[uucdigest] Sunday, April 2 2000 Volume 03 : Number 557 ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ | For all available Digest commands including unsubscribe/subscribe, | visit the BMW UUC Digest page: http://www.uucdigest.com | Send SUBMISSIONS to [EMAIL PROTECTED] | Complaints? Send 'em to [EMAIL PROTECTED] if you must. | Visit http://www.bubbaclub.com | www.bimmers.com - "serving enthusiasts on the 'net" | Visit http://www.bimmer.org - ultimate BMW bulletin boards! | Subscribe to the Zionsville Autosport Parts Digest: | http://www.zionsvilleautosport.com/majordomo.htm ����������������������������������������� In this BMW UUC Digest: Re: [uuc] K&N thread RE: [uuc] Random thoughts on shock absorbers [uuc] re: 325ic starting problems [uuc] Brake pad break in... [uuc] <E28>power antenna RE: [uuc] <E39> Oil change interval? [uuc] <E30> Diff. Bearing. DIY? NOT! [uuc] <E30> FS Conforti Chip for E30 325i's [uuc] <E30> Removing E30 M3 Oil Filter. [uuc] Re: E30 diff install BA Re: [uuc] <E30> Removing E30 M3 Oil Filter. [uuc] <FS> E36 Colgan bra Re: [uuc] <E30> Removing E30 M3 Oil Filter. ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Sun, 2 Apr 2000 16:57:08 -0400 From: Steven Schlossman <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [uuc] K&N thread At 12:27 PM -0700 4/2/00, K.C. Boyce wrote: >Okay, so K&N filters aren't good for engine longevity. > >So, who makes the best high-flow filter for an E30? And where can I >get one of these doo-dads? (If you tell me "BMW" and "the dealer", I'm >going to kick myself...) Don't be so hard on yourself. ;) ...steven ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 2 Apr 2000 14:07:22 -0700 From: "John Caramagno" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: RE: [uuc] Random thoughts on shock absorbers I dunno about Bilsteins. They made my turbo Volvo ride way to harsh. My 328i sport shocks have just the right compliance and control. John Caramagno Carol Feldman [EMAIL PROTECTED] - -----Original Message----- Imagine if BMW put in Bilsteins or Konis in the E46 sport package... Even the E36 M3 didn't get 'em. Imagine if you put 'em in your E46. Of course, while you're at it, may as well stick in Eibach or H&R or (gasp) Dinan springs, unless you really don't want ride harshness or want to stay in stock class in the auto-x. ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 02 Apr 2000 14:49:20 PDT From: "Chuck MacWilliam" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] re: 325ic starting problems >"Bob Pavlinski" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: I've got a 90 325ic that >won't start. Engine turnsover almost >goes ...but, >nothing. I've checked fuel pump,air flow sensors, the works. I'm >still >baffled. I had this problem once before. After pulling the fuel pump >fuse, >turning the engine until it caught and replacing the fuse Iwas on my >way. >No >luck this time. Any suggestions? >Andrew Pavlinski >325ic paper weight Andrew, Did you try your fuel filter? It may be clogged. Chuck MacWilliam '92 525i; '85 325e; '90 Chevy Silverado http://www.geocities.com/HotSprings/Spa/9057 Sacramento Valley Chapter - BMWCCA# 150982 ______________________________________________________ Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 02 Apr 2000 17:40:51 -0500 From: Mark Williams <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] Brake pad break in... I am posting this for a friend... what is the break in period/method for the pagid orange pads? i installed it today and it sucked! initial grip is ok, but the braking distance is real long. thanks franklin e30m3 please CC all responses to [EMAIL PROTECTED] Thanks in advance Mark Williams Dallas, TX ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 2 Apr 2000 15:54:04 -0700 From: Chris Chong <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] <E28>power antenna When I bought the 5er, it came with a Sony radio/tapedeck. However, it was not hooked up to the power antenna, and I don't think it can. So here's the problem... ...how do I get the power antenna to retract? I looked at it yesterday and I see 4 wires connected to it: a large grey one (the antenna itself), a thin black one (I assume it's the ground), a red one, and a white one (both are for the power I assume). I coud find no trace of any wire, except the antenna attached to the radio, in the console area. Can I some how hotwire the darn thing to get it to retract? I don't listen to the radio too much, and I am afraid of vandals. TIA. *BTW, thanks to all those who responded to my question about "Hard Starting". Special thanks to Brian Franchuk! The thermo-time wire was disconnected because the plastic clip was broken. **ABTW (also by the way), does BMW sell those plastic clips for the wire connections? Most of them in my car are broken! The previous owner and/or mechanic muct have been very rough. Chris C - -- '83 528e Bavarian Auto Club of Vancouver Island member #2137 http://members.home.net/iphoto/index.html ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 02 Apr 2000 19:06:05 -0400 From: Don Eilenberger <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: RE: [uuc] <E39> Oil change interval? >I know this has been talked about allot, but what's the final overall >opinion about oil change intervals? Should I go with the service indicator >lights or every 3,000miles? Which is better in the LONG run? > >'00 528i William, Don't take it as gospel (so folks, hold back the flames).. but the 3k interval is mostly propaganda from the oirl companies to sell more of their product. Your 528i comes with synthetic? I understand the 'normal' M52 engine goes 12-15k before the lights go off. My M-Coupe, which also has BMW paid for synthetic (which is the deal of the decade - $3.25/quart with CCA discount) in it, and the lights go off at about 7,500 miles. I'm going by the lights. You might want to do 7,500 mile intervals just 'cause it will make you feel better. Over in the real-BMW world (2 wheelers) we've been doing some extensive studies of oil properties, and the additives in the oils (http://www.ibmwr.org/otech/oilreport.html). There were lots of oils tested to see what their additive packages are as they leave the refinery. As a general observation: Additives used: 1. Acid neutralizers - used to neutralize any acidic buildup in the oil as a result of combustion byproducts (ie - sulpher which becomes sulphuric acid in the oil). 2. Extreme pressure additives - sacrifical metals added to the oil which protect against metal-to-metal contact in the case of oil failure (breakdown or oil pressure) and on surfaces like camshafts which are not pressure fed. General results (and I'd recommend reading the report in full, it's got lotta good stuff in it): 1. Dyno oils - high on extreme pressure additives, lower on acid neutralizers. 2. Synthetic oils - low on extreme pressure additives, much higher (in general) on acid neutralizers. =============================================================== This begs the question - why the difference? (Which the report doesn't answer - it isn't a report to tell you WHAT to use or WHY to use something - it's just basically facts you can use intelligently to make your own decision). My WAG is: synthetic oils are made from a better base stock, which also needs less viscosity modifiers to serve over a wider temperature range. The better base stock resists breakdown better than the dyno oils (long chain molecules less prone to 'shearing') so there is not as much need for extreme pressure additives. Conversely - the synthetic oil is engineered for longer oil changes (anyone besides me remember the 25k oil change originally claimed when Mobil-1 first came out? Guess they figured out they were shooting themselves in the wallet with that one!), hence there is a higher level of acid neutralizers added to protect against acid contamination for LONGER use intervals. =============================================================== The above section is just MY interpretation of the 'facts' on the additive packages added to oils. Your's may differ, and for anyone changing oil every 3k miles, it begs the question if 3k is good, wouldn't 2k be better, and 1k better YET, and how about every tank of gas? That would be best of all. There is going to be another report, on the actual physical properties of the oils AS they are used - being done by Motorcycle Consumer News in conjunction with Jeff DiCarlo who did the report I'm referencing. Dunno when this will be complete, but it involves a fleet of Goldwing (yuck!) bikes being run together over a long course (over 1,000 miles) under identical conditions, with regular sampling and testing of the oils by oil analysis labs. The Goldwing isn't a bad comparo for a BMW engine, since it is water cooled, so the oil won't be subject to temperature extremes seen in an air cooled motorcycle. One other thought - if you're paying for your own oil changes, it might behoove you to send a sample of your oil out for analysis after 3,000 miles, and mebbe after 7,500 miles. There are labs which will do this for quite a reasonable charge (less than one BMW oil-service at the dealer). That would give you a factual basis for deciding when your oil needs changing. I have a kit ready to go out for the M-Coupe, and I'm gonna grab some oil next change and send it out. As usual - YMMV. An older engine in not great shape (blowby fer instance) will obviously make greater demands on the oils than a newer clean burning engine. And the report did not try to cover every oil in the world, it covered mostly the ones popular in the real-BMW on-line community. Plus the original reason for the tests were that BMW (motorcycle side) was claiming the new SJ rated oils do not provide adequate protection for the BMW engines (primarily the oil/air cooled R11/R12 series - the K bike series is much like an M engine turned on it's side, and is water cooled), so some of the issues addressed are not direct crossovers to a BMW cage (but - it is my considered opinion that the BMW cage engine is a less demanding environment for oil unless you're autocrossing and get into oil-starvation mode). Sorry this got this long - but it's a topic I've had some interest in for a long time, so you got me going.. Let's see - yup - sending it to the right list :-) Best, Don Eilenberger, Spring Lk Hts, NJ JMP#1 [EMAIL PROTECTED] NJ Shore BMW Riders web page: http://www.monmouth.com/~deilenberger "You're absolutely right, and I apologize" --Darryl Richman "Silly me... I apologize." --Tim Hall "Sorry..." --Magwa "Sorry, no exceptions" --Roozbeh Chubak ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 02 Apr 2000 19:10:10 -0400 From: "Neil Deshpande" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] <E30> Diff. Bearing. DIY? NOT! KC: As far as I know, the bearings on a diff. have to be set pretty carefully for lash. Set the lash too high and you get noise and higher impact forces on the gears. Set the lash too low and the heat expansion makes for interference and wear of the gears. Various shims are involved when setting the lash. Brett Anderson once mailed me a procedure on rebuilding a diff. I read the some 30 point procedure and decided it was not worth it for now. Perhaps when I have spare transport, I will do this out of interest. Mr. Jack Money has rebuilt a Mustang diff. at work and I'd probably enlist his help. Neil Hitze has witnessed a diff. rebuild done by a mechanic friend and suggested getting it done professionally. >From what I can tell, it is a tedious task, but with some mechanical common sense and >lots of patience (and a spare car) one can pull this off. Not at all in the same >category as doing the seals though. Those are easy! Neil Deshpande 1988 325 iS 1989 325 iC *** I believe that the bearings are DIY replaceable. If anyone knows any differently, let them speak now or forever hold their peace. I'm just doing the seals & mounting bushing on the diff going into my car. I'm still waiting for the rubber to show up, though... ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 2 Apr 2000 19:21:49 EDT From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [uuc] <E30> FS Conforti Chip for E30 325i's I will sell an original Conforti Chip for 1987-91 325i's for $115 bucks - shipping included. I'm selling the car (1990 325ic). Installation is a snap - easier than an E-36. Just have to partially remove plastic cover inside glove box to access MOTRONIC. Number on Motronic is 0 261 200 380. Should work on most all E30 325i's, but check your number to be sure. New chips cost $225. Bart BMW CCA ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 02 Apr 2000 19:24:36 -0400 From: "Neil Deshpande" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] <E30> Removing E30 M3 Oil Filter. Carlos Lopez and I found ourselves unable to hand twist off the oil filter on his E30 M3. The filter is surrounded by oil cooler lines, power-steering lines, etc., and this makes it really difficult to get a good grip on it. Since the filter was a Purolator with a perfectly round end, we were unable to use the flat edged wrench we bought on it. The wrench would have worked on the stock filter or the one from Mahle. We ended up putting a hose clamp around the housing end of the filter and hammering it around and off. The hose clamp dug into the filter housing and provided, in its screw, a place to position the screwdriver that we hammered on to get it to turn. Just thought I'd pass it on. Presumably this would work on any filter. Neil Deshpande 1988 325 iS - never had trouble getting the oil filter off 1989 325 iC - likewise ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 2 Apr 2000 20:28:39 -0400 From: "Brett Anderson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] Re: E30 diff install BA > From: "K.C. Boyce" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > Subject: [uuc] E30 diff install > > Raymond asks about the seals & output bearings on a 5-series diff going > into an E30 Eta. > - - input shaft seal (remove big tight nut on input shaft, remove flange > with a puller, then replace the seal) One HUGE caveat here. Mark both the nut and the pinion before removing the nut. DO NOT tighten the nut more than 1 or 2 degees past the original position, use Loctite to make sure it stays there. Tighten it further and you'll chew up your pinion bearing in an instant. > I believe that the bearings are DIY replaceable. If anyone knows any > differently, let them speak now or forever hold their peace. Absolutely not. The side bearings are not entirely difficult to change but will require setting of back lash afterwards. Pinion bearings require a number of special tools and I'd also suggest some experience. Incorrect setting of the pinion can and will result in bearing and/or gear wear. Trust me, I blew up my first one or two..... (in my own cars of course......) Brett Anderson www.koalamotorsport.com Home of the E30 M3 CD-ROM repair manual ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 2 Apr 2000 20:40:31 -0400 From: "Rob Levinson - UUC Motorwerks" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [uuc] <E30> Removing E30 M3 Oil Filter. This is not a new trick by any means, but I got the stuck filter off Ben's E30 M3 (this is at least a year ago when he still had the car) by stabbing it with a BFS (Big ------- Screwdriver) and using that as for leverage to get it started. After the cursing and yelling at the filter had not worked, it was really quite satisfying to stab it a good one or two (or five) times. Made a raging baboon's worth of mess, but we were getting desperate as we were about to head off to a FATT at Summit. Nothing like leaving that critical stuff to the last possible minute. - - Rob - ----- Original Message ----- From: Neil Deshpande <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] <E30> Removing E30 M3 Oil Filter. > Carlos Lopez and I found ourselves unable to hand twist off the oil filter on his E30 M3. The filter is surrounded by oil cooler lines, power-steering lines, etc., and this makes it really difficult to get a good grip on it.> Since the filter was a Purolator with a perfectly round end, we were unable to use the flat edged wrench we bought on it. The wrench would have worked on the stock filter or the one from Mahle. > We ended up putting a hose clamp around the housing end of the filter and hammering it around and off. The hose clamp dug into the filter housing and provided, in its screw, a place to position the screwdriver that we hammered on to get it to turn. > Neil Deshpande ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 2 Apr 2000 21:00:44 -0400 From: Steven Schlossman <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] <FS> E36 Colgan bra Posting for a friend. E36 318/328 Colgan bra with mirror covers $65.00 1 year old Questions? contact Dave Love <mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Located in Washington DC area, FWIW. Posting for a friend means I have nothing to do with the sale. ...steven ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 02 Apr 2000 20:13:40 -0500 From: Andrew Taylor <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [uuc] <E30> Removing E30 M3 Oil Filter. Or much easier. Buy a leather belt at Walmart. That's my oil filter wrench. Oh BTW, I wouldn't recommend any oil filter but OEM for the S14. Stories used to circulate about using even the externally identical 318i M10 oil filter blowing the side out, because of the high oil pressure/flow of the S14. Andrew Neil Deshpande wrote: > > Carlos Lopez and I found ourselves unable to hand twist off the oil filter on his >E30 M3. The filter is surrounded by oil cooler lines, power-steering lines, etc., >and this makes it really difficult to get a good grip on it. > > Since the filter was a Purolator with a perfectly round end, we were unable to use >the flat edged wrench we bought on it. The wrench would have worked on the stock >filter or the one from Mahle. > > We ended up putting a hose clamp around the housing end of the filter and hammering >it around and off. The hose clamp dug into the filter housing and provided, in its >screw, a place to position the screwdriver that we hammered on to get it to turn. > > Just thought I'd pass it on. Presumably this would work on any filter. > > Neil Deshpande > 1988 325 iS - never had trouble getting the oil filter off > 1989 325 iC - likewise ------------------------------ End of [uucdigest] V3 #557 ************************** _________________________________________ | Please visit these UUC-approved BMW parts vendors/service providers: | (listed alphabetically) | Bonneville Motorwerks . http://www.bonnevillemotorwerks.com | Circle Tire Co. 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