of the '86 528e. Does the Bentley E28 manual cover rebuilding the 5 speed tranny? Who's the best source for synchro rings, bearings, and seals? Have any of you tackled this, or have all the BMW techs fled the list? <g> All replies welcome. Patrick Burns [EMAIL PROTECTED] ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 8 Feb 2000 09:27:41 -0500 From: "George, Zachariah (CICG Development)" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] RE:Fluke (How to use a multimeter) "Good" is an understatement. I believe Flukes are the best in the business Should we say, the "Conforti of multimeteres"? Zach '94 325i w/sport pkg 5-spd. Sharked. > ------------------------------ > > Date: Mon, 7 Feb 2000 14:09:07 -0500 > From: "Binder, Larry - Paoli" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > Subject: RE: [uuc] how to use multimeter > > A company by the name of "Fluke" makes a good multimeter. > I've had the same > one for about 6 years now without any problems. > > Larry > 97 318i ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 8 Feb 2000 09:30:53 -0500 From: "Brett Anderson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] Re: E30: sunroof installation question BA Chuck, you need the roof to be in the fully closed position. Brett Anderson www.koalamotorsport.com Home of the E30 M3 CD-ROM repair manual > From: "Chuck MacWilliam" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > Subject: [uuc] E30: sunroof installation question > > Hi folks, > I'm reinstalling my sunroof after having the car painted and I'm having a > hard time understanding the directions in my Bentley. It says to adjust the > sunroof so that it's tilted up in the rear 1mm above the roof and tilted > down in the front 1mm below the roof line. My question is: is this done > with the controls in the fully-closed position? Or do I use the controls to > get the 1mm differential with the allen wrenches in the slots? Any help is > greatly appreciated. TIA. > > Chuck MacWilliam > '92 525i; '85 325e; '90 Chevy Silverado ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 08 Feb 2000 09:26:07 -0500 From: Eurowerks <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [uuc] <E30> another question K.C. Your safety is not worth a temporary fix. Take the time to order a new or a guaranted good used seatbelt assembly. Normally, when they don't want to retract anymore, the seatbelt is bad..... "K.C. Boyce" wrote: > The driver's side seatbelt has become loath to retract on my car > recently. What can I do to help it along (other than replacing the > reel)? > - -- Kirk A. Gilchrist EURO-WERKS / Mercedes Benz, BMW, Volvo Service and Repair 8 South Highland St. / Winchester, KY 40391 / 606-745-0125 [EMAIL PROTECTED] / www.euromajic.com ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 08 Feb 2000 09:25:39 -0500 From: Rich Beebe <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] WTB - 235/40-17 MXX3 subject says it all. i'm looking for a very good condition MXX3 in 235/40-17. local would be preferred, but i will pay to have it shipped. thanks. rich beebe ncc baltimore, md [EMAIL PROTECTED] ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 8 Feb 2000 08:42:25 -0500 From: "Cagann, Alexander" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: RE: [uuc] Bimwad Body Shop in Indianapolis? > My car was no showpiece. The front end had been long damaged > before I got > it and the repair job was no prize. The paint on the > front-end sheetmetal > was badly checked and stone-chipped, and poorly repaired. > Assuming the car > is NOT totaled, is there a reasonable, reliable, competent > body shop in > Indianapolis that I should have handle the job? > > > Karl Zemlin Karl, I live in Indy too. I have had much experience with the Tin Ranch. Talk with Bill Dougherty and tell him I sent ya....he may remember me, may not...he talks to a lot of people. He fixed my dad's old 95 M3 when I ran it into a fence post and through a front yard. Work was superb. He fixed my old 87 535is when my friend dumped his SUV into the rear quarter. He fixed my friends 85 635csi when a ladder fell on the hood, windshield, and top. Absolutely flawless work, you could never tell he was there. This place can paint, and I mean PAINT! They are located way up on the northside of town in Westfield. Number is 896-2464. I am planning on taking my 88M5 there soon to have the hood painted. Alex Cagann ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 8 Feb 2000 09:42:32 -0500 From: "George, Zachariah (CICG Development)" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] RE: Kalifornia DMV Reg Fee's Gosh! What country is this in? :) Zach > > ------------------------------ > > Date: Mon, 7 Feb 2000 16:43:31 EST > Subject: [uuc] Re: California DMV Reg Fee's > > Jonathan Reiser Wrote: > > << The luxury tax concept is right on par with the California > DMV who charges > registration fees directly based on the value of your > car.... to renew my > 1997 328ic in 1998 it cost me $920.00....... To renew it for > 1999 it was > $650.00... >> > > ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 08 Feb 2000 09:45:00 -0500 From: Chris Whitney <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] Added suction? Steve said: >Due to the new head (<10k) creating added suction in the top end of my '87 >325iS' motor, "oil starvation" was created in the short block. extended snippage... I have to admit this is a new one on me. No aspersions on you Steve, but I think this is a line fed to you by someone questionable. I can't see how a new head would affect oil flow in the block. Anyone? Rgds, Chris Whitney '88 535i ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 8 Feb 2000 09:47:27 -0500 From: "Binder, Larry - Paoli" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: RE: [uuc] RE:Fluke (How to use a multimeter) I sincerely apoligize to everyone for not giving the fluke multimeters all of the credit that was due to them. I was not aware that so many people on the list liked them so much. I retract my statement that they are a "good" multimeter and would like to replace it with this one. "They are the greatest multimeter that I have ever used, I do not know how I would ever make it through life without it. Anything good that has ever happened to me, I'm sure was a direct result of owning a Fluke. " Larry 97 318i Mech Designer/Draftsman Synthes Spine ************************************************************************* The opinions and statements expressed above are mine, and do not reflect that of my employer. ************************************************************************* > -----Original Message----- > From: George, Zachariah (CICG Development) [SMTP:[EMAIL PROTECTED]] > Sent: Tuesday, February 08, 2000 9:28 AM > To: '[EMAIL PROTECTED]' > Subject: [uuc] RE:Fluke (How to use a multimeter) > > "Good" is an understatement. > I believe Flukes are the best in the business > Should we say, the "Conforti of multimeteres"? > > Zach > '94 325i w/sport pkg 5-spd. Sharked. > > ------------------------------ > > > > Date: Mon, 7 Feb 2000 14:09:07 -0500 > > From: "Binder, Larry - Paoli" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > > Subject: RE: [uuc] how to use multimeter > > > > A company by the name of "Fluke" makes a good multimeter. > > I've had the same > > one for about 6 years now without any problems. > > > > Larry > > 97 318i ------------------------------ End of [uucdigest] V3 #217 ************************** _________________________________________ | Please visit these UUC-approved BMW parts vendors/service providers: | (listed alphabetically) | Bonneville Motorwerks . http://www.bonnevillemotorwerks.com | Circle Tire Co. 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