[uucdigest] Monday, February 14 2000 Volume 03 : Number 257 ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ | For all available Digest commands including unsubscribe/subscribe, | visit the BMW UUC Digest page: http://www.uucdigest.com | Send SUBMISSIONS to [EMAIL PROTECTED] | Complaints? Send 'em to [EMAIL PROTECTED] if you must. | Visit http://www.bubbaclub.com | www.bimmers.com - "serving enthusiasts on the 'net" | Visit http://www.bimmer.org - ultimate BMW bulletin boards! | Subscribe to the Zionsville Autosport Parts Digest: | http://www.zionsvilleautosport.com/majordomo.htm ����������������������������������������� In this BMW UUC Digest: [uuc] Re: Dent Wizard Party Re: [uuc] SCCA IT 2002 [uuc] '93 325i auto [FS] [uuc] Re: <ALL>broken bolt Re: [uuc] SCCA IT 2002 Re: [uuc] SCCA IT 2002 Re: [uuc] <ALL>broken bolt - need advice Re: [uuc] Dent Wizard Party Re: Subject: [uuc] RE: <WOB> Airbags - new technology! [uuc] BMW Books Cheap! [uuc] Re: euro hfm without upgrading the chip... RE: [uuc] <E28> Heater Blower Motor [uuc] Re: Active Noise Cancellation Mufflers? Please no! [uuc] <E36> Need help - front suspension [uuc] Re: Dent Wizzard RE: [uuc] Dent Wizard Party ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Mon, 14 Feb 2000 00:53:45 -0800 (PST) From: "I.L. Eberhart" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] Re: Dent Wizard Party Rob and all, although I don't have any dents (my pre-dented Hyundai doesn't count) I could probably put together a similar event in Chicago. It's always interesting to meet digesters in person. Keep me informed of the deal you get and the date. We'll do our part to make the Midwest dent free too. - - Chip __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Talk to your friends online with Yahoo! Messenger. http://im.yahoo.com ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 14 Feb 2000 03:57:20 -0500 From: albert jenab <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [uuc] SCCA IT 2002 At 12:42 AM 2/14/00 -0500, "VincentMathew Malfa" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: >If anyone from the racing contingent could help me out on this one, it would >be greatly appreciated. I am researching what goes into an IT(B) 2002 racer, >and I haven't found any really definitive info online. I have pretty easily >picked up the ideas on suspension, (thanks to Ireland Engineering) but thats >about it. Specifically, I am unclear about wheel sizes, fuel >injection/ignition limitations, general engine mods, tranny updates, >bumpers, etc. Also, does anyone know the "hot setup" for struts, brakes, or >exhaust? If anyone knows where to find this info online or elsewhere, please >let me know! > >Thanks, >Matt M. You need to contact SCCA directly and get two books. General Competition Rules (GCR) and the Improved Touring book. The GCR has construction regulations that apply to all (or most) classes as far as safety equipment, etc. and a whole bunch of other info. The IT book has specific rules for both the entire IT class, as well as which sub-class each specific make and model of car runs in, and what can and can't be done. This includes wheel sizes/offsets, car weights, allowable tranny/diff/motor/brake/suspension/body mods, parts swaps between years, etc. As far as I know, none of this is online, it is proprietary so you have to pay for it. Then go to a race, walk around the pits and check out what the fast people are doing. You might be surprised. Several years ago, when Ed York was dominating ITB here in the WDC region I checked out the suspension on his car. No coil-overs, no camber plates, no fancy NASCAR sway bars or billet anything. Just an extremely well-sorted car, that was driven brilliantly, with tiny (mostly secret) tweaks to a basic set-up. - -Al 95 M3 ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 14 Feb 2000 01:01:15 -0800 (PST) From: "I.L. Eberhart" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] '93 325i auto [FS] 1993 325i automatic 4dr. Silver with black interior. All options plus a lot of other goodies. Alarm, CD, heated electric seats, you name it. 121K (mostly highway as they say) miles. Maintained by Midwest Motorsport. Asking $15K obo Just picked up another car in Dallas and am purchasing a new house too soon to be able to afford both cars. Make a reasonable offer and the car is yours. I am a very motivated seller. For a picture and more details go to... http://www.windycitybmw.com/members/member_cars/irwin.htm - - Chip Windy City Chapter __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Talk to your friends online with Yahoo! Messenger. http://im.yahoo.com ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 14 Feb 2000 04:36:54 EST From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [uuc] Re: <ALL>broken bolt "Boyd, David (Neighbour Boy)" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> writes: >Does anybody have any good ideas on how to get the rest of the bolt out >without dropping the pan? I would be very appreciative of any advice you >could give. Use a left hand drill to carefully get it to back out. You don't want to get the metal shavings into the pan, be careful. Dennis Jeong 95 518 tds 87 744 http://members.aol.com/dennis6733/540.html GGC Test Engineer for hire, inquire within. ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 14 Feb 2000 04:05:41 -0800 (PST) From: Matthew Yip <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [uuc] SCCA IT 2002 If you're serious about IT racing, spend the $20-30 for a GCR (General Competition Rules) as published by the SCCA. That will provide you with all the correct answers to your questions. FWIW, if your 2002 is injected, it runs in ITA along with such notables as the 1st Gen RX7, RX2 and 3, Ford Capri (not Mustwang), and VW GTi 16v. Otherwise it's an ITB car that battles with VW Rabbit GTis, Alfettas, and Suzuki Swifts. There are two schools of thought concerning start-up racing. One is to build your own car and do the development yourself. While this is fun, it is also expensive and time consuming. The other school of thought is to buy a pre-built, legal car. This isn't as much fun but it will get you on the track sooner. - --- VincentMathew Malfa <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > If anyone from the racing contingent could help me out on this one, > it would > be greatly appreciated. I am researching what goes into an IT(B) > 2002 racer, > and I haven't found any really definitive info online. I have > pretty easily > picked up the ideas on suspension, (thanks to Ireland Engineering) > but thats > about it. Specifically, I am unclear about wheel sizes, fuel > injection/ignition limitations, general engine mods, tranny > updates, > bumpers, etc. Also, does anyone know the "hot setup" for struts, > brakes, or > exhaust? If anyone knows where to find this info online or > elsewhere, please > let me know! ===== Matthew Yip [EMAIL PROTECTED] http://www.geocities.com/mgyip/ '87 GTi 16v - x2 '88 M5 '99 F350 __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Talk to your friends online with Yahoo! Messenger. http://im.yahoo.com ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 14 Feb 2000 07:28:59 -0500 From: "Pat Donahue" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [uuc] SCCA IT 2002 The easy (and correct) way to find out what is and isn't allowed is to buy the GCR which you can find at http://www.scca.org/news/index.html#comp_regs As far as what's the best stuff to make your car go, there you do need advice from the folks who race 'em. Geeeze '88 325is SCCA WDCR ITS #88 - ----- Original Message ----- From: VincentMathew Malfa <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > If anyone from the racing contingent could help me out on this one, it would > be greatly appreciated. I am researching what goes into an IT(B) 2002 racer, > and I haven't found any really definitive info online. I have pretty easily > picked up the ideas on suspension, (thanks to Ireland Engineering) but thats > about it. Specifically, I am unclear about wheel sizes, fuel > injection/ignition limitations, general engine mods, tranny updates, > bumpers, etc. Also, does anyone know the "hot setup" for struts, brakes, or > exhaust? If anyone knows where to find this info online or elsewhere, please > let me know! > > Thanks, > Matt M. > ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 14 Feb 2000 07:34:10 -0500 From: "Pat Donahue" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [uuc] <ALL>broken bolt - need advice Holy Cow Jim! This is a bolt (essentially) with a hole through the center already. Take the broke part down to the hardware store or auto supply and buy an easy out that fits that bore size. Tap it into place (making sure the end won't contact anything inside) and unscrew the plug. There really won't be much effort needed as the stress is off the remainder now. Geeeze '99 F250 PSD SD SC - ----- Original Message ----- From: Jim Powell <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > Well since you won't be driving it till this is fixed.... > > Wait till it quits dripping oil. Clean it well with brake > cleaner/Gumout and Q-Tip the crap out of it. Now you should be able to > use JB Weld epoxy to attach another smaller diameter bolt to the busted > part. Just put a bead on the tip of another bolt and wait till it > > "Boyd, David (Neighbour Boy)" wrote: > > > > I really don't want to have to drop the oil pan after hearing what a pain it > > is. Does anybody have any good ideas on how to get the rest of the bolt out > > without dropping the pan? I would be very appreciative of any advice you > > could give. ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 14 Feb 2000 07:29:38 -0500 From: "Gary Derian" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [uuc] Dent Wizard Party These guys come out to you because they have no "place". Its for their convenience, not yours. Its worth trying, though. Gary Derian <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > > DENT WIZARD PARTY! > > These Dent Wizard places usually charge a flat rate per panel or ding or > whatever to come out to your house and make the mark disappear. A lot of > their cost has to be the individual trip, right? What if a bunch of us got > our cars together in one place... might they give a discounted rate for > doing several cars all at once? > > - Rob Levinson > [EMAIL PROTECTED] ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 14 Feb 2000 07:21:42 -0500 From: "Gary Derian" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: Subject: [uuc] RE: <WOB> Airbags - new technology! I thought head bags stay inflated for some time, unlike front bags which deflate immediately. If I were rolling, I would like head bags. Gary Derian <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > No, a rollover does not deploy the head bags as they would be of no use in > such a scenario and the logic recognizes this. > > PhilBell wrote: > > > If the car had the head airbags, would it have gone off in the rollover? ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 14 Feb 2000 07:41:51 -0500 From: "iMac" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] BMW Books Cheap! Forsale on ebay, starting very low. Unbeatable BMW by Jeremy Walton 2nd edition �Ebay #257480501 Illustrated BMW Buyer's Guide �Ebay #257490101 BMW Enthusiast's Companion Book �Ebay #257500908 Check out www.ebay.com for more info. Regards, Bryan Former BMW owner ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 14 Feb 2000 05:05:05 -0800 (PST) From: Sean Cain <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] Re: euro hfm without upgrading the chip... Ken, It is not advisable to run the Euro HFM without the applicable software (JC, AA or BMP). Not only will the car run lean at the higher rpm's, but the Euro HFM has a completely different air reader than the US version. If you track your car a lot (which I think you have posted), you definitely need the correct amount of fuel at the higher rpms to not starve the motor and destroy it over time. ===== Sean E. Cain <NCC Chapter> 95 M3: ECIS Intake, Euro HFM, AA euro chip, BL/SS, X-Brace, euro clears, 97 M3 Wheels http://www.ecisbmw.com __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Talk to your friends online with Yahoo! Messenger. http://im.yahoo.com ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 14 Feb 2000 08:07:45 -0500 From: "Cagann, Alexander" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: RE: [uuc] <E28> Heater Blower Motor > Ok..February in Chicago means COLD. My heater fan switch > when I turn it > on sounds like marbles in a garbage disposal. So I know my > blower motor > is going. This thing cannot be that hard to replace. But > how does one > determine which to order without first removing it...Behr or Sofica? > There is a huge price difference. Is there not some > delineation by year > and month of manufacture? Who's been there??? > > Greg (trying to stay warm in the Windy City) > '84 533i Greg, before spending $200 plus on a new blower motor...try and fix this one. Undo the bolts on the firewall and pull it back. Pull the plastic housing from each end of the blower fans. Unclip the motor, pull it out a bit, unclip the two wires, and pull completely out. Use some lithium grease on the bearings. It has worked for me twice. I have heard that you can also take the motor in to a shop and have it repaired. Alex Cagann 88///M5 ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 14 Feb 2000 08:22:29 EST From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [uuc] Re: Active Noise Cancellation Mufflers? Please no! << does anyone know if someone's still working on active noise cancellation mufflers? Mufflers are big & heavy, and electronic muffler tuning just sounds like a blast! It would be great to have a switch on the dash to choose between quiet, loud, Ferrari, bees-in-a-can, and of course Jetsons. >> <<sigh>> Must we befuddle the last BMW part free of electronics? Is it that "analog" mufflers don't break often enough? Or does the existence of one simple, functional part with no wiring harness just keep you up at night? I'm sorry, but anyone who wants an electronic muffler should be sentenced to own, drive and pay for repairs on a 1989 750iL with 120,000 miles. Mike Miller ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 14 Feb 2000 08:40:53 -0500 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [uuc] <E36> Need help - front suspension Hello all, I need help diagnosing a small clunk in the front of my '95 325i. When the brakes are applied, you can feel a clunk and a small tug to the right through the steering wheel. It's not enough to alter the course of the car, but it's ALWAYS to the right, never left. It doesn't appear to be life threatening, but it's enough to cause me concern. Here's where it gets interesting. I took the car to the dealer to have this looked at. I described the symptoms the best I could, and their diagnosis was - warped rotors!? Which of course would not be covered under warranty. The front rotors are Balos purchased from Steve D. at Ultimate Garage, with Axxis Delux pads. They have around 15k on them, and being this is my wife's car, have never been abused in any way. No track, autocross, and this is Florida so all of the roads are painfully flat and straight. I'm having a very hard time believing it's warped rotors. There is NO pulsing in the pedal, and the clunk is not felt in the pedal, only the wheel. There is an occasional shimmy in the wheel when braking lightly, but it stops when more pedal pressure is applied. I think it's a ball joint or tie rod. When I had the car up, I noticed the right tie rod is much looser than the left. Also, I could cause a clunk in both lower ball joints by grabbing the rotor/hub assembly and giving it a good tug. Also, the control arm bushings seem pretty loose, with lots of sideways movement. The problem is I don't have a good frame of reference for any of this, so I don't know if it's normal or not. My M3 has the solid bushings so I can't compare, but I don't remember the balls joints clunking like that. Any help is appreciated, I'm scheduled to go back to the dealer this afternoon. TIA Eric ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 14 Feb 2000 08:49:13 EST From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [uuc] Re: Dent Wizzard I think that they would discount. I have two in my M3 that need to come out. My dad had two or three in his car and they charged $75 for the first dent, and I think $10 for each dent after that. They do great work. Tony ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 14 Feb 2000 09:03:54 -0500 From: "Binder, Larry - Paoli" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: RE: [uuc] Dent Wizard Party Let me know when, I have a few I need to get done. I'm just outside of Philly. How far from Brunswick, NJ is that? If they do good work then I'm in! A local detailer quoted me $100 per panel. (two panels=$200) Do you think it will be cheaper than that? Larry 97 318i Mech Designer/Draftsman Synthes Spine ************************************************************************* The opinions and statements expressed above are mine, and do not reflect that of my employer. ************************************************************************* > -----Original Message----- > From: Rob Levinson - UUC Motorwerks [SMTP:[EMAIL PROTECTED]] > Sent: Sunday, February 13, 2000 11:08 PM > To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]; [EMAIL PROTECTED]; [EMAIL PROTECTED]; > [EMAIL PROTECTED] > Subject: [uuc] Dent Wizard Party > > Dings. > > I hate 'em and yes, my M5 has one that catches my eye every time I walk > by. > Argh. > > Many of you must also have some of this evidence of the parking > carelessness > of the unwashed masses. > > So what to do about it? > > DENT WIZARD PARTY! > > These Dent Wizard places usually charge a flat rate per panel or ding or > whatever to come out to your house and make the mark disappear. A lot of > their cost has to be the individual trip, right? What if a bunch of us > got > our cars together in one place... might they give a discounted rate for > doing several cars all at once? > > I plan on finding out about a "bulk rate" soon and I will post it. The > get-together of all of these dented-up cars would be at my house in North > Brunswick, NJ (Middlesex County). It would also be a great opportunity to > meet other list members and drool on each others' cars. We would probably > do this in early March. > > If you are interested in getting in on this, drop me an e-mail PRIVATELY > (no > need to send to the entire list) and let me know how many dings on your > car > need "wizarding". > > - Rob Levinson > [EMAIL PROTECTED] > > > > ------------------------------ End of [uucdigest] V3 #257 ************************** _________________________________________ | Please visit these UUC-approved BMW parts vendors/service providers: | (listed alphabetically) | Bonneville Motorwerks . http://www.bonnevillemotorwerks.com | Circle Tire Co. 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