[uucdigest] Tuesday, April 18 2000 Volume 03 : Number 614 ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ | For all available Digest commands including unsubscribe/subscribe, | visit the BMW UUC Digest page: http://www.uucdigest.com | Send SUBMISSIONS to [EMAIL PROTECTED] | Complaints? Send 'em to [EMAIL PROTECTED] if you must. | Visit http://www.bubbaclub.com | www.bimmers.com - "serving enthusiasts on the 'net" | Visit http://www.bimmer.org - ultimate BMW bulletin boards! | Subscribe to the Zionsville Autosport Parts Digest: | http://www.zionsvilleautosport.com/majordomo.htm ����������������������������������������� In this BMW UUC Digest: [uuc] <E36> Engine knocking / Door noises / UDE comments Re: [uuc] CR Wax Re: [uuc] <E28> with a clunk [uuc] Bilstein shocks Re: [uuc] Zymol Wax [uuc] <E28> Re: Metric Mechanic Engines [uuc] Wax [uuc] RE: <E28> with a clunk Re: [uuc] CR Wax [uuc] <E28> With a Click RE: [uuc] Nail in tire Re: [uuc] Nail in tire [uuc] Re: E36 parts falling off. [uuc] Toyo RA1 tire flip Re: [uuc] negative camber woes, Kumho's rubbing struts [uuc] RE: <E28> Metric Mechanic Engines ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Tue, 18 Apr 2000 01:48:46 -0700 From: Herman Chan <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] <E36> Engine knocking / Door noises / UDE comments Hey Folks, Looking for answers for these two maladies: (92 318is, 78k) 1) Engine knock under load -- occurs when pulling away from a stop sign on a hill or goosing the throttle while going up a hill. Car has original Jim C chip, and has had a diet of name brand (Chevron or 76) premium gas all its life. Crappy (but expensive) gas? Carbon buildup? Techron/BG44k time? Italian tune-up? Any component failures to check for? Engine seems to run fine aside from knock. Only recent problem was a check engine light for lambda control (1222), which extinguished itself after I poked around the O2 sensor and probed for intake leaks. No current codes. The plugs and O2 sensor are well within expected lifespan (<20k miles on both). I pulled the plugs (NGK BKR6EK) and they look fine. Still, I believe the engine may be running slightly rich, since the gas mileage has dropped 2-3 mpg from its historical average and a slightly sooty tailpipe. To offset this however, I do have to factor in that my driving pattern has flopped from 80% freeway/20% city to 20/80 for the past year. Plus less-efficient California-RFG blend gas. 2) Rubbing/scratchy noise from driver's door over bumps/rough pavement -- this vexing problem is driving me absolutely *insane*, since it's right next to my ear. Sounds like two pieces of styrofoam rubbing against each other. This started not long after I had some bodywork (dent removed and respray/blend). The frequency has gone from occasional to constant annoyance. I've tried everything I can think of to track it down, but so far it has eluded me. New door panel clips, new window regulator slides, felt or foam in strategic places, gummifledged door seal. At first I thought it was a loose vapor barrier inside the door, but I've re-secured it with new butyl tape and even used the passenger side door as a guide. I've pulled the door panel off more times than I care to count, and everything internal in the door seems to be tight. The glass is properly adjusted to factory specs. I did have to tweak the door closure/striker plate after the bodywork, but since I don't have the specs for that I just eyeballed it so the door is flush and straight. Only thing left is perhaps a loose/worn regulator or window tracks. Window does function correctly, with no binding. I'm near the end of my rope on this one. Ron B. You still out there? Any thoughts? TIA, Herman 92 318is PS-On a happier note, the X5 UDE was fun...it does drive like a BMW - -- but the high price and questionable utility may make it a less than rational choice for most people. For trucky/utility duties, I'd feel less guilty beating up on a cheaper vehicle, i.e. a real truck. The vehicle dynamics portion of the curriculum should be standard for every driver. E46 328 impressions -- mushy clutch, sloppy shifter, sport suspension a must. If you've experienced BL/SS, it's hard to go back. ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 18 Apr 2000 02:25:58 -0700 From: Herman Chan <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [uuc] CR Wax >>The latest issue of Consumer Reports shows the results of wax testing. >>Interesting reading. The categories tested against/for include durability, >And you don't want to share with us the results? Executive summary level? Yes, DO tell...my toaster needs a new coat of wax. (I'll reserve my other comments until I read the article) Herman Friend of P (feeling smart-assy, don't mind me) ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 18 Apr 2000 07:42:36 -0400 From: "Rob Levinson - UUC Motorwerks" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [uuc] <E28> with a clunk Perfect diagnosis, two of my E28s did the same thing and that's what it was. Checking them is something you can do in the driveway. The Pitman arms are also called the "dog bones" because that's what they look like, about 5" long and one on each side. You can see them just by looking under the car from the side when it is parked on the ground. If the rubber boot around each end's heim joint is shredded, they are bad. They are relatively cheap and easy to replace. - - Rob - ----- Original Message ----- From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [uuc] <E28> with a clunk > Keith wrote: > <<When I start off or back off the throttle > <<in reverse or first gear a clunk comes from the backseat. > >Turns out the Pitman arm (I think that's it. Isn't that the thing > that connects the rear axle to something?) was pretty much shot. Tony (the > mechanic) was surprised the whole rear axle hadn't fallen off the car before. > Brad Couvillon ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 18 Apr 2000 14:17:50 +0200 From: "nemetha" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] Bilstein shocks Got a E28 with Bilstein 'lowering kit'. Anyone tried to get hold of only one new shock (front left)? Apparently, they are only sold in a kit of four. Thanks, Andreas ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 18 Apr 2000 08:42:36 -0400 From: "Peter Sterne" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [uuc] Zymol Wax Hey Steve, where do you live? I have three cars, you can come over and detail them anytime 8^) Regards, Peter Sterne '93 325is '91 Miata SE '96 Volvo 850 Wagon Steven Reed wrote: > It's an interesting read but I think too much emphasis was put on the "ease > of use" category. Maybe it's just me, but I _like_ detailing a car... > > Steve > ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 18 Apr 2000 05:54:00 -0700 (PDT) From: Captain Brakefade <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] <E28> Re: Metric Mechanic Engines Also try Billet Source in GA: http://www.billetsource.com/ I considered them for headwork several years ago but ended up using a local machine shop recommended by some 'Stangbanger friends of mine. At first I was hesitant to let a shop that builds 302 Ford drag race motors work on a BMW head, but after I saw the M20 valve compression tool they made from scratch, I had no fears. Ed - ------- From: "Richard F. Viehdorfer" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] <E28> Metric Mechanic Engines I'm looking for specific information concerning the Big 6 engines that Metric Mechanic sells; specifically the upgraded engines that they sell in 3500, 3700, and 3900 sizes called the HiFlo ST Sport engines. If anyone has any direct knowledge of these engines, their design, manufacturing, reliability, performance claims, etc., I would appreciate hearing from you. They appear to be the only company I've been able to find that does any modification on the Big 6 on a normally aspirated basis, and their prices appear to be reasonable. On the 3500 engine, they claim 260 horsepower and I believe 235 torque with stock fuel injection and engine management. I am considering the purchase of one of these engines in the next 10-15,000 miles and would appreciate hearing from anyone who has had any experiences with them. As I do not want to clutter the Digest with anecdotal posts, please direct any email responses to me personally, off-list. Thanks, Rick Viehdorfer Rocky Mtn Chapter BMWCCA member - ------------------ Ed Walters [EMAIL PROTECTED] http://home.earthlink.net/~teamdfl ___________________________________________________ GO Network Mail Get Your Free, Private E-mail at http://mail.go.com ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 18 Apr 2000 08:56:01 -0400 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [uuc] Wax I see the wax thread coming back so while it is here I thought I would throw in that Consumer Reports did some wax testing last month, I just got the mag yesterday & skimmed it. You might stop buy your local book store & pick up a copy. Basically they liked Zymol for the shine, but not the durability. No big suprize what they had to say about NuFinish. Keep it away from paint if you don't like swirls & haze. Check it out... Lee 97' M3/4 Lovin the V1 ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 18 Apr 2000 08:54:18 -0400 From: "Kovac, Michael" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] RE: <E28> with a clunk >Date: Sat, 17 Apr 2094 16:58:11 -0400 >From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] >Subject: [uuc] <E28> with a clunk It's most likely the rear diff mount - had the same exact symptoms on my 1987 535i with ~160K miles. Total cost in parts and labor was $100 (I think). Keep us posted. Mike ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 18 Apr 2000 05:42:21 -0700 From: Brad Houser <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [uuc] CR Wax > >>The latest issue of Consumer Reports shows the results of wax testing. > >>Interesting reading. The categories tested against/for include durability, > > >And you don't want to share with us the results? Executive summary level? > > Yes, DO tell...my toaster needs a new coat of wax. > > (I'll reserve my other comments until I read the article) This is from memory, but I did read it last night. Some findings: 1. Zymol came out on top. 2. No wax or polish lasts more than a couple months. 3. Nothing makes a new finish any shinier (you don't need to wax a new car). 4. Multi-step systems like Mother's can take all day and give nice results, but they weren't convinced it was as good as Zymol. 5. Car wash formulas that wax while you wash don't leave any measurable amount of wax on the car, but it sure is easy to apply! Brad Houser '99 M3C (with Zaino polish - which was not rated) ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 18 Apr 2000 04:24:18 -0400 From: Robert Johnston <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] <E28> With a Click Hey Folks, I've got an '84 533i with 156k mi on it. It's recently developed a rolling click coming from what sounds to be the driver's side front wheel, i'm thinking maybe a wheel bearing, but i'm not much good at diagnosis? Any thoughts? Also, rocker/valve noise is pretty loud between 5-6K RPMS, but i heard this is typical of the big six, is that true? Thanks, Robb ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 18 Apr 2000 08:19:15 -0500 From: Luis Marques <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: RE: [uuc] Nail in tire Or you can go to Discount Tire and they will fix it for free. - -Luis Marques '97 328i "John Caramagno" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > > Take the wheel off and haul it down to any reputable tire dealer, > Goodyear for instance. They will remove the tire and patch it from the > inside. Total cost about $10. ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 18 Apr 2000 09:32:39 -0400 From: ben keyes <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [uuc] Nail in tire why is it that Discount Tire does this service for free - do they assume that (rightly) you will remember & use them to purchase/install tires when you need them ?? I know they give you a nice new free Pilot Sport 245/40-17 tire when their tire-jockey slices the stock Dunlop 8080E bead while getting it off to find the leak ;-) must be those pesky asymmetrical hump wheels.... just curious. Ben Keyes - waaay to many tires in basement right now thanks to the digest.... Luis Marques wrote: > Or you can go to Discount Tire and they will fix it for free. > > -Luis Marques > '97 328i > > "John Caramagno" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > > > > Take the wheel off and haul it down to any reputable tire dealer, > > Goodyear for instance. They will remove the tire and patch it from the > > inside. Total cost about $10. ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 18 Apr 2000 09:40:54 EDT From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [uuc] Re: E36 parts falling off. In a message dated 4/17/00 3:10:45 PM Mountain Daylight Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: << I came back from a ~300 mile trip yesterday to find a large piece of plastic hanging down from behind the front bumper cover. After getting under the car, I found that: the plastic piece that covers the bottom of the radiator was split in half and the left half was lost, it looks like whatever plastic piece that piece attaches to on the left side is gone, and the left brake duct is gone. >> I noticed the same thing with my M3 while going down the front straight of Road America at 115 or thereabouts. Very disconcerting. After a corner worker helped me pull the pieces out from under the car I put them in the trunk and later took them to my dealer. Apparently, some previous agricultural driving or maybe a parking bumper had pushed this plastic shroud up and broke most of the mounting tabs (four I believe). The last one broke on the main straight. I thought BMW should make better parts but I got little sympathy from the dealer. It was around $70 for new parts and some time under the car to R&R it. Good luck Fred Callender RMC ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 18 Apr 2000 08:16:19 -0500 From: "Simon Hunter" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] Toyo RA1 tire flip Hello all, Does anyone know if you can flip the Toyo RA1 on the rim? Meaning run the inside edge on the outside and vice versa. Thanks a lot. Had a great time at Putnam Park this weekend. Simon 88 M3 ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 18 Apr 2000 09:39:07 -0400 From: "Bryan Watts" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [uuc] negative camber woes, Kumho's rubbing struts Ken wrote: > Well, I got around to replacing my warped rotors and discovered my left front > strut as well as the right side (although to a much lesser degree) has R > compound tire marks all over the area where the spring seats in the strut > (the bottom "cup" area). I'm certain it's due to the shims that were > installed to get 2.5 degrees negative camber. Ken, my guess is that if you aren't hearing any rubbing or experiencing any weird tire wear on the insides of your front track tires, you don't have a problem. Instead, the black marks are simply due to hot rubber that your tires pick up off the track. I have the same problem. The spring seat on my Bilsteins is basically black instead of yellow. If the tires aren't in contact while the car is sitting still, then the top of the tire shouldn't be deflecting enough to cause a rub while you are cornering hard. I know tons of racers who run with about 2mm of clearance at the top and have never had a rubbing problem. If it is rubbing under hard cornering you should probably check your wheels bearings or make sure your wheels aren't bent. Good luck. - -Bryan Watts 95 M3 with black Bilsteins. ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 18 Apr 2000 06:38:11 -0700 From: Russ Coppes <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] RE: <E28> Metric Mechanic Engines Check the back issues of Grass Roots Motorsports. They did a whole write up on the M30 MM engine. Dyno hp was a little low though. RussC >> >Date: Mon, 17 Apr 2000 21:50:55 -0700 >From: "Richard F. Viehdorfer" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> >Subject: [uuc] <E28> Metric Mechanic Engines > >I'm looking for specific information concerning the Big 6 >engines that Metric >Mechanic sells; specifically the upgraded engines that they >sell in 3500, >3700, and 3900 sizes called the HiFlo ST Sport engines. > >If anyone has any direct knowledge of these engines, their design, >manufacturing, reliability, performance claims, etc., I would >appreciate >hearing from you. They appear to be the only company I've been >able to find >that does any modification on the Big 6 on a normally >aspirated basis, and >their prices appear to be reasonable. On the 3500 engine, they >claim 260 >horsepower and I believe 235 torque with stock fuel injection >and engine management. > >I am considering the purchase of one of these engines in the >next 10-15,000 >miles and would appreciate hearing from anyone who has had any >experiences >with them. As I do not want to clutter the Digest with >anecdotal posts, please >direct any email responses to me personally, off-list. > >Thanks, > >Rick Viehdorfer >Rocky Mtn Chapter BMWCCA member ------------------------------ End of [uucdigest] V3 #614 ************************** _________________________________________ | Please visit these UUC-approved BMW parts vendors/service providers: | (listed alphabetically) | Bonneville Motorwerks . http://www.bonnevillemotorwerks.com | Camptown Automotive - http://www.camptownauto.com | Circle Tire Co. (used & classic BMW parts) e-mail [EMAIL PROTECTED] | Curry's Auto Service . http://www.currysauto.com | Eurosport . http://www.eurosport-hp.com | Koala MotorSport . http://www.koalamotorsport.com | Taylor BMW - http://www.taylorbmw.com - Doc Bimmer! | The Ultimate Garage . http://www.ultimategarage.com | UUC Motorwerks . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com | Zionsville Autosport . http://www.zionsvilleautosport.com ����������������������������������������
