[uucdigest] Tuesday, April 18 2000 Volume 03 : Number 615 ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ | For all available Digest commands including unsubscribe/subscribe, | visit the BMW UUC Digest page: http://www.uucdigest.com | Send SUBMISSIONS to [EMAIL PROTECTED] | Complaints? Send 'em to [EMAIL PROTECTED] if you must. | Visit http://www.bubbaclub.com | www.bimmers.com - "serving enthusiasts on the 'net" | Visit http://www.bimmer.org - ultimate BMW bulletin boards! | Subscribe to the Zionsville Autosport Parts Digest: | http://www.zionsvilleautosport.com/majordomo.htm ����������������������������������������� In this BMW UUC Digest: [uuc] general wax question [uuc] CR Summary on Wax [uuc] E28 clunk Re: [uuc] CR Summary on Wax Fw: [uuc] Garage Floor Paint Re: [uuc] CR Summary on Wax [uuc] <E28> with a clunk Re: [uuc] <E28> Metric Mechanic Engines Re: [uuc] <E28> with a clunk [uuc] <E30> M20 Head Gaset replacement Re: [uuc] Bilstein shocks [uuc] E30 M3 part #s needed [uuc] Consumer Reports... [uuc] Re: [uucdigest] V3 #613 ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Tue, 18 Apr 2000 10:03:33 -0400 (EDT) From: Dinah G DeRoller <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] general wax question With all this talk about Zym�l, I wondered.... Wax serves three purposes: 1) it makes the car pretty 2) it protects it from dirt and damage 3) it moisturizes the paint, and keeps it from drying out. #3 is the topic in question. With modern clear coat paints, is it necessary to use an oil-based wax (like carnuba) to keep the paint in good shape? Or is a poly covering, like cullunite OK? Or is #3 completely off base? Dinah '97 M3/2 (Hellrot) ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 18 Apr 2000 08:37:44 EST From: "Chris Timmons" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] CR Summary on Wax >And you don't want to share with us the results? Executive summary level? > >Yes, DO tell...my toaster needs a new coat of wax. > >(I'll reserve my other comments until I read the article) > >Herman >Friend of P I'll try to remember the details of it and probably forget some of it (courtesy a certain strip of bars at a large, Big Ten school in Ohio), but here goes: CR painted sheets of material (for some reason I don�t think it was metallic) white, black, and another color, possibly silver or red. These sheets were waxed, left on a New Jersey roof for over a year and tested periodically. The durability test measured whether a given amount of water (a drop) would still bead. The hazing, gloss, ease of use, etc. were all subjective, so YMMV, but I trust their opinion. They also said don�t get hung up paste vs. liquid, but spray waxes were basically junk. This means your local car wash wax job doesn�t do squat. They also said the 3 step Meguiars/Mothers (don�t remember which-red bottle) wasn�t worth the effort or cost. The table ranked the results according to scores in the above categories and also listed price. I don�t remember which was first, buy Zymol (the good, non-Wal Mart, expensive stuff) scored second. It scored highly for not hazing, gloss, ease of use was moderate, and durability was average. NuFinish did pretty well (top 3, I believe), which surprised me. The TurtleWaxes of the world filled in the gaps. Here�s my take on it: if your car never sees salt, rain, midday sun, use a wax where durability isn�t an issue, hazing is low(if your car is dark) and ease of use is irrelevant. If you want to spiff up your daily driver, look for durability, ease of use, and weigh those against the cost. My choice was the TurtleWax Super Hard Shell liquid wax. Incredibly easy to put on and take off, shines well, and cost a buck fifty on sale at WM. When I buy my new M3��..cost, ease of use, and durability won�t be factors. Buy the magazine. This month�s issue also covers internet cookies and advertising (kind of intrusive, if you asked me), family sedans, vacuum cleaners, blah, blah, blah. Regards, Chris ______________________________________________________ Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 18 Apr 2000 10:45:09 EDT From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [uuc] E28 clunk Keith- Its likely your rear differential mount has failed. Same thing happened to mine at about 180K, and there was a definite "clunk" from the back like you describe. If its really bad, you can see the diff hanging down more than usual (from the front two bolts). Try putting a jack under the diff. If the diff moves up before lifting the car; that's your problem. Part is $80 or so, but putting it on takes about ten minutes (five bolts). Hope this helps- Greg >Date: Sat, 17 Apr 2094 16:58:11 -0400 >From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] >Subject: [uuc] <E28> with a clunk >I have a 1985 535i with 151K miles.When I start off or back off the throttle >in reverse or first gear a clunk comes from the backseat.A driveline >inspection revealed the following: >Guibo-Good shape >Driveshaft-Painted blue with an Atlanta Driveline sticker on it.The phone >number on the sticker is valid for the last five years only.Definite >rebuild. >With drivers side tire off the ground and tranny in neutral I can turn the >driveshaft about 1/2 inch and the tire moves back and forth.With the tire on >the ground there is still 1/4 inch of play.The play is not between the >driveshaft and the pinion flange.Could this play be the source of the >clunk?If it is,what am I looking at parts wise and dollar wise.Any help will >be appreciated. >Keith >85 535i(with a clunk) ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 18 Apr 2000 10:52:20 -0400 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: [uuc] CR Summary on Wax Chris wrote: >If you want to spiff up your daily driver, look >for durability, ease of use, and weigh those against the cost Did CR test One Grand Blitz Wax? According to some of you guys it's the cat's meow. I tried it once on my buddy's car and I would have to agree. I currently use Griot's Best of Show (I believe is the name) and it's a pain in the rear end to use. Love the smell though. Carlos 91 M3 needs detailing after this weekend ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 18 Apr 2000 11:39:24 -0400 From: "eichstad" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Fw: [uuc] Garage Floor Paint Subject: [uuc] Garage Floor Paint > Here is some information on a latex floor paint for garages for > those who are interested. It is Insl-x Hot Trax Satin Concrete and > Garage floor paint. Its main benefit, as the name implies, is to resist > hot tire pickup. Available in different colors and white tintable. > You can contact them at (800) 225-5554. > I plan to use it when we move into our next house. Other than that > usual disclaimers apply. > > Dennis Eichstaedt > Canton, Michigan (For the next month) > ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 18 Apr 2000 11:01:28 -0400 From: "Dean Boucouras" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [uuc] CR Summary on Wax CR did not test Blitz Wax. Also I believe that the Zymol that they tested was more of the liquid polish type available at Wal Mart etc. Dean ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 18 Apr 2000 11:45:57 -0400 From: "Phemister, George" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] <E28> with a clunk <<<<<<<<<[EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [uuc] <E28> with a clunk I have a 1985 535i with 151K miles.When I start off or back off the throttle in reverse or first gear a clunk comes from the backseat.A driveline inspection revealed the following: Guibo-Good shape Driveshaft-Painted blue with an Atlanta Driveline sticker on it.The phone number on the sticker is valid for the last five years only.Definite rebuild.>>>>>>>>>> I'd be looking closely at the rear suspension bushings and the four mounting holes for the diff. Look for cracks. george ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 18 Apr 2000 11:15:22 -0500 From: "Daniels, Jason S" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [uuc] <E28> Metric Mechanic Engines Here's an idea on list, call European Car, as one of their technical editors installed this engine in an old E12. They had periodic articles about the build over a years time. Starting back in about 1991. FYI. jason Daniels. - ---------- > From: Richard F. Viehdorfer <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > To: [uucdigest] <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > Subject: [uuc] <E28> Metric Mechanic Engines > Date: Monday, April 17, 2000 11:50 PM > > I'm looking for specific information concerning the Big 6 engines that Metric > Mechanic sells; specifically the upgraded engines that they sell in 3500, > 3700, and 3900 sizes called the HiFlo ST Sport engines. > > If anyone has any direct knowledge of these engines, their design, > manufacturing, reliability, performance claims, etc., I would appreciate > hearing from you. They appear to be the only company I've been able to find > that does any modification on the Big 6 on a normally aspirated basis, and > their prices appear to be reasonable. On the 3500 engine, they claim 260 > horsepower and I believe 235 torque with stock fuel injection and engine management. > > I am considering the purchase of one of these engines in the next 10-15,000 > miles and would appreciate hearing from anyone who has had any experiences > with them. As I do not want to clutter the Digest with anecdotal posts, please > direct any email responses to me personally, off-list. > > Thanks, > > Rick Viehdorfer > Rocky Mtn Chapter BMWCCA member ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 18 Apr 2000 11:18:52 -0500 From: "Daniels, Jason S" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [uuc] <E28> with a clunk Also have them check the rear subframe mounts as they are shot to with the milage you are talking about. It will greatly increse your straight line stability. jason Daniels. (sub frame mounts.....expensive job) - ---------- > From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > Subject: Re: [uuc] <E28> with a clunk > Date: Tuesday, April 18, 2000 12:45 AM > > Keith wrote: > > <<When I start off or back off the throttle > <<in reverse or first gear a clunk comes from the backseat. > > Keith, > > This happened to my '87 528e a few months ago. It had been doing it for a > while, and I finally got hacked (and annoyed) enough to take it to the > mechanic. Turns out the Pitman arm (I think that's it. Isn't that the thing > that connects the rear axle to something?) was pretty much shot. Tony (the > mechanic) was surprised the whole rear axle hadn't fallen off the car before. > > When he replaced the Pitman arm, it raised the back end up a little. I guess > the whole car was sitting right on the axle or something. It handles a lot > better now, too. Nice and tight, like it should be (well, as tight as can be > with a shaky steering wheel!). > > My suggestion to you. Take it in NOW and have it looked at. When you hear > your axle resetting like that (that's what the noise is), it's definitely NOT > good for your car, or your future health and well-being (if the axle falls > off while driving), for that matter. > > Good luck, and I hope that's the correct answer! Either way, take it in > soon. When you hear a clunk like that, something's definitely not right. > > Best, > Brad Couvillon > '87 528e auto ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 18 Apr 2000 09:21:08 -0700 From: "Boyd, David (Neighbour Boy)" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] <E30> M20 Head Gaset replacement >Hi all > >It appears that the head gasket has failed on my >e30 325ix 91. It's consuming water and there is a >bit of the frothy stuff on the dip stick and the >exhaust smells like coolant (no white smoke though). >I'll be doing the timing belt & tensioner & water pump >at the same time. The head bolts had been changed >to the new style at about 70k miles, (now 145k miles) >Do I need new bolts again? Anything else I will >need? I plan to take the head off with the manifolds >still attached. How can I confirm that the head is >not cracked? > >Thanks for any info- > >- -Matt I did the head gasket on my 325e a couple years ago. I certainly don't have the experience that most the folks on the list have, but I can offer a few pointers. The head bolts are designed to be used once so you'll need new head bolts. I would recommend getting a whole head set, it'll come with all the gaskets and bolts and things like that. When I did mine, I didn't know about this and I made several trips to the parts store because I kept finding I needed another part. I don't think the head set includes a t-belt or tensioner though. Everybody told me that the angle torque is very important when tightening the head bolts. I actually bought an angle torque gauge, but some folks just make a mark with paint and eye-ball the 90 degrees. Try and get a friend to help you lift the head off and put it back on. It's pretty heavy with the manifolds still attached and it's not something you want to drop :). When you put the timing belt covers back on, be sure to put the bottom one on first. Otherwise the top cover will scrape against the tensioner making a horrible sound and make you think you just destroyed your engine. Take your time and follow the Bentley. If I can do it, anybody can. Good luck - --David Boyd '84 325e 205k '84 318i 150k '92 325i 80k ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 18 Apr 2000 11:23:22 -0500 From: "Daniels, Jason S" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [uuc] Bilstein shocks Call anybody, they can sell you the sport strut insert that you are looking for. Should be about $65.00 for the E28. jason Daniels - ---------- > From: nemetha <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > Subject: [uuc] Bilstein shocks > Date: Tuesday, April 18, 2000 7:17 AM > > Got a E28 with Bilstein 'lowering kit'. Anyone tried to get hold of only one > new shock (front left)? Apparently, they are only sold in a kit of four. > > Thanks, > Andreas ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 18 Apr 2000 11:35:11 -0500 From: Michael Weishaar <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] E30 M3 part #s needed I really need to get the part numbers for the three relays behind the coolant overflow bottle on an 88 M3. I know the orange one is the fuel, and the others are the main and the purge. I called a dealer, and they couldn't really help me. They said the numbers would be on each relay, but I won't be able to check until tonight, and I need to get these puppies ordered today so I can have them by the weekend. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks. Michael 88 M3 ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 18 Apr 2000 09:36:16 -0700 From: Steve Albrecht <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] Consumer Reports... I read the Consumer Reports article on waxes this morning sitting in the waiting room at my doctor's office. Nothing serious, it's just when you get as old as dirt, you need to keep tabs on things like cholesterol, especially when it was up at 300+. Anyway, Zymol came out on top, but not by much. Actually, no wax tested was great in all catagories. Zymol's problem was that it was a lot of work to apply and buff off, it had the shortest lifespan, and the highest price. The NuFinish paste finished in second place, and it had a very high durability rating. I was really surprised with their assessments of the Meguire's and Mother's three step processes. In short, they are worthless. Sheesh! Not tested at all was my current favorite, Zaino Brothers. It is the easiest wax I have ever used, and using the Consumer Reports testing standard for durability, it lasts about six months, even on my wheels. In fact, my '95 was last waxed back in August in preparation for the BMW Concourse at Quail Lodge in Carmel. It still beads water in very tall domes. I used to use Zymol religiously, but when I did a side by side comparrison on the hood, the Zaino made the the Zymol side look like it was polished with a brick! Check it out. http://www.zainobros.com/ I do not work for Zaino, I'm just a very pleased customer. Steve Albrecht Golden Gate Chapter '00 540i/6 '95 540iA ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 18 Apr 2000 09:41:52 -0700 From: Jeffrey Stowe <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] Re: [uucdigest] V3 #613 Olivia, I have been using the Anza Park and Sky lot for years with complete satisfaction. Except for getting very dirty nothing has ever happened to my car at this lot (Parked for up to two weeks sometimes). THey pick you up and drop you off right at your car so no worries about walking through a dark parking lot. They are south of the airport off 101 at the Anza blvd exit. jeff 98M3/4 >Date: Mon, 17 Apr 2000 23:09:07 -0700 >From: Olivia Simantob <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> >Subject: [uuc] to SF area listers: SFO parking questions > >To Bay Area flying bimmer enthusiasts: > >Any recommendations on long-term parking at SFO (only for 48 hours)? >I have heard rumors that there is a more expensive, gated, >well-guarded area that one can park next to for a little added >security, but does anyone know where that is? Is it better to park >in a higher-traffic/visibility or a more remote area? > >TIA, > >Olivia >'93 325iC ------------------------------ End of [uucdigest] V3 #615 ************************** _________________________________________ | Please visit these UUC-approved BMW parts vendors/service providers: | (listed alphabetically) | Bonneville Motorwerks . http://www.bonnevillemotorwerks.com | Camptown Automotive - http://www.camptownauto.com | Circle Tire Co. 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