[uucdigest]         Monday, February 21 2000         Volume 03 : Number 304



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In this BMW UUC Digest:

       [uuc] E28 struts
       [uuc] <e28> oil on inside of intake
       [uuc] Misc, e-28
       [uuc] <OT> slide show screen saver ??
       Re: [uuc] <All> Carfax
       [uuc] <E30> iS w/M3 springs.  Alignment Numbers?
       [uuc] My first driver's school
       [uuc] Chicago Auto Show
       [uuc] Ben Keyes slide show
       Re: [uuc] My first driver's school
       [uuc] <E36> <FS> Schroth Rallye 4s, Harnessbar, Suspension parts
       [uuc] <E28> Shock/Spring discussion
       Re: [uuc] My first driver's school
       RE: [uuc] <2002> Alternator and rear axle questions
       [uuc] <M20> Exhaust manifold stud problem

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Mon, 21 Feb 2000 12:30:33 -0500
From: "Phemister, George" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [uuc] E28 struts

<<<<<<Ferguson Asks:
Subject: [uuc] <e-28> Strut advice

The car's paid off, and after a quarter million miles on what look to be
the original Boge struts, it's time to replace them.  I like what I hear
about Bilsteins, but I'm not sure I need that level of performance.  I
don't do autocrosss or driver's schools (though I might in the future)  I
like a sporty ride, but one which is compliant as well.  Is this possible
with the ancient (but not sagging) stock springs?   >>>>>>>>>


For $500, get  Suspension Techniques springs and 4 Boge or Monroe gas
shocks. Good looks, good ride, good price.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 21 Feb 2000 11:49:32 -0600
From: Scott Ferguson <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [uuc] <e28> oil on inside of intake

Ummm... Is this where I learn that the film of oil is from the K&N filter,
and smack my head at having to be told the obvious?

Scott


>Have you installed an K&N air filter?
>
>Gary Derian <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>
>
>> Howdy, Gents.
>>
>> I was replacing a fuel hose this weekend, and when I took off the rubber
>> intake bellows I noticed a fine film of oil inside the air meter and the
>> throttle body.  I don't remember seeing anything but dry metal before now.

186,282 miles per second:

It isn't just a good idea, it's the law!

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 21 Feb 2000 12:53:18 EST
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: [uuc] Misc, e-28

Does anyone know where I can get a set of stock springs for me 87 535is?  The 
dealer price was over $110 per spring!  I really don't want to lower the car, 
yet I'm sure after 13 years on the road and 185,000 miles the stockers need 
replaced.  I'll be install HD Bilstiens at the same time.
 I want to donate my TRX wheels to my kids school recycling program, but need 
to know the aluminum content of them.  Any info on this?
 Thanks in advance.
 John Lassiter 
 

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 21 Feb 2000 13:28:50 -0500
From: ben keyes <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [uuc] <OT> slide show screen saver ??

anyone got or know of a good shareware screen saver that will run jpg's as a
slide show ??

I used to run a really old version of afterdark, but I've lost the discs & it
likely will not work in Win98.

I don't t something that will limit the number of images (unless it allows ~100)
and don't want some url pasted onto all the images.  too much to ask ??


private replies only obviously.


Ben Keyes
lots of cool pics, no way to watch them...

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 21 Feb 2000 10:26:46 -0800
From: "Jonathan Reiser" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [uuc] <All> Carfax

ditto....  damn.  I should have asked the list before dropping the
$29.00......


- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Money, Jack (J.J.)" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Cc: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Monday, February 21, 2000 8:25 AM
Subject: RE: [uuc] <All> Carfax


> Daniel et al,
>
> I'd be glad to run something for you.  Lemme know.  Same for everyone....I
> think my access is good until the middle of March.
>
> Regards,
>
> Jack Money
> Motor City Chapter
> iX Registry
> '89 iX ----> Sharked!
> E30 M3 ----> Evolving
> mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] or reply
> http://skumwerks.net
> ===========================================================
>
> Could anyone with access to Carfax please contact me privately
> if you would
> be able to do a search on a car for me?  I appreciate your help.
>
> Sincerely,
>
>
> Daniel L. Lowe
> BMWCCA #93878
> '87 325is

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 21 Feb 2000 13:40:42 -0500
From: "Neil Deshpande" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [uuc] <E30> iS w/M3 springs.  Alignment Numbers?

I have E30 M3 springs on my 1988 325 iS.  The car is going to go in for an alignment 
and a final frame pull (was in an accident and has been fixed) this Thu.

Does anyone know what numbers I should align the front to?  The same as stock?

The back I'm going to leave as it is as it does not seem to have been hurt in the 
accident.  In any case, it is not adjustable.  I'll just have them check it and it was 
OK just 4 months ago so I'm not worried.

Neil Deshpande
1988 325 iS
1989 325 iC

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 21 Feb 2000 14:13:53 -0500
From: "Tim Taylor" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [uuc] My first driver's school

OK, so everyone sez driver's school is worth it even in my slushbox equipped
E34 540i :)

Now, then, having never attended a driver's school would I be advised to
attend the Highway Safety School first in order to learn some basics? Or is
that a waste of my time and $$? The wet skidpad and wet/dry braking
excercises sound pretty interesting...

Tim T
whose only previous 'track' event was the one time he took his 1983 Dodge
Shelby Charger to the SCCA autocross. I sucked. But it was cool to see all
the fast Rabbit GTIs get the inside rear wheel off the ground!

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 21 Feb 2000 13:08:59 -0600
From: "Holeman, David" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [uuc] Chicago Auto Show

Hi,

For those who missed the Chicago Auto Show I put some pictures up on the
Windy City BMW web site.  There is a link right from the home page to the
review.  Lots of pictures of the BMWs as well as other concept cars that
were at the show.  Enjoy.  www.windycitybmw.com
<http://www.windycitybmw.com> 


David Holeman

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 21 Feb 2000 14:27:14 EST
From: "Steven Reed" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [uuc] Ben Keyes slide show

Damn, I just hit the wrong button and lost Ben Keyes email addy so I'm 
forced to submit this to the entire list.. Ben, let me know what you find, 
I'm on the hunt too.
Sorry for the public response

Steve <doh>
______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 21 Feb 2000 14:32:22 -0500
From: "James Sheridan-Peters" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [uuc] My first driver's school

> Now, then, having never attended a driver's school would I be advised to
> attend the Highway Safety School first in order to learn some basics? Or
is
> that a waste of my time and $$? The wet skidpad and wet/dry braking
> excercises sound pretty interesting...

Take the HSS as well.  It gives you multiple benefits.

One, you learn the track both ways at an easy pace and over the course of a
full day.  When you come back the next day for the school you won't be
learning the track AND driving your car on the track, just the latter.

Second, every bit of skidpad practice you can get (or beg, or borrow, or
steal, or ...) is worthwhile.  You can never have too much.

Third, you'll have a chance to learn some car control in panic situations.
The driving school is intended to trach you how to drive fast and smooth -
it's not intended to show you how to avoid that van that pulled out without
looking first.

I HIGHLY recommend taking both as a weekend deal (like the NCC does it - I'm
assuming this is the school you're talking about, too).  Even if you decide
track driving is not for you you will have picked up some skills and
experience that could end up saving your life in an accident.

- --
James Sheridan-Peters (HSS as my first track experience)
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
'98 323is National Capital Chapter
'85 SCCA Spec RX-7 #00

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 21 Feb 2000 15:14:06 -0500 (EST)
From: Ned Coonen <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [uuc] <E36> <FS> Schroth Rallye 4s, Harnessbar, Suspension parts

One pair - driver and passenger - of Schroth Rallye 4 harnessbelts for sale.
They are red and have the adjuster grips. Used for one and a half seasons.
No cuts or fraying. Like new condition. Ends are correctly prebent for easy
installation. See http:///www.hmsmotorsport.com under "safety" for more
information. (Note: I do not have the adaptor bolts that may be required for
some seats. My '98 M3/2 w/manual seats couldn't use them.)

Belt sets are $300 new, these are yours for $150 including UPS ground
shipping.

I also have a harnessbar for an E36 coupe. (Not to be used with Rallye 4
belts, came from a different car.) It's two years old and was used perhaps a
dozen times. As new condition. See http:///www.hmsmotorsport.com under
"safety" for more information.

Harness bar is $400 new, this can be yours for $175 including UPS ground
shipping. (Save $15 and pick it up!)

Finally, I have a box of E36 M3 suspension parts - front struts, rear
shocks, front and rear springs, front spring plates, strut bearings, spring
pads, and so forth. With a couple of dollars worth of parts, the front
struts can be completely assembled. All this came from my '98 M3 when it had
less than 10k miles. Make me a reasonable offer.

Reply via private email if interested.

...ned.
'98 M3
'88 M5

______________________________________________
FREE Personalized Email at Mail.com
Sign up at http://www.mail.com?sr=mc.mk.mcm.tag001

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 21 Feb 2000 13:37:19 -0700
From: "Richard F. Viehdorfer" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [uuc] <E28> Shock/Spring discussion

I've recently been in a discussion with an esteemed technical member of this
forum regarding my E28 (we are going to be doing some extensive work here
shortly). I asked him about the practice of replacing springs and shocks
together, as was common advice in the early years of macpherson/chapman strut
designs. I also wanted to know, specifically, his shock recommendation. His
answers were the best I have ever gotten from anyone about this issue.

To paraphrase, he said it wasn't necessary to replace the springs unless there
was some obvious reason to. If the ride height is within specs, use the
original springs.

He also specifically recommended Bilstein HDs for the car. He indicated that
in Europe, the car would have come with them anyway. In his words "the shocks
that came with the car were mediocre" and he praised the HDs. He puts them on
every one of his personal bimmers.

He also said that there were a ton of other parts on this car's suspension
that should probably be inspected [and replaced] before you contemplate
replacing springs for no specific reason.

Having had more than my share of problems with the bad roads here in Colorado
(the roads back east are nowhere close to being this bad) I will buy the best
damn shock I can get my hands on, and that appears to the Bilstein HD. My
experience with european suspension designs indicate that the better the
shock, the better the suspension works. Any slight additional harshness is
usually eliminated by replacement of old or weak bushings. And besides, this
is a bimmer, not an olds cutlass supreme.....

Rick Viehdorfer
BMW CCA 148771
Rocky Mountain Chapter

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 21 Feb 2000 15:34:38 -0500
From: "Pat Donahue" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [uuc] My first driver's school

Do it all!  If you can do the HSS first you'll have more confidence at the
driver's school.  You'll learn significantly different things at each and
have fun with both.  Be careful though, it's highly addictive.  I think the
real reason they make you drive with your windows down is so they can flood
the track with some kind of chemical agent to make you keep coming back.
:-)

Oh yeah, and find yourself an autocross school too.  Once you know what
you're doing there the slushbox will help you concentrate on the line,
braking, and getting out of a corner.  You'll really learn what it means
when you hear "you have to go slow to go fast".

Funny thing is, all these things come together and soon will be just driving
to you.  You'll be able to anticipate trouble better and will have avoided
it long before you need to make a panic reaction.  If it happens really
close to you your panic reaction will most likely be right too.

I presume you know about car preparation for these events.  Make sure you
remove all the junk you won't need and prepare to protect the rest from odd
weather so you won't be worried about it if it rains.  Doing these schools
in the rain is big fun.

Geeeze
'88 325is SCCA ITS #88

- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Tim Taylor" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>


> Now, then, having never attended a driver's school would I be advised to
> attend the Highway Safety School first in order to learn some basics? Or
is
> that a waste of my time and $$? The wet skidpad and wet/dry braking
> excercises sound pretty interesting...
>
> Tim T
> whose only previous 'track' event was the one time he took his 1983 Dodge
> Shelby Charger to the SCCA autocross. I sucked. But it was cool to see all
> the fast Rabbit GTIs get the inside rear wheel off the ground!

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 21 Feb 2000 14:54:30 -0600
From: "Thi & Erika VanAusdal" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: RE: [uuc] <2002> Alternator and rear axle questions

If you've been inundated by answers already, delete now.

Disconnect the plug at the old regulator.  Of the 3 wires
going from the alternator to the regulator, only the blue
one goes on to the dash light.  I'm not sure how the blue
wire would affect the voltage control, so I'd disconnect
to be safe.

You can snip the blue wire at the back of the plug at
the alternator, but that's a little bit permanent.  I find
it easier to just put in a 1" jumper wire with a male spade
on one end, a female on the other, and keep the original
wiring harness intact.  That assumes the wiring isn't frayed,
in which case you can do whatever refurbishing you want.

I'd look at E30 318i (M10-motor) parts for the sprocketed
adjuster.  I know the M20 (325e/325i) had similar.

The open-box (non-tii?) semi-trailing arms are identical, 
to my eye, although the stub axles are different b/c later
years didn't have the extra holes for U-jointed halfshafts.
There were actually 10 holes in early stub axles to allow
fitting either u-joints or CV joints.

 -Thi VanAusdal


> 
> Dear digesters
>       How do I bypass the external regulator on a 2002 when 
> installing a 65amp
> 320i alternator. I've read to connect the blue wire from the regulator
> harness to the B+ terminal. Is this correct? Just leave the 
> old regulator
> alone or disconnect the plug?
>       I really like the later style of adjuster with the 
> "turn the bolt"
> adjustment. Which model has one that will fit a regular 02 setup?

>       In reading my Parts CD,it appears that when the change 
> happened from long
> neck diff to short neck, the rear axle carrier changed 
> obviously but the
> part number for the trailing arms is the same. Is this correct?
> I'm thinking of installing the 390 320is limited slip in my 
> car. My long
> neck 411 limited slip still works fine but the sliding section in my
> driveshaft is showing its age. I get a mild noise in that 
> area between coast
> and power on. I got a short neck driveshaft to shorten for my 
> 5 speed, the
> diff and half shafts etc from the wrecked 320. I'd like the 
> slightly taller
> gearing, God knows I got the power to make it work. Want 
> better mileage and
> quiet in my old age. It may be easier than finding a long 
> neck driveshaft
> with a good sliding section.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 21 Feb 2000 21:10:51 GMT
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: [uuc] <M20> Exhaust manifold stud problem

Houston we have a problem. The 525e needed a new downpipe and my mechanic had a 
devil of a job getting the exhaust manifold off, one of the studs broke leaving 
most of itself in the block!

They managed to get it out and were quite proud of themselves as they didn't 
remove the head. Problem is I am getting a loud puffing noise under 
acceleration. I though it was bad valve tick and feared the cam had worn (car 
has 160K miles). Turns out the stud isn't gripping well enough and hence not 
holding the exhaust manifold against the head.

They want to remove the head and weld it, I'm NOT losing coolant and it's only 
minor damage. I would take the head off myself (first time for everything but I 
need to fit a new cambelt anyway) to save cash but it's still a hassle.

Can I use JB Weld (never tried it) or similar to hold a sleeve into the block 
and then use a sub-size bolt and washer to solve my problem? Any ideas?

- --
Who needs a life when you've got Unix? :-)   
Email: [EMAIL PROTECTED], John G.Burns B.Eng, Bonny Scotland
Web  : http://www.unixnerd.demon.co.uk - The Ultimate BMW Homepage!

------------------------------

End of [uucdigest] V3 #304
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