[uucdigest]         Tuesday, February 8 2000         Volume 03 : Number 219



~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
| For all available Digest commands including unsubscribe/subscribe,
| visit the BMW UUC Digest page: http://www.uucdigest.com
| Send SUBMISSIONS to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
| Complaints?  Send 'em to [EMAIL PROTECTED] if you must.
| Visit http://www.bubbaclub.com
| www.bimmers.com - "serving enthusiasts on the 'net"
| Visit http://www.bimmer.org - ultimate BMW bulletin boards!
| Subscribe to the Zionsville Autosport Parts Digest:
|   http://www.zionsvilleautosport.com/majordomo.htm
�����������������������������������������
In this BMW UUC Digest:

       [uuc] <ALL> Looking for Pete McHenry
       [uuc] Roast crack bearings
       [uuc] [E30] check engine code question
       [uuc] Re: <E30> clear blinkers
       [uuc] Re: FUEL PUMP-HELP!
       [uuc] [E30] ellipsoid retrofit questions
       [uuc] Re: dynotuning at autothority
       [uuc] V1 w/remote for sale
       RE: [uuc] [E30] ellipsoid retrofit questions
       [uuc] E30 License plate lights
       RE: [uuc] [E30] ellipsoid retrofit questions
       RE: [uuc] Re: FUEL PUMP-HELP!
       [uuc] cd and alarm
       [uuc] <E30> Audio Upgrade
       [uuc] <E30> Control Arm Replacement
       [uuc] E36 Cabrio Hardtop Adjustment
       [uuc] <m30> motor cuts out - fixed!

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Tue, 8 Feb 2000 12:33:37 -0500 
From: "Money, Jack (J.J.)" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [uuc] <ALL> Looking for Pete McHenry

Everyone,

I'm trying to get a hold of Pete McHenry...anyone know where I can find
him...a number or something?  Thanks greatly!

Regards,

Jack Money
Motor City Chapter
iX Registry
'89 iX ----> Sharked!
E30 M3 ----> WTB http://skumwerks.net/e30m3.htm
mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] or reply
http://skumwerks.net

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 8 Feb 2000 12:34:25 -0500
From: "Rob Levinson - UUC Motorwerks" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [uuc] Roast crack bearings

"Roast crack bearings" sounds like Xmas at a performance shop run by
junkies.

Sing with me and Bing Crosby: "Roast crack bearings on an open bong... vice
squad knockng at your door..."

;-)

- - Rob

- ----- Original Message -----
From: John Van Houten <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

> I had two friends roast crack bearings in M20 motors at the track last
year.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 8 Feb 2000 12:47:32 -0500 
From: "Pharr, Jeff" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [uuc] [E30] check engine code question

I just got a check engine code of 1222 from my '89 iX.  The info I have says
that this is the Lambda Control 1.  This is emissions related, I assume, but
what the heck is it?  Last month I got a code of 1221, replaced the O2
sensor and the problem went away.  

The SO seems to think that the check engine light only comes on when the car
is idling.  And while I was retrieving the code this morning I noticed that
the idle might be a bit rough.  Any thoughts?

- --Jeff

------------------------------

Date: Tue, Feb 8 2000 13:01:35 GMT-0500
From: Ken W <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [uuc] Re: <E30> clear blinkers

[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> In a recent issue of BMW Car, a British mag, there's a 
> picture of an E30 convertible with clear front blinkers.
> It doesn't show the back, but the front looks very nice.
> I was wondering if anyone on this list knows where to 
> find these, and if they sell matching lenses for the rear.

First you need to ask yourself if you mind using parts that were never stock on BMWs.  
The German E36's came with clear lenses, but E30's never did.  If you don't mind, then 
you will obviously have to go aftermarket.  Turner Motorsport sells these.


- -Ken
'91 M3
'86 GTI

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 8 Feb 2000 09:47:00 -0800
From: "Scott D Miller" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [uuc] Re: FUEL PUMP-HELP!

Hi Mike, I don't know where you're located, but I bought my fuel pump from
Double 02 Salvage in Hayward, CA.,  (510) 782-2002.  (No affiliation)

FWIW, you can get the pump 2 ways, pump only or pump assembly.  The pump
alone is cheaper (about $30 less, if I recall), but it requires that you
take apart the assembly and unsolder the pump wires.  Then you put the new
pump in and put everything back together, and solder up the new wires to
the old connections.  It only takes a few minutes to do this, but if you're
in a hurry, you can just buy the assembly.

As always, proceed with caution, you'll have a big open hole in the top of
your fuel tank after you remove the pump/sender assembly.  Make sure you
have ventilation and aren't smoking anything during the operation.  Access
is through a cover in the floor under the rear seat.

The funny thing is, I bought the pump to keep as a spare in the car.  No
one had told me about the difference between the pump-only and the
assembly.  When the pump finally failed, I discovered the difference.
Fortunately, it failed close to home, so after a quick tow, I was able to
fix it.  If this had happened on the road, I would have been up the
proverbial creek, since I don't carry a portable soldering iron in my car.

HTH,

Scott Miller
GGC BMW CCA #44977
1990 325i/isH

>Date: Mon, 7 Feb 2000 14:59:01 -0800 (PST)
>From: Mike Troiano <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>Subject: [uuc] FUEL PUMP-HELP!
>
>Hey everyone, well my 91' 318is wont start. We have
>tested the fuses and the relays for the fuel pump and
>they check out good.  Also replaced the fuel pressure
>regulator and it still wont start. Disconnected the
>fuel line into the fuel rail and no squirts.  Need a
>little help here!  1. Does anyone know where I can get
>a factory fuel pump at a good price 2. Should I use a
>different model fuel pump for better performance or
>longer life? 3. Does anyone make a high performance
>fuel pump.  Any help would be great! Thanks again.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 8 Feb 2000 12:49:45 -0500 (EST)
From: Kevin Henry <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [uuc] [E30] ellipsoid retrofit questions

I am in the process of retrofitting the ellipsoid lights into my '90 325i.
The lights are in and working, except when I turn on the high beams, the
low beams go out.  As far as I can tell, in 88/89 the low beam relay was
different, but I can't plug that relay into my car b/c the fuse box won't
accept it (it has 5 prongs versus 4 for my current relay)  Anyone else who
has done this retrofit run into this problem?  The wires are correct
(matching the colors), but in '90, there was a jumper wired from the high
to a third prong on the low beam, which is not there on the ellipsoid.
Thanks.

- -Kevin
'90 325i << sort of working ellipsoids
NCC

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 8 Feb 2000 12:52:51 -0500 (EST)
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: [uuc] Re: dynotuning at autothority

oops.  in my haste to get an early-morning post out, i incorrectly added the tuning 
prices given to me by autothority.  they should be about $100 lower :-o  oh well, that 
definitely explains why i'm not a math major!  On another note, if anyone would be 
interested in having Jim C. tune their car, let me know asap!  If i can get a few more 
people to get theirs tuned, he said he would come out here (northern virginia).  
Otherwise it's off to autothority!

jason mccowan
ncc

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 08 Feb 2000 12:54:31 EST
From: "Chris Timmons" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [uuc] V1 w/remote for sale

Long story made short: I have a 2 week old V1 with concealed display for 
sale.  Have original box, packing slip, all packaging, cords, etc.

Best offer.

Thanks,
Chris
BMWCCA 157286

______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 8 Feb 2000 09:58:19 -0800
From: "John Coffin" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: RE: [uuc] [E30] ellipsoid retrofit questions

I modified my relay when I switch to ellipsoid headlights.  I soldered a wire
across two of the pins so the low beam stay on.  I'll pull the relay at lunch
(in Calif.) and post the pins to cross if you're interested.

- -John
84 318i


- -----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Kevin Henry
Sent: Tuesday, February 08, 2000 9:50 AM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: [uuc] [E30] ellipsoid retrofit questions



I am in the process of retrofitting the ellipsoid lights into my '90 325i.
The lights are in and working, except when I turn on the high beams, the
low beams go out.  As far as I can tell, in 88/89 the low beam relay was
different, but I can't plug that relay into my car b/c the fuse box won't
accept it (it has 5 prongs versus 4 for my current relay)  Anyone else who
has done this retrofit run into this problem?  The wires are correct
(matching the colors), but in '90, there was a jumper wired from the high
to a third prong on the low beam, which is not there on the ellipsoid.
Thanks.

- -Kevin
'90 325i << sort of working ellipsoids
NCC

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 8 Feb 2000 12:57:56 -0500 
From: "Olsen, Mike (Morse TEC Ithaca)" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [uuc] E30 License plate lights

Hi all,

I have two E30's driven year-round and have seen many others that are
rotting out around the license plate lights on the rear of the car.  I'm
hoping to have both cars painted this summer (dreaming about is more like
it), and am wondering if there's a way to prevent this from recurring.  Any
good tricks out there to help seal better around those rubber gaskets
without making it impossible to replace bulbs, or would I be better to look
at filling in the holes and finding a light that could be integrated into a
license plate bracket or something?  I'd like to stick with the stock design
if I could make it work...

Thanks,
- -Mike Olsen
'88 ///M3
'88 325iC

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 8 Feb 2000 13:06:07 -0500 
From: "Binder, Larry - Paoli" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: RE: [uuc] [E30] ellipsoid retrofit questions

My stock low beams go out when the high beams are on.  That is what they are
supposed to do, right?  Is there a way to make them both be on at the same
time?

Larry
97 318i

Mech Designer/Draftsman
Synthes Spine

*************************************************************************
The opinions and statements expressed above are mine, and do not reflect
that of my employer.
*************************************************************************

> -----Original Message-----
> From: Kevin Henry [SMTP:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]
> Sent: Tuesday, February 08, 2000 12:50 PM
> To:   [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Subject:      [uuc] [E30] ellipsoid retrofit questions
> 
> 
> I am in the process of retrofitting the ellipsoid lights into my '90 325i.
> The lights are in and working, except when I turn on the high beams, the
> low beams go out.  As far as I can tell, in 88/89 the low beam relay was
> different, but I can't plug that relay into my car b/c the fuse box won't
> accept it (it has 5 prongs versus 4 for my current relay)  Anyone else who
> has done this retrofit run into this problem?  The wires are correct
> (matching the colors), but in '90, there was a jumper wired from the high
> to a third prong on the low beam, which is not there on the ellipsoid.
> Thanks.
> 
> -Kevin
> '90 325i << sort of working ellipsoids
> NCC

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 8 Feb 2000 13:09:40 -0500 
From: "Cagann, Alexander" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: RE: [uuc] Re: FUEL PUMP-HELP!

> As always, proceed with caution, you'll have a big open hole 
> in the top of
> your fuel tank after you remove the pump/sender assembly.  
> Make sure you
> have ventilation and aren't smoking anything during the 
> operation. 

This includes crack bearings!  

Alex Cagann

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 8 Feb 2000 13:16:11 -0500 
From: "Binder, Larry - Paoli" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [uuc] cd and alarm

I am ordering a CD changer and alarm today, i figured that I'll ask this
question one more time before I do it.  Is there anywhere that I can get a
better deal than this:
cd changer 459.00
install kit 89.00
Alarm 299.00
total with shipping
857.60

TIA

Larry
97 318i

Mech Designer/Draftsman
Synthes Spine

*************************************************************************
The opinions and statements expressed above are mine, and do not reflect
that of my employer.
*************************************************************************

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 8 Feb 2000 13:19:13 -0500
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] (Bob Fluharty)
Subject: [uuc] <E30> Audio Upgrade

     Many thanks to Steve Reed, Chris Baisley, Malcomb Nunes, Jim Powell, 
     Tim Ng, and KC Boyce, all of whom contributed solid and useful 
     information to my quest for improved audio. The Digest proves its 
     value, despite occasional excursions into farce and absurdity.
     
     The issue of the worth of speaker-only upgrades remains unresolved. 
     Some say the head unit needs to go for any significant gain, but 
     others have replaced only the speakers and been happy with the 
     results.
     
     I have decided to replace the rear speakers for now. They are the 
     weakest element in my setup, and if I do the head unit next, I won't 
     regret having upgraded the rear speakers.
     
     I'll issue a final report upon completion. Thanks again.
     
     Bob
     '87 325is
     Cincinnati

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 8 Feb 2000 13:42:00 -0500 
From: dstevenson <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [uuc] <E30> Control Arm Replacement

Hi

I want to tackle the control arm replacement job on my 1987 325IS. I know
the bushings themselves need to be pressed in by a shop (easiest way) and
need to be preloaded with the cars weight before tightening.

I am looking for some tips on removing the arms themselves. I have removed
things like tie rod ball joints with a fork etc, so I know basically what is
going on.

The balljoint of the control arm that is up in the subframe crossmember
looks hard to get at. Any tips on accessing this? Also these old arms in
question have 155K on them. Will I be able to get them out with one of my
ball joint forks and a 5LB hand sledge?

Any tips would be appreciated.

  ______
o/______\o             
(Oo=00=oO)                                      
[]=****=[]                                      
 
Thanks                                        

Don Stevenson/BMWCCA Boston Chapter 

1988 325IS, (too much to list), should have stayed the street car. (Sharked)

1987 325IS, project, should have been the track car. (Sharked)

1988 Volvo 240 Wagon 5 Speed. (Green Wheels)


This message is intended for the addressee only and may contain privileged
or confidential information. Unless you are the intended recipient, you may
not use, copy or disclose to anyone any information contained in this
message. If you have received this message in error, please notify the
author by replying to this message and then kindly delete the message. Thank
you.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 8 Feb 2000 10:11:58 -0800 (PST)
From: "Fred M." <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [uuc] E36 Cabrio Hardtop Adjustment

Hello All,

Does anyone have the instructions for fitment/
adjustment for a hardtop on an E36 cabrio? I want to
ensure mine is fitted correctly and don't have any
instructions. It rattles when going over large bumps.

Best,
Fred M.
'94 325iC (in winter mode with hardtop)
ERT SC, BL/SS/ERK, ///M Technic, Bilsteins, H&Rs, etc.
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Talk to your friends online with Yahoo! Messenger.
http://im.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 8 Feb 2000 11:39:32 -0800 (PST)
From: John Bolhuis <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [uuc] <m30> motor cuts out - fixed!

 You may recall my plea for wisdom on the cutting-out big six.  We
seem to have it licked now.  New main & fuel pump relays didn't do the
trick, all connectors were clean, ground points were checked, fuses
were replaced, harness wiggling didn't reveal broken wires.  (This was
not a fuel problem, as the tachometer nosedived when the engine
stumbled, even while coasting in gear.) 
 The speed & position sensors were dirty, so I cleaned them.  I also
checked them with my meter and they measured OK.  But after swapping
the sensors around, the problem seemed to switch from not running well
to not starting well.  hmmm.  So the local shop popped in a pair of
new sensors and all seems well!

- --
  John Bolhuis  | "In America it is not considered to be mentally ill
 bolhuijo       | when a woman advances on her prey in a discotheque
  @bolhuijo.com | setting with hardy cocktails present."
                |                                      -Madonna

------------------------------

End of [uucdigest] V3 #219
**************************

_________________________________________
| Please visit these UUC-approved BMW parts vendors/service providers:
| (listed alphabetically)
| Bonneville Motorwerks . http://www.bonnevillemotorwerks.com
| Circle Tire Co. (used & classic BMW parts) e-mail [EMAIL PROTECTED]
| Curry's Auto Service .  http://www.currysauto.com
| Eurosport . http://www.eurosport-hp.com
| Koala MotorSport . http://www.koalamotorsport.com
| Taylor BMW - http://www.taylorbmw.com - Doc Bimmer!
| The Ultimate Garage . http://www.ultimategarage.com
| UUC Motorwerks . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com
| Zionsville Autosport . http://www.zionsvilleautosport.com
����������������������������������������

Reply via email to