[uucdigest]           Monday, April 3 2000           Volume 03 : Number 558



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In this BMW UUC Digest:

       [uuc] Re: <E30> Removing E30 M3 Oil Filter
       [uuc] 325/328 vs M3
       [uuc] USELESS DIATRIBE;M3C/Z-8
       [uuc] Garage Floor Heat
       Re: [uuc] <E30> Removing E30 M3 Oil Filter
       Re: [uuc] <E30> Removing E30 M3 Oil Filter.
       Re: [uuc] <E30> Removing E30 M3 Oil Filter
       Re: [uuc] Carfax
       Re: [uuc] <E30> Removing E30 M3 Oil Filter.
       [uuc] SPRING SALE 96 328IC

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Sun, 02 Apr 2000 21:54:58 -0400
From: Filippo Morelli <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [uuc] Re: <E30> Removing E30 M3 Oil Filter

You don't have to hammer on the air filter or radiator hose clamp, nor
do you have to jam a big screwdriver through the middle of the filter to
remove an E30 M3 oil filter. And no raging baboon's worth of mess.
I definitely did some cursing the first time I ever did an E30 M3 oil filter,
but then I figured out the obvious ...

Simply, you need a little working room!

1) Remove intake bellow between AFM and airbox
2) remove AFM/air filter box
3) Loosen oil cooler line at the top (the line most in the way).
4) use your favorite oil wrench to remove. With the oil cooler line out
        of the way, now you have room.
5) hand tighten OE filter (not OEM -- Mahle filter part number is actually
        a 2002 filter. Stick with a BMW factory E30 M3 filter). Make sure
        you have lubed the rubber seal -- old oil works just fine.
6) install oil cooler line
7) install AFM/air filter box
8) install intake bellow

Note, even though hand tight, eventual removal will require the assistance
of an oil wrench, et cetera. I've yet to have an E30 M3 filter I could remove
by hand.

Cheers,

Filippo
http://www.bimmers.com/m3

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 2 Apr 2000 22:18:15 -0400
From: "Duane Collie" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [uuc] 325/328 vs M3

>I just wonder if there is any reasonable way to get my E36 to handle like
the M3, without
>a lot of aftermarket crap, and without gouging at my BMW dealer.

All you need to get the handling equal to or BETTER than a stock M3 is:

* A Set of 17" wheels ($ 1,000.00, used)
* Premium Rubber for above ( $ 900.00, new)
* New Shocks, Sport Models or similar ( $ 400)
* New Springs, Stiffer ( $ 300)
* Fatter Sway Bars ( $ 300)
* Camber Plates (optional) that make a huge difference ( $ 200)
Then if you're going to pay someone to install all that, add $ 400.00 or so.
You'll also need an alignment at $ 100.00.

Now, after all that you STILL don't have the M3 brakes (major difference),
the larger engine of the M3, the Limited Slip Rear End, the body fascia
parts, the M3 seats, and the resale value of an M3 vs. a souped up 325/28.

In most cases, you'd be better off to sell the 325/28 and buy the same year
M3 for the price differences involved.  If you even plan on SCCA racing the
car, however, the M3 is NOT the car to own as it gets destroyed in ITE
class.  In that case, hang on to the 325/28!

- - Duane Collie
THE SLED

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 2 Apr 2000 22:28:54 -0400 (EDT)
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] (John Hart)
Subject: [uuc] USELESS DIATRIBE;M3C/Z-8

