[uucdigest]         Tuesday, February 8 2000         Volume 03 : Number 220



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In this BMW UUC Digest:

       [uuc] Basic physics question
       [uuc] E28 no power
       Re: [uuc] Re: dynotuning at autothority
       Re: [uuc] Re: dynotuning at autothority
       [uuc] Added a self dimming rear view mirror
       RE: [uuc] <E30> Control Arm Replacement
       [uuc] 535 prob
       [uuc] Suspension Advice
       Re: [uuc] Basic physics question
       [uuc] Re: <ALL> Looking for Pete McHenry
       RE: [uuc] <m30> motor cuts out - fixed!
       Re: [uuc] Suspension Advice
       [uuc] Stone chips (was: I'm liking Chester more and more..)
       [uuc] <WOB>...Stories...
       [uuc] Re:Roast crack bearings WOB
       [uuc] <E30> Control Arm Stuff

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Tue, 08 Feb 2000 11:00:38 -0800
From: Aaron De Clerck <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [uuc] Basic physics question

I'm driving a '76 2002.  Stock shocks, springs, etc., in good condition.

I just went from the stock 13"x5" steel wheels to wider, but much lighter
13"x5.5" Cosmic aluminum alloys.  The same 185/70 13 tires were moved from
the steelies to the alloys.

My question:  The steering has improved noticeably, but the ride is also
much rougher.  Do lighter wheels always translate to a rougher/noisier
ride, and why?

Or (more likely) is the greater width to blame?  I like the way it
feels...I just want to know *why*.

It's a theoretical question, really...feel free to point me away from the
digest and toward a suspension dynamics coursebook.

- -Aaron
'76 '02--skinny tires all around.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 8 Feb 2000 14:50:59 -0500 
From: "Phemister, George" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [uuc] E28 no power

<<<<<<Pharr, Jeff"  reports
Subject: [uuc] [E28] Follow up to my 535 'no power' problem.
......................Several folks made a good case for the
in-tank fuel pump being the culprit.  Maybe I still have an intermittent
problem with that pump?>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

Or a permanent problem. Are you sure it's working at all? And the filter?
You may want to get the pressure tested - pretty quick and simple.

George

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 8 Feb 2000 15:06:32 -0500
From: "James Sheridan-Peters" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [uuc] Re: dynotuning at autothority

> oops.  in my haste to get an early-morning post out, i incorrectly
added the tuning prices given to me by autothority.  they should be
about $100 lower :-o  oh well, that definitely explains why i'm not a
math major!  On another note, if anyone would be interested in having
Jim C. tune their car, let me know asap!  If i can get a few more people
to get theirs tuned, he said he would come out here (northern virginia).
Otherwise it's off to autothority!

Jason,

JimC has been telling me for months now (literally) that he's coming out
to ERT to do a tuning day.  I was supposed to be the one to arrange the
cars he wants/needs to dyno and he'd come in and make chips for them.
His responsiveness has been less than stellar.

I really don't care now what happens.  I want a chip for the E36 323 and
if it's at Authothority instead of at ERT, so be it.  If JimC organizes
it himself or you do or someone else does, fine.  Feel free to let him
know you've got another interested individual and I'll email him yet
again to see what the hell is up now.

Sorry if this comes off angry.  It's not directed at you, honest.  JimC
is a god in his own mind and it makes dealing with him difficult at
times.  If he didn't do good work I'm sure he'd have a busted nose 10 or
15 times by now :)

- --
James Sheridan-Peters
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
'98 323is National Capital Chapter
'85 RX-7 GSL #00

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 8 Feb 2000 15:16:56 -0500
From: "James Sheridan-Peters" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [uuc] Re: dynotuning at autothority

If I had two brain cells to rub together, enough sleep the last 5 days,
and a better day at work I wouldn't have written any of that and sure as
hell wouldn't have posted it instead of sending it to the list.  My
appologies.  I'm going home to sleep.

- --
James Sheridan-Peters
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
'98 323is National Capital Chapter
'85 RX-7 GSL #00

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 8 Feb 2000 15:16:30 -0500
From: "Pat Donahue" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [uuc] Added a self dimming rear view mirror

Well, I threatened to tell you guys whether you wanted me to or not so here
it is.

This past weekend I got around to installing my aftermarket self dimming
mirror (see http://www.mitocorp.com/nvsmirro.htm for the one I found).  The
one I chose also gave me an outside temp reading as well as a compass
heading.  The compass heading is only two characters so you get N, NE, E,
SE, S... you get the picture, nothing quite as useful as the heading in
degrees or even the fancier ENE etc.

I did this in my Ford truck so mounting was simple.  The Ford uses a
standard glue on mount on the glass that this mirror clips right onto.  I
don't think there're any Bimmers using this technique but I've been wrong
before; at any rate pretty much any glass shop could add one for a couple of
bucks.

Wiring isn't too complex either.  It wants to be hooked into something
that's hot when the ignition is on so you sunroof folks have it made there.
It also wants a good ground (glass don't cut it!), a connection to your
backup lamps so it can go clear if you're trying to use it for backing, and
the temp probe which has to go out on the front of your car somewhere.  The
compass unit is in the mirror base which will already be mounted nice and
firm to your windshield.

When you first get it powered up you need to tell it what region of the
country you're in because true North and magnetic North vary.

How's it work?  Pretty nice!  You get a kinda greenish hue to everything at
night in the mirror but that's okay with me.  There's also a little bluish
neon readout of the compass heading or the temp (or you can turn it out) in
the upper right hand corner of the mirror.  There's even a way to tell it
not to dim if you want, but this is the ticket at night.  If there's a car
back there close enough to trip the mirror it would be annoying if it
weren't dimmed, and if there's not it goes back to clear so you can watch
your 6 for ..um.. unwanted attention from behind.

I don't know how this compares in size to the one in the Z3 but if I think
about it I'll check it against my neighbor's car.

Geeeze
'99 F250PSDSDSCLB4x4OR <-- decipher that!

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 8 Feb 2000 15:28:14 -0500 
From: "Money, Jack (J.J.)" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: RE: [uuc] <E30> Control Arm Replacement

Don,

<<I want to tackle the control arm replacement job on my 1987 325IS.>>

Check out my website...it has control arm replacement on Neil's iC...all
things should be the same.  Email either of us if you have any questions.
Have fun!

Regards,

Jack Money
Motor City Chapter
iX Registry
'89 iX ----> Sharked!
E30 M3 ----> WTB http://skumwerks.net/e30m3.htm
mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] or reply
http://skumwerks.net

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 8 Feb 2000 15:45:06 EST
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: [uuc] 535 prob

Hey Jeff-- Had a very similar problem with my 89 535 (120k).  Loss of power 
(exactly as you say, when a load was put on--sometimes inconveniently in the 
middle of a turn after a light), a few minutes of a hellishly non reactive 
tach, then all OK--for a while.  Usually this would show up for a few days, 
disappear for a month of two, then recur--and I'd start thinking about 
(curses!) getting rid of the car.

Interestingly, I also had a loose vac hose,  and reattaching it made me feel 
better, though it didn't help much.

What did help--after the suggestions here of Fletch and the august John 
Burns--was to replace the plugs, wires, cap and rotor.  This was over six 
months ago, and the problem has not recurred.  If you haven't performed the 
replacement of all these components, it would seem this is the way to go.

Blake
89 535
93 525

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 8 Feb 2000 13:00:51 -0800
From: "Joe H. Harrison" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [uuc] Suspension Advice

Hello fellow digesters.  The time is quickly coming for me to upgrade my
suspension.  I would love to hear your advice.  Thanks in advance for your
input.

I drive a '99 M3.  I have
replaced the stock 7x16 rims with 7.5x17 M Contours shod with 225/45/17 MXX3
Pilots.  The car is definitely over-tire'd as it is.  The extra grip of the
Pilots, the additional amount of rubber on the road and the heavier wheels
are making the stock suspension look bad when driving hard over
less-than-perfect roads.

I use the car strictly as a weekend toy.  I drive from my home to a some
extremely tight (mainly 1st & 2nd gear corners) twisty mountain roads here
in the S.F. area and back home again.  No commuting and very infrequent road
trips.  Therefore, I'm not so concerned about how rough the ride is.  My
overriding concern is handling, especially handling on slightly bumping
roads.  I also plan on doing as many CCA Driving Schools as I can get into.
(Going to the one at Sears Point next weekend!!!!)

My choice at the moment is:

- - - H&R Street Performance Springs  (are H&R Race Springs too much for
highly
aggressive street driving?)
- - - Bilstein Monotube Sports (I've been told to cut the internal bump stop
on
these in half. Is that correct? Can I do this myself w/ ordinary tools?
Anyone prefer Koni's?)
- - - Install E30 Convertible upper shock mounts in back

Any different recommendations for equipment above?  Are there any other
things I should do while I'm in there?

Again, thanks for the advice.

Joe
99 M3

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 8 Feb 2000 15:28:37 -0500
From: "Gary Derian" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [uuc] Basic physics question

Wider rims do stiffen the tire sidewalls.  The difference between 5 and 5.5
should be small but noticeable.  Did the tire pressure change?  That would
also account for better steering and a rougher ride.

Gary Derian <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

> I'm driving a '76 2002.  Stock shocks, springs, etc., in good condition.
>
> I just went from the stock 13"x5" steel wheels to wider, but much lighter
> 13"x5.5" Cosmic aluminum alloys.  The same 185/70 13 tires were moved from
> the steelies to the alloys.
>
> My question:  The steering has improved noticeably, but the ride is also
> much rougher.  Do lighter wheels always translate to a rougher/noisier
> ride, and why?
>
> Or (more likely) is the greater width to blame?  I like the way it
> feels...I just want to know *why*.
>
> It's a theoretical question, really...feel free to point me away from the
> digest and toward a suspension dynamics coursebook.
>
> -Aaron
> '76 '02--skinny tires all around.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 08 Feb 2000 16:04:58 -0500
From: Charlie Grafton <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [uuc] Re: <ALL> Looking for Pete McHenry

Pete's business number is (336)761-0643 Standard 9-5 hours.

Charlie Grafton
'89 325is
BMWCCA #160735

Jack Money wrote:
Everyone,

I'm trying to get a hold of Pete McHenry...anyone know where I can find
him...a number or something?  Thanks greatly!

Regards,

Jack Money
Motor City Chapter
iX Registry
'89 iX ----> Sharked!
E30 M3 ----> WTB http://skumwerks.net/e30m3.htm
mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] or reply
http://skumwerks.net

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 8 Feb 2000 16:16:05 -0500 
From: "Cagann, Alexander" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: RE: [uuc] <m30> motor cuts out - fixed!

Another thing to think about when an engine cuts-out or stalls is the sensor
on the flywheel.  These are known to be weak.  When my mechanic replaced the
clutch in my old 87 535is he said the flywheel sensor (sends a signal to the
DME) was hanging on by a thread and he welded it back on.  

Alex Cagann
88///M5

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 8 Feb 2000 15:27:01 -0600
From: "John F Stoj" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [uuc] Suspension Advice

I drive a '99 M3.  I have replaced the stock 7x16 rims with 7.5x17 M
Contours shod with 225/45/17 MXX3 Pilots.  The car is definitely
over-tire'd as it is.

First thing to do:  find the person who sold you an M3 with 16 inch
wheels and throttle him.

The extra grip of the Pilots, the additional amount of rubber on the
road and the heavier wheels are making the stock suspension look bad
when driving hard over less-than-perfect roads.

Second thing to do:  Make sure you have an M3.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 8 Feb 2000 16:34:35 -0500
From: Jeff Berg <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [uuc] Stone chips (was: I'm liking Chester more and more..)

Don Eilenberger writes about flying debris:
"Horsepucky. If you got those kinda problems - you're tailgating.."

Uhhh...not necessarily. About two hours ago while heading home from a 
client call in "The Garden State" I was cruising down the center lane 
of I-95 minding my own business. I wasn't tailgating (or even driving 
*that* fast) when a large delivery truck passed me--on the right mind 
you--and something flying from the truck bed or thrown from a tire 
put a nice chip in the bimmers windshield.

Rant all you want to--this stuff happens to people doing the right 
thing too. Not that I use, or advocate the use of, nose bras or 3M 
film mind you. I just chalk up the accumulated damage to "time on the 
road".

I also use an automatic car wash--albiet a good one. (My Car Wash use 
a Belanger system, said to be the same one BMWs run through on the 
way out of the factory)  Life is just too short...

jeff

==
  Jeffrey A. Berg     Purple Shark Media        Rowayton, CT
                     [EMAIL PROTECTED]
                      ==================
        My garden is full of papayas and mangos.
        My dance card is filled with merengues and tangos.
        Taste for the good life,
        I can see it no other way.
                --Jimmy Buffett, Lone Palm (live version)

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 08 Feb 2000 14:19:09 -0800
From: Steve Albrecht <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [uuc] <WOB>...Stories...

I have enjoyed Chester's stories as well as Porridgehead's, so I thought
I would tell one.  No blood or injuries in this story.

Once upon a time, my wife & I lived in a condo in Nashua New Hampshire.
Occupying a unit a short ways across the quadrangle was a single man
that was a coach at one of the local high schools, and Coach & I became
good friends.  I really enjoyed watching the parade of drop dead
georgious girlfriends he would bring home. He had a badmitton net set up
and there were frequent games with these girls. Badmitton can be a very
entertaining spectator sport with the right participants!

I should mention at this point that we had a great German Shepherd, and
Coach loved to come over and play with him when Strider & I were
outside.  Coach and Strider became very good buddies and Strider loved
to wrestle with him. So one evening, Coach comes over while I was
tending my garden. "Steve", he says, "I have a dilema. Should I get
married or should I get a dog?"  My reply without a microsecond's
hesitation was. "Get a dog".  The next thing we heard was my wife in the
kitchen window..."I heard that!" she shouts.  Oops!  She loves to tell
this story herself whenever the opportunity presents itself. That
incident took place 13 years ago and we are still married. However, good
ol' Strider has been gone for over ten years now. 

I don't know if Coach got married or what, we moved to Westford Ma.
shortly thereafter and we lost contact with him.

Steve Albrecht
Golden Gate Chapter

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 08 Feb 2000 16:22:07 -0600
From: Martin Miller <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [uuc] Re:Roast crack bearings WOB

> "Roast crack bearings" sounds like Xmas at a performance shop run by
> junkies.
>
> Sing with me and Bing Crosby: "Roast crack bearings on an open bong... vice
> squad knockng at your door..."
>
> ;-)
>
> - - Rob
>
Rob, you sick bastard.
    That was the absolute funniest of all.... you are sick.
Your Admirer,
- --Martin Miller
P.S. I can't stop singing it, hell I've got the second vrs. written:
"If I could get a chip... for the turbo on my bong.....

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 08 Feb 2000 17:20:43 -0500
From: "Neil Deshpande" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [uuc] <E30> Control Arm Stuff

When removing the control arms, I would suggest the following:

1. Clean the threads on the ball joints thoroughly before you start undoing the nuts.  
Dirt on the threads will, if you do not do this, get in between the nut and threaded 
ball joint and jam the nut.

2. To remove the knuckle ball joint you can use a punch and hammer since the threaded 
part has a depression in it.

3. To remove the inboard joint, you will have to use the pickle fork.  Since you are 
replacing the arm, destroying the boots is not a concern.

4. To undo the inboard ball joint boot, you will need a stubby wrech on the iC.  On 
the iS, etc., an ordinary combination wrench should be fine.

5. To undo the tie rod end, follow the same procedure as the knuckle end.  You could 
thread in a nut partially to have a surface to hammer on.  Remember you are re-using 
this though and be careful.

6. Use PB Blaster on the parts for a few days before you attack.

7. Strike sideways on the knuckle end while spraying PB B in between ball joint and 
knuckle.  This distorts the knuckle enough to let the PB B get in.

8. Get the bushings pushed in.  Use soap in plenty to push them onto the control arm.  
To remove, simply use a standard puller.  This will most likely rip the bracket off.

9. Get locknuts.  Alternatively you can use BLUE Loctite, but that is a definite 
second choice.

10. Check Jack Money's page at www.skumwerks.net. 

Neil Deshpande
1988 325 iS
1989 325 iC

------------------------------

End of [uucdigest] V3 #220
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