[uucdigest] Wednesday, April 19 2000 Volume 03 : Number 621 ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ | For all available Digest commands including unsubscribe/subscribe, | visit the BMW UUC Digest page: http://www.uucdigest.com | Send SUBMISSIONS to [EMAIL PROTECTED] | Complaints? Send 'em to [EMAIL PROTECTED] if you must. | Visit http://www.bubbaclub.com | www.bimmers.com - "serving enthusiasts on the 'net" | Visit http://www.bimmer.org - ultimate BMW bulletin boards! | Subscribe to the Zionsville Autosport Parts Digest: | http://www.zionsvilleautosport.com/majordomo.htm ����������������������������������������� In this BMW UUC Digest: RE: [uuc] Re: Special German Wax Re: [uuc] Great image of '91 M3 [uuc] RE: West Dent Fest 2000? [uuc] E34 [uuc] Too funny to keep to myself [uuc] ///M Seat Badges [uuc] Re: Garage Floor Paint [uuc] <E23, E28> seat repair [uuc] Reply to Helmet Question [uuc] German Wax Re: [uuc] Reply to Helmet Question [uuc] Re:E36 alarm false alarms & a/c sight glass ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Wed, 19 Apr 2000 10:25:51 -0400 From: "Holmes, Michael A (Michael)" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: RE: [uuc] Re: Special German Wax That lighter fluid trick is just that. The fluid evaporates away from the surface and it is this vapor that burns, you can do it on your hand too ! It wont harm the paint unless you have rubbish on the paint that heats up, or becomes a wick for the fluid. NOTE if you do it on your hand the hairs stick up into the flame area ! Mike with singed hairs on his hand 8) > ---------- > From: Brad Houser[SMTP:[EMAIL PROTECTED]] > Reply To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > Sent: Wednesday, April 19, 2000 9:19 AM > To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > Subject: Re: [uuc] Re: Special German Wax > > From: "v1rotate" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > > > > What was that stuff I used to get for free, came in a skinny red plastic > > bottle and had some German name? > > Sounds like Klasse All In One. > > > Got it at the BMW motorcycle shop I worked at in the late 80's. I > figured > it > > must be liquid magic because I > > noticed that it was around 16~18 bucks for that tiny red bottle. > > I have to say, it was the best stuff I have ever used (results) but I > would > > never pay that much for it. Just > > wondering if it was tested. > > I don't remember seeing it in the list, but I still have some. It is an > acrylic finish. > > I was at a car show in the 80's where they were demonstrating how you > could > spray lighter fluid on the car and light it after applying Klasse. After > the > flames went out, they just rubbed off the residue and the shine was still > perfect. Great for the "WOW" effect, but I don't know if I would want to > try > it on my car. > > Brad Houser > '99 M3C > Zainoized > > ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 19 Apr 2000 09:39:39 -0500 From: Michael Weishaar <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [uuc] Great image of '91 M3 I put this image on my web page, along with some cools ones of the M3 in DTM races. (those are in a zip file you can download) They are all in jpg format. http://www.enteract.com/~weishaar/bmw/ ///Michael 88 M3 Luis H Rueda wrote: > > Steven, > > I just emailed Ed & you the bmp file. > Unfortunately I don't have a website > to post it publicly. Maybe you can > do this? > > Luis > CCA member > '95 M3 > > Date: Wed, 19 Apr 2000 00:14:58 EDT > From: "Steven Reed" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > Subject: Re: [uuc] GREAT image of '91 M3 > > I want it too..post it publicly. > > Steve > > >From: Ed Coleman <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > >Reply-To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > >To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > >Subject: [uuc] GREAT image of '91 M3 > >Date: Tue, 18 Apr 2000 20:16:33 -0700 > > > >A few weeks ago someone posted the URL of a site that had a couple of > >GREAT jpeg images, including a '91 M3 racer (#17) in "Bastos" livery. > >The background was a crimson sunset with a dark blue sky above and a > >lighter blue foreground. > > > >That image made a great wallpaper for my computer, but somehow my > >copy of the file became corrupted (THANKS Microsoft!). > > > >Does anyone still have (a) that image, or (b) the URL? If so, could > >you e-mail me privately (unless someone else here wants it, too). > > > >Thanks! > >Ed Coleman > >'95 Boston Green M3 Lux > >Roadrunner Chapter ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 19 Apr 2000 07:44:55 -0700 From: "PhilBell" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] RE: West Dent Fest 2000? Jan wrote "Jan Redovich" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] West Dent Fest 2000? Hi Guys, I got a dent in the side of my car, as of Sunday - an unfortunate accident. It's a dent I caused with my knee, when I lost balance. It's about 2" in diameter. Would it be possible to remove it myself? Do I need special tools? What would be the process itself? Otherwise, I was wondering if anybody here in Los Angeles knew of a dent removal guy? Maybe we can organize a Dent Fest on the West Coast... . TIA, Jan. Jan - If you want to come to San Diego, I can set you up with a guy that did my E30 - you can't tell where he did it though, as he has 6 years experience. works 99% of his time for local dealerships. Definitely an artist. Phil Bell 88 325iX ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 19 Apr 2000 10:43:07 -0400 From: "Phemister, George" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] E34 <<<<<<<<<,From: Jim Powell <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [uuc] E34 clunk If you had an E30 I'd say you had a loose strut insert retainer nut. You reach in with a large pair of channel locks and tighten it. A loose nut lets the insert move up and down. When it gets really loose, it rattles all the time. I don't know if E34s have the strut insert or not. I know the E36 does not. Jim "Robert B. Kasten" wrote: > > Upon acquiring my E34 several months ago I began work on "freshening > up" the front end, and eliminating several nasty front end clunks. >snip>> I'd be looking at the strut bearing too. george ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 19 Apr 2000 07:52:19 -0700 From: Jim Powell <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] Too funny to keep to myself I think I have commented enough on stupid things that BMW engineering has done. I've always found some details that go for freaking years in BMWs to be out of step with their normal meticulous detail. Who can forget the dash mounted swimming pools with ECU waterfall enhancements. Or the parking lights that get sucked out of the fenders at high speed. Or the ...... Well enough of that. I've found the ultimate in stupidity. I swear I'm not making this up. Really. From the land of Kidney Pie and all things bland, England, comes something too bizarre to have been done by accident. This has to be dry humor, no make that humOUr from our friends across the pond. I bring you the late 70's Jaguar XK6 or XJ6 or X-bite me-6. Whatever it is, its a convertible. Now in this elegant looking coach the front windows are normal in operation. Little buttons that raise and lower them. Even the convertible top is conventional. And for those with an E24 or E28, the seat positioners look like war booty brought home from Berlin. But...... This little beauty also has little tiny vestigal triangle windows for the poor souls in back. Why I don't know, cause there ain't no frickin' window switches. The windows roll down when you lower the top. So far so good. But what if its raining and you put the top up? Wouldn't you think the windows would go up too? You silly stupid idiot, of course not. Nooooo. But where are the switches to raise them up. After all I have fancy Connolly hides back there bucko and its raining like a Monsoon in Bangladesh. G** F****** D*****!!!! Where's the owners manual, this ain't my car. Ok, ok, calm down. Its in the trunk. Read, read, read..... Oh no. It can't be! Yes it can. Those of you who own this beast know what's coming. I can't remember word for word what the manual said so I'll do this from memory. "To raise the rear windows, place the car in Park or Neutral (if a manual transmission) Set emergency brake (This isn't safety, you MUST do this) and turn key to position I or II and push on hood release switch." I'll never make fun of BMWs again. Well maybe next week :) Jim ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 19 Apr 2000 11:55:20 -0300 From: "Angelopoulos, Alex" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] ///M Seat Badges Hello folks, Well I placed an order for the ///M seat badges for my E30 ///M3 last week. I went by the dealer today to pick them up, and to my surprise, they have huge nails sticking out the back that are used to mount these suckers on the leather seats. I don't know about you guys, but I get pretty nervous around sharp objects when they are near my interior. Is there some trick to putting these things on the seats without doing any damage? The parts department guys suggest I get a big hammer and wail away. They were obviously joking but I can not think of a much better way of putting them on my sets. The part number for these emblems are: front badges: 52-10-1-927-000 rear badges: 52-20-1-927-590 Any help would be greatly appreciated. Alex 1991 ///M3 sharked and loving it ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 19 Apr 2000 10:09:14 -0500 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [uuc] Re: Garage Floor