[uucdigest] Tuesday, February 22 2000 Volume 03 : Number 308 ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ | For all available Digest commands including unsubscribe/subscribe, | visit the BMW UUC Digest page: http://www.uucdigest.com | Send SUBMISSIONS to [EMAIL PROTECTED] | Complaints? Send 'em to [EMAIL PROTECTED] if you must. | Visit http://www.bubbaclub.com | www.bimmers.com - "serving enthusiasts on the 'net" | Visit http://www.bimmer.org - ultimate BMW bulletin boards! | Subscribe to the Zionsville Autosport Parts Digest: | http://www.zionsvilleautosport.com/majordomo.htm ����������������������������������������� In this BMW UUC Digest: [uuc] S-38 engine for sale (not mine) [uuc] <All> Carfax Re: [uuc] <M20> Exhaust manifold stud problem [uuc] UUC Shifter/Mountain Dew Re: [uuc] <M20> Exhaust manifold stud problem [uuc] In car video web pages [uuc] Re: Driving/shifting question [uuc] Great road! [uuc] <E30> won't go into first gear Re: [uuc] <M20> Exhaust manifold stud problem Re: [uuc] My first driver's school Re: [uuc] My first driver's school Re: [uuc] <E30> won't go into first gear Re: [uuc] My first driver's school ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Tue, 22 Feb 2000 07:38:29 -0500 From: ben keyes <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] S-38 engine for sale (not mine) from the www.bimmer.org E28 M5 message board : "i have disassembled engine needs to be rebuilt (head has been recond ,guides,valves,seats) euro header, harness, 2 cranks 10 piston & rods was my e30 project if you have any ? e-mail to [EMAIL PROTECTED] " http://www.bimmer.org/e28m5/messages/messages/102.html I wanted just the headers, but he's only selling it all as a set - $3,000. no affiliation, yada, yada - -- Ben Keyes '99 M coupe '88 M5 - wants euro headers ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 22 Feb 2000 07:54:42 -0500 From: "Lowe, Daniel" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] <All> Carfax WOW!! There are a lot of people on this list with access to Carfax. Thank you to all who responded and especially to Jack Money. He had the fastest fingers and was nice enough to offer his time and account to anyone on the list that needed it. This is a great community. Sincerely, Daniel L. Lowe BMWCCA #93878 '87 325is ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 21 Feb 2000 17:01:25 -0600 From: "Christian Els" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [uuc] <M20> Exhaust manifold stud problem Actually the _correct_ way to fix this kind of booboo <technical term> is to weld in new material with similar properties (ideally the same material) and tap the filled hole to original spec. The precautions here with an aluminum head are: 1.) Watch proximity to the deck surface that you don't warp it the sealing face; 2.) Be extremely careful that the new hole gets tapped square to the surface. On an exhaust manifold the latter isn't so critical but on a cam bearing tower this is absolutely essential to normal cam wear and performance. Alternately, a TimeSert or even a helicoil is a reasonable quick-fix, provided you aren't going endurance racing. $0.02 tiAn 94 325i w/stuff - ----- Original Message ----- From: Cagann, Alexander <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Monday, February 21, 2000 3:38 PM Subject: RE: [uuc] <M20> Exhaust manifold stud problem > Houston we have a problem. The 525e needed a new downpipe and > my mechanic had a > devil of a job getting the exhaust manifold off, one of the > studs broke leaving > most of itself in the block! I would timecert a new stud, AT THEIR EXPENSE. What are they going to weld??? Seems like a half-assed way to do it. This area has, of course, extreme heat...and with that, extreme temperature changes...and quickly. I would repair this the correct way. Alex Cagann 88///M5 ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 22 Feb 2000 07:31:11 -0600 From: "Brian Collins" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] UUC Shifter/Mountain Dew Referring to John Stoj's comment to Milo about laying off the mountain dew that 16 year olds drink.....You must not be watching enough TV John! Mountain Dew is out and the new kid on the block is "SPLODE" (Dude) "with 10 times the carbonation of regular carbonated drinks" The spot on TV shows kids bungie jumping of a bridge out in a mountainous area and at the bottom of their "trip" they grab a can of SPLODE off a rock and on the return trip up, they pop the can and the drink sprays out of the can into the participants mouth (sort of----) Second jumper gets his can of SPLODE and when he pops it, there is a huge explosion and he is GONE ("sploded" I guess) Brian ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 22 Feb 2000 07:55:43 -0600 (CST) From: Jefrem Iwaniw <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [uuc] <M20> Exhaust manifold stud problem On Mon, 21 Feb 2000, Christian Els wrote: <snip> > Alternately, a TimeSert or even a helicoil is a reasonable quick-fix, > provided you aren't going endurance racing. Actually, a helicoil will provide a *stronger* solution than welding-with-original-material and retapping, in the case of an aluminum head. The helicoil itself will expand as the torque applied to its insertion tang is stopped, and further as the stud is inserted into it, gripping the walls of its container far better than the stud alone would. - -jefrem ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 22 Feb 2000 07:56:59 -0500 From: "John Van Houten" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] In car video web pages My web pages have been taken down due to excess bandwidth (800Mb in 3 days) by netcom. I'll let you know when they're back up. John ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 22 Feb 2000 09:12:50 -0500 (EST) From: "Zachariah George" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] Re: Driving/shifting question A BIG thanks to all who took had the time and patience to elaborate on "heel'n'toe"! Cheers, Zach On Fri, 18 Feb 2000, Scott D Miller wrote: | | |Zach is perplexed: | |>Date: Fri, 18 Feb 2000 13:59:04 -0500 |>From: "George, Zachariah (CICG Development)" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> |>Subject: RE: RE: [uuc] <ot> Driving/shifting question |> |>I don't understand all the fuss. |>Every single time I want to go from |>a higher gear (5) to a lower gear (4), |>I depress the clutch pedal, blip the |>gas a split while the tranny is disengaged, |>proceed to downshift, and release the |>clutch before the rpms can return to |>their previous level. I know I have synchros, |>but the downshift feels positively smoother, |>when I do this. What is all this Heel AND toe business? |> |>perplexed in New York, |>Zach | |Since this has been discussed at various times on this and other digests, I |find it hard to believe that someone who has been around for more than a |couple of months does not understand this issue. So this was either meant |tongue-in-cheek, or you somehow missed all the previous discussions. |Abducted by aliens? Whatever, here's my simple explanation. | |You are speeding towards a tight turn at a fairly high rate of speed, like, |say, on a race track. This could also happen on public roads, but we tend |to drive slightly less aggressively on public roads, right? So let's |pretend we're at the track. Oh, and we must assume you're in a car with a |manual transmission. | |DISCLAIMER: Do not use this heel-and-toe downshift technique in a car with |an automatic transmission, the results will be, um, less than happy. Not |to mention that there is no clutch pedal. | |Sorry, back to my simple explanation. High speed straight approaching a |low-speed turn. Apply the brakes. Slowing down, slowing down, still |slowing down, the turn-in point is approaching. Hey, time to downshift. |One foot on the clutch, other foot still on the brake, and you use your |third foot to blip the throttle. Wait, that's three feet! I've only got |two. OK, who's got 3? No one on this list that I know of. If you keep |your foot all the way over on the brake pedal, you can't blip the throttle. | |OK, let's try that agin. Slowing down, left foot to the clutch, right foot |off the brake and onto the throttle pedal to blip, but wait, WE DIDN'T SLOW |DOWN ENOUGH, I'M GONNA HIT THAT WALL! BANG! Ouch, now does my insurance |cover this? But that's another discussion. | |Now, you could just start slowing down sooner so that you could brake |sufficiently first, then release the brake and downshift while coasting, |and then get back on the gas to turn in. But this takes longer. Part of |high performance driving is learning how to keep the car at its limits at |all times. We don't want to take longer to brake and turn. In fact, the |heel and toe thing leads to trail braking, yet another subject, that will |also help keep the car at its limits. What to do? | |There is, of course, the third scenario: Position your foot kind of |between the brake and throttle pedals. Part of your foot stays on the |brake to complete slowing the car. The other part of your foot slides or |swings over and blips the throttle, smoothing your downshift. Three |pedals, two feet, but no big deal. It works. It is called heel and toe |downshifting, but usually it is actually the side of your foot and the |other side of your foot. It just kind of depends on what works for you, or |the size of your feet. | |Or perhaps you'd prefer to just get a third leg and foot surgically |attached?!!? THAT I'd like to see. | |Now that was simple, right? | |Scott Miller |GGC BMW CCA #44977 | ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 22 Feb 2000 07:13:04 -0800 (PST) From: stu <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] Great road! If you're in the Phoenix area headed east, try AZ 87 to Payson. About 80 miles of nice road. Last 40 is 4 lane through the mts., nice sweeping curves -- your BMW will be passing everything in sight. >From Payson take AZ 87 to Winslow. About 90 mi. of two lane great road through the mts. and then the desert. The last 50 or so mi. is very deserted, great fun. Don't be surprised if you end up doubling the speed limit the last 40 mi. Bonus: you get to see Winslow, AZ up close and personal. Hmmmm! Maybe that's why the last 60 mi. is so deserted -- only goes to Winslow. Winslow flame suit on. Stu Buffalo ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 22 Feb 2000 08:39:37 -0600 From: "Alarcon, Rob" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] <E30> won't go into first gear Well, I bled the clutch and the problem still persists. At times I just can't get the damn thing into first gear unless I go to second and then back to first. Some times I can't even get it into second and have to go to third ! This problem is quite annoying, especially since I live in a very hilly area with impatient unskilled drivers that like to ride up your ... as far as I can tell, and judging from all of the input, I'd have to say the synchros are to blame. Anybody ever have the synchros replaced ? Is it even a worthwhile endeavor ? Should I start shopping for a new gearbox ? Robb Alarcon ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 22 Feb 2000 09:02:28 -0500 From: "Gary Derian" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [uuc] <M20> Exhaust manifold stud problem A Helicoil is a stronger thread than the base aluminum. If you were going endurance racing, I would recommend that ALL the exhaust bolt holes be upgraded to helicoils. Many critical and high stress threaded joints in soft materials like aluminum are helicoiled as an original design. There are other threaded inserts like the TineCert or KeyCert (sp?) that are stronger but they take up more room and may not fit. Gary Derian <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > Actually the _correct_ way to fix this kind of booboo <technical term> is to > weld in new material with similar properties (ideally the same material) and > tap the filled hole to original spec. The precautions here with an aluminum > head are: 1.) Watch proximity to the deck surface that you don't warp it the > sealing face; 2.) Be extremely careful that the new hole gets tapped square > to the surface. > > On an exhaust manifold the latter isn't so critical but on a cam bearing > tower this is absolutely essential to normal cam wear and performance. > > Alternately, a TimeSert or even a helicoil is a reasonable quick-fix, > provided you aren't going endurance racing. > > $0.02 > > tiAn > 94 325i w/stuff > > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: Cagann, Alexander <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > Sent: Monday, February 21, 2000 3:38 PM > Subject: RE: [uuc] <M20> Exhaust manifold stud problem > > > > Houston we have a problem. The 525e needed a new downpipe and > > my mechanic had a > > devil of a job getting the exhaust manifold off, one of the > > studs broke leaving > > most of itself in the block! > > I would timecert a new stud, AT THEIR EXPENSE. What are they going to > weld??? Seems like a half-assed way to do it. This area has, of course, > extreme heat...and with that, extreme temperature changes...and quickly. I > would repair this the correct way. > > Alex Cagann > 88///M5 > ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 22 Feb 2000 10:13:06 -0500 (EST) From: Moe Drippins <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [uuc] My first driver's school Tim Taylor writes: > OK, so everyone sez driver's school is worth it even in my slushbox > equipped E34 540i :) > > Now, then, having never attended a driver's school would I be > advised to attend the Highway Safety School first in order to learn > some basics? Or is that a waste of my time and $$? The wet skidpad > and wet/dry braking excercises sound pretty interesting... IMO, *NO* driver education is a waste of time, but whether or not it will help you on the track is debateable. > whose only previous 'track' event was the one time he took his 1983 > Dodge Shelby Charger to the SCCA autocross. I sucked. But it was > cool to see all the fast Rabbit GTIs get the inside rear wheel off > the ground! Inside rear? At what point in the turn? - -- - -- Just Moe '95 540 6 speed, BL/SS BMWCCA Peachtree Chapter ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 22 Feb 2000 07:23:12 -0800 (PST) From: Matthew Yip <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [uuc] My first driver's school - --- Moe Drippins <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > Inside rear? At what point in the turn? If done right, any FWD car will tricycle completely thru a turn. It's b/c such a large percentage of a FWD's weight is over the front wheels. I like this "feature" because it saves on tire wear <g> ===== Matthew Yip [EMAIL PROTECTED] http://www.geocities.com/mgyip/ '87 GTi 16v - x2 '88 M5 '99 F350 __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Talk to your friends online with Yahoo! Messenger. http://im.yahoo.com ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 22 Feb 2000 10:16:33 -0500 From: "Gary Derian" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [uuc] <E30> won't go into first gear Before you rebuild the gearbox, make absolutely sure the clutch is not dragging. With the engine running in neutral can you hear the gears turning in the trans? If so, does the noise stop a few seconds after pushing in the clutch pedal? Or you can jack up the rear wheels, run the engine in gear and watch that the tires stop when the pedal is pushed. Block the front wheels and make sure there is a clear path in front of the car. Gary Derian <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > Well, I bled the clutch and the problem still persists. At times I just can't > get the damn thing into first gear unless I go to second and then back to > first. Some times I can't even get it into second and have to go to third ! > This problem is quite annoying, especially since I live in a very hilly area > with impatient unskilled drivers that like to ride up your ... as far as I can tell, > and judging from all of the input, I'd have to say the synchros are to blame. > > Anybody ever have the synchros replaced ? Is it even a worthwhile > endeavor ? Should I start shopping for a new gearbox ? > > Robb Alarcon ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 22 Feb 2000 10:35:58 -0500 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: [uuc] My first driver's school Moe asked: > whose only previous 'track' event was the one time he took his 1983 > Dodge Shelby Charger to the SCCA autocross. I sucked. But it was > cool to see all the fast Rabbit GTIs get the inside rear wheel off > the ground! Inside rear? At what point in the turn? - -------------------------------------------------------- At turn in and if they're going fast enough they keep it up throughout the turn. Not unusual with a VW/Neon/Sentra/take your pick FWD econobox with large sway bars. I like to call it the "doggie leg" because they look like they're pee-ing. heh...heh... On the other hand a RWD car with large bars will lift the inside front, now THAT looks cool to me. Moe you must attend autocrosses more often. :-) Carlos 91 M3 ------------------------------ End of [uucdigest] V3 #308 ************************** _________________________________________ | Please visit these UUC-approved BMW parts vendors/service providers: | (listed alphabetically) | Bonneville Motorwerks . http://www.bonnevillemotorwerks.com | Circle Tire Co. 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