[uucdigest]           Sunday, March 5 2000           Volume 03 : Number 389



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In this BMW UUC Digest:

       [uuc] Late night net jobs?
       [uuc] e30 M3 upgrades for Solo2
       [uuc] new inline 6s
       Re: [uuc] <All> Aftermarket horns
       Re: [uuc] new inline 6s
       [uuc] Re: Silver wheel paint procedure
       [uuc] <2002> Ripley's Believe It Or Not
       [uuc] <all> re: silver wheel paint
       Re: [uuc] <E30> Fuel Injector Removal
       [uuc] Jeff's M5 for Sale
       [uuc] E30 Tourings
       [uuc] CD Changers
       [uuc] E46 Wheels
       Re: [uuc] E46 - Advice on Tires & Sizes 

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Sun, 05 Mar 2000 04:00:41 -0500
From: tim robinson <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [uuc] Late night net jobs?

I'm in need of a late night job if for nothing else, just for my sanity.
I've been taking care of my mom and dad at home for the last few years.
My shift is 8:00pm till 8:00am or so, with a whole lot of waiting and
listening and just being there.

Being new to the net I was wondering if there are companies out there
that will pay for at home net workers; filing ,sorting,inputing and this
sort of thing. Any information would be appreciated.

As for my bmw content, I really love my 325is.:) The rest of my family
are coming to their senses also, two of my sisters just purchased bmw's
(1993 325is and a 1996 328is)

Thanks all
Tim

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 5 Mar 2000 05:17:05 EST
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: [uuc] e30 M3 upgrades for Solo2

I am having a major amount of work done on my M3 in the next few weeks and 
need a little help with what is and is not allowable modifications for Solo2 
AutoX.  

If someone can, could they please tell me what I can and cannot upgrade as 
far as suspension, intake, exhaust, brakes etc. and still stay in the AS 
class.   As of right now the car is set up as stock.

Also, if I do make modifications that bump me up to another class... I've 
heard that the next class up is a much more competative class for the E30 
M3.. i.e. the car is a closer match with the competion after the 
modifications.  If this is true, then what modifications should I make to 
boost up to the next class level. 

I'd also like some suggestions/recommendations on brands for strut braces, 
brake pads and exhaust.  

I'm not a member of the M3 sig yet but plan on joining soon... until then any 
and all help from this uuc is very much appreciated.  

Thank you.
- - Ezra 
1988 E30 M3

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 05 Mar 2000 18:38:32 +0800
From: Jay Sala <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [uuc] new inline 6s

Several months ago JimC mentioned that a new 2.5L inline-6 will be 
introduced in 2000, perhaps to coincide with the launch of the 3.0L I-6 
(replacing the 2.8L).  Does anyone have any new information on the new 
2.5L  -- horsepower/torque specs, shape of power curve, smoothness, weight, 
etc.  A friend plans to buy a Z3 2.3 this month, but may postpone if the 
2.5L will be replaced with a noticeably improved version.  A 2.8/3.0L is 
not being considered for cost reasons.

Thanks in advance.

Jay Sala
BMW CCA, Golden Gate Chapter
E36 328i

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 05 Mar 2000 06:01:46 -0800
From: richard <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [uuc] <All> Aftermarket horns

autozone...

fiamms hi/low tones...loud , made in italy...

$19.95...will scare the urine outa a blue hair, bob tail truck, etc...

same as oem on my moto-guzzi le mans


richard

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 5 Mar 2000 04:47:19 -0800
From: "Jonathan Reiser" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [uuc] new inline 6s

From: "Jay Sala" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Sunday, March 05, 2000 2:38 AM
Subject: [uuc] new inline 6s


> Several months ago JimC mentioned that a new 2.5L inline-6 will be
> introduced in 2000, perhaps to coincide with the launch of the 3.0L I-6
> (replacing the 2.8L).  Does anyone have any new information on the new
> 2.5L  -- horsepower/torque specs, shape of power curve, smoothness,
weight,
> etc.  A friend plans to buy a Z3 2.3 this month, but may postpone if the
> 2.5L will be replaced with a noticeably improved version.  A 2.8/3.0L is
> not being considered for cost reasons.

The Z3 Roadster 2.3 *is* a 2.5litre 170hp, 24 valave inline 6.  They just
don't call it a Z3 Roadster 2.5 because then no one would buy the Z3
Roadster 2.8.  The Z3s have the same motor configurations as a normal 3
series (a 323 is really a 325 etc.). For the 2001 model year the 2.8 litre
motor is being replaced on the Z3 2.8, 328 and 528 with a 3.0 litre motor
which is essentially a detuned version of the 3.0L US Spec M3 motor.  I've
seen numbers from 200-220hp for the new motor.  I haven't heard/read/seen
anything about a new version of the 2.5L motor.  Essentially the entire idea
of the introduction of the 3.0L is to put a larger gap between the lower end
and higher end models.  As it stands now, if I were to purchase a new 3
series tomorrow I would save the 5,000 bucks and buy a 323Ci instead of the
328.  Also, the new convertible 323 was *just* released and has the old
engine.  I think this further points to the fact that it will not be
replaced with a newer version.


Here is all technical info on the 2000 Z3 Roadter 2.3 from bmwusa.com:

BMW Z3 Roadster 2.3
Technical Data

Weight Unladen      lbs.            2899 (2987)

Weight distribution,
front/rear
    Manual transmission     %    51.0/49.0
    Automatic Transmission%    51.7/48.3

Engine
Litre/type                                2.5/in-line 6

Bore/stroke                inch      3.31/2.95

Nominal output/rpm    hp        170/5500

Max. torque/rpm        lb-ft      181/3500

Compression ratio/fuel
grade                         :1          10.5/unleaded prem.

Transmission
Standard gear ratios (:1)    I/II/III        4.23/2.52/1.66
                                         IV/V/R      1.22/1.00/4.04

Final drive ratio           :1                     3.15

Automatic gear ratios  (:1)  I/II/III        2.86/1.62/1.00
                                          IV/R          0.72/2.00

Final drive ratio             :1                    4.27


Performance
Top Speed (limited)        mph                128

Acceleration 0-60 mph    sec                 6.8 (7.5)


All first numbers are manual transmission cars number in () are auto.....

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 5 Mar 2000 07:04:16 -0600
From: "Rick" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [uuc] Re: Silver wheel paint procedure

This post is to try to get a "right way" to paint wheels from all the list
knowledge.

I've painted a few wheels with Wurth and seem to have learned that:
*a thorough cleaning of wheel and tire (so the tape will stick to it) can
  use hot water and laundry detergent.  Let wheels dry standing up so
  all water can get out of  the groove at the wheel/tire junction.  AMHIK.

*if taping the wheel off is a bother then tape onto the tire itself and
cover
  the tire from the wheel to the tape with Vaseline.  Paint won't stick.

*two light coats (one clockwise and the next counter) sprayed at an
  angle are going to cover better than a coating from straight up above.

*don't wait for coats to dry.  Let paint sit up a bit (a few minutes) to
  avoid runs and then hit the wheel again.

*the third or the final spray of Wurth is from a few feet above, letting
  the silver particles fall evenly onto the surface.  This lets me look
  at the paint surface as a whole rather than at the spot being painted.

* the best way for the Clear to apply smoothly over the rough Wurth
  finish is to apply it when the silver is still moist.

We would appreciate others' opinions on what worked best for
them and how to avoid the pitfalls.

Thanks,
Rick Pickering
'88 M6

P.S.  John, how did the Griot's paint work?

>
>I've used Wurth many times, and it's as close as you are gonna get IMHO.
>Right at this moment I am repainting some BBS wheels using the Griot's
Garage
>Silver...so far it's great...the big test will be the clearcoat...
>
>Good luck,
>
>John Weese
>BMW CCA #76646

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 5 Mar 2000 08:58:34 EST
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: [uuc] <2002> Ripley's Believe It Or Not

I was clicking thru the channels on the tube yesterday and to my "HORROR" I 
see this idiot in a kevlar space suit of sorts standing in front of a brick 
wall....attached to a crane and hanging by cables is this Verona Red 2002 
(looked to be in original or restored "very drivable" condition).

The car is released and swings into the guy in the suit....well, the guy is 
pushed thru the wall of bricks and lives thru the impact...BIG DEAL...."WHAT 
ABOUT THE CAR?".....Damn I hate seeing a classic car like an '02 purposely 
damaged in that way?

Anybody see that horrible exhibition? I'm trying to put it out of my mind<g>

Thanks for the bandwith...I really needed to vent!

John Weese
Nittany Bimmers Chapter
'73 2002tii
'76 2002
'74 2002 (in worse shape than the one creamed on the show)  

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 05 Mar 2000 09:01:23 -0500
From: Chris Pawlowicz <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [uuc] <all> re: silver wheel paint

Don Eilenberger <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> replied to 
> >From: tabe johnson <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> >Anyone know if silver paint exists which is
> >the same colour as the OEM paint?  Where?
> >- --tabe johnson
> 
> owner yet has avoided curb rash.. :-( ) - the 'standard' BMW
> wheels are matched perfectly by Wurth Silver covered with
> Wurth Clear.
> 
> There are distributors for Wurth around the US - dunno about
> Canada.. but it's fairly easy to get. Eurasian used to carry
> it - but I don't see it in their current ad (909-308-1744). Actually
> didn't see it in ANY ad in the current Roundel.. so you might
> ask a friendly mechanic if Wurth comes around in Canada (they
> make lots more stuff mechanics use besides paint). At least
> you know now what'cher looking for.
>

just a note for Canadians:

shipping paint across the product *may* be a huge hassle.. it is
classified as dangerous goods or something and Canada Post my deem it
'illegal' as far as shipping.

I ordered some Wurth Rost Off or some such stuff and it was held up at
Canada Post for a few weeks.. first they said they threw it away.. then
I talked to a guy at a warehouse who said he was *going* to throw it
away.. then it was going to cost an extra $50 to ship.. (for a $20 can
of paint).. then they ended up shipping it to me 'just this once' (no
extra charge)

YMMV

chris pawlowicz
'89 325i
'74 2002

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 5 Mar 2000 09:44:09 -0500
From: "Pat Donahue" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [uuc] <E30> Fuel Injector Removal

Ah, such fond recollections.  You'll need to pull pretty hard but they do
pull out after that clip is removed.  Try putting some penetrating oil on
them for a while.  I ended up putting the rail down onto some bricks and
putting my foot on it to pull.  They'll go back together quite nicely if you
dip the O-rings into regular motor oil on assembly.

Geeeze
'95 Honda ST1100A for sale - $8000
'84 Chevy K10 Suburban turbo diesel for sale - $5000

- ----- Original Message -----
From: "The Hall Family" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>


> In an effort to eliminate a rough idle, I'm replacing the o-ring seals on
> the fuel injectors.  I've gotten the electrical connection off and the
> injectors out of the cylinder head.  I removed the metal retaining clip
> securing the injector to the fuel rail, but I cannot get the injector of
the
> "boot" on the rail.  I can even twist it 360 degrees, but it won't come
off
> the rail.  Any suggestions?  How hard should I have to tug?  The car is an
> 89 325is.

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 5 Mar 2000 10:03:49 -0500
From: "Duane Collie" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [uuc] Jeff's M5 for Sale

>From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>Subject: [uuc] Avus Blue M5 <FS>
>
>All right troops, here's you chance.  Y'all been drooling onto the keyboard
>about Rob's new car.  I can quite match it, but it's close.
>
>93 M5 Individual
>Avus/silver leather with ///M sport cloth inserts in seats
>Dark gray wood trim
>One of last four US cars built 3/93
>Concours condition, near flawless inside and out
>Former Roundel cover car, will be featured in Bimmer and a book about the
E34
>///M cars D***N chip, factory CD changer
>20,000 miles

I saw Jeff's car at O'Fest and drooled all over it.  Any of you guy/gals
want a supremely cherry M5 and missed out on buying a new E34 in '93, then
BUY THIS CAR.  No dissapointments, Jeff's M5 is probably the nicest one I've
ever seen.....bar none.  So don't diss the price until you've seen the
car.....its worth it.

- - Duane Collie
The Seven Sled

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 5 Mar 2000 10:11:07 -0600
From: "Jeff Krause" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [uuc] E30 Tourings

Dear Digesters,

There are only 3 known E30 Tourings in the US. I have a 1991
320iT, which is pretty stripped.
Cloth seats, (though they are heated) no roof or ABS, crank
windows.
It does have the self-leveling suspension, and I've added
cruise, OBC, full E30 M3 suspension with hubs, brakes,
tires, wheels. 90k miles. Slow as molasses. But it is just
neat as hell, and I love it in spite of fearing chipped
Yugos at stop lights. (An M50 swap will fix this, though.)

Chris Brooks in Florida has the 1992 325iT, which is an iS
level car. Diamond black/black. 125k miles. REALLY nice car,
and it FLIES compared to my 2.0 six.

Terry Sayther in Texas (one of the 2000 M5 winners from
Ofest 99!) has a red 318iT that was converted to a 325iT
after an unfortunate incident, though I don't know all the
details.

That is it as far as I know. I have a pic of mine on my web
site at http://driversedge.com/320it.jpg.


Jeff Krause
317-535-0250
Whiteland IN
The Driver's Edge
http://driversedge.com

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 5 Mar 2000 09:18:05 -0600
From: "Celisa" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [uuc] CD Changers

I'm curious about CD changers. Is there anywhere I can purchase one without
paying dealer price. I found a site, but I'm uncertain as to which one to
purchase. I have a 99 328is. Do I get Alpine or Pioneer? Thanks for any
advice given.




Best Regards,
    Celisa

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 05 Mar 2000 07:32:12 -0800
From: "Brian Foster" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [uuc] E46 Wheels

I just mounted a set of 18x8 TSW Imola's that were used on an E36 325i.
They have Toyo T1 225/40-18's mounted and I have tested the ABS and the
traction control with no ill effects. I suspect the computer/speedometer
reads a little high but keeping my speed down is a good thing! :-)

They fit fine with no rubbing or intereference problems.


Brian Foster
Irvine CA

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------------------------------

Date: Sun, 5 Mar 2000 10:49:29 -0500
From: "Gary Derian" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [uuc] E46 - Advice on Tires & Sizes 

I agree, same diameter all around, no matter what it is, is OK for ABS.  I
figured Ted wanted 235/40 front and 245/40 rear.  I didn't notice that he
had the same rims all around.  I don't know the limit in diameter difference
that the ABS can handle.  It can surely handle some difference but how much?

A 235/40 will just squeeze onto a 7.5 inch rim.  A 245/40 is not
recommended.  45 and lower tires are designed for wider rims than 50 and
higher.  The 235/40 will look a little short on a standard ride height 323i
and throw your speedo off 2 mph at 70 mph.

Gary Derian <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>


> Ted,
> My understanding is that as long as both front and rear diameters change
the
> same you won't ABS problems.
>
> As far as tires, I have 235/40-17 Yoko AVS Intermediates on my E36 328i w/
> sport package.  The wheels I put on are 17x8 w/ 40mm offset and I've had
no
> rubbing.  I love the AVS Intermediates, they are priced similarly to the
> A520 I believe.  And, as far as the "overlap" look, it wouldn't be any
> different than than the 225/50-16's on 16x7 that came on the car
originally,
> and that was OK I thought - nothing like  225's on 6 inch wheels or 245s
on
> 7's-thats bad, and probably exceeds the tire specs.
>
> Mark
> '96 328i Sport (Hakka's coming off soon, Yoko's on-yea!)
>
>
> >A 235/40 is 0.6 inches (2.5%) shorter than a 225/45.  That may cause a
> >problem with the ABS.
> >
> >Gary Derian <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> >
> >> I'm looking to purchase a set of tires for my '99 E46 323i/4.  I really
> >had
> >> my mind set on the Yokohama A520's, but the problem is they don't make
> >them
> >> in 225/45/17, only 235/40/17.  I also liked the Dunlop W10's I had on
my
> >'98
> >> GTI VR6, but same problem - they don't produce them in the 225/45/17.
> >>
> >> Now, my question is if I went w/a 235/40/17, would I have any problems
> >> (rubbing, etc?) - the car is stock 323i/4 w/Sport pkg, so it's a little
> >lower
> >> than a stock 323.  The wheels are 17x7.5, so I'm also wondering if the
> >> 235/40's will look a little funny (i.e. that "overlap" look).
> >>
> >> I'm really looking for a reasonably inexpensive tire (I don't wanna
spend
> >> more than $140 each) - If anyone on the list has experience with those
> >Yok's,
> >> or if they can give some advice as to what tire and what size I should
> >look
> >> into, I'd greatly appreciate it..
> >>
> >> TIA
> >>
> >> -Ted
> >> '99 323i/4
>
>

------------------------------

End of [uucdigest] V3 #389
**************************

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