[uucdigest]          Wednesday, April 5 2000          Volume 03 : Number 567



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In this BMW UUC Digest:

       [uuc] [FS] E30 M3 euro lighted shift knob
       Re: [uuc] <E28>power antenna
       [uuc] Removing Oil Filters
       [uuc] <All> Noisy Transmissions
       [uuc] <E30-nonM3> Performance Friction Group Purchase
       [uuc] Re: E28M5 tranny noise
       Re: [uuc] Re: Whadja find in dere?
       [uuc] E36 Autox: Mods allowed in DSP?
       [uuc] Battery Acid in Trunk
       [uuc] Do you keep your Roundels?
       [uuc] RE:Mobile-MP3 applications
       [uuc] My Split Window
       FW: [uuc] Removing Oil Filters
       [uuc] <FS> '97 M3 $8000
       [uuc] RE:88///M5 <--now sharked! 

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Date: Tue, 4 Apr 2000 10:00:49 +0100
From: "Adwo Heintjes" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [uuc] [FS] E30 M3 euro lighted shift knob

People,

Have a look at: http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=299915629

Thx,

Adwo


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Date: Tue, 4 Apr 2000 05:39:54 -0400
From: "Don Udel" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [uuc] <E28>power antenna

Here's a thought.  On my 86 535i, I did not want the antenna up whenever I
was playing a CD, so I ran the blue (antenna raise) signal wire from radio
through a switch to the white (antenna raise/lower) signal wire on the
antenna.  For the switch, I got another windows lock/unlock switch (found on
the console by the shifter to control power window lockout) from a yard.
This switch fits great in the blank panel to the right of the radio (similar
to the front/rear balance thumbwheel).  Got an extra blank from the dealer.
Trimmed it to fit, and thats it.  I'm not sure, but I'd be that the blue
wire from the radio puts out 12v to raise the antenna and ground to lower
it.  In your case, you could wire the white signal wire through the switch
to a 12 volt source.  The switch would raise/lower your antenna as needed.
Got this idea from a local guy who was showing me his new radio setup.

Just 2 cents.

Don
86 535i (antenna goes up/down when I want)
95 Miata (the other "M" car - antenna mod not yet done)

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 4 Apr 2000 07:22:09 -0500
From: "Ned Coonen" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [uuc] Removing Oil Filters

Hmmm, I bought one of those several years ago from Farm & Fleet for about
$7.00. Pretty sure mine doesn't have eccentric gears though. Just plain ol'
gears that draw the arms inward as you turn it with your 3/8" ratchet. Great
for canister type oil filters that you have bottom only access to.

...ned.

> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> Date: Mon, 3 Apr 2000 17:32:27 -0400
> From: "Duane Collie" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Subject: [uuc] Removing Oil Filters
>
> You guys are killin' me !!  Stabbing them with screwdrivers.......using
> leather belts.....BARBARIANS!!
>
> Now, if you get on the Snap-On truck you'll see the most trick little oil
> filter wrench ever made, (assuming you can get access to the filter from
the
> bottom with a 3/8" drive extension).  This oil filter wrench has three
> 'arms' that operate off a series of eccentric gears in the base of the
> wrench.  When you insert your 3/8" drive extension in the base of the
wrench
> and give it a crank, the arms rotate into the filter, grab it, and simply
> twist it off with easy rachet action.  Made in a medium and large size, I
> finde these can even take off those nasty little Honda oil filters that
are
> tucked away on many of that makers cars. About $ 20.00 each.
>
> I can put up a photo if anyone is interested.......
>
> - - Duane Collie
> The Seven Sled

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 04 Apr 2000 08:32:12 -0400
From: "Neil Deshpande" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [uuc] <All> Noisy Transmissions

In the course of my work I've measured neutral roll-over rattle on quite a few 
transmissions and read a few papers on the phenomenon.  These transmissions were then 
opened up and components removed selectively until the sound went away.

In most cases it is the layshaft, the reversing gear assy. or the overdrive gear assy. 
that goes into resonance at neutral and rattles.  Some one part of the gearbox not 
under any load.  Harmless, but irritatiting.  Some Japanese manufacturers will put a 
pre-load on these shafts at neutral to prevent the rattle.

Using a more viscous (thicker) oil damps out the rattle to and extent.  Non-sythetic 
ATF (as Mr. Anderson recommends) is more viscous that synthetic ATF.  Redline seems to 
be the thinnest to me and should make the most noise.

As usual, it is a trade-off, shift quality vs. transmission noise.  You choose!

Neil Deshpande
1988 325 iS
1989 325 iC

***

Many moons ago, someone on the old Welty Digest explained the noise. If I recall it 
had something to do with the layout of the idler (lay?)  shaft and gear?  It's nothing 
to get alarmed about, it's just a consequence of the design.

- - -Kevin

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 4 Apr 2000 08:51:10 -0400
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: [uuc] <E30-nonM3> Performance Friction Group Purchase

Greetings all,

The proprietor of Performance Friction has decided there's not
enough demand to support continued manufacture of 90-compound
pads in style 278, the front pads for non-M3 E30s.  (PF has
never made a rear pad for these cars.)  The pads are already
out of stock at the factory :(

That's the bad news.  The good news is that they would produce a
run *if* we can get together an order for 100 sets.  A friendly
supplier has agreed to work with me on this - if we can get close
enough to 100 sets then he would be willing to hold the remaining
inventory.

Assuming we can meet the minimum, the price per set would likely
be a bit below the last price I paid of $83.60.  Figure around
$80 for budgetary purposes.

Please send me *private* email if you're interested in going in
on a group purchase.  RESPONSES SENT TO THE DIGESTS WILL BE
IGNORED - I can't guarantee that I'll see every one.  Be sure to
state how many sets you'd want.  This isn't a commitment (yet)
on your part, just a showing of interest.  If replies warrant,
we'll figure out how to make this work.

Send replies to:  [EMAIL PROTECTED]

I'll be at the track tomorrow :), don't expect an instant reply.

Thanks for the bandwidth.

Steve

'91 318is  Wants more PF90s
'85 325e   What's a PF90?

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 4 Apr 2000 09:31:10 -0400
From: "Brett Anderson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [uuc] Re: E28M5 tranny noise

> From: Dave Meyer <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Subject: Re: [uuc] Re: E28M5 tranny noise
>
> Brett Anderson wrote:
> >However, first thing in trans diagnosis is remove the
> >Redline and fill with specified, non synthetic ATF.
> >(or gear oil for those with older cars)
> >
> So, is Redline fluid _bad_ for transmissions ??? (assuming
> one uses the correct Redline fluid for one's transmission).
>
> Dave Meyer

Not at all.

I've seen and heard of certain instances where a transmission did not like
Redline, or Brand X or whatever, and changing the fluid back to spec solved
the problem.

It's not a rule, it's an exception, but it's a real cheap test for a noisy
transmission before you go ripping it apart to find the problem.


Brett Anderson
www.koalamotorsport.com
Home of the E30 M3 CD-ROM repair manual

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 4 Apr 2000 09:43:55 -0400 (EDT)
From: Joe Walsh <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [uuc] Re: Whadja find in dere?

> sounds just like my wife...they just dont have a sense of humor,as when
> we first met them....! ! ! ! !
> 
> richard, brit/euro wrench,/scot exiled in texas

Here are some words of wisdom I heard some time ago...

Women marry men expecting them to change, and they NEVER do
while men marry women expecting them to NEVER change,
and they ALWAYS do.

I think it has something to do with the venus/mars issue.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 4 Apr 2000 09:43:37 -0400 (EDT)
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: [uuc] E36 Autox: Mods allowed in DSP?

[Warning: Autox Rules Question and potential WOB!  Skip if not an autox fanatic!  :-) ]

With prior apologies for dragging us into the arcane dungeon of the SCCA rulebook, 
here's a couple of questions for any of you BMW autox junkies out there (Mark Sipe, 
maybe?):

I drive a '93 325is which currently lives in DSP, and am curious about a couple of 
issues...

1) Do street prepared rules allow one to install an underbody X-brace?  The rule book 
states that "Equipment and/or specifications may be exchanged between different years 
and models of a vehicle if (a) the item is standard on the year/model from which it 
was taken, (b) the years/models are listed on the same line of Appendix A (Street 
Prepared Classes). The updated/backdated part or the part to which it is to be 
attached may not be altered, modified, machined or otherwise changed to facilitate the 
updating/backdating allowance."

So, I guess my question should be whether the x-brace is/was standard on the 325ic 
(which IS listed in the same line of Appendix A as my car)?  and in that case, am I ok 
to mount one on my car and still stay in Street Prepared?

2) Are slotted rotors allowed in street prepared classes?  The rulebook refers to 
cooling ducts, upgraded brake lines, and other mods, but there's no mention of slotted 
or drilled rotors.  Does that mean they're NOT allowed? (and yes, I realize that 
slotted rotors are not going to buy me any time on the autox course... but my car sees 
track duty too, where the slots should be more relevant)

Any help would be much appreciated.  Much to my surprise, I seem to be posting 
competitive times in class with my local club, and I'd hate for my results to be 
thrown out for illegal mods.

Thanks,
Felipe.
'93 325is
Texas Spokes 99 dsp

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 04 Apr 2000 07:25:02 -0700
From: Don Trieu <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [uuc] Battery Acid in Trunk

I just bought a 98 M3 and realized when I got it home that the old
battery has leaked acid all over the trunk and leaked outside under
the car. Looks like someone/dealer installed a new battery but did not
completely clean up the acid. Any suggestions on all to clean and what
to use to clean up the acid?

TIA
Don

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 4 Apr 2000 10:37:16 EDT
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: [uuc] Do you keep your Roundels?

Many thanks to Chris, Kim, Dave, Chris B., Jeff, Paul, Harmon, Henry, and 
Baily for responding to my request.  This list never fails to provide!

Best to all,

Carter

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 4 Apr 2000 10:47:38 -0400
From: "George, Zachariah (CICG Development)" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [uuc] RE:Mobile-MP3 applications

Steve,
        look at http://romemp3.com/home.asp
..it's an MP3 player that will also play in the 
standard cassettte deck that comes with your
BMW.
:)

Zach
'94 325i w/sport pkg. 5-spd. Sharked.
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> Date: Tue, 04 Apr 2000 02:37:24 EDT
> From: "Steven Reed" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Subject: [uuc] Mobile-MP3 applications
> 
> Does anyone have, or know about, any BMW MP3 installations?  
> I came across 
> MP3Car.com tonight and, while it's interesting, I have no 
> desire to pay 
> thousands of dollars for a real MP3 setup.  Darn...half the 
> 

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 4 Apr 2000 13:22:42 -0400
From: "Duane Collie" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [uuc] My Split Window

>Wait a minute, Duane, a '63 Vette had a cartridge filter, like a newer BMW
>except that the oil drained up your arm, not back into the pan.  No filter
>wrench required.  Spin-on filters were standard beginning in 1968.  Of
>course no split window Corvette owner would have an upgraded engine or oil
>system, it wouldn't be original.

HA!  You know them well!  Actually, my ole '63 Split Window was a mild
custom (this was back before they were 'collectible', which included a
327/350 hp engine that was out of a later car (I didn't install it, so I
can't vouch for the year of it - but it most certainly had a spin-on
filter), front bumper removed and 'glassed in, Cragar SS wheels, Side
Exhausts and Red Metalflake custom upholstery.  It also had all the emblems
removed and was hand-painted 'Covette" in red script over a white body where
appropriate. What a looker...... It was THE Babe Magnet at Florida State
University back in '74.  I paid $ 3,250 for the car as it sat, drove it two
years and sold it for $ 6K to a restorer.

I also had a '57 Vette with the 283 c.i. engine / 265 hp, dual 4- barrels,
and 4speed trans that I wished I had kept. I bought that one for $ 700.00 in
rough shape out of the south side of Chicago one day in 1973.  The guy
selling it was Hispanic with almost no command of the English language and
advertised it as "Chevrolet 2-Seater 1957 V-8" in the Chicago Tribune one
weekend. It never said 'Corvette' in the ad but I got out of the guy that
the car was a convertible.  I about flipped when I drove there on a hunch
and came into the alley way to see a blue '57 Vette that was idling away and
in driveable condition.  I got the Seven Hundred Bucks outta my wallet so
fast I dropped my billfold on the ground getting the money out 'cause two
other local boys were trying to buy it from him for $ 500.00.  I later sold
that one for $ 10K....now its worth a wee bit more than that, eh?

And I had a boring, but reliable '69 Vette Coupe with the 350/300 setup.
Then I went into 911's and that started my German Car Addiction.

- - Duane

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 04 Apr 2000 12:19:51 -0700
From: "Chao, Harvey" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: FW: [uuc] Removing Oil Filters

> ----------
> From:         Chao, Harvey
> Sent:         Tuesday, April 04, 2000 10:57 AM
> To:   'Bubbadigest'
> Subject:      [uuc] Removing Oil Filters
> 
> >From Rob's response:
>       >Barbarianism:
>       >stab and twist, cost: $3 for a screwdriver.
>       >You get dirty but are satsified in having vanquished the filter.
> Beer
>       >money left over. Primal urges satisfied without pouncing on wife's
> sister.
> 
>       >Snap-On "Enlightement":
>       >insert, crank, rotate, grab, twist while ratcheting, cost: $20
>       >You got dirty and the filter lived to fight another day.  Beer
> money spent
>       >on tool.  No satisfaction and thirsty.
> 
> Oversized channel locks.  Serrated Jaws open about 4-5", handles about 18"
> long - good grip & lots of leverage -  haven't met an oil filter yet that
> would not yield to said "persuasion".
> 
> 
> Harvey
>  - I live with fear, death, and evil...but I used to be able to turn it
> off
> and use a Mac. "  Author Unknown  
>  - Dragged over to the "Dark Side" under duress  This day, Thursday,
> 9/16/99
> - A dark day indeed!
>  - Failure is not an option. It comes bundled with your Microsoft product.
>           -- Ferenc Mantfeld
> 
> 

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 4 Apr 2000 14:59:34 -0500
From: "Jason Lile" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [uuc] <FS> '97 M3 $8000

Yeah, so it needs a little work ;)  Anybody interested in a project?  Send
me an email or give me a call and we'll discuss...  I've got pictures for
those who are serious (and not faint of heart)...  Thanks.

- -----------------------------------
Jason Lile
Zionsville Autosport
"BMW Parts Specialists"
1-800-BIMMERS
http://www.zionsvilleautosport.com
Administrator - BMW Parts Digest
- -----------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 4 Apr 2000 15:44:32 -0700 
From: "Jayne, Trux" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [uuc] RE:88///M5 <--now sharked! 

Alex, can you tell me any difference between the Dinan and the Conforti?
Trux.
M5 in Seattle.

> Date: Mon, 3 Apr 2000 13:41:02 -0500 
> From: "Cagann, Alexander" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Subject: [uuc] that enlarger thingie
> 
> Would that be a Snap On..er, Strap On???
> 
> Alex Cagann
> 88///M5 <--now sharked! 
> 
> p.s. still got a Dinan Chip available for S38's....$100
> 
> 

------------------------------

End of [uucdigest] V3 #567
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