[uucdigest] Wednesday, March 15 2000 Volume 03 : Number 445 ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ | For all available Digest commands including unsubscribe/subscribe, | visit the BMW UUC Digest page: http://www.uucdigest.com | Send SUBMISSIONS to [EMAIL PROTECTED] | Complaints? Send 'em to [EMAIL PROTECTED] if you must. | Visit http://www.bubbaclub.com | www.bimmers.com - "serving enthusiasts on the 'net" | Visit http://www.bimmer.org - ultimate BMW bulletin boards! | Subscribe to the Zionsville Autosport Parts Digest: | http://www.zionsvilleautosport.com/majordomo.htm ����������������������������������������� In this BMW UUC Digest: [uuc] <E36> Possible radio reception fix [uuc] <ADMIN> cross-posting to the E30 M3 SIG [uuc] RE:BMW [uuc] gearing suitable for US RE: [uuc] E36 vs. E46 gizmonics RE: [uuc] Uhhhhgly! [uuc] <E30> Idle problems **PLEASE ADVISE** [uuc] 16x8 wheels for E36 [uuc] Sway bars for E36 Re: [uuc] 16x8 wheels for E36 Re: [uuc] <E30> Idle problems **PLEASE ADVISE** Re: [uuc] RE: First Radar Detector Re: [uuc] <E30> Tie Rod Questions ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Wed, 15 Mar 2000 10:16:30 -0500 From: "Bill Bauman" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] <E36> Possible radio reception fix Perhaps some of you remember my plea for help on this topic. I had very weak FM reception and almost no AM reception. It turns out there was a short in the ground of the antenna coax near the connector where the coax plugs into the head unit. Cutting off about one inch of the coax and replacing the connector solved the problem. Hope this helps someone else.... Bill Bauman Genesee Valley Chapter ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 15 Mar 2000 10:45:18 -0500 From: "Rob Levinson - UUC Motorwerks" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] <ADMIN> cross-posting to the E30 M3 SIG Hi folks, It has come to my attention that some people who are subscribed to both the UUC Digest and the E30 M3 SIG list may be accidentally (or deliberately) sending "general interest" UUC Digest messages to the E30 M3 list as well. Please be careful about cross-posts that do not belong on the E30 M3 list... that list is obviously very focused on a specific model and they don't want to hear about 535i transmissions, M5 test drives, or 318ti brake pads. So if you are subscribed to both, please double-check before hitting the "send" button that your post is appropriate for the list that will receive it (good advice no matter what list!). Thanks in advance from me and the E30 M3 SIG, - - Rob ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 15 Mar 2000 11:04:19 -0500 From: "George, Zachariah (CICG Development)" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] RE:BMW It's true folks, at least should be confirmed, one way or another, by the end of this week! http://www.msnbc.com/news/382429.asp The profit margins that rover wiped out over the years, and all that money ploughed into rover over and above it's purchase price, boggles the mind. ..not to mention the cost of two highly valued execs. *sigh* Zach ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 15 Mar 2000 11:06:26 -0500 (EST) From: John Drendel <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] gearing suitable for US European gearing is not necessarily for the autobahn, its for use in southern Europe, especially France and Italy. Both have speed limits and neither enforce them on the autostrada or autoroute (urban areas and local roads are a different story) The further south you go, the looser it gets. Germans on the way to vacation in France or Spain in July-August will cruise 10-15 hours at 180-220 kph in ambient temperatures of 25-30 c. That's hot, and sustained running in those conditions does require a certain level of engineering, especially during daylight hours with the AC on. I stopped last summer near Aix to assist a couple in a new 328. The automatic tranny blew out all the seals. Spain is a different story. The freeways are patrolled par Generalissmo Franco's Guardia, and they are mean. I know of nowhere in N. America where you can run like that all day. Used to do in in Nevada, but no more. John > > Speaking of "gearing suitable for US conditions" - I find rather difficult > to understand this. Outside of small sections of German autobahn, just about > all countries have speed limits. Amongst other countries which get the 321 > bhp motor, Australia is limited in dreadfully draconian fashion to 68 mph. I > have travelled much faster on the freeways of California than I ever have in > New South Wales. Yet the more expensive car is sold in Oz, where the cheaper > US car would be much more appropriate (if only they would make it in RHD). > ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 15 Mar 2000 08:22:26 -0800 From: "Chen, Ray" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: RE: [uuc] E36 vs. E46 gizmonics Only DSC (or ASC-whatever depending on when your e46 was built) and ABS take control away from the driver. The DSC/ASC can be turned off. I leave it on as it hasn't posed a problem in normal street driving. If I were to ever take it to a driver's school, I'd experiment with turning it off. The rest of it is essentially all fluff. Some of it's kind of cool but it doesn't really matter. There are some people I suspect who whine about being able to display only 1 item at a time on the OBC which I think is why BMW now allows the radio to display the time so you can use the OBC display to see something else. Personally, I think that's kind of silly but whatever. My wife's Volvo displays both time and anything else (usually temperature). My OBC is set to display only the time. I find I don't miss having a constant display of the outside temperature. Of course, I live in the SF Bay area so it's not like the temperature varies *that* much anyway :-). Ray >-----Original Message----- >From: Robert Steele [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]] >Sent: Wednesday, March 15, 2000 6:13 AM >To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] >Subject: [uuc] E36 vs. E46 gizmonics > > >The E36 had ABS, ASC+T (or AST+C?), and OBC. The E46 has >these plus DSC, HPS, etc. >The radio has RDS and the list goes on. >I know that the E36 optional OBC is full function (and I >really like it). The E46 standard OBC looks like it is in >between the standard E36 display and the full OBC...so it >looks like a "downgrade" to me. > >All of which leads to my question.... >Overall, are the gizmonics (gizmo + electronics = gizmonics) >on the E46 an improvment over the E36, or have the engineers >gone overboard and taken too much away from the driver? >Certainly, the E30, with only ABS, left a lot to the driver. >Any thoughts on this... I am confortable with keeping my E36 >a few more years, but just was curious how the E46 people feel. Thanks > >Rob > >'97 328i >ASC+T >OBC >BL/SS >K&N >H&R >No RDS, except when I am driving > > >[EMAIL PROTECTED] > > > ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 15 Mar 2000 09:31:14 -0700 From: "vanderHeide, Alain" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: RE: [uuc] Uhhhhgly! It looks like something Ralph Nader and Joan Claybrook would have penned after a night of unbridled passion (speaking of images that should be excised from the mental picture gallery). "Any PC built after 1985 has the storage capacity to house an evil spirit." - - Rev. Jim Peasboro > From: Don Eilenberger [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]] > > [Toyota Echo]: > > "Yetchhh" is the term that best describes it. The original VW > bug was a case of function over form, but with some taste > moderating the functional shape. With the Echo, Toyota just > left the taste part out of the equation entirely (not the first > time they've done this - remember the strange Tercel wagon > with all the odd and different sized rear windows? - just the > worst example of it we've seen lately). ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 15 Mar 2000 11:30:15 -0500 From: "Milliet, Ron P." <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] <E30> Idle problems **PLEASE ADVISE** 86 325 (eta) with adjustable ICV, cold start valve, and Auto tranny. Problem: Will not idle or low idle (engine stalls) when cold, but then idles too fast when warm ~1000rpm. The ICV adjustment is turned in 100% to "slow idle", but idle is still high when warm. The cold "stalling" problem only occurs when you shift from park into D or R. If the car is started when dead cold, it will start easily without touching accelerator and will idle without stalling...only stalls when put in gear. This stops happening after about 2 minutes as the engine temp increases. I have checked for VAC leaks and have found none. I recently adjusted the valves per BA specs. The ICV is working although maybe not properly. Please Help!! TIA, Ron Milliet Petal, MS 87 325is http://www.dcslink.com/bmw3/index.htm 86 325e 80 911 SC http://www.dcslink.com/porsche/index.htm ------------------------------ Date: 15 Mar 2000 10:35:04 -0600 From: Vijay Nuthulapaty <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] 16x8 wheels for E36 I am trying to setup a 325i for stock class club racing. The maximum I can go on the wheels is 16x8s. What are the wheels that are available in this size for the E36. The only ones that I know of are the SSR Integrals and some BBS wheels. I am looking for something that might be a little cheaper. Any ideas? Vijay ------------------------------ Date: 15 Mar 2000 10:39:40 -0600 From: Vijay Nuthulapaty <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] Sway bars for E36 I am looking for a set of swaybars for my E36 325i. I know UUC has a new sway barbarian coming, but they do not have a date set for their release on the E36 325i. One other choice is RDSport which makes solid swaybars that I want to stay away from. Another choice is what a friend of mine recommended and is tubular and is carried by Mountain Auto Sport (or something like that) but I do not have their number/e-mail/web address. If anyone here has any contact information on this outfit, please drop me a line. Thanks, Vijay 98 M3 94 325i <-- Club racer in the making. ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 15 Mar 2000 10:54:22 -0600 (CST) From: Jefrem Iwaniw <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [uuc] 16x8 wheels for E36 Hi Vijay, Take a look at Revolutions (I've got a couple of sets -- nice and light)-- they're available from: http://www.ttrsracing.com/revolution.htm http://www.motorsportimports.com/ Another option is Compomotive (I've got a set of the MO's -- very nice wheels): http://www.usacomp.com/mo.htm HTH. - -------------------------------- - -Jefrem Iwaniw, [EMAIL PROTECTED] On 15 Mar 2000, Vijay Nuthulapaty wrote: > I am trying to setup a 325i for stock class club racing. The maximum I can > go on the wheels is 16x8s. What are the wheels that are available in this > size for the E36. The only ones that I know of are the SSR Integrals and > some BBS wheels. I am looking for something that might be a little > cheaper. > > Any ideas? > > Vijay > ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 15 Mar 2000 10:55:05 -0600 From: Dog-n-Hog <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [uuc] <E30> Idle problems **PLEASE ADVISE** Ron, Trust me, it is difficult (if not impossible) to say whether or not an ICV is actually functioning properly. All of the static tests described/prescribed in Bentley can be performed and pass with flying colors, but the ICV can still not function properly under dynamic conditions. IMO, after years of use, the springs within the ICV tend to weaken, resulting in the valve not completely following its queue/commands from the ICU/ECM. Cleaning the ICV with whatever everyone recommends can help in the short term, but in my experience, once its shot its shot. If at all possible, try another ICV (borrow one if you can). If a new one fixes the problem, throw the old one away (regardless of how well it passes the Bentley tests). GL, Norm "Milliet, Ron P." wrote: > > 86 325 (eta) with adjustable ICV, cold start valve, > and Auto tranny. > > Problem: Will not idle or low idle (engine stalls) when > cold, but then idles too fast when warm ~1000rpm. > > The ICV adjustment is turned in 100% to "slow idle", > but idle is still high when warm. > > The cold "stalling" problem only occurs when you shift > from park into D or R. If the car is started when dead > cold, it will start easily without touching accelerator and > will idle without stalling...only stalls when put in gear. This > stops happening after about 2 minutes as the engine temp > increases. > > I have checked for VAC leaks and have found none. I > recently adjusted the valves per BA specs. The ICV is > working although maybe not properly. > > Please Help!! > > TIA, > > Ron Milliet > Petal, MS > 87 325is http://www.dcslink.com/bmw3/index.htm > 86 325e > 80 911 SC http://www.dcslink.com/porsche/index.htm ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 15 Mar 2000 11:37:55 -0500 From: "Gary Derian" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [uuc] RE: First Radar Detector I had a Radar Sentry in the early 70's. I wired it up to my lighter because the battery life was very short. It used a 9 volt battery. The Fuzzbuster came out in the late 70's. I had one of those too. Much better than the Radar Sentry and useful for the high power x band radar used then. Once the Escort came out with its super-heterodyne circuits (1978?) nothing else was worthwhile. Gary Derian <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > OK - so it should be in the digests somewhere what it was.. Radar > Sentry. Although it was in the catalog as being available in kit > form - I suspect this was to get around selling an illegal device > in states which forbid it, and this was only in the later catalogs > it was listed in. IE - I think this was - a legal dodge (sorta like > how the real radar jammers - highly illegal - are sold, as a bunch > of parts, you plug together - so the manufacturer isn't selling an > illegal device - just the legal parts which you might assemble > an illegal device from). > > As far as FuzzBuster being first? Dunno - but I would hazard a guess > not.. the Radar Sentry was in catalogs back around 1964 - anyone have > a date for the first FuzzBuster? It prolly would be correct to say > the FuzzBuster was the first useful radar detector, since the Radar > Sentry was basically useless.. it was prolly inferior and cheap but > I don't think it was a 'knockoff' (a knockoff might have worked.. :-) > > > ................................................................... > Don Eilenberger, Spring Lk Hts, NJ JMP#1 [EMAIL PROTECTED] > NJ Shore BMW Riders web page: http://www.monmouth.com/~deilenberger > "You're absolutely right, and I apologize" --Darryl Richman > "Silly me... I apologize." --Tim Hall "Sorry..." --Magwa > ................................................................... ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 15 Mar 2000 11:02:28 -0600 From: Dog-n-Hog <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [uuc] <E30> Tie Rod Questions Bob Fluharty wrote: > > Changing a worn tie-rod this weekend. Mr. Bentley doesn't seem to be > telling me the whole story. Can anyone else help? > > To remove the tie rod from the rack, Bentley says unbend the lock > plate tabs, turn the wheel all the way, and use a wrench. I'm not > getting a high-definition mental picture from their description. When > I take the boot loose and can see the lock plate, will it be obvious > what I should unbend and what I should wrench? Any surprises lurking > in there? The lock plate will be obvious. Installing the new lock plate (you will need to replace it) can be a little tricky. I used a long "drift"/punch and a hammer to bend the tabs over. Before you bend the tabs over on the lock plate, make damn certain the tie rod is securely tightened/screwed-in to the rack. Use two pipe wrenches (one on each tie rod) and turn in opposite directions to make sure the tie rods are securely attached to the rack. Then bend over the lock plate tabs. > > Besides the tie rod (and the nut at the wheel end), what should I > replace? Lockplate? Boot? (looks fine from outside). Clamps? Want to > have everything I need when I start. The boot and clamps should be fine. If you choose to replace the clamps, you will need the special tool (available from any auto supply). The tool is usually called a "CV Joint Clamp Tool". Not using this tool makes the job pretty undoable, at best (IMHO). > > Thanks > Bob > Cincinnati > '87 325is - programmed for tie rod replacement at 134,600 miles ------------------------------ End of [uucdigest] V3 #445 ************************** _________________________________________ | Please visit these UUC-approved BMW parts vendors/service providers: | (listed alphabetically) | Bonneville Motorwerks . http://www.bonnevillemotorwerks.com | Circle Tire Co. 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