Wondering if anyone has seen the next M3 up close.  I can't get into the
BMW Canadian site cuz I'm on crappy web tv...even so, I wonder if the
new car will be worth it, or should I spring for the current E36 M3
convertible, WHICH IS CURRENTLY IN SHORT AND OVERPRICED SUPPLY-what do I
expect, its spring!  
     Come to think of it, based on the sporty E46 shock/sports pack
improvements discussed on list earlier, the central question is, "could
the new M3 be more of a driver's car than the current, ended platform
(E36)?.   From visual glances of the new convertible 323ic at dealers,
it appears to me to be much too posh, with bits of chrome flash on seat
belt guides and rear headrests (E46 convertible my best guess example
for upcoming M3 convertible-next year, actually!).  Anyway, even with
gussied up purple red blue trim tabs on seats and stuff, I detect quite
a lot of Range Rover type armrest and dashboard sculpting, fairly
screaming "I'm designed for the way money looks when it builds up a car
platform after 20years" rather than a Germanic functionality or god
forbid Japanese value temple....in short, I am predisposed to think the
M-3 E46 may well be too much of a goo thing, and that means it will not
be a Q ship, but a car dripping of excess opulence. Sure it'll perform,
but will it likely be performance FIIRST all around, that altogether
quality I am told was part of the first E series M coupe?
     Tell me I'm bound to be wrong (at 50 grand)?!?!?!?!?!?!?
      P.S., In my not so humble, worthless opinion, I think the new Z8
looks like a bathroom toy submarine, and the Bimmer (periodical) is
altogether too ravishing on it..try thinking of needless markup at
dealers for a car that is chromed like a Caddy, side finned like a
Thunderbird and NEON SIGNED!!!! I just can't get over that...the low
riders have gone from under car tubing and gotten an Ubermench hold of
the taillights and side repeaters-PROBABLY A FIFTH OF THE CAR'S
DEVELOPMENT COST!!!!!  Actually, well heeled CEOs will want European
neon for that chic Bistro colour that is unavailable here, that white
that is so white that it isnt only off white, its simply...off.  
    {I look forward to seeing this car's rear end..onn the wall of
TGIF"S (rather than Hard Rock Cafe) in 20 years!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! 
     Like the Emperor's New Clothes, I can't believe this submersible
cigarmobile is a flagship.   I can't imagine how they can possibly care
about achieving volume sales to anyone with any lower tier of car they
introduce in the US, be it a "cheapened" line or bringing in the Mini
(in my vote the best BMW they never built, an English answer to the
Beetle that was more Beetle than the Beetle-who else shoulda, coulda
done that?!!!)...by volume, I mean the ever increasing majority of have
nots who can't afford such crass overkill, whom the Japanese and other
markets will be increasingly able to oblige, apart from some mythical
spirit of the 507 reborn-Volkswagen recycles better and at far cheaper
cost.  
   ...but I digress... 

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 2 Apr 2000 22:28:08 -0400
From: "Duane Collie" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [uuc] Garage Floor Heat

>We are adding an addition to our 65 year old house in
>Madison Wisconsin which includes adding a 2 car garage.  The house has a
>lower exposure so the garage will be at basement level with a family room
over it.

Wow, if I had to add a garage in from scratch, I'd look real hard at radiant
floor heat.  You have the contractor lay the pipe in the concrete itself,
then you can heat the water that flows through the pipes with solar power,
gas, electric, etc. or a combo.  This stuff is really trick, as the heat
will come from the floor itself and radiate upwards and have the added
benefit of keeping the floor of the family room warmer.  As you can probably
guess, you need to install these systems as part of the construction.  Those
that have it have really been pleased with them, and they are reasonably
economical to heat.  If you floor stays warm, you don't get near as cold
working on a car in the winter, or need a forced air heater to supplement
it.  Might be worth a look.

- - Duane Collie
The Sled <uses turbine-style kerosene heater which is smelly, and scares the
wife and kids, plus melts anything within 3 feet of the bidness end of it.

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 2 Apr 2000 20:28:30 -0700 (PDT)
From: Carlos Lopez <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [uuc] <E30> Removing E30 M3 Oil Filter

Rob Levinson wrote: 
>(snipped)This is not a new trick by any means, but I got the stuck
>filter off Ben's E30 M3 by stabbing it with a BFS (Big -------
>Screwdriver) and using that as for leverage to get it started.

Yep, we've done that too, 'twas "plan B" for this evening.  I had just
cleaned everything underneath and didn't want to make a mess of things
again, plus wasting a can of brake cleaner is sacrilege to us. ;-)
  
Andrew Taylor wrote:
>Or much easier.  Buy a leather belt at Walmart.  That's my oil filter
>wrench.

We tried using a sandpaper belt to grip the filter but that thing was
tighter than a m&%$f#@*.  What's with this?  I put on that filter hand
tight and the thing is up to 100 ft-lbs when it's ready to come off.
(exaggerating of course) 

>Oh BTW, I wouldn't recommend any oil filter but OEM for the S14.

True.  I will never use a Purolator again, only the stock 039 oil
filter from now on, especially since it's almost track season for me. 
The Purolator only rode along for the winter.

Carlos
91 M3 oil pan baffled, back to 15W50 and quieter, new fuel filter,
almost ready for Putnam. 


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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 03 Apr 2000 00:11:02 EDT
From: "Steven Reed" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [uuc] <E30> Removing E30 M3 Oil Filter.

Ahem....FATT?

Steve

>From: "Rob Levinson - UUC Motorwerks" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>Reply-To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>Subject: Re: [uuc] <E30> Removing E30 M3 Oil Filter.
>Date: Sun, 2 Apr 2000 20:40:31 -0400
>
>This is not a new trick by any means, but I got the stuck filter off Ben's
>E30 M3 (this is at least a year ago when he still had the car) by stabbing
>it with a BFS (Big ------- Screwdriver) and using that as for leverage to
>get it started.  After the cursing and yelling at the filter had not 
>worked,
>it was really quite satisfying to stab it a good one or two (or five) 
>times.
>
>Made a raging baboon's worth of mess, but we were getting desperate as we
>were about to head off to a FATT at Summit.  Nothing like leaving that
>critical stuff to the last possible minute.
>
>- Rob
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: Neil Deshpande <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>Subject: [uuc] <E30> Removing E30 M3 Oil Filter.
>
>
> > Carlos Lopez and I found ourselves unable to hand twist off the oil 
>filter
>on his E30 M3.  The filter is surrounded by oil cooler lines, 
>power-steering
>lines, etc., and this makes it really difficult to get a good grip on it.>
>Since the filter was a Purolator with a perfectly round end, we were unable
>to use the flat edged wrench we bought on it.  The wrench would have worked
>on the stock filter or the one from Mahle.
> > We ended up putting a hose clamp around the housing end of the filter 
>and
>hammering it around and off.  The hose clamp dug into the filter housing 
>and
>provided, in its screw, a place to position the screwdriver that we 
>hammered
>on to get it to turn.
> > Neil Deshpande
>
>

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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 03 Apr 2000 00:06:26 -0500
From: Andrew Taylor <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [uuc] <E30> Removing E30 M3 Oil Filter

> Andrew Taylor wrote:
> >Or much easier.  Buy a leather belt at Walmart.  That's my oil filter
> >wrench.
> 
> We tried using a sandpaper belt to grip the filter but that thing was
> tighter than a m&%$f#@*.  What's with this?  I put on that filter hand
> tight and the thing is up to 100 ft-lbs when it's ready to come off.
> (exaggerating of course)

Seriously, try a leather belt.  A belt sander's belt is different.  If
you feed the end of the leather belt through the buckle, and pull it
almost all the way through then situate the buckle on the bottom of the
filter, and pull the strap in the proper direction, you will get any
filter off.  Personally I tighten the filter about 1/2 turn past hand
tight again using the belt when reinstalling, and it does tighten more
after the heat cycling.  With the leather belt wrench, there's never
been a spin-on oil filter that doesn't come off with ease.  Not to
mention you have no problems with clearance, you don't have to remove
fragile oil cooler hoses, just the intake elbow.

Oil filter housing is Al.  Filter is not aluminum.  after many heat
cycles where the different metals expand at different rates, it tightens itself.

BTW, Fillipo's right about the OE (not OEM filter).  Buy them from the dealer.

- -Andrew

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 31 Mar 2000 13:11:52 -0800 (PST)
From: John Stoj <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [uuc] Carfax

you can check it on 

www.carfax.com/free

On Fri, 31 Mar 2000 15:54:44 -0500, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

>  If anyone on the list still have free access to carfax, I would like to
ask
>  if you would please run the following vin#. 4T1BG12K3TU951004
>  Thanks much.
>  Henry
>





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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 3 Apr 2000 01:06:58 -0400
From: "James Sheridan-Peters" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [uuc] <E30> Removing E30 M3 Oil Filter.

> Ahem....FATT?

Friday At The Track (FATT).  Basically, a track run drivers school.  Quality
of instruction is a lot more varied than at a BMW (NCC) school and is not
quite as structured.  It is, however, yet another way to get more track time
;)

See http://www.bsr-inc.com/FATT.HTM for details.

- --
James Sheridan-Peters
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
National Capital Chapter
'98 323is
'85 SCCA Spec RX-7 #00

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 3 Apr 2000 02:41:03 -0400 (EDT)
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] (John Hart)
Subject: [uuc] SPRING SALE 96 328IC

29000 MILES,  5 speed       TRIPLE BLACK/LEATHER, HTD STS, SPORT PACKAGE
WITH NEW MICHELIN PILOTS, NEW CONVERT.REAR WINDOW, NAPA BURL WOOD,
ROLLOVER PROTECTION, 200 W.SUBWOOFER/FADER, W. INCOGNITO INSTALLATION,
PIAA BULBS  FOR HI/LOW/FOGS.MIRROR/HOOD CVRS.
      LOJACK RETRIEVAL SYSTEM=MAJOR INSURANCE DISCOUNTS! BMW CERTIFIED
WARRANTY UNTIL 4/11/2002. $33.250   thanks!  John 

------------------------------

End of [uucdigest] V3 #558
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