[uucdigest] Monday, February 21 2000 Volume 03 : Number 305 ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ | For all available Digest commands including unsubscribe/subscribe, | visit the BMW UUC Digest page: http://www.uucdigest.com | Send SUBMISSIONS to [EMAIL PROTECTED] | Complaints? Send 'em to [EMAIL PROTECTED] if you must. | Visit http://www.bubbaclub.com | www.bimmers.com - "serving enthusiasts on the 'net" | Visit http://www.bimmer.org - ultimate BMW bulletin boards! | Subscribe to the Zionsville Autosport Parts Digest: | http://www.zionsvilleautosport.com/majordomo.htm ����������������������������������������� In this BMW UUC Digest: [uuc] Re:Subject: M50 Camshaft removal [uuc] 540iA on the track [uuc] Fixing holes in interior console? [uuc] E30 oil all inside intake RE: [uuc] <M20> Exhaust manifold stud problem [uuc] <FS> E30 parts, E28/E30 Alarm, E34 differential [uuc] <E28> Non-start cured [uuc] Z8 sighting Re: [uuc] <M20> Exhaust manifold stud problem [uuc] Harness Mounting w/roll and stock seats [uuc] NCC Track Time RE: [uuc] Misc, e-28 [uuc] Parts FS - cleaning shop [uuc] Automatic at driving school [uuc] Sebring construction photos [uuc] POPPING NOISE FROM WINDOW ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Mon, 21 Feb 2000 16:19:41 -0400 From: bob rosa <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] Re:Subject: M50 Camshaft removal Steve Boorman wrote: Date: Mon, 21 Feb 2000 10:07:41 +0100 From: "Steve Boorman" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] M50 Camshaft removal Has anybody had experience removing the camshafts in a M50 engine without using the special BMW tool for holding the bearing caps down? My previous experience with other engines has been to release the bearing cap retainers evenly but the Bently book strongly advises against this. Any ideas/experiences welcome. Regards, Steve Boorman - - ------------------- MY EXPERIENCE - Re-installing the camshaft may be more of a concern than removing it. Last year a local (non-authorized) BMW shop here in Cambridge, MA, removed one of my camshafts to replace a bent exhaust valve (M50 engine). While replacing the camshaft the mechanic cracked it. They did not use the BMW specified tool but swore they were following "standard procedure". They were crazy enough to try and convince me that this happens all the time and, that I should pay for the replacement part, at their cost price of course. Needless to say I didn't buy the argument or the part. Check with a Service Manager or mechanic at a shop you trust. If I'm not mistaken, Bentley mentions using a BMW special tool for camshaft removal. Don't know if this is necessary or what the item costs. Good Luck, Bob Rosa 1992 325i, non-VANOS ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 21 Feb 2000 16:25:54 -0500 From: Eric Carnell <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] 540iA on the track Hi all, I'm catching up and I know this thread is a bit old, but this might be helpful... I drove my 540iA on the track 5 times before getting the M3. The 540iA is a good car to learn with because you don't have to worry about heel and toe, etc. You also can feel the weight of the car leaning and it gives you good feedback to learning to control your chassis. I would not recommend keeping it in the automatic mode, however. Put it in manual mode and shift between M2 and M3. That's all you'll need up to 115 mph. Beyond that you can try M4 but it's such a big jump in gearing that the car sits there and very slowly starts to accelerate again. I didn't have enough time on the main straight to make the shift worthwhile. Coming into the turn just pull back into M2 once the revs are low enough (under 65 mph). Don't worry, the rev limiter will not downshift until it is safe. There will be a delay until the car actually downshifts so wait for the actual shift until turning. If not, the car will downshift in the turn and cause your rear end to break loose. Also, watch the brakes. The 540 has excellent brakes but it is a heavy car. Since you're not racing, consider not quite threshold braking to save yourself from warped rotors. Also, don't buy track tires. You'll be slower, safer, and learn more on street tires. But inflate those fronts much more than the backs (42 front, 36 back) to help balance the car and decrease outer edge scrub. Hope this helps. - --Eric Carnell '99 M3 '95 540iA (for sale) '91 M5 ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 21 Feb 2000 16:29:21 -0500 From: Eric Carnell <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] Fixing holes in interior console? Hi all, My "new" '91 M5 came with an aftermarket phone in the center console (complete with holes). I know there must be some sort of repair material for filling the holes and then respraying the gray color. Anyone have some details for me? - --Eric Carnell NCC '91 M5 '95 540iA '99 M3 ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 21 Feb 2000 16:32:59 EST From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [uuc] E30 oil all inside intake When I went to replace the air filter the other day I removed the assembly up to the throttle body. Then, I noticed that the intake bellows and AFM had oil all over inside of them. I opened the throttle body, shined a flashlight in, and there's oil coating everything in there. I know this isn't normal, it didn't do this before. There was even a couple spots on the air filter. I've got to get all this stuff fixed, there's a driving school coming up that I've been holding my registration for. Thanks, Cam 87 325 (e) ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 21 Feb 2000 16:38:51 -0500 From: "Cagann, Alexander" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: RE: [uuc] <M20> Exhaust manifold stud problem > Houston we have a problem. The 525e needed a new downpipe and > my mechanic had a > devil of a job getting the exhaust manifold off, one of the > studs broke leaving > most of itself in the block! I would timecert a new stud, AT THEIR EXPENSE. What are they going to weld??? Seems like a half-assed way to do it. This area has, of course, extreme heat...and with that, extreme temperature changes...and quickly. I would repair this the correct way. Alex Cagann 88///M5 ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 21 Feb 2000 13:50:32 -0800 (PST) From: Kyle <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] <FS> E30 parts, E28/E30 Alarm, E34 differential 325I E30/ 528, 535I E28 alarm - Factory alarm that wires into existing wiring harnesses. Flashes lights, honks horn, and disables ignition. Will work with auxiliary system i.e. $30 JC Whitney unit to open doors by remote. New. $110 E30 325I factory exhaust - 5 k miles, perfect - $100 E30 325is cam - perfect for 325e cam upgrade, 60 k miles, shows no wear - $110 E30 control arm bushings - New $30 E30 "is" suspension - rear shocks, springs, and sway bars - only 60kmiles. $125 E30 drivers side Bronze rear view mirror - perfect - $10 E30 Silver/black drivers side door molding - $5 E30 OEM passenger side grille - $5 E30 Drivers side window for a two door - $25 E30 power window motor, rack, door lock module, and wiring harness from 88 325 is - $10 E34 3.73 Differential for 89/90 525I 5 speed and 535I 5 speed, perfect less than 65k miles, non limited slip - - $190 Let me know if you have any questions on any of these items. I am located in Northern Virginia. -Kyle __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Talk to your friends online with Yahoo! Messenger. http://im.yahoo.com ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 21 Feb 2000 21:49:13 GMT From: "John G.Burns" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] <E28> Non-start cured Posting this in case it helps anyone else. The prob: '87 525e M20 turned over but wouldn't start. Good spark and fuel flow, car used to run perfectly. The cure: Bad solder joint on output transistor found on the DME. - -- Who needs a life when you've got Unix? :-) Email: [EMAIL PROTECTED], John G.Burns B.Eng, Bonny Scotland Web : http://www.unixnerd.demon.co.uk - The Ultimate BMW Homepage! ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 21 Feb 2000 13:55:03 -0800 From: Ken Lam <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] Z8 sighting A digester posted that he saw a Z8 tooling around on the 101 in Los Angeles. I just had a similar but more exciting experience this weekend. I was passed by a Z8 on the Angeles Crest Highway this Saturday. The car had European plates so I knew it was one of the press cars that BMW has. As I was coming down Big Tijunga I saw the car off the side of the road and the occupants were talking to the local sheriff. I stopped and checked out the car. I missed the LA Auto show so this was the first time I have seen this car in person. OH MAI GAWD! This is one fantastic piece of machinery. I am not really a big fan of big heavy cars but the Z8 has got to be an exception. I got the driver to open the hood, both the driver and passenger were from some German automotive television show, and there nestled between the two shock towers was the mighty V8 of the M5. The engine compartment wasn't as plasticky and drab as I had feared but still not as impressive as something from, say, an Alfa Romeo. The trunk was quite small but very well lined. One could probably fit two golf bags in there. Sitting inside the car one has to marvel at how well put together this car is. The doors felt like they carved from a solid ingot of steel. They were very solid and closed with a thunk. The radio hides behind an aluminum flip up door, very discreet. The intrument cluster is very clean. A way better design execution than that of the Boxster. The top of the dash and center console was finished in aluminum. The seats firm and comfortable but they were not heavily bolstered. Very much in the same comfort level as those found on the M*rcedes SLs. One can certainly spend a whole day driving in them. There is a beautiful aluminum dead pedal for those forturnate enough to own a Z8 to rest their Cole Haans. I have not seen an E39 M5 in person so I don't know if this is the same dead pedal. The steering wheel looks very retro and is a perfect compliment to the interior. The airbag hub is very tiny. I don't know if this item will come on the US cars because of this small and less powerful airbag. I shure hope that BMW finds a way to keep this steering wheel on the car. There is a large starter button positioned right below the ignition switch. Very cool. There are not a lot of switches in the cockpit but there is one very important one that stands out, the sport switch right below the hidden radio. This car wears massive 245s in the front and 275s in the rear. The cameraman told me that this is the best car that BMW has put out in recent years and he has driven all of them. I asked him how it compared to other supercars that he has driven and he told me he did prefer the P*rsche 911 because he felt that it was a simpler car!!??? (doesn't P*rsche have PSM and other electronic gadgets?) He told me where the press cars were being staged and I made my way over there after this encounter ended. There I saw about 8 other Z8s zipping in and out of the parking lot. There was a huge fuel tanker refueling the cars as they came in. There was a red Z8 on display and I thought this car was even more beautiful than the first. The dash on this car had a black piano finish. It looked very good offsetting the red exterior. There was a plaque stating a 0-60 time of 4.7 secs. Wow. Sorry for the long post but I just wanted to share with you my experience of one of the most desirable cars on the road today. If you can afford it, I would get a deposit down on this car, it is one sweet ride not likely to be topped for some time to come. Now I need to figure out how much I could get for my kidney... - -- '87 325is The past is over, learn from it. The future is coming, prepare for it. The present is here, enjoy it. [EMAIL PROTECTED] ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 21 Feb 2000 15:54:20 -0600 (CST) From: Jefrem Iwaniw <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [uuc] <M20> Exhaust manifold stud problem On Mon, 21 Feb 2000 [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: > Houston we have a problem. The 525e needed a new downpipe and my > mechanic had a devil of a job getting the exhaust manifold off, > one of the studs broke leaving most of itself in the block! <snip> > Turns out the stud isn't gripping well enough and hence not > holding the exhaust manifold against the head. Use a helicoil. But, you'll likely need to remove the head to do this correctly, unless the stud in question doesn't enter into any coolant/oil passages (wouldn't want any aluminium shavings from the helicoil installation getting in there). - -jefrem ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 21 Feb 2000 16:00:56 -0600 From: "Bob Keegan" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] Harness Mounting w/roll and stock seats I recently ordered my roll bar from TC Kline and have a few questions about mounting 3" harnesses with stock seats in a 98 M3. I was wondering if anyone has used 6 pt with the sub belts attached to the lap mounting pts (your legs would then sit on the sub belt and then wrap up to the lock)? Would this be a safe practice or do you need to cut the slot in the seat extension? If I choose to cut the seat extension does anyone have a good source in the Chicagoland area? I wish I could swap out the seat but that is not in the cards at this time. Any ideas/comments would be appreciated. Thanks, Bob Keegan 98 M3 ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 21 Feb 2000 17:02:27 -0500 From: "Duane Collie" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] NCC Track Time > Yea Yea, I hear ya, talk is cheap, the first school is April, you signed up > yet. Or are you still asleep in the bedroom on wheels! Just waitin' to see > the "Seven Sled" in my mirrors! > Chuck > '90 ///M3 Oh yeah....right-o Chuck! My 4,400 lb. car slingin' around on the Jefferson ??!!!! The rotors would M-E-L-T. I need a bit more space, like the REAL track, not that kiddie course you widdle 4-cyl. cars like to play on <g>. Besides, I'll still be recovering from having Amanda as my student at the Autocross School the weekend before. Ya'll remember the Amanda stories from last fall, right? Well, she's been promised to me as a student (...burp...). I can't wait. - - Duane Collie The Seven Sled ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 21 Feb 2000 17:39:33 -0500 From: "Karl Zemlin" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: RE: [uuc] Misc, e-28 If the car's ride height is normal, the springs are fine. Springs won't change for part of the stroke without the entire working length of the spring being effected. If the springs are losing their pep, they'll start sagging. Springs that will support the car at the proper ride height are good for the full stroke. > -----Original Message----- > From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED] > Sent: Monday, February 21, 2000 12:53 PM > To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > Subject: [uuc] Misc, e-28 > > > Does anyone know where I can get a set of stock springs for me 87 > 535is? The > dealer price was over $110 per spring! I really don't want to > lower the car, > yet I'm sure after 13 years on the road and 185,000 miles the > stockers need > replaced. I'll be install HD Bilstiens at the same time. > I want to donate my TRX wheels to my kids school recycling > program, but need > to know the aluminum content of them. Any info on this? > Thanks in advance. > John Lassiter > > ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 21 Feb 2000 17:48:47 -0500 From: "James Clay" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] Parts FS - cleaning shop We are in the process of cleaning out some of the stuff that has been in the shop too long. Below are some of the specially priced items: E28/23/24 3.3 engine, fresh rebuild, $700 E28/23/24 3.5 engines, 140k-160k, $500 E28 535 auto transmission, $300 E28 Eibach springs - $150 E28 535i muffler, almost new ANSA, $150 E28 doors, $150 complete E30 mufflers, almost new ANSA, nice factory, nice Bosal, $75-150 16x7.5 wheels, E30 M3 or E28 with 5mm spacers, Konig 5-spoke, $400 E23 interiors - tan or black, excellent condition, whole or will part E36 M3 wing, montreal blue, $250 E36 325 vanos motor, 74k, $1500 E36/E34 325/525 non-vanos motor, 61k, $1500 E34 dark tan leather interior, whole or will part Please email or call for more information. James http://www.bimmerworld.com Quality Used BMW Parts Engineered BMW Performance (540) 639-9648 ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 21 Feb 2000 17:51:41 -0500 From: "Henry Caldwell" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] Automatic at driving school Tim T wrote: "OK, so everyone sez driver's school is worth it even in my slushbox equipped E34 540i :)......." Its my most humbled opinion that if its your first driving school, it will be such a humbling experience that you may be glad its an automatic. On my first day,its was amazing that I did not rip the steering wheel from the steering column, going down the long straight doing 100+ mph, realizing I need to brake hard in a straight line, downshift one gear at a time and keep the car balance through the curve. Then, follow the line and listen to my instructor........ say " you need to let these bimwads behind you pass ... again. Now after learning a thing or two on the first day, the second day will likely have that bimmer of yours humming around the track and responding like she was made to..... eager and willingly. Henry 92 325i modified and 1 driving school, which is was the best mod of all. ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 21 Feb 2000 17:50:07 -0500 From: John Sabatini <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] Sebring construction photos Stopped by Sebring on my way from Palm Beach back to Tampa last Friday to check out the progress of the construction of the pits and new hotel. A lot of progress has been made, but still looks like a lot more work to do in the next few weeks. I took some pictures of the construction and they have been posted to a web site by Joe Favata who I "met" on the PSCR forum. Check out his web site at http://www.endurancesportscar.com John Sabatini Florida Suncoast Chapter '90 325iS '90 325iC ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 21 Feb 2000 15:26:59 PST From: "Jan Redovich" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] POPPING NOISE FROM WINDOW Hi, Everyone, I have that too, from not too long ago on the driver's side rear door. It appears under medium to hard acceleration and braking (sounds less serious when braking). It is directly proportionate to acceleration (louder under hard accel). Sounds like a metallic knock. The car is an 85 535i. From what I can tell, it's not related to window, nor the door placement. I had window partially and fully open to no avail. Same thing with the door. It still did it when the door was fully open. Anyone has a fix for above problem? Jan. 85 535i with popping window P.S. For now the temp solution's been to turn up radio a notch or two. ______________________________________________________ Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com ------------------------------ End of [uucdigest] V3 #305 ************************** _________________________________________ | Please visit these UUC-approved BMW parts vendors/service providers: | (listed alphabetically) | Bonneville Motorwerks . http://www.bonnevillemotorwerks.com | Circle Tire Co. (used & classic BMW parts) e-mail [EMAIL PROTECTED] | Curry's Auto Service . http://www.currysauto.com | Eurosport . http://www.eurosport-hp.com | Koala MotorSport . http://www.koalamotorsport.com | Taylor BMW - http://www.taylorbmw.com - Doc Bimmer! | The Ultimate Garage . http://www.ultimategarage.com | UUC Motorwerks . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com | Zionsville Autosport . http://www.zionsvilleautosport.com ����������������������������������������
