[uucdigest] Sunday, March 5 2000 Volume 03 : Number 390 ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ | For all available Digest commands including unsubscribe/subscribe, | visit the BMW UUC Digest page: http://www.uucdigest.com | Send SUBMISSIONS to [EMAIL PROTECTED] | Complaints? Send 'em to [EMAIL PROTECTED] if you must. | Visit http://www.bubbaclub.com | www.bimmers.com - "serving enthusiasts on the 'net" | Visit http://www.bimmer.org - ultimate BMW bulletin boards! | Subscribe to the Zionsville Autosport Parts Digest: | http://www.zionsvilleautosport.com/majordomo.htm ����������������������������������������� In this BMW UUC Digest: [uuc] Re: Silver Wheel Paint Re: [uuc] CD Changers Re: [uuc] <2002> Ripley's Believe It Or Not [uuc] 1900 750il rear height [uuc] Re: <E30> subframe q's [uuc] Hella Horns [uuc] 524td FS [uuc] Re: E30 M3 upgrades for Solo2 (Long) [uuc] DentFest2000 - Thanks for coming! [uuc] Warranty Fair Deal?? [uuc] Need a traffic lawyer in Cleveland [none] [uuc] Re: <All> Aftermarket horns - done [uuc] Re: Aftermarket horns [uuc] Re: First dent and I'm taking it hard... ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Sun, 05 Mar 2000 11:34:17 -0500 From: Mark Borchik <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] Re: Silver Wheel Paint >From: tabe johnson <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> >Subject: [uuc] <all> Silver wheel paint > >Anyone know if silver paint exists which is >the same colour as the OEM paint? Where? A little excursion out to the garage located the one unused 400 ml. spray can of BMW "Silver Wheel Paint" that I knew was out there, and has the "BMW" part # sticker still intact on the cap: 82-14-9-400-747. It also has a second "HWB" part # incorporated in the label text: 81-22-9-407-538. The BMW part # sticker is probably more accurate, as it was attached during the US distribution process. The can is labelled "Made in West Germany", and "HWB - A Division of BMW AG, Munich". This particular can is at least 12 years old, but the part #(s) may still be good, or someone might have some old stock, if it isn't. I remember also having similarly-packaged BMW "Clearcoat" as well, but it was used-up long ago. Mark B. http://www.gruppeb.com/635 <--- "Shark-Infested Driveway" page ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 5 Mar 2000 11:55:06 -0500 (EST) From: "Barry J. Bocaner" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [uuc] CD Changers On Sun, 5 Mar 2000, Celisa wrote: > I'm curious about CD changers. Is there anywhere I can purchase one without > paying dealer price. I found a site, but I'm uncertain as to which one to > purchase. I have a 99 328is. Do I get Alpine or Pioneer? Thanks for any > advice given. Celisa: I believe you want the alpine-manufactured unit, but check with the parts guy when you order it. IMO the best price on the CD changers is with the dealership parts dept, mail order. when you mail order they will give you much better prices then if you were to walk in. Do you get the roundel? If so, there are lots of dealerships that advertise things like cd changers and alarms at good prices. Give a few of them a call! - --=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-= Barry J. Bocaner <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> http://web.bocaner.net - -=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=- ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 05 Mar 2000 12:24:08 -0500 From: Mark Borchik <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [uuc] <2002> Ripley's Believe It Or Not John Weese wrote: > damaged in that way? > > Anybody see that horrible exhibition? I'm trying to put it out of my mind <g> > John, I missed that one, but was equally horrified 2 weeks back, while watching a SciFi Channel produced "alien" movie that aired late (yawn) on Saturday night... In the movie, as the "good guys" try to trash the alien creature, a perfectly-usable 6-series coupe gets torched! The camera shot showed the car from the rear 3/4 view, and I cringed as "my" sought-after tail lights melted into little red puddles of unobtanium Bavarian plastique. <sob> I hate brazen Hollywood disrespect for classic automobiles, especially when a POS Ford Tempo could have easily captured the same desired effect, especially in such a low-budget POS movie... They coulda had an even lower budget had they used a Tempo, and sold the 635 to me!. BASTURDS! (sic) Mark B. http://www.gruppeb.com/635 ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 05 Mar 2000 11:35:14 -0600 From: Morty Kessler <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] 1900 750il rear height I recently installed a level sensor for the rear shocks. What are the specs for the height of the rear end and how should it be measured? Thanks, Mo ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 5 Mar 2000 09:38:40 -0800 (PST) From: Carlos Lopez <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] Re: <E30> subframe q's Randy Walters teases with: >I have a trick for breaking the subframe's knurled press-pins out >without banging, beating, or swearing . . . Well geez Randy, don't just leave us hanging like that!!! What's the latest trick? I read Pat D's to strike the pin from the top before anything else is apart. Carlos 91 M3 __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Talk to your friends online with Yahoo! Messenger. http://im.yahoo.com ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 5 Mar 2000 12:01:00 -0600 From: "Brian Collins" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] Hella Horns I found some Italian Fiamm "Highway Blasters" at Pep Boys and run them on both of my BMW motorcycles. They have a nice European/Alpine tone and are very loud. They cost about $20 Brian Collins ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 5 Mar 2000 09:48:06 -0000 From: "BMW Bits" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] 524td FS There's a mid 80s 524 td for sale in the Boeing classifieds here in Pu Sound lately . Priced around $2500 if memory serves me . Know nuthin other than above ...just FYI . Contact me if int and I'll dig out phone number. Good tow-car ?? Diesel-grunt plus MPG and still a Beemer.... Bill Proud , 29yrs messing with BMWs in Seattle area ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 05 Mar 2000 10:25:58 -0800 From: Randy Walters <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] Re: E30 M3 upgrades for Solo2 (Long) [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: >I am having a major amount of work done on my M3 in the next few weeks and >need a little help with what is and is not allowable modifications for Solo2 >AutoX. > >If someone can, could they please tell me what I can and cannot upgrade as >far as suspension, intake, exhaust, brakes etc. and still stay in the AS >class. As of right now the car is set up as stock. > >Also, if I do make modifications that bump me up to another class... I've >heard that the next class up is a much more competative class for the E30 >M3.. i.e. the car is a closer match with the competion after the >modifications. If this is true, then what modifications should I make to >boost up to the next class level. >I'd also like some suggestions/recommendations on brands for strut braces, >brake pads and exhaust. > >I'm not a member of the M3 sig yet but plan on joining soon... until then any >and all help from this uuc is very much appreciated. > >Thank you. >- - Ezra >1988 E30 M3 I use Ferodo brakepads on both my autocross cars, but Pagids would be a good choice too (they're better than stockers). EBC is making automotive pads now and i've heard they're good, but i haven't tried them yet. Ireland Enginnering can supply these. Velocity has the Ferodos and probably the Pagids. Performance Friction pads do well also, but i've found the Ferodos to be the grippiest on both my cars and perfectly suited to autocross and fast canyon/mountain driving :-) Work great when cold too. I'm very interested in the EBCs and may try em on the front later when my Ferodos wear out. As for the exhaust, i don't think you can beat the factory setup other than to make more noise. You're allowed to replace it from the cat back, but the cat and anything forward must be OEM or a direct replacement part. On the intake, you can use any air filter as long as it fits the stock unmodified U.S. Spec airbox. Or you can remove the filter element completely but i wouldn't recommend that with your expensive engine.... it would suck to ingest a cone :-) Sparco makes a nice upper strut brace, and i'm sure there's others, but it's not allowed in Stock class. Good question for the SIG List..... I can't believe you're not on the M3 SIG List, that would be the *first* thing i'd do if i ever aquired an M3. I'm on it and i don't even have one :-) I think it's the best automotive mailing list i've ever seen, ever. Here's an URL with SCCA Solo II Rules, taken directly from the SCCA Solo II rulebook. Basically, if the rules don't specifically state that you can do something, you must assume that you *cannot*. They only list the allowable modifications because there's a million other things that you cannot change, and that would make the rulebook a few feet thick :-) http://www.best.com/~mouton/sccasolo/car_class_stock_rules.html#s13 In A-Stock, you can install a cat-back exhaust system, synthetic oils, a racing harness, different/aftermarket front swaybar, stiffer shocks such as Koni adjustables, better brake pads (i use Ferodo), and any DOT R-compound race tire that you can squeeze onto the stock wheel (or stock-sized aftermarket wheel - 15x7 in your case). You're allowed to deviate from the stock wheel offset by 1/4" per corner from stock offsets, but widening your track softens your spring rates a bit. Your best tire choice would be a 225/50-15 Kumho as they're quite fast and are very robust. Get em shaved for sure :-) The car is not competitive in AS though. An A-Stock MR2 Turbo would beat even a CSP E30 M3. - -------------- Street Prepared: If you modify the car beyond Stock class rules, you'll be in CSP with the killer Honda CRX-Si, Miata, Mazda RX3, and the earlier normally aspirated RX7s. So in the L.A. region you'd be up against Bob Endicott, Dave Palmquist, and Tom Berry. Stiff competition !! If you want the __Street Prepared__ rules, use this URL: http://www.best.com/~mouton/sccasolo/car_class_sp_rules.html#s14 In this case you'll need *much much stiffer* springs and shocks, maybe slightly larger swaybars, wider wheels (maybe 15x8), and an upper front strut brace. You can use better brakepads but your rotors and calipers must still be stock. You can also install any exhaust system and any intake system as long as it bolts to the stock head. You can install a chip, and change the front seats to racing seats. Any steering wheel too. No lightening allowed. Your engine must be stock, but you're allowed a few things like balancing and a small cylinder over-bore (+ .040?) and a little port matching. The cam(s) and head must be stock. All non-modifiable parts and components must be U.S. Spec as it came on the car as new. Anything not specifically allowed in Street Prepared must be as it is in the car's Stock class. The Street Prepared groupings have changed for 2000, but the preparation rules are still the same as before. The M3 stayed in CSP, but they moved my 325is down a notch to DSP which is a good class for the car, unless someone shows up with a 16v Golf GTi set up like my FSP 8-valve GTi :-( The new SP groupings (again compliments of Mr. Jerry Mouton) are at: http://www.moutons.org/sccasolo/sp_carsc.txt Randy Walters 89 BMW 325is DSP 85 Golf 8v GTi FSP Rainy So Calif (been pouring hard for 5 straight hours already. Damn.) http://albums.photopoint.com/j/AlbumList?u=153582 - - ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 5 Mar 2000 14:15:40 -0500 From: "Rob Levinson - UUC Motorwerks" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] DentFest2000 - Thanks for coming! DentFest2000 went great. Thanks to everybody for showing up, there were lots of interesting BMWs there (and a preponderance of E36 M3s as usual). Brian Roemer did an awesome job on all the cars, making most of the dings disappear like magic. Truly incredible to watch a skilled professional in action. I had a nasty ding on each of my M5s, both on a crease (just my luck). I know creases are really difficult to fix, but one was perfect and the only evidence was the chp in the paint. The other was much worse to start with but a very slight notch in the line and a slight crack in the paint are the only evidence, much better than how it started. The most entertaining part of the process on some cars involves a vanadium HAMMER. Looking like a small amateur geologist's hammer, Brian would tap-tap-tap at certain spots to even out the metal... We joked "how many people would have come if we called it 'Bang On Your Car With a HammerFest'"? - - Rob ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 5 Mar 2000 14:23:02 -0500 From: "Chris E. Geiselman" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] Warranty Fair Deal?? The transmission in my 325i needs to be replaced for the second time in 68,000 miles. I am the second owner and the transmission was first replaced for the original owner at 25,000 miles when it began popping out of 1st gear. It has starting the same thing now with only 43,000 miles on the remanufactured box. BMWNA has agreed to ante up 75% of the WHOLESALE cost of the transmission and I am to pay for all labor costs as well. BMWNA also says the clutch mustbe replaced at my expense in case it is the cause of the multiple failures.(I would replace it anyway.) I feel their offer is fair. The dealer, on the other hand will not accept my paying the other 25% of the wholesale price of the transmission. He insists I pay the difference between what BMWNA will pay and the full RETAIL price of the transmission. As a result I will actually end up paying about 34% of the retail cost of the tranny. Is this normal procedure on a warranty issue? After complaining the dealer offered 15% off labor but no more. Also, the dealer offers BMW Club members 15% off parts...does that normally apply to over the counter cash and carry sales only or also on parts installed by the service department. I've never had to deal with an issue like this before and am not sure how such issues are normally handled. Thanks for any advice! Chris Geiselman [EMAIL PROTECTED] ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 05 Mar 2000 14:38:38 -0500 From: Jean Welter <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] Need a traffic lawyer in Cleveland Hey guys, well, the subject line says it all. Anyone here in the business or have a recommendation? Thanks. No lectures, please.... Jean '95 M3 - got nabbed in the Golf. Go figure. ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 05 Mar 2000 11:59:40 PST From: "Jimmy Claypool" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [none] Hi everybody I am new to this list but i need some help. I ma in the Sacramento area and have a 71 2002 that i would like to sell. The body is decent, with on;y a few dents but it comes with a parts car with good body pieces. It is all stock under the hood (1 Barrel carb) but i will include a 2 barrel manifold. The following happened before i bought it Someone tried unsuccessfully to steal it and in the process jammed a screwdriver in every lock, broke the drivers window, and broke the wiondshield. ThePO let it sit for a year in the rain and wasted the interior This he stripped out and alll thats left is the passenger seat. The PO also told me that he just had the engine and trans rebuilt around 30k ago so i bought it just for that. I think the asking price of $800 is worth the engine and trans alone. Now my project list is too big (Datsun 2000 roadster and daily driver 2002) and something must go . So i am selling this car along with a 75 or 76 shell that my neighbor has. And if anyone is interested i also have another datsun roadster for sale. Email me privately if interested Thanks Jimmy and Sara Claypool 2-1971 2002's 2 Datsun roadsters (1ea. 1600 and 2000) 82 Volvo Turbo ______________________________________________________ Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 5 Mar 2000 13:21:31 -0800 (PST) From: Carlos Lopez <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] Re: <All> Aftermarket horns - done Thanks to everyone who replied. Found the Fiamm brand at Pep Boys, bought one high tone, one low tone, and pried the connector off the old horns. They clipped in same as the stock using the old connector. The old ones had about a glass full of water with crud and even R compound tire pieces in them. Sheesh. Carlos 91 M3 with a nice two tone European "brap" sound. Perfect. __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Talk to your friends online with Yahoo! Messenger. http://im.yahoo.com ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 05 Mar 2000 17:33:45 -0500 From: Dave Meyer <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] Re: Aftermarket horns Brian Collins wrote: >I found some Italian Fiamm "Highway Blasters" at Pep Boys and >run them on both of my BMW motorcycles. They have a nice >European/Alpine tone and are very loud. They cost about $20. Then Carlos Lopez wrote: >Found the Fiamm brand at Pep Boys, bought one high tone, one >low tone, and pried the connector off the old horns. They >clipped in same as the stock using the old connector... Almost had my nice new 328is taken out by a full-size Bronco today. Guy came over into my lane to make a left hand turn, fool had no idea I was even there. I laid on the horn, squashed the brakes into ABS, and pulled hard left to get out of his way. Had a half-windshield full of full-size Bronco, still can't believe he didn't drive right over top of me. Don't think he even heard my horn - no evidence of it from the way he drove, anyway. Don't need loud horns often, but once is enough. Asshole scared the livin' shit out of me. He was completely oblivious. Be careful out there. Dave Meyer 99 328is 94 K75RT Lorton VA ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 5 Mar 2000 17:51:24 EST From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [uuc] Re: First dent and I'm taking it hard... If it was this weekend for dentfest...how did everything turn out? I'm particularly interested since my M3 took a hit from a baseball today : ( I still can't believe it...all those track sessions and no damage. But take a little batting practice with my son and his friend and they managed to foul one right into the crease on the passenger side rear quarter panel. The dent is about 2 inches below the rear window and mostly below the crease but there is a small amount of dent just above the crease. When the interior panels are taken off in the back seat, is there open area to work the dent out? Can anyone tell me the proper way to take the interior panels out of the rear? Are they just fastened with those plastic pieces where you simply pop them out or are they tricky to remove? I'd like to get the panels off so when I take it to a body shop, they'll be able to see what they have to work with...if that's a good idea. Thanks for any help. Ken '95 M3 and it's very first dent ------------------------------ End of [uucdigest] V3 #390 ************************** _________________________________________ | Please visit these UUC-approved BMW parts vendors/service providers: | (listed alphabetically) | Bonneville Motorwerks . http://www.bonnevillemotorwerks.com | Circle Tire Co. (used & classic BMW parts) e-mail [EMAIL PROTECTED] | Curry's Auto Service . http://www.currysauto.com | Eurosport . http://www.eurosport-hp.com | Koala MotorSport . http://www.koalamotorsport.com | Taylor BMW - http://www.taylorbmw.com - Doc Bimmer! | The Ultimate Garage . http://www.ultimategarage.com | UUC Motorwerks . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com | Zionsville Autosport . http://www.zionsvilleautosport.com ����������������������������������������
