[uucdigest]          Saturday, April 15 2000          Volume 03 : Number 603



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In this BMW UUC Digest:

       RE: [uuc] Headlights - follow up
       [uuc] Tire size change on '99 M3
       [uuc] 95M3 CD Player problem 
       [uuc] Ok enough with the white guages!!!!!!!
       [uuc] Re: E30 ///M3 Trunk Emblem Location
       [uuc] Re: water pump and other torques....
       Re: [uuc] Ok enough with the white guages!!!!!!!
       Re: [uuc] <All> Damper on Shift Lever
       Re: [uuc] <E30> Spurious Chiming
       [uuc] All this white gauge talk...

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Fri, 14 Apr 2000 20:24:52 -0400
From: "David Ellsworth" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: RE: [uuc] Headlights - follow up

Point Taken.  I knew enough about the halogen cycle to be concerned, but now
I know more, thanks to the group.  Well done!!!

Yours,
David Ellsworth

- -----Original Message-----
From:   [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]] On Behalf Of Don Cicchetti
Sent:   Friday, April 14, 2000 6:33 PM
To:     [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject:        [uuc] Headlights - follow up

Hi all,

Previously, responding to a post about DRL's and running headlights
at reduced voltages,  David Ellsworth said:

- -------------------------
The reduced brightness is a result of reduced voltage.  This may cause a
problem with halogen headlight bulbs, it may cause a major reduction in
their life span.  It has to do with the halogen cycle that occurs within the
bulbs when they operate properly within a limited range of voltage.  The
tungsten alloy filament actually vaporizes to a very small degree the whole
time it operates.  If the voltage is right the vapor condenses back on the
filament at a rate that almost equals the evaporation rate.  Change the
voltage and the cycle brakes down, resulting in short bulb life.
- -------------------------


I was curious as to whether that was indeed the case, so I sent off
an email to Ron Francis Wire Works (ronfrancis.com - who sells the
unit to run your headlights at reduced brightness as DRLs)

Ron's reply follows:

- ----------------------------------
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Date: Fri, 14 Apr 2000 16:03:21 EDT
Subject: Re: Question
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]

Don,

I forwarded your e-mail to the company that supplies our DL-20 daytime
running light system.  The following is their response:

The customer is concerned about the shortened bulb life that may occur due
to
incomplete halogenation cycle taking place within the bulb capsule.  It has
been shown that exactly the opposite occurs when the voltage is reduced
causing the bulb to burn at a lower temperature causing the halogenation not
to be complete.

As the bulb runs at a cooler temperature in the DRL cycle, the incomplete
halogen process deposits itself on the cool side of the bulb.  This
continues
until the bulb is turned on to full power state.  When this happens the
residue that deposited on the bulb is evaporated off the surface of the bulb
and redeposits itself on the filament.  This process will be repeated every
time the vehicle is run in a DRL and then full power mode.  "No damage"
occurs to the halogen bulb during this process.

It is the function of the bulb that as it's voltage decreases, it's life
increases. Note the new line of long life and energy efficient bulbs for
household use that are actually run at lower wattage's.  Also note that a
bulb run with a dimmer control in the home lasts virtually forever.  The
same
is true for a vehicles headlights.  If you decrease the voltage going to the
headlights by just 5%, you will double the life of the bulb.  However if you
increase the voltage by 5%, you will decrease the life of the bulb by 50%.
In the case of the DRL's, we decrease the voltage by 24% from 14 volts to
approximately 10.5 volts.  Please note that each vehicle will be slightly
different and that the voltage that matters is the voltage at the
headlights.
  By doing it in this matter, the life of the headlight will be increased by
4500%.  This is the reason why all major auto manufacturers are producing
cars with low voltage DRL's for low or high beam.  They have experienced no
warranty problems with the head lights burning out prematurely.
- -----------------------

Hope this helps

DC

no commercial interest in any of these companies or products

- --
____________________________________________
Don Cicchetti   CCA member - San Diego    guitar player

'71 02/M42  "Ingrid"         -Beatnik Motor Works-
____________________________________________

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 14 Apr 2000 21:37:10 -0400
From: Eric Carnell <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [uuc] Tire size change on '99 M3

Dear all:
        I have discovered the most expensive part of driving school is
replacing those OEM Michelin Pilot Sports that came on the car.
        I'm thinking of taking off my Pilot Sports now and saving them until
when I turn in the car at the end of the lease.  In the meantime I want
a good cheap street tire that I can use at drivers' schools.
        If I upgrade the fronts to 235/45/17 and keep the rear at 245/40/17,
this would allow me to use the Yoko AVS Intermediate or the Bridgestone
Potenza RE-71.  I have heard the wider front tires give the car less
understeer as well.  I have calculated an overall diameter increase of
4.4% and a rim ratio of R86 for an 8" rim. It should work.  Has anyone
actually used this combination? 
- --Eric Carnell
national capital chapter
'99 M3
'91 M5
'95 540iA

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 14 Apr 2000 19:39:35 -0000
From: "BMW Bits" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [uuc] 95M3 CD Player problem 

Help!!! Went to use my previously well-performing CD player tonite and up
comes a message 'Disk Error 'on the radio-head unit . So I tweezle back
there and pull out der cartridge that HAD 6 CDs in it ....Lo and behold the
topmost one is missing ...as in prolly stuck in the electro-mechanical
gizzards of the player .
What to do now ?? ..apart from Punt or weep?
Is it bent-hairpin time ? or Pull-it-out-and-shake =the =crap-outta the
thing time ?...or 'open your wallet' time ?
Advice offline will be appreciated .
Bill (screwdriver mechanic ) Proud , tuneless in Seattle

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 14 Apr 2000 22:30:25 EDT
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: [uuc] Ok enough with the white guages!!!!!!!

it is an over the counter part if you want business offer carbon fiber or 
m-sport stripes!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! i would buy carbon!!!!!!!!
wes

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 14 Apr 2000 23:04:04 -0400
From: "Brett Anderson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [uuc] Re: E30 ///M3 Trunk Emblem Location

I could hazard a guess and say you saw it in my E30 M3 repair CD, 'cause
it's in there under Group 51, but I don't know if you have it.....
;-)


Brett Anderson
www.koalamotorsport.com
Home of the E30 M3 CD-ROM repair manual



> From: "Robert Nagy" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Subject: [uuc] E30 ///M3 Trunk Emblem Location
>
> I just purchased an '88 E30 ///M3 and I'm in the process of fixing it up.
I
> purchased all emblems and had stumbled upon an article on the location of
> the '///M3' Trunk emblem.  The article gave precise measurements as to
where
> it should be located.  Does anyone have this information or can point me
in
> the right direction?
> Thanks
> Bob

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 14 Apr 2000 23:06:09 -0400
From: "Brett Anderson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [uuc] Re: water pump and other torques....

The most used tools I have are 1/4 inch drive sockets.

Why?  Because I'm not a particularly strong fellow and it's real difficult
to get enough torque on a small 1/4" drive ratchet with one hand, to break a
bolt.

If it's 13mm or below, chances are pretty good that I'll use the 1/4.

Now, if you want to tighten a 10mm nut on a 6mm stud, with a 1/2 inch drive
long handle ratchet, well, you're gonna have a problem.......


Brett Anderson
www.koalamotorsport.com
Home of the E30 M3 CD-ROM repair manual

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 15 Apr 2000 00:23:13 EDT
From: "Steven Reed" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [uuc] Ok enough with the white guages!!!!!!!

Yikes, a little less on the punctuation friend.  Let me make it clear that 
this is not any kind of business venture - it's just a group purchase that I 
thought I'd let everyone in on.  I figure I might as well post it on a 
number of places so that everyone can get involved if they want to.  Don't 
shoot the messenger.  :-)

Steve

>From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>Reply-To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>Subject: [uuc] Ok enough with the white guages!!!!!!!
>Date: Fri, 14 Apr 2000 22:30:25 EDT
>
>it is an over the counter part if you want business offer carbon fiber or
>m-sport stripes!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! i would buy carbon!!!!!!!!
>wes

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Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 15 Apr 2000 00:36:19 EDT
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: [uuc] <All> Damper on Shift Lever

FYI,

Ground Control sells a solid metal sleeve to replace the rubbery shift 
dampener and provide much crisper shifts (their claim, never tried one 
myself), $39 each I believe: 

www.ground-control.com

They also have double adjustable struts that mount in the stock strut housing 
(you have to cut off the top of the strut and pull out the guts) of the E36 3 
& Z3 series vehicles, including M's with both the adjustments located at the 
top.  They also have the same for the rear as complete replacements.  At $400 
a corner this is about as cheap as it gets for DA shocks on a BMW.  For the 
M3 this saves a bunch of money since you don't have to cut off the stock 
spring perch and weld it onto another strut.  They also have coil over 
threaded collar conversions if you want to go that route rather than run 
stock/type springs.  Another neat item is a front control arm rear offset 
bushing replacement made out of no-flex delrin with a special metal housing 
to hold it in place (race-only item they say).  Finally, they also have the 
best quality adjustable front swaybar end link kit made; there is none better 
and at $99/set a bargain for sure.

Ground Control definitely has some trick parts for BMW's.


Mark Sipe 

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 14 Apr 2000 21:56:26 -0700
From: Chris Baisley <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [uuc] <E30> Spurious Chiming

Regarding the chime when braking problem, this is just a guess, but the 
brake light switch/wiring and the chime itself are not located too far 
apart under the dash.  It is possible that you have a short between the 
switched side of the brake light switch, and the chime box or the wires 
running to the chime box.  Remove the under-dash cover (cheap piece of 
cardboardy stuff held in with cheap plastic screwy things) and have a look.


Chris Baisley
1989 e30 325i 2dr 5sp Bronzite
http://www.infomatch.com/~cbaisley/bmw.htm

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 14 Apr 2000 22:39:45 -0700 (PDT)
From: Chester Wong <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [uuc] All this white gauge talk...

Man, with all this white gauge face talk, guess what happened?  Yahoo changed
the look of their mail browser to look more like a white gauge face. 
AAAAHHHHH!!!!!

=)
Chester

=====


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------------------------------

End of [uucdigest] V3 #603
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