[uucdigest] Tuesday, February 22 2000 Volume 03 : Number 306 ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ | For all available Digest commands including unsubscribe/subscribe, | visit the BMW UUC Digest page: http://www.uucdigest.com | Send SUBMISSIONS to [EMAIL PROTECTED] | Complaints? Send 'em to [EMAIL PROTECTED] if you must. | Visit http://www.bubbaclub.com | www.bimmers.com - "serving enthusiasts on the 'net" | Visit http://www.bimmer.org - ultimate BMW bulletin boards! | Subscribe to the Zionsville Autosport Parts Digest: | http://www.zionsvilleautosport.com/majordomo.htm ����������������������������������������� In this BMW UUC Digest: [uuc] UUC Shifter: Which one? [uuc] Re: info on Mobile Traditions parts CD BA [uuc] Re: M50 Camshaft removal Re: [uuc] UUC Shifter: Which one? [uuc] re: <OT> slide show screen saver ?? [uuc] Fixing holes in interior console? [uuc] NJ @ Summit Re: [uuc] NJ @ Summit [uuc] <2002> Alternator and rear axle questions [uuc] It's just blow-by [uuc] Fw: PEI Investigating Vehicle Refueling Fires [uuc] Harnesses w/Stock Seats Re: [uuc] <M20> Exhaust manifold stud problem [uuc] M50 Motor For Sale ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Mon, 21 Feb 2000 18:56:54 EST From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [uuc] UUC Shifter: Which one? I think it is time for a new shifter. I have heard only good things about the shifter sold by UUC Motorwerks. I was looking at their web page, and can't really decide which one to get. Of course, if money wasn't an issue I would go all out and get the Competition-Evo, but unfortunately being a 16 year old kid, money is an issue. I tried to figure out which one would be the best, but figured I would rather hear it from someone who already has one. Thanks Milo 95 M3 ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 21 Feb 2000 19:28:58 -0500 From: "Brett Anderson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] Re: info on Mobile Traditions parts CD BA The CD is the same program your dealer uses except it only covers older cars. Yes, the E30 is covered. You can buy it from your dealer, list price is around $40. Brett Anderson www.koalamotorsport.com Home of the E30 M3 CD-ROM repair manual > From: "Chuck MacWilliam" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > Subject: [uuc] info on Mobile Traditions parts CD > > Does the Mobile Traditions Parts CD-ROM list every single nut, screw, and > bolt, or just basic parts? Moreover, if one is available for a 1985 325e, > how can I get it? TIA. > > Chuck MacWilliam ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 21 Feb 2000 19:31:11 -0500 From: "Brett Anderson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] Re: M50 Camshaft removal I strongly recommend against it. The M42/44/50/52 cams are hollow. I've seen professional techs break these cams when removing them, and they know the risks. I have the tool for this job, it costs about $500 but I'm sure I could rent it to you for a little less than that. Brett Anderson www.koalamotorsport.com Home of the E30 M3 CD-ROM repair manual > From: "Steve Boorman" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > Subject: [uuc] M50 Camshaft removal > > Has anybody had experience removing the camshafts in a M50 engine > without using the special BMW tool for holding the bearing caps > down? > > Steve Boorman ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 21 Feb 2000 16:44:22 -0800 (PST) From: John Stoj <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [uuc] UUC Shifter: Which one? My first suggestion would be to just call UUC. The guys there are very helpful and they will point you to the right shifter for you. That said, I'd have to go for the competition EVO. I have the non-evo with the ERK and it's great. I would go with the best one they make - don't buy any comic books for a few weeks and you should make up the difference. Then take a break from the Mountain Dew you sixteen year olds drink constantly for a few more weeks and get yourself a Rob-knob EVO. You won't regret it. - - John _______________________________________________________ Get 100% FREE Internet Access powered by Excite Visit http://freeworld.excite.com ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 21 Feb 2000 20:18:50 -0500 From: "rc" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] re: <OT> slide show screen saver ?? Try www.screensavershot.com . may have what you're looking for. And some great free screensavers. ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 21 Feb 2000 20:40:18 -0500 From: Mark Borchik <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] Fixing holes in interior console? Check with your local auto dealer used car department managers. There are vendors that travel lot-to-lot, effecting repairs on cigarette-burned seats/headliners, mounting holes in consoles, and spray-dyeing leather seats in wear areas. I was a used car manager, and can tell you that it is a booming business, and the results are excellent. Reconditioning interior blemishes like these allows high-line used cars to maintain their resale value, and was a lot more cost effective measure than having to replace consoles, or recover seats. Mark Borchik > My "new" '91 M5 came with an aftermarket phone in the center console > (complete with holes). I know there must be some sort of repair > material for filling the holes and then respraying the gray color. > Anyone have some details for me? > - --Eric Carnell > ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 21 Feb 2000 21:02:20 -0400 From: Steven Schlossman <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] NJ @ Summit Chuck, I did mention to you that the NJ Chapter was doing a 3 day school in May at Summit? Two days on the Jeff, one on the main track. I signed up already. I'm a glutan for punishment. ..steven ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 21 Feb 2000 21:23:03 -0400 From: Steven Schlossman <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [uuc] NJ @ Summit Oooops! I could have sworn I caught this before it went out. Obviously it was a private reply. ...steven ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 21 Feb 2000 21:40:59 EST From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [uuc] <2002> Alternator and rear axle questions The control arms for the long neck set up on 2002 and 1600's is in fact different. There are several different arms for the long neck set up. One of them is nearly identical to the 2002 short neck type arms but has a different bushing on the swing part of the arm. The bushing on this one looks and is different. Dimensionally the arm is different from a 2002 one. A later long neck one will in fact fit a short neck set up and has the same bushings. Michel ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 21 Feb 2000 19:20:58 -0800 From: "J. Brian Kissel" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] It's just blow-by Some what normal for a higher milage motor as the rings wear or if the car is not warming up everytime you drive it. If your worried get a leak down test performed. Date: Sun, 20 Feb 2000 22:14:35 -0600 From: Scott Ferguson <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] <e28> oil in inside of intake Howdy, Gents. I was replacing a fuel hose this weekend, and when I took off the rubber intake bellows I noticed a fine film of oil inside the air meter and the throttle body. I don't remember seeing anything but dry metal before now. Anyone got any clues as to what's happening here? I can't imagine that it's a good thing. The car runs strong and burns only about 1/2 quart every 3,000 miles. As a side note, the chassis turned over 250,000 miles this weekend. The engine's just a baby at 90,000 miles. Scott ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 21 Feb 2000 21:25:28 -0600 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [uuc] Fw: PEI Investigating Vehicle Refueling Fires Scary for those living in areas of low humidity. ================== Requests Information from TulsaLetter Readers <../Forms/refueling.htm> The dispensing of gasoline into the fuel tank of a motor vehicle is a safe operation. Americans pump gasoline into their cars between 16 and 18 billion times a year generally without incident. The oil companies' track record in this regard is enviable. I am now in my twenty-second year at PEI. Up until September, the only refueling fires that were reported to me were caused either by an open flame (smoking), lack of electrical continuity between the nozzle and the grounded dispenser, or a spark from the engine compartment (motor running). <<...>> However, within the last five months 36 ignitions of gasoline vapors during the refueling of motor vehicles at service stations have been verbally reported to us at PEI. All occurred during exceptionally dry weather. There were no open flames and the engines were turned off. Continuity was verified between the nozzle and dispenser. PEI members, oil companies and fire authorities that investigated the cause of these accidents concluded that in 100 percent of the cases static electricity was the source of ignition. People familiar with these accidents were surprised when they first learned about them and have become increasingly concerned about the number of fires that have occurred over time. These fires raise questions about why they are occurring now and didn't occur in the past. They include: * Fuel chemistry Has the chemical composition of gasoline changed in a way that the conductivity of the fuel has also changed? * Finish of the driveway or forecourt Is the paved surface of the refueling area sufficiently dissipative? * Tires Tires are being made with less carbon (conductive) and more silica (non-conductive). Does this make a difference? * Electrically insulated conductive components Are all conductive parts, and in particular all metal parts, in the area of the vehicle's tank system connected in an electrostatically dissipative manner so that the insulated conductors are not a source of ignition? We hear that this can be a problem even if the vehicle is grounded. * Plastic filler inlets Today, some fuel tank filler necks are made of non-conductive plastics with a metal trapdoor opening. Some are connected to molded fiberglass fuel tanks. Could refueling transmit a charge to the insulated plastic filler neck that, in turn, might cause a spark to jump to the grounded nozzle? * Customers re-entering their vehicles during refueling An electrostatic charge is generated through friction between clothing and the car seat to such an extent that electrostatic discharges to the vehicle body or to the filling nozzle are possible, especially if the motorist is wearing rubber-soled shoes. A Midwestern oil company warned of this hazard in a November 24, 1999, memo to its dealers, sellers and jobbers stating that ". . .a flash fire can result from this discharge if sufficient flammable vapors are present. Therefore, customers should be discouraged from re-entering their vehicles while fueling is underway." About half of the fires that have been reported to PEI involved the motorist re-entering the vehicle at some point during the refueling process. Unfortunately, we don't have any definitive answers. We are willing, however, to collect information on similar incidents so the industry can get a better handle on the cause(s) of the problem. If you are aware of refueling fires presumably caused by static electricity, we would like to know about them. Include as much detail as possible to help us understand what happened. Please include the make, model and year of the vehicle, the type of fuel used, type of tires and driveway finish, customer action while refueling, and any other information that you believe would be useful. The information we receive in response to this request will be summarized and made available, upon request, to TulsaLetter readers. No oil company or PEI member names will be divulged. All responses will be confidential. Please direct your correspondence or telephone responses on this issue to Bob Renkes <mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]> at PEI. <<...>> ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 21 Feb 2000 22:36:31 -0500 From: "Duane Collie" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] Harnesses w/Stock Seats >I recently ordered my roll bar from TC Kline and have a few questions about >mounting 3" harnesses with stock seats in a 98 M3. I was wondering if >anyone has used 6 pt with the sub belts attached to the lap mounting pts >(your legs would then sit on the sub belt and then wrap up to the lock)? >Would this be a safe practice or do you need to cut the slot in the seat >extension? If I choose to cut the seat extension does anyone have a good >source in the Chicagoland area? I wish I could swap out the seat but that >is not in the cards at this time. Any ideas/comments would be appreciated. >Bob Keegan >98 M3 Bob, You're not going to find a lot of info on this out there. Many of the guys installing bars go ahead and swap the seats, but I did keep my stockers when I went this route and came up with a viable solution. First off, there's no sense mounting belts incorrectly...so if you do it, you need to do it right. That means a sub belt, and a 6-point sub belt at that. A 5-point (single sub) simply can't be used CORRECTLY with the stock seats due to the sliding thigh bolster. Determine you mounting points for the main lap belts. Use Clip-ins and Eyebolts here. These will not be where the seat mounts to the floor, you're actually going a couple of inches behind them. Drill the holes for the laps being careful to avoid the brake lines running in the trans tunnel area. It's best to make sure your outboard belt has it's backing plate on the flats - as on an E36 if you get too far out, you'll be on the curve of the floorpan. I suggest determining location from the bottom of the floor and drilling UP, not vice versa. Once you have your holes drilled, use 3M "Dum-Dum" to seal the plates, not silicone sealant (which is water-loving and promotes rust). Undercoat with 3M you can get in a spray can. The sub belt is a bitch to install. But you need to have it to keep the main lap belt from riding up into the soft part of your gut in an accident. Here's what I did, and it helps tremendously to have a pneumatic die grinder to hog out the plastic: Slice the leather 'pocket' flap that covers the thigh bolster extension. Follow the seams that BMW put in there. I tried to simply rip the seam using a sewing seam ripper and gave up after a half hour and went to the razor blade. You can always resew this seam at some later date, too. Once you have that leather open (and it WILL hurt to cut it), then you can really have some fun. Now you need to hog out the plastic (with the die grinder) on each side of the metal thigh bolster, and make it a larger oval opening that will be big enough on each side to get the sub belt fully in and out. There's a lot of plastic there so it will be messy. Nothing critical to hit, just plastic grids. Once you have that open you can feed the belts in. Take the front of the 2-part sub and go to the front seat mounting bolts with it. Undo the bolt and that is where you'll place the end of the sub (don't use clip-on subs, get hard-mounts). HOWEVER.....before the end of the belt simply bolts on, you'll need to remove 1" of the inner edge of vertical of the seat channel for clearance. Again, I went to the die grinder for this. Once that's done, you can bolt up the belt. With this installation, you can stuff the belt into the holes when street driving, and still close the thigh bolster to keep a sanitary look. When at the track, you'll find the sub goes almost straight down from your crotch, like a good sub belt installation is supposed to do. I used Schroth's Competition Cam Locks from HMS Motorsports for my belts, and was real happy with them. TC's bar can be installed easily, especially if you know the tricks. There a Roundel Article on installation I wrote last year....forgot which month.....but we learned a lot from the first one we did which I wrote down in the piece. - - Duane Collie The Seven Sled ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 21 Feb 2000 23:45:02 -0500 From: Andrew Taylor <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [uuc] <M20> Exhaust manifold stud problem I'm assuming it's an M6 stud. Go buy the helicoil 6mm by 1.00 pitch kit, a 1/4" cobalt drill bit, a 90 degree attachment for your drill and be careful not to drill too far. Throw in the helicoil with a little loctite and put the new stud in. A little high temp copper gasket spray on the gaskets can't hurt either. Andrew, 8000rpm S14 eats studs. [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: > > Houston we have a problem. The 525e needed a new downpipe and my mechanic had a > devil of a job getting the exhaust manifold off, one of the studs broke leaving > most of itself in the block! > > They managed to get it out and were quite proud of themselves as they didn't > remove the head. Problem is I am getting a loud puffing noise under > acceleration. I though it was bad valve tick and feared the cam had worn (car > has 160K miles). Turns out the stud isn't gripping well enough and hence not > holding the exhaust manifold against the head. > > They want to remove the head and weld it, I'm NOT losing coolant and it's only > minor damage. I would take the head off myself (first time for everything but I > need to fit a new cambelt anyway) to save cash but it's still a hassle. > > Can I use JB Weld (never tried it) or similar to hold a sleeve into the block > and then use a sub-size bolt and washer to solve my problem? Any ideas? > > -- > Who needs a life when you've got Unix? :-) > Email: [EMAIL PROTECTED], John G.Burns B.Eng, Bonny Scotland > Web : http://www.unixnerd.demon.co.uk - The Ultimate BMW Homepage! ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 22 Feb 2000 00:28:32 EST From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [uuc] M50 Motor For Sale I still have an M50 motor out of a '93 325i. It has Vanos, and has 83,XXX miles on it. It includes everything, ie. ECU, injectors, alternator, harness, airbox, etc. Was going into E30 project car, but the motor and car have to go to finish up school. The motor is located just outside of Chicago. Asking $1800 obo. Bob [EMAIL PROTECTED] 630.697.4540 ------------------------------ End of [uucdigest] V3 #306 ************************** _________________________________________ | Please visit these UUC-approved BMW parts vendors/service providers: | (listed alphabetically) | Bonneville Motorwerks . http://www.bonnevillemotorwerks.com | Circle Tire Co. (used & classic BMW parts) e-mail [EMAIL PROTECTED] | Curry's Auto Service . http://www.currysauto.com | Eurosport . http://www.eurosport-hp.com | Koala MotorSport . http://www.koalamotorsport.com | Taylor BMW - http://www.taylorbmw.com - Doc Bimmer! | The Ultimate Garage . http://www.ultimategarage.com | UUC Motorwerks . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com | Zionsville Autosport . http://www.zionsvilleautosport.com ����������������������������������������
