[uucdigest] Tuesday, April 18 2000 Volume 03 : Number 618 ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ | For all available Digest commands including unsubscribe/subscribe, | visit the BMW UUC Digest page: http://www.uucdigest.com | Send SUBMISSIONS to [EMAIL PROTECTED] | Complaints? Send 'em to [EMAIL PROTECTED] if you must. | Visit http://www.bubbaclub.com | www.bimmers.com - "serving enthusiasts on the 'net" | Visit http://www.bimmer.org - ultimate BMW bulletin boards! | Subscribe to the Zionsville Autosport Parts Digest: | http://www.zionsvilleautosport.com/majordomo.htm ����������������������������������������� In this BMW UUC Digest: Re: [uuc] Reply - Plastic padding under front of car [uuc] Zymol. Where to order? [uuc] <E34> Pre-purchase Ponderings Re: [uuc] UUC SS EVO install HELP! - finally installed [uuc] Maryland inspections? [uuc] E34 clunk Re: [uuc] E34 clunk [uuc] Re: Garage Floor Paint [uuc] <M42>Bentley section wanted [uuc] Re: Special German Wax [uuc] GREAT image of '91 M3 RE: [uuc] A & P thread [uuc] Re:E36 alarm false alarms & a/c sight glass BA [uuc] PF "Z" and Autozone vs Porterfield R4-S RE: [uuc] Nail in tire ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Tue, 18 Apr 2000 18:14:44 -0700 From: Jim Ochi <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [uuc] Reply - Plastic padding under front of car At 12:01 PM 4/18/00 -0500, Harmon W. Fischer wrote: >I lost that misearable p.o.s. on both my '95 and '98 M3s. >The OEM part can easily be damaged by parking area >stops, as it lives maybe 1 1/2" - 2" lower than the bottom >of the front bumper cover. If you drive too close to one of >them, when you back up it snags on the stop and tears >the part. Bumping the bottom of the bumper cover against curbs or parking blocks (or if you hit enough cones at the autocross!) also loosens up the fasteners, or starts tearing out the plastic screw holes in those stupid pieces. Then, when you reach warp speed, the part just blows off. Another problem is if you take it to the dealer to be repaired, and they assign an incompetent junior tool monkey to put it back on - I didn't know any better, so when the car was in for service, I asked them to put all the covers back on. The idiots didn't have the right screws, so they used small-headed sheet metal screws (without washers) to put it back together. A month later, everything blew off again... >There is an answer! J T Designs makes a replacement kit >of what seems to be black anodized aluminum - retail is >about $150. There's another solution, if you're willing to do a little metal work. There are basically two things that fail - the screw hole rips out, or (for the center splash guard) the little square plastic piece that acts like a drywall anchor cracks and pulls out of the metal bracket that's attached to the body. What I've done on my car is to reinforce all the screw holes with bent pieces of metal, pop-riveted and cemented into place. I've reinforced the four tabs on the center splash guard, and the two tabs on each of the wheel well liners with L brackets made out of galvanized steel (Simpson Strong-Tie plates, number A21, purchased from Home Depot for something like 39 cents each...). For the center splash guard, I replaced the two front sheet metal screws and the plastic pieces that they screw into with nuts and bolts, using washers to spread the load as much as possible. I couldn't find a way to replace the two back screws with nuts and bolts, so I just replaced the plastic pieces with new ones, and screwed it all together with the stock screws (the ones with the captive washer). I've also replaced the triangular pieces that go in front of each wheel with the ones off a 328 - these are flat, and don't hang down below the air dam. So far, it has been a year and a half since the last time everything blew off, and all the pieces are where they're supposed to be. I've had to replace one of the triangular pieces after it was demolished in a high-speed cone hit, but the center piece and the wheel well liners are still firmly in place... Hope this helps, Jim Ochi [EMAIL PROTECTED] ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 19 Apr 2000 09:45:00 +0800 From: "Chapman Lam" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] Zymol. Where to order? So much about the Zymol stuff. Can anyone please tell me which web site can I find these stuff and where is a good place to order? Chap ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 18 Apr 2000 20:45:08 -0500 From: Steve Conner <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] <E34> Pre-purchase Ponderings What is the general reaction to buying a 1991 525i with 240K miles and auto trans? Price is very good, condition is not bad, but many small things to fix up. My significant other had the intitial reaction to run and hide, but after looking at the car and driving it, we are both somewhat excited about it. Looking for the combined wisdom of this group regarding potential problems or concerns with this many miles. It is for our son who is in college and may take some long distance trips. I need reliability. TIA for any feedback. Steve Conner Kokomo, IN ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 18 Apr 2000 18:48:25 -0700 (PDT) From: Jay Guillermo <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [uuc] UUC SS EVO install HELP! - finally installed Yep! Right on the money. A bit of corrosion on the tip kept it from sliding in. Never had the chance last sunday, so just wrapped up tonight. Then took it out for a spin. WOW! I've never tried shifting a shortshift before, but I can feel that the difference is really great! Thanks for all the support, Rob. It's really nice you took time and patience to deal with my problem. Now, the next upgrade will be exhaust. Not enough budget so if anyone has a '95 M3 muffler collecting dust (NJ/NYC area), let me know how much you would be willing to sell it. - --- Rob Levinson - UUC Motorwerks <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > I bet I know what the problem is... a slight bit of corrossion > build-up on the tip of the selector rod pin is preventing it from > going through the lower pivot assembly. > > Clean up the tip with some fine-grit sandpaper (make sure you clean it > thoroughly afterward to avoid getting grit in the pivot) and it should > slide right in. > > Regards, > - Rob Levinson > UUC Motorwerks * www.uucmotorwerks.com * 732-398-0001 > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: Jay Guillermo <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > Subject: [uuc] UUC SS EVO install HELP! - again > > > > Hi guys, > > > > I'm really dissapointed at myself right now for not being able to > finish the > > install of the UUC EVO. From what I've read, people (DIYers) have > no trouble > > removing the old shifter and installing the EVO. > > > > That's not my case. First I broke one of the clip's arm during > removal. That > > I got over with the help of Rob and Neil. After that everything is > smooth > > until I came to putting the rod back into the shifter. I just can't > get it in. > > Now I don't have a ride to work and most likely take a day off > > tomorrow(Monday) and find somebody who can continue the install. > I'm very > > close of doing it myself but just can't. > > > __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Send online invitations with Yahoo! Invites. http://invites.yahoo.com ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 18 Apr 2000 21:58:04 -0400 From: Steven Schlossman <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] Maryland inspections? I'm purchasing a 318ti that has clear corner turn signals. I know it's a DOT violation but is it a Maryland inspection violation? I would think all I'd need are some amber reflectors on each front corner to comply with DOT, not that I'd keep them on there. Does anyone have 1995-1999 E36 amber turn signals in the Washington, DC area that they can lend me if I need to install them to pass inspection? ...steven ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 18 Apr 2000 21:23:36 -0500 From: "Robert B. Kasten" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] E34 clunk Upon acquiring my E34 several months ago I began work on "freshening up" the front end, and eliminating several nasty front end clunks. I replaced both front stabilizer links, and that cured nasty clunk #1. Then I replaced both thrust rods, and that cured nasty clunk #2 Now it's all nice and solid and quiet, except in a sharp left turn I get a fairly sharp metallic snap/clunk from the right front strut/knuckle area. And then as the wheel straightens out it snaps/clunks again from the same place. I barely feel anything in the wheel when it "snaps", but the sound is disconcerting. Of course, the E34 is a very quiet car and any out-of the-ordinary chassis noise is clearly heard. I am at a loss, and wondering whether I should start replacing things. Any good ideas where to start? Thrust rods and stab links are fresh; tie rod ends are tight. Control arms have less than 50k, and the struts, strut bearing, and spring pads have less than 10k. TIA! Bob Kasten '88 535i '95 540i ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 18 Apr 2000 19:34:55 -0700 From: Jim Powell <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [uuc] E34 clunk If you had an E30 I'd say you had a loose strut insert retainer nut. You reach in with a large pair of channel locks and tighten it. A loose nut lets the insert move up and down. When it gets really loose, it rattles all the time. I don't know if E34s have the strut insert or not. I know the E36 does not. Jim "Robert B. Kasten" wrote: > > Upon acquiring my E34 several months ago I began work on "freshening > up" the front end, and eliminating several nasty front end clunks. > > I replaced both front stabilizer links, and that cured nasty clunk #1. > Then I replaced both thrust rods, and that cured nasty clunk #2 > > Now it's all nice and solid and quiet, except in a sharp left turn I > get a fairly sharp metallic snap/clunk from the right front > strut/knuckle area. And then as the wheel straightens out it > snaps/clunks again from the same place. > > I barely feel anything in the wheel when it "snaps", but the sound is > disconcerting. Of course, the E34 is a very quiet car and any out-of > the-ordinary chassis noise is clearly heard. > > I am at a loss, and wondering whether I should start replacing things. > Any good ideas where to start? Thrust rods and stab links are fresh; > tie rod ends are tight. Control arms have less than 50k, and the > struts, strut bearing, and spring pads have less than 10k. > > TIA! > > Bob Kasten > '88 535i > '95 540i ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 18 Apr 2000 22:55:10 EDT From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [uuc] Re: Garage Floor Paint In a message dated 4/18/00 7:13:00 PM Pacific Daylight Time, Andrew Taylor <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> writes: > Sherwin Williams Industrial two part epoxy floor paint. Two part epoxy > is the only way to paint a garage floor. Pretty expensive for paint > ($45/gal), but it's virtually indestructable. I can heartily second Andrew's recommendation. If it doesn't lift up on hot tires in Vegas, it won't most other places in the US either! Wear a respirator with organic vapor cartridges when applying though. Nasty stuff. One kit (two gallons) will do about 400 square feet (two coats) when rolled on. Cheers, Kirk Lachman Las Vegas, NV ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 18 Apr 2000 22:03:12 -0500 From: neil <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] <M42>Bentley section wanted Would anyone with the Bentley E36 be willing to copy the M42 engine and cooling section for me (fully compensated, of course)? I have the E30 Bentley, but it lacks ANY M42 info. I realize that the E36 M42 info might be slightly different, but it's better than the nothing that I have now, and the engine is the same. In a related topic, I ordered the radiator for my 318is from Vertex yesterday, and it should be here by Friday, along with the control arms for my 325is (dummy me forgot to get the ball joint tool (It don't want to use the big-hammer trick again)). Anything I should be aware of in this radiator procedure, or is it really as simple as it seems? Is there anyplace that buys slightly leaky radiators, or will it become garage decoration? TIA - -- Do Svedanya! Neil Hitze '91 318is <-soon to get a radiator transplant '87 325is <-soon to get control arm transplants '85 318i <-soon to rust more http://www.hitze.com/~neil "..the underdog will eventually survive...." --Colin James Hay "This is not a step." --Heywood Banks Star Trek stuff for sale: http://www.hitze.com/~neil/startrek/startrekforsale.htm ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 18 Apr 2000 20:08:24 -0700 From: "v1rotate" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] Re: Special German Wax What was that stuff I used to get for free, came in a skinny red plastic bottle and had some German name? Got it at the BMW motorcycle shop I worked at in the late 80's. I figured it must be liquid magic because I noticed that it was around 16~18 bucks for that tiny red bottle. I have to say, it was the best stuff I have ever used (results) but I would never pay that much for it. Just wondering if it was tested. Dan 89 535I 87 K100RS German cars, German Bikes, German sailplanes, those guys are pretty smart. ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 18 Apr 2000 20:16:33 -0700 From: Ed Coleman <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] GREAT image of '91 M3 A few weeks ago someone posted the URL of a site that had a couple of GREAT jpeg images, including a '91 M3 racer (#17) in "Bastos" livery. The background was a crimson sunset with a dark blue sky above and a lighter blue foreground. That image made a great wallpaper for my computer, but somehow my copy of the file became corrupted (THANKS Microsoft!). Does anyone still have (a) that image, or (b) the URL? If so, could you e-mail me privately (unless someone else here wants it, too). Thanks! Ed Coleman '95 Boston Green M3 Lux Roadrunner Chapter ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 18 Apr 2000 23:41:38 -0400 From: "Michael S. Radcliffe" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: RE: [uuc] A & P thread My father used to tell us to "Eat every bean & pea/pee on your plate. It wasn't until many years later that my sisters explained the joke. (I was a backward child). Mike Radcliffe 90 325ica (OBMWC) ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 18 Apr 2000 23:48:02 -0400 From: "Brett Anderson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] Re:E36 alarm false alarms & a/c sight glass BA > From: "Mendez, Andrew D." <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > Subject: [uuc] E36 alarm false alarms & a/c sight glass & FS:K&N > >My alarm has twice > gone off for no reason at 3 & 4 am in the past couple of weeks. Also, info > on how to adjust the DIP switches to reduce sensitivity and what the setting > should be on an E36 coupe would be appreciated (the alarm owner's manual > doesn't cover this). What year car? What code from the alarm? > Second, can anyone tell me where the a/c sight glass is on E36 M3s or E36s > generally? I can't find the damn thing, and suspect the car doesn't have > one. There isn't one. Brett Anderson www.koalamotorsport.com Home of the E30 M3 CD-ROM repair manual ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 18 Apr 2000 22:58:30 -0500 From: Mark Williams <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] PF "Z" and Autozone vs Porterfield R4-S Recently, I asked which pad was preferred PF "Z" or Porterfield R4-S. I had narrowed my choices down to these two finalists in the World of Street Pads...The favorite in a landslide was the Porterfield R4-S. For street duty, it seems conventional wisdom is the carbon kevlar Porterfield R4-S has better grip than the carbon metallic Performance Friction "Z" when cold. Both dust very little and have good stopping power. The R4-S apparently also fare better when pressed into track duty as well. When it comes to track pads, unanimous opinion was that the Performance Friction PF90 easily gets the nod over the Porterfield R4 (race compund). The best price I found for the R4-S was $79.20 front and $63.20 rear for the sets from http://www.porterfield-brakes.com/ by calling and speaking with Jackie and asking for the M3 discount. HMS motorsport had the PF "Z" at $110 front and $107 rear. Autozone had the PF "Z" at $156 front and $64 rear (?!) with a lifetime replacement policy. Bring them a set of dead pads and they give you a new set free. Economics spoke to me and I had to go with the Autozone deal.. I plan to use these pads for street and autocross duty and rotate in PF90's for the track. The pads were at my local Autozone two days after I paid for them. I think I can live with the #2 pad since I won't need to pay for another set.... EVER. I'll be sure to call ahead when I need to replace the "Z"'s. Now if I can only strong-arm the local Autozone pups into carrying the PF90 (heh heh)..... Many thanks to all those that responded to my original post. Mark Williams Dallas, TX 91 ///M3 ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 18 Apr 2000 21:17:18 -0700 From: "John Caramagno" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: RE: [uuc] Nail in tire I thought all the profit was in the labor at most tire dealers. Never been to Discount Tire. John Caramagno Carol Feldman [EMAIL PROTECTED] - -----Original Message----- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of ben keyes Sent: Tuesday, April 18, 2000 6:33 AM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: [uuc] Nail in tire why is it that Discount Tire does this service for free - do they assume that (rightly) you will remember & use them to purchase/install tires when you need them ?? I know they give you a nice new free Pilot Sport 245/40-17 tire when their tire-jockey slices the stock Dunlop 8080E bead while getting it off to find the leak ;-) must be those pesky asymmetrical hump wheels.... just curious. Ben Keyes - waaay to many tires in basement right now thanks to the digest.... Luis Marques wrote: > Or you can go to Discount Tire and they will fix it for free. > > -Luis Marques > '97 328i > > "John Caramagno" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > > > > Take the wheel off and haul it down to any reputable tire dealer, > > Goodyear for instance. They will remove the tire and patch it from the > > inside. Total cost about $10. ------------------------------ End of [uucdigest] V3 #618 ************************** _________________________________________ | Please visit these UUC-approved BMW parts vendors/service providers: | (listed alphabetically) | Bonneville Motorwerks . http://www.bonnevillemotorwerks.com | Camptown Automotive - http://www.camptownauto.com | Circle Tire Co. (used & classic BMW parts) e-mail [EMAIL PROTECTED] | Curry's Auto Service . http://www.currysauto.com | Eurosport . http://www.eurosport-hp.com | Koala MotorSport . http://www.koalamotorsport.com | Taylor BMW - http://www.taylorbmw.com - Doc Bimmer! | The Ultimate Garage . http://www.ultimategarage.com | UUC Motorwerks . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com | Zionsville Autosport . http://www.zionsvilleautosport.com ����������������������������������������
