[uucdigest] Saturday, February 19 2000 Volume 03 : Number 296 ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ | For all available Digest commands including unsubscribe/subscribe, | visit the BMW UUC Digest page: http://www.uucdigest.com | Send SUBMISSIONS to [EMAIL PROTECTED] | Complaints? Send 'em to [EMAIL PROTECTED] if you must. | Visit http://www.bubbaclub.com | www.bimmers.com - "serving enthusiasts on the 'net" | Visit http://www.bimmer.org - ultimate BMW bulletin boards! | Subscribe to the Zionsville Autosport Parts Digest: | http://www.zionsvilleautosport.com/majordomo.htm ����������������������������������������� In this BMW UUC Digest: [uuc] Valve Adjustment Problem Continued re: [uuc] Speakers for my E28 M5 re: [uuc] Turn-in technique Re: [uuc] Turn-in technique [uuc] Re: <E30 M3> Steering rack manual? Re: [uuc] Turn-in technique [uuc] <WOB> Blaupunkt Toronto/Sidney question [uuc] In-car video [uuc] E30 Ellipsoid light bulbs [uuc] RE: [uucdigest] speakers for my e28 M5 [uuc] shipping cars Re: [uuc] Turn-in technique [uuc] <e28> swapped final drive Re: [uuc] In-car video ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Sat, 19 Feb 2000 11:34:34 EST From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [uuc] Valve Adjustment Problem Continued Hey, Me again, the "valve adjusting moron". Taking on the task for the first time late at night when You are tired is not a good idea. I realized that I had the cam lobe facing up on the number one cylinder when I undid the bolt so the eccentric swung back towards the cam (towards the center if I am wrong in my assumptions). I tightened down the bolt and just went to bed. Now I know the errors in my way and need to fix it. My question, if I use my nifty remote start switch to turn the cam lobe down (the way it should be), can I then loosen the 10mm nut and turn the eccentric by hand until I can see the hole?? Is there going to be any damage associated with my incompetence?? Is there another way to fix this before I turn the engine over without doing any damage?? Should I just scrap the job and leave it for the big boys?? Again, cam lobe DOWN, loosen 10 mm bolt, adjust to .010 mm for my M20, then do the exhaust, turn cam to the next one, repeat for all 6 cylinders, recheck all clearances and reassemble. Is this correct?? Sorry about the last message as I was delerious. Thanks in advance. Best, Rory '90 525i -- Hoping to have the valves done tonight ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 19 Feb 2000 08:54:10 -0800 From: Keith Wollenberg <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: re: [uuc] Speakers for my E28 M5 Michael asks about speakers for his M5. For the rear shelf, the ADS 300i plate speaker will fit beautifully without cutting any holes in the rear shelf. Just use the original speaker location. The fronts are a bit more tricky. I elected to live with the factory speakers, and preserve the originality of the car. Dave Schnell, at All the Right Connections in San Mateo, showed me an elegant solution. The front door panel is actually two pieces. He has a new panel to replace the flat portion of the door panel, with a speaker mount built into it. Depending on your budget and desires, you can cover this piece in either a similar vinyl, or the matching German leather. In either case, your original door panel can be saved, in its original intact condition, should you (or a subsequent owner), wish to return to a more original configuration. I am not unhappy with the good plate speakers in the back and the factories in the front, but that may be due in part to the better voicing from the new Nakamichi head unit and CD player I just had Dave install. (Should you wish to chat with him about this, he is at 650-579-5596). Usual disclaimers apply. No beneficial interest, yada, yada. Dave has written a column for the Golden Gate newsletter, and also has sometimes advertised in it. Keith Wollenberg BMW CCA BMW ACA ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 19 Feb 2000 12:11:58 -0500 From: "Michael Wendell" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: re: [uuc] Turn-in technique "Rob Levinson - UUC Motorwerks" said, regarding understeer at turn-in... > Applying the throttle transfers weight to the rear > wheels, away from the front wheels. Lightening the > load on the front end lets the front tires do their > steering job better instead of just plowing. uhhh... no. if you reduce the load on the front wheels, they'll be even happier to slide along the ground, they won't bite more. got understeer? then pick one: - unwind the wheel - reduce the throttle - increase the brakes m. ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 19 Feb 2000 12:12:35 -0500 From: Ken W <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [uuc] Turn-in technique "Rob Levinson - UUC Motorwerks" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > Yes - but too much weight on the front equals plow. Gotta unload > them a little. So lift, don't brake. ;-) - -Ken '91 M3 '86 GTI - -- [EMAIL PROTECTED] AIM: ScopusFest ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 19 Feb 2000 12:14:20 -0500 From: Ken W <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] Re: <E30 M3> Steering rack manual? "John Coffin" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > Is the E30 M3 steering rack manual? That is no power steering? We can only dream... ;-) - -Ken '91 M3 '86 GTI - -- [EMAIL PROTECTED] AIM: ScopusFest ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 19 Feb 2000 12:29:38 -0500 From: "James Sheridan-Peters" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [uuc] Turn-in technique > > Applying the throttle transfers weight to the rear wheels, away from > > the front wheels. Lightening the load on the front end lets the > > front tires do their steering job better instead of just plowing. > > These *WORDS* make sense, but my feeble newbie brain is still stuck > on the idea of taking weight off the fronts helping them steer rather > than plow. > > Can someone explain this to me? As an extreme example, think of your car as a teeter-totter. You come down to a straight to a sharp righthander (Say, Turn 1 at Summit). You brake, HARD. You've now tipped the car and much of it's weight forward over the front wheels. Now you ask them to turn. Meanwhile, rear wheels are now "up in the air" (remember, this is an extreme exageration) and have a real desire to keep going straight while the front wheels go around the corner. Now, depending on your speed, tires, etc. etc., you may well be understeering and you may not but the rear still has to be considered. *Some* throttle here can tip the teeter-totter back towards middle and keep the rear following the front, reduce some of the weight-transfer-induced work on the front tires and get you around the corner smoother. A balanced car is a happy car. :) Then, if you find yourself understeering you have the usual ways to combat it: remove some steering input, slow down (don't lift), brake if you have to. Of course, as Gary mentioned, this is rather closely tied to the car you drive and it's inate tendencies. The cars Matt and I are racing have piddling horsepower and you can damn near tramp it and still not tip the teeter-totter much. <g> Take an E36 M3 out and you'll have to be more gentle. - -- James Sheridan-Peters [EMAIL PROTECTED] National Capital Chapter '98 323is '85 SCCA Spec RX-7 #00 ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 19 Feb 2000 12:48:18 -0500 From: Ken W <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] <WOB> Blaupunkt Toronto/Sidney question I know that least a couple of you have the Toronto. I was wondering if when you are playing a CD from the changer if the display shows the CD number, track number, and time, as in minutes and seconds elapsed. I talked to a guy at Crutchfield and he said no, but I find that hard to believe. If I do get one I think I would prefer the Sidney since it is nice to have both CD and cassette. Thanks. - -Ken '91 M3 '86 GTI - -- [EMAIL PROTECTED] AIM: ScopusFest ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 19 Feb 2000 12:21:24 -0500 From: "John Van Houten" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] In-car video Well, I finally got some in-car up on the website. I have a single lap from Road Atlanta, Carolina Motorsports Park and Roebling Road from this past fall in mpg format. The video is small and without sound (all you here is wind noise anyway), but it will give you an inside view of each track. Go to http://www.netcom.com/~jvanhout and follow the link to BMW. Let me know what you think. John waiting desperately for some track time... ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 19 Feb 2000 13:34:03 -0500 From: "Olsen, Mike (Morse TEC Ithaca)" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] E30 Ellipsoid light bulbs Sorry for such a basic question, but neither the owner's manual, Bentley, or two or my catalogs will tell me: Which bulbs are supposed to go in the low beams and high beams of an E30 w/ ellipsoid lights? Mine has 9006's in the lows, but this seems contradictory to Bentley's comment on not mixing bulbs when changing them and that "the the high beam halogen bulb is identified by the black tip". 9006's have a black tip... Thanks, Mike Olsen '88 ///M3 '88 325iC ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 19 Feb 2000 13:56:08 -0500 From: "Scottie Sharpe" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] RE: [uucdigest] speakers for my e28 M5 Michael, Here's what I did with ADS components in my 535i. I got some factory tweeters and mounting plates for the corners of the doors from an 88 535is (your car should already have these, I presume). I pulled the dust covers off the factory tweeters and drilled a 1/2" hole straight through the stock speaker and magnet! I then used JB weld to attach the ADS tweeters to what was left of the factory tweeters and ran the wires through the hole. Because the ADS tweeters are larger, you can hardly tell what's up. The ADS tweeter sticks out farther, so make sure you have it centered or it will hit the door jamb. When all is said and done, it looks pretty stock. For the front kick panels, I used 3/4" weatherbond wood laminate, sanded nicely and painted flat black, to make a mounting plate for the woofer and then I attached the whole thing to the kick panel. Once the faceplate is attached, it looks good. Don't cut the interior of the kick panel speaker well. There's rain and outside weather back there. I do not like rear speakers for normal listening -- being a professional musician, I prefer the two-speaker nearfield monitor type of sound--but I wanted some sound in the back in case I have rear seat passengers on trips and so forth, so I wired them to my Eclipse 4321 head unit speaker outs and can fade them in and out the head unit fader. I wired them in series to give a neat "surround sound" type effect -- kind of goofy, but I like playing with it. I did not want large grills in the rear deck because this draws too much attention for car stereo theives. So opted instead to mount a single 10" Altec Lansing graphite sub woofer to the center of forward trunk wall. The speaker fires into the interior of the car behind the flap where the rear arm rest folds down. I removed the cardbord thingy. I just keep the arm rest folded down. The whole kit is powered by two ADS plates, a 40 bridged to 80-mono for the woofer and an 80 for the component speakers. I've had these amps for more than 10 years -- since my 74 2002 days! -- and I am always impressed with them! The crossovers for the ADS speakers are located in the trunk near the amp, Eclipse CD changer and other stuff. I use an Altec Lansing parametric eq with sub outs to feed the amps. Overall, a simple system that sounds awesome and looks fairly "non-valuable." My best, Scottie Sharpe '85 535i - Santa Clara, CA *** GoldMine for Mortgage Lenders www.rosenvick.com *** Quoting Michael Lesser: Date: Fri, 18 Feb 2000 15:20:42 -0800 From: "Michael Lesser" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] Speakers for my E28 M5 When I bought my '88 M5 two years ago, I took the Alpine head unit, ADS six channel X 50 watt amp, and the ADS 642 crossover from my much beloved and late lamented tii, and installed them in the new car. I installed my two 8" Soundstream subwoofers in the rear parcel shelf, but couldn't find a way to use the two pairs of ADS 320i component speakers from the old car in the M5 without cutting into the door panels and rear shelf. I would like to upgrade the original equipment speakers, and wonder if anyone out there has done so successfully without changing the look of the M5 interior. Any advice and ideas will be much appreciated. ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 19 Feb 2000 14:10:15 EST From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [uuc] shipping cars Dear Digesters, A friend of mine is moving from New York City to Hawaii and needs to ship his 99 M3. Any suggestions as to which company to use? Thanks for your help Michael Su 1991 325ic ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 19 Feb 2000 14:22:12 -0800 From: Ron Katona <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [uuc] Turn-in technique Moe Drippins wrote: > Rob Levinson - UUC Motorwerks writes: > > > Applying the throttle transfers weight to the rear wheels, away from > > the front wheels. Lightening the load on the front end lets the > > front tires do their steering job better instead of just plowing. > > These *WORDS* make sense, but my feeble newbie brain is still stuck > on the idea of taking weight off the fronts helping them steer rather > than plow. Rob's right, but the wording is confusing. Think about an F1 car. If a force pushing down on the tires didn't help a car turn, all those race cars wouldn't be festooned with inverted wings. And when a regular car crests a sharp rise at high speed, there's no way to corner at all since there's no weight on the front wheels. In those cases Rob's answer looks all wrong. The concept that makes Rob right is that a tire can only do so much, even when being shoved down into the pavement (either by mass and gravity, or by downforce). As weight or downforce increases, so does traction. You can vary the amount of traction available at any tire by accelerating, braking, or turning the car. But there's a maximum amount of traction available at any given time from any given tire. If you're getting maximum traction from a tire in a given direction, it can't provide traction in another direction simultaneously. That's the key point. There's a concept called the "friction circle" that helps explain all this. A quick web search found this site, there may be better ones: <http://www.auto-ware.com/setup/fc1.htm>. So let's say you're screaming into turn one at Summit Point at 130 mph in your Sharked M3 on R1s. You need to slow to about 55 for a nice smooth entry. That means you're braking like a top fueler with the chutes out. At that point, a lot of weight is transferred forward and the front wheels have a lot of traction. Good. Now you try to turn. Well, with all that weight forward this thing should turn in like a go-cart. It doesn't. You plow through to the gravel trap because you didn't get off the brakes. There's a limited amount of traction and it was used up 100% in braking. In order to turn, you need to sacrifice some of that braking for cornering. You have to let off the brakes. That removes some weight from the front end, thereby lowering available traction up front, but that's offset by the fact that the front tires now have some excess traction available for cornering. But there's a rub. As you turn in, the car rotates and it's polar momentum wants to keep it rotating. In order to prevent a spin, you need to plant the rear end with weight transfer aft. That means applying throttle, not just getting off the brakes. So the net effect is that in order to turn the car and not spin, you need to get off the brakes and on the gas. This isn't to lighten the front end per se (because we actually would love some weight up front for turn-in), but to manage the available amount of traction. Exactly when and how much throttle you add depends on what Gary Derian explained; it's different for different cars in different situations. Trail braking may be great for some cars, but I wouldn't try it in a 911 in high speed sweepers! For an M3 in autocross, it can help overcome some of the M3's inherent understeer. Then there's something I think Matt is trying to say. You need to be doing something in a corner, accelerating or braking. Doing neither just lets the suspension flop around as it damn well pleases. You need to allocate the traction by having some power or brakes applied. It's easier to apply power (and we hope we're accelerating out of a corner anyway) than to balance the car around a corner with brakes, so normally we want to get on the gas and stay on it. Modulate as needed to prevent power oversteer or understeer, but drive the car, don't just be a passenger. What you're doing is managing a complex system of dynamic, static, and aerodynamic forces. From a book perspective it's mind boggling. From the driver's perspective, it's a matter of practice, practice, practice. Doesn't really matter if you think the front end needs to get lighter for cornering or not, what matters is what you instinctively do when the tail starts to step out on some black ice... or in turn 4. - -- Ron Katona ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 19 Feb 2000 09:52:44 -0800 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [uuc] <e28> swapped final drive I swapped out the old 2.93 final drive in the 86 528e and put in a 3.25 final drive from a 533i. I had to swap the cover as they were different. The old final drive whined a bit and had 236k miles. The newer one has 177k miles and appear to be quiet. The 10% difference in gearing feels seat of the pants faster, but not to bad with rpms or noise. I am happy with the swap and found it was pretty easy, just about 2.50 hours for the R&R. ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 19 Feb 2000 15:01:33 -0500 From: "Grant Low" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [uuc] In-car video Awesome John! Those are great! I've never had any track time, and it just makes me want to try it even more! Grant 87 325 - ----- Original Message ----- From: John Van Houten <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] In-car video > Well, I finally got some in-car up on the website. I have a single lap from > Road Atlanta, Carolina Motorsports Park and Roebling Road from this past > fall in mpg format. The video is small and without sound (all you here is > wind noise anyway), but it will give you an inside view of each track. Go > to http://www.netcom.com/~jvanhout and follow the link to BMW. Let me know > what you think. > > John > waiting desperately for some track time... > ------------------------------ End of [uucdigest] V3 #296 ************************** _________________________________________ | Please visit these UUC-approved BMW parts vendors/service providers: | (listed alphabetically) | Bonneville Motorwerks . http://www.bonnevillemotorwerks.com | Circle Tire Co. 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