[uucdigest] Friday, February 18 2000 Volume 03 : Number 291 ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ | For all available Digest commands including unsubscribe/subscribe, | visit the BMW UUC Digest page: http://www.uucdigest.com | Send SUBMISSIONS to [EMAIL PROTECTED] | Complaints? Send 'em to [EMAIL PROTECTED] if you must. | Visit http://www.bubbaclub.com | www.bimmers.com - "serving enthusiasts on the 'net" | Visit http://www.bimmer.org - ultimate BMW bulletin boards! | Subscribe to the Zionsville Autosport Parts Digest: | http://www.zionsvilleautosport.com/majordomo.htm ����������������������������������������� In this BMW UUC Digest: [uuc] Popular Mechanics manuals on CD RE: [uuc] E30 won't go into 1st gear, and sometimes second ! Re: [uuc] E30 won't go into 1st gear, and sometimes second ! RE: RE: [uuc] <ot> Driving/shifting question [uuc] 328is Wind Noise Re: [uuc] <ot> Driving/shifting question [uuc] RE: <ot> Driving/shifting question Re: [uuc] <ot> Driving/shifting question [uuc] <wtb> E30 325i head RE: RE: [uuc] <ot> Driving/shifting question RE: RE: [uuc] <ot> Driving/shifting question [uuc] wtb e30 swaybars RE: [uuc] <ot> Driving/shifting question [uuc] Re: M Badge Re: [uuc] Re: M Badge [uuc] Re: LTW for sale Re: [uuc] Earl's SS brake line purchase ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Fri, 18 Feb 2000 12:29:17 -0700 From: "David Egelston" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] Popular Mechanics manuals on CD Anyone have any experience with the Popular Mechanics manuals on CD? Already have the Bentley book. ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 18 Feb 2000 11:25:49 -0800 From: "Stremel, John" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: RE: [uuc] E30 won't go into 1st gear, and sometimes second ! My 95' M3 is doing the same thing. Must be a clutch problem. > -----Original Message----- > From: Alarcon, Rob [SMTP:[EMAIL PROTECTED]] > Sent: Friday, February 18, 2000 10:51 AM > To: BMW Digest (E-mail) > Subject: [uuc] E30 won't go into 1st gear, and sometimes second ! > > I need to find out what's going on here. At times while I am stopped > at a red light I cannot get into 1st gear. If I go into second first and > then try 1st it will go in ... most of the time. Sometimes I cannot even > get it in second ! The gearbox seems to work fine otherwise - only > 72,000 miles on the clock. I changed the fluid in the gearbox (Redline > of course) just recently. Any thoughts ? > > Robb A. ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 18 Feb 2000 11:30:12 -0800 From: Jim Ochi <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [uuc] E30 won't go into 1st gear, and sometimes second ! At 12:51 PM 2/18/00 -0600, Alarcon, Rob wrote: >I need to find out what's going on here. At times while I am stopped >at a red light I cannot get into 1st gear. If I go into second first and >then try 1st it will go in ... most of the time. Sometimes I cannot even >get it in second ! The gearbox seems to work fine otherwise - only >72,000 miles on the clock. I changed the fluid in the gearbox (Redline >of course) just recently. Any thoughts ? > It may be that your clutch isn't disengaging - check your clutch pedal to see if there isn't something preventing it from going all the way down. If there's a clutch stop, you might want to temporarily remove it to see if that makes a difference. Check the bracket, too, to make sure it's not bent or cracked. Just a thought - and a lot cheaper than ripping open the tranny! Hope this helps, Jim Ochi [EMAIL PROTECTED] ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 18 Feb 2000 14:40:49 -0500 From: Thomas Philip <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: RE: RE: [uuc] <ot> Driving/shifting question You have to start getting tricky with the heel and toe business when you have to brake and downshift for a corner. You're needing to apply three pedals with two feet, hence the technique. Heel and toe is really a misnomer -- it's really using the edge of the right foot to blip the gas while the ball of the foot remains on the brake. Once you get used to the technique it starts to feel really natural until you wear dress shoes and screw up the throttle blip and nearly give everyone in the car whiplash (BTDT!). <g> Tom Philip '94 325is At 1:59 PM -0500 2/18/00, you wrote: > I don't understand all the fuss. > Every single time I want to go from > a higher gear (5) to a lower gear (4), > I depress the clutch pedal, blip the > gas a split while the tranny is disengaged, > proceed to downshift, and release the > clutch before the rpms can return to > their previous level. I know I have synchros, > but the downshift feels positively smoother, > when I do this. What is all this Heel AND toe business? > > perplexed in New York, > Zach ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 18 Feb 2000 13:54:13 -0600 From: "Celisa" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] 328is Wind Noise I don't know if anyone else has experienced wind noise. I know I live in Texas, but I tend to experience wind noise when getting up pass 65mph. I don't know if this is normal or not. A friend is suppose to drive and check this out for me. My cousin asked when she rode with me, she asked where was the wind coming from. The car is under warranty of course. Now my 318i had a whisle, and no one could find where that was coming from. Thanks for any responses possible. Best Regards, Celisa ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 18 Feb 2000 13:55:14 -0600 From: Michael Weishaar <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [uuc] <ot> Driving/shifting question This is interesting to me, because I have always been taught that you should be going as straight as possible when braking. Unless of course you are trail braking, which can be a hoot. Don't you brake to settle the car, and transfer weight to the front? I guess it really also depends on what kind of corner you are entering. I am kind of picturing a sharp corner. For longer or less sharp corners you should already be in the correct gear by the time you turn in and not have to downshift. Michael Matthew Yip wrote: > > Not really - if you turn in while braking or coasting, the car is > relatively unbalanced. If you're near the limits of adhesion, the > rear will most likely try to swap ends with the front. If you're not > braking that hard, well, that's another story. In a RWD car, the > amount of power that's applied is more critical BUT regardless of the > drive wheels, it's important to keep the power "on" to ensure static > dynamics. > > ===== > Matthew Yip > [EMAIL PROTECTED] > http://www.geocities.com/mgyip/ > > '87 GTi 16v - x2 > '88 M5 > '99 F350 ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 18 Feb 2000 14:13:24 -0600 From: "Fadeev, Alex" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] RE: <ot> Driving/shifting question "George, Zachariah (CICG Development)" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> asks: > > I don't understand all the fuss. > Every single time I want to go from > a higher gear (5) to a lower gear (4), > I depress the clutch pedal, blip the > gas a split while the tranny is disengaged, > proceed to downshift, and release the > clutch before the rpms can return to > their previous level. I know I have synchros, > but the downshift feels positively smoother, > when I do this. What is all this Heel AND toe business? > > perplexed in New York, > Zach Zach, Nothing to worry about. Just some fools trying to blip the throttle, downshift _and_ break at the same time. Humans, being bipedal, and break being the 3rd pedal ... alex f ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 18 Feb 2000 12:19:43 -0800 (PST) From: Matthew Yip <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [uuc] <ot> Driving/shifting question - --- Michael Weishaar <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > This is interesting to me, because I have always been taught that > you should be going as straight as possible when braking. Unless of > course you are trail braking, which can be a hoot. Don't you brake to settle the car, and transfer weight to the front? Braking transfers weight towards the front - however, it conversly transfers weight away from the rear. At turn-in, if under braking, the grip on the front wheels will be sufficient enough to cause the rear to break free. If under no load, the front and rear will have somewhat similar amounts of grip which means that neither front nor rear will have superior traction which results in a unpredictable handling - either oversteer or understeer. Under acceleration, the rear wheels will have more traction, which provides more stable results. > I guess it really also depends on what kind of corner you are > entering. I am kind of picturing a sharp corner. For longer or less sharp corners you should already be in the correct gear by the time you turn in and not have to downshift. The greater the severity of the turn, the more critical it becomes to have the braking and downshifting completed BEFORE turn-in. However, the aforementioned works on ALL turns, not just severe ones or shallow ones. ===== Matthew Yip [EMAIL PROTECTED] http://www.geocities.com/mgyip/ '87 GTi 16v - x2 '88 M5 '99 F350 __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Talk to your friends online with Yahoo! Messenger. http://im.yahoo.com ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 18 Feb 2000 15:11:03 -0500 From: Rich Beebe <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] <wtb> E30 325i head looking for complete 'i' head for an E30. any mileage considered, lower mileage preferred. must be in good/usable condition. please include price and location. thanks. rich beebe ncc baltimore, md ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 18 Feb 2000 15:20:02 -0500 (EST) From: Moe Drippins <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: RE: RE: [uuc] <ot> Driving/shifting question George, Zachariah (CICG Development) writes: > > > I don't understand all the fuss. Every single time I want to go from > a higher gear (5) to a lower gear (4), I depress the clutch pedal, > blip the gas a split while the tranny is disengaged, proceed to > downshift, and release the clutch before the rpms can return to > their previous level. I know I have synchros, but the downshift > feels positively smoother, when I do this. What is all this Heel AND > toe business? Heel and toe is simply a technique for double clutch downshifting *as you brake*. - -- Just Moe '95 540 6 speed, BL/SS BMWCCA Peachtree Chapter ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 18 Feb 2000 12:21:37 -0800 (PST) From: Matthew Yip <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: RE: RE: [uuc] <ot> Driving/shifting question Try doing that in cowperson boots whilst driving a pickup truck - BTDT too!! - --- Thomas Philip <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > Once you get used to the technique it starts to feel really natural > until you wear dress shoes and screw up the throttle blip and > nearly give everyone in the car whiplash (BTDT!). <g> ===== Matthew Yip [EMAIL PROTECTED] http://www.geocities.com/mgyip/ '87 GTi 16v - x2 '88 M5 '99 F350 __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Talk to your friends online with Yahoo! Messenger. http://im.yahoo.com ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 18 Feb 2000 12:23:08 -0800 (PST) From: t k <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] wtb e30 swaybars Hey Guys, I wtb sway bars for my 2dr '90 e30. I prefer RD adjustable if somebody has them, used is okay. Let me know if you have anything or can suggest something. Thanks, Tarek '90 325i __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Talk to your friends online with Yahoo! Messenger. http://im.yahoo.com ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 18 Feb 2000 14:29:02 -0600 From: Luis Marques <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: RE: [uuc] <ot> Driving/shifting question That's fine as long as you're coasting - one foot operates the clutch, the other the gas. But what if you're braking very hard and getting ready to turn in at the same time that you're downshifting (as in most of the time you're at the track)? That's when the right foot does double duty. Usually the lower/right half (heel) takes care of the accelerator and the upper/left half (toe) takes care of the brake all at the same time. Hence the expression "heel AND toe". - -Luis Marques '97 328i "George, Zachariah (CICG Development)" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > > I don't understand all the fuss. > Every single time I want to go from > a higher gear (5) to a lower gear (4), > I depress the clutch pedal, blip the > gas a split while the tranny is disengaged, > proceed to downshift, and release the > clutch before the rpms can return to > their previous level. I know I have synchros, > but the downshift feels positively smoother, > when I do this. What is all this Heel AND toe business? > > perplexed in New York, > Zach ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 18 Feb 2000 15:26:49 EST From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [uuc] Re: M Badge Speaking of M528e's, there's a 1984 M318i for sale at the bmwe30.net sale. Around here there is also a guy with a very special 1980 M320i "special motorsport edition." (his words from ad) Those badges must be worth something, he wanted 4K. << With all this talk about emblem removol, what are you guys up to- putting "M" >badges on your 528e's? :) Don't you know? The "M" is for "M"ore power please...! :-) Speaking of which, just the other day I happened to see a M528e R-Type!!! At least that's what all the badges and stickers said on >> ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 18 Feb 2000 12:31:22 -0800 From: "Jonathan Reiser" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [uuc] Re: M Badge I actually don't see anything wrong with someone putting an M in front of their model badge. However, the other days I saw a completely stock E36 318iS (single tailpipe) where the owner had removed "318iS" and replaced it with a not just an ///M but the entire ///M3.... hullo... here we have Mr. Posier Someone with ///M528e or ///M318iS is just a BMW enthusiast to me. - ----- Original Message ----- From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Friday, February 18, 2000 12:26 PM Subject: [uuc] Re: M Badge > Speaking of M528e's, there's a 1984 M318i for sale at the bmwe30.net sale. > Around here there is also a guy with a very special 1980 M320i "special > motorsport edition." (his words from ad) Those badges must be worth > something, he wanted 4K. > > << With all this talk about emblem removol, what are you guys up to- putting > "M" > >badges on your 528e's? :) > > Don't you know? The "M" is for "M"ore power please...! :-) > > Speaking of which, just the other day I happened to see a M528e > R-Type!!! At least that's what all the badges and stickers said on >> ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 18 Feb 2000 15:35:53 -0500 From: "Gary M. Lawrence" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] Re: LTW for sale As some of you know, my ltw was involved in a crash at road atlanta last year. Long story but here is the short. right rear shock came off, hit wall. Let insurance total the car, they let me decide, bought car back. It is being repaired at the moment. In fact the damage was nowhere near what I thought the insurance claimed basically replace everything in front of motor save for the right fender. it was ok until the auction lot dented it moving car. new hood, fender, headlights etc. bolt on stuff. car went to frame shop and was 100% spec. no wrinkles etc well anyway with new job, another M3 etc. I am willing to be seperated from my true love if someone is motivated. i would entertain a good offer for a very healthy M3 Ltw. I have all the ltw goodies that woudl go in the trunk. pan, oil pump, wing, braces, etc. stock interior, raced 3 times in HS with 3 podium finishes This is the car that some of you like to claim "Fastest ltw in north america" since it does not have anything to do with the driver. lol Mike L reply to [EMAIL PROTECTED] ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 18 Feb 2000 12:31:58 -0500 From: "Gary Derian" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [uuc] Earl's SS brake line purchase For street driving I think the BMW lines are best. Gary Derian <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > Just saw this thread. I'm ready to buy some SS lines for my 95 M3, which are > the best ones for street driving? Please let me know brand and the best > place to buy them. Thanks. > ------------------------------ End of [uucdigest] V3 #291 ************************** _________________________________________ | Please visit these UUC-approved BMW parts vendors/service providers: | (listed alphabetically) | Bonneville Motorwerks . http://www.bonnevillemotorwerks.com | Circle Tire Co. (used & classic BMW parts) e-mail [EMAIL PROTECTED] | Curry's Auto Service . http://www.currysauto.com | Eurosport . http://www.eurosport-hp.com | Koala MotorSport . http://www.koalamotorsport.com | Taylor BMW - http://www.taylorbmw.com - Doc Bimmer! | The Ultimate Garage . http://www.ultimategarage.com | UUC Motorwerks . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com | Zionsville Autosport . http://www.zionsvilleautosport.com ����������������������������������������
