[uucdigest] Sunday, April 9 2000 Volume 03 : Number 576 ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ | For all available Digest commands including unsubscribe/subscribe, | visit the BMW UUC Digest page: http://www.uucdigest.com | Send SUBMISSIONS to [EMAIL PROTECTED] | Complaints? Send 'em to [EMAIL PROTECTED] if you must. | Visit http://www.bubbaclub.com | www.bimmers.com - "serving enthusiasts on the 'net" | Visit http://www.bimmer.org - ultimate BMW bulletin boards! | Subscribe to the Zionsville Autosport Parts Digest: | http://www.zionsvilleautosport.com/majordomo.htm ����������������������������������������� In this BMW UUC Digest: [uuc] Attn. Engineers: Garage Exhaust Fan [uuc] [E36] Vibration problem discovered-bad "guibo" [uuc] <FS> 1997 M3 sedan - Techno Violet [uuc] Make your own air intake heat shield [uuc] FS: AllData software for 1992 318 e36 [uuc] <Trade> E36 M3 interior Re: [uuc] Loose and Stiff settings on anti-sways??? [uuc] Re: [uucdigest] V3 #575 Re: [uuc] Loose and Stiff settings on anti-sways??? Re: [uuc] Mobile-MP3 applications [uuc] 1984 533I Fuel pump problems. [uuc] Mobile-MP3 applications [uuc] H*LP: E28 Failing NOX [uuc] re: <E30> 325i minor but nagging problems ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Sat, 8 Apr 2000 18:32:34 EDT From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [uuc] Attn. Engineers: Garage Exhaust Fan I need to permanent mount a shutter-type exhaust fan through the wall of my new garage, for ventilation of fumes from small painting jobs and other noxious stuff. The building is 24'x26' with 8' ceilings. Building codes are not a concern in this area. It's not a business, so OSHA is not a concern either. I have a catalog of a zillion different kinds of fans. Can anyone tell me what CFM of air delivery the fan should be rated at for a building of this size? I know, the more the better, but what is the minimum acceptable CFM rating? Thanks, Mike Miller ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 8 Apr 2000 18:30:24 -0400 From: "Lane Flynn" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] [E36] Vibration problem discovered-bad "guibo" Thanks to everyone who offered advice on my mysterious vibration. I got under the car this afternoon, and I found that my flex disc ("guibo") is partially dissolved, so I'm presuming that this is the source of the occasional shimmy. Now the question is, what do I do about it? I presume I need to let the car sit until it is fixed as it looks like I will be stranded if the disc fails completely, so I will be without a car for two days (I don't suppose anyone in Atlanta has a spare E36 flex disc they want to sell me ;-) Once I do get the new part, is removal/replacement as simple as it looks? It looks like I just pull those six bolts, pull the old one out, put the new one in, and reinstall the bolts. Is that all there is to it? Is there anything else I need to replace while I have that disc out? Is there actually clearance around the transmission support brace to pull out the old disc (it looks like there is but I can't tell for sure)? Any other tips/advice/procedures to do this? Thanks a lot. - --Lane Flynn BMW CCA #158896 94 325is <--guibonated ;-( ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 8 Apr 2000 18:55:36 -0400 From: Ken W <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] <FS> 1997 M3 sedan - Techno Violet A friend of mine is selling his Techno Violet 1997 M3 sedan, 5 speed, with about 20k miles. It has the lux package. I'm not sure what he wants for it, but he said something about in the $30k's. Sorry I don't have details on that. The car is totally stock, except for some aftermarket stereo system he had installed. I think it is all Eclipse. The car is located in Marblehead, MA, just north of Boston. He's only selling it because he wants a 5 Touring because of the family. Please contact Jim Herman at [EMAIL PROTECTED] if you are interested. - -Ken '91 M3 '86 GTI - -- [EMAIL PROTECTED] AIM: ScopusFest ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 08 Apr 2000 20:17:49 -0500 From: Jason Leung <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] Make your own air intake heat shield Hey guys, I made my own air intake heat shield. Looks pretty decent, including weatherstripping at all. I made a short writeup of it at the request of some friends in the CCA. Here it is: http://home.flash.net/~jleung20/bmw/Heatshield.htm Hope you guys find it useful. Jason Leung 92 332i ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 8 Apr 2000 18:30:32 -0700 (PDT) From: David Moore <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] FS: AllData software for 1992 318 e36 Since I no longer have my 1992 318is in my possession, I no longer need this ALLDATA Diagnostic & Repair software for Microsoft Windows. It comes with 2 CDS, the little booklets, and the code to allow you to view all 1992 318 model diagnosis and repair information (i and is). Not sure what I paid for it....just make me a reasonable offer. reply to [EMAIL PROTECTED] Cheers, David Moore 1991 525i __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Talk to your friends online with Yahoo! Messenger. http://im.yahoo.com ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 8 Apr 2000 21:39:00 -0400 From: "Ben Liaw" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] <Trade> E36 M3 interior are you tired of your all black interior of your E36? would you like some color contrast to liven up the sea of blackness? i'm looking for E36 M3 coupe owner who would be interested in swapping interiors with the Bambislayer. all the grey leather and grey console pieces for the black ones. carpets, door panels, rear interior panels, rear parcel shelf, the works. i also have manual, heated, grey leather darth vader front and rear seats to swap as well (or keep your black seats). contact me privately. ben liaw ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 8 Apr 2000 21:54:53 EDT From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: [uuc] Loose and Stiff settings on anti-sways??? You'd think I'd know this by now, but I can't seem to remember if adjusting the sways all the way toward the end is a loose setting or stiff setting. Logic seems to dictate that the closer I get to the bend in the bar the stiffer the setting and the end setting would be loose. Is that correct? If my car is raising one of the front wheels about 2 inches in certain turns at the track, would that have anything to do with the sway bar settings or is that indicative of another type of problem? I have H&R race springs with Bilstein Sports, X-brace and strut tower brace and RD anti-sways. Thanks! Ken Arutunian '95 M3 ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 09 Apr 2000 20:28:30 -0700 From: Jordan <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] Re: [uucdigest] V3 #575 Can someone send me digest #573 Thanks Jordan 91 ///M5 ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 8 Apr 2000 22:42:45 -0400 From: "Gary Derian" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [uuc] Loose and Stiff settings on anti-sways??? Towards the end is looser. If the tire is lifting because you are running out of suspension travel, you need stiffer bars on both ends. If it is lifting because all the load has transferred off of it, the bar or springs at the opposite end could be stiffened. If the lift is a transient thing, don't worry about it too much. Gary Derian <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > You'd think I'd know this by now, but I can't seem to remember if adjusting > the sways all the way toward the end is a loose setting or stiff setting. > Logic seems to dictate that the closer I get to the bend in the bar the > stiffer the setting and the end setting would be loose. Is that correct? If > my car is raising one of the front wheels about 2 inches in certain turns at > the track, would that have anything to do with the sway bar settings or is > that indicative of another type of problem? I have H&R race springs with > Bilstein Sports, X-brace and strut tower brace and RD anti-sways. > Thanks! > > Ken Arutunian '95 M3 ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 8 Apr 2000 19:58:26 -0700 From: Aleksandr Milewski <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [uuc] Mobile-MP3 applications At 02:37 -0400 on 000404, you commanded the electrons to create a missive titled "[uuc] Mobile-MP3 applications": |Naturally, it's only logical to combine my computer knowledge with my BMW enthusiasm and try to come up with some sort of MP3 system that I could tie in to my '87 325iS. Sure it's kinda over the top and wasteful but it would be fun to possibly write a specific OS just to serve my purpose for playing music files in my car. Well, the killer solution (IMHO) is the empeg-car. See http://www.empeg.com/ for more details. |And without further adeau (sp) my question... |Does anyone have, or know about, any BMW MP3 installations? I came across MP3Car.com tonight and, while it's interesting, I have no desire to pay thousands of dollars for a real MP3 setup. Darn...half the novelty was thinking Grant (my buddy) and I came up with the idea on our own. :| Well, I'd love to see someone write the code/build the interface box to use the MID and phone control stalks in my E34 540i with my empeg. :) The empeg has a serial port, and runs linux, so the real work is in reverse engineering the phone interface. ;) - -Zandr - --------------------------------------------------------------------- Aleksandr Milewski BMWCCA #166568 SysAdmin, 530i.org '95 540i/6spd [EMAIL PROTECTED] '00 740i Sport Ben Lomond, CA '00 M Coupe ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 8 Apr 2000 23:51:13 -0400 From: "Smith, Robert III" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] 1984 533I Fuel pump problems. The external fuel pump on my 1984 533I is making a "whining" noise. In an effort to troubleshoot the problem I have done the following. 1. Crawled under the car at the passenger side rear end and confirmed the source of the noise. 2. Disconnected the power supply to the external pump. 3. Opened the trunk. 4. Exposed the top of the "in tank" fuel pump. 5. Disconnected the fuel line on the outlet end of the "in tank" fuel pump. 6. Cranked the engine and no fuel came out of the outlet line from the "in tank" pump. 7. Checked the power supply to the "in tank" pump and it was okay. I surmised that the external pump is literally "whining" because it is having to work a little harder because the "in tank" pump has failed or the filtration system on the tank pump is clogged. Before I change out the tank pump I wanted to ask our learned group if my logic and approach is /was sound. Should I just replace both pumps? Is there an acceptable amount of noise that is made by the external fuel pump? Should I have expected to see fuel emerge from the "in tank" unit when the engine was cranked? Aside from the noise the car runs fine. I understand that the car can function with just the main pump as the tank pumps serves to help prime the line, prevent vapor lock etc. It pumps at a very low pressure. As always, help and or wisdom on this matter is greatly appreciated Thanks Robert Smith III ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 09 Apr 2000 00:00:12 EDT From: "Steven Reed" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] Mobile-MP3 applications Thanks to everyone who responded. I've gotten alot of references to Empeg.com and what they provide. It's interesting...but not what I was looking for. So, I hereby close this thread (before the admins do) to save bandwidth. Thanks again. $100 E30 Stressbar Project Co-founder, $100 E30 white guage cluster guy, Steven Reed '87 325iS undergoing conversion (An E30, what a surprise) ______________________________________________________ Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 08 Apr 2000 22:08:20 PDT From: "Jan Redovich" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] H*LP: E28 Failing NOX Hi, Guys, I hope someone can h*lp me with this one. I'm in Los Angeles, California, probably the worst place to be with an older car on your hands. Our pollution limits are stricter than the rest of the state. And let me tell you -- it's not fun. The car (85 535i US 3.5L engine, US airbox, Euro computer, cat, 02 sensor) emits twice as much Nitrogen Oxide (NOx) than it's supposed to. At the same time it emits 0.0 volumes of Carbon Monoxide (CO). I know the two are related but I don't understand how. This is where I was hoping someone on the list with engineering background could come in. What would I need to do in order to increase CO? I can list attempts of fixes, and test numbers upon request, for fear of turning this e-mail into a book. Those of you who feel like h*lping me out, please respond privately. TIA, Jan. ______________________________________________________ Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 08 Apr 2000 23:00:11 PDT From: "Chuck MacWilliam" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] re: <E30> 325i minor but nagging problems >>Hi Tom. Here's what I think about the problems you're having. Date: 7 Apr 00 05:52:41 PDT From: Tom Newton <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] <E30> 325i minor but nagging problems Hi Folks: I am looking to bring my fiancee's 1989 4door austomatic 325i with 80,000 miles up to spec and have found a number of little nagging problems. Can anyone shed some light on this stuff? 1) Power Antenna stays up. The little motor hums alright, but fails to pull down the antenna when i shut the radio off. If you manually push the base of the antenna down a little when shutting off the radio, it catches, and goes down fine, and goes up fine too. But the problem starts all over again. <<Sounds like the end of the mast cord is broken. It catches when <<you push it down past the broken portion, but when the mast comes <<back up it passes the broken portion and can't retract again. Just <<buy a new mast. 2) Tachometer Back-lighting. At night, the right side of the main gauge cluster (the tach etc...) occasionally goes dark. However, when I tap on it with my knuckle, the back lighting comes back. Any easy way to fix this? Also, the heater/AC unit's back lighting has never worked. <<Just replace the bulbs. 3) The driver's side rear tail light. Similar to the tachometer back lighting, occasionally at night, I'll get a tail light (brake light) warning on the overhead panel. Sure enough the driver's side rear tail light is out. But if I tap it with my knuckle, it pops right back on. >>Same as above. Just replace the bulb. 4) Brake lining warning light. Last year, I had an independent shop re-do all the brakes. He got the new disks (the old ones were cracked toast), I supplied the pads and sensors. 8 months later the brakes work fine, but now I get an intermittent "brake lining" idiot light warning. Bad sensor, bad idiot light? How do I check? <<Check the sensors for any breaks along the wire. 5) Starting the car, long cranking time. The car runs great, and has never failed to start, but the starting time is almost always very long... probably about 5-7 seconds of cranking. I've been in other E30's and they fire right up in an instant. What are the usual causes for long cranking times? Fuel delivery system? <<Hmmm....could be the cold start valve. Just unplug it when the car <<is cold. Hold it over a tin can while someone cranks the engine. <<It should momentarily squirt some fuel. Good luck. >>Chuck MacWilliam '92 525i; '85 325e; '90 Chevy Silverado >>http://www.geocities.com/HotSprings/Spa/9057 >>Sacramento Valley Chapter - BMWCCA# 150982 ______________________________________________________ Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com ------------------------------ End of [uucdigest] V3 #576 ************************** _________________________________________ | Please visit these UUC-approved BMW parts vendors/service providers: | (listed alphabetically) | Bonneville Motorwerks . http://www.bonnevillemotorwerks.com | Circle Tire Co. (used & classic BMW parts) e-mail [EMAIL PROTECTED] | Curry's Auto Service . http://www.currysauto.com | Eurosport . http://www.eurosport-hp.com | Koala MotorSport . http://www.koalamotorsport.com | Taylor BMW - http://www.taylorbmw.com - Doc Bimmer! | The Ultimate Garage . http://www.ultimategarage.com | UUC Motorwerks . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com | Zionsville Autosport . http://www.zionsvilleautosport.com ����������������������������������������
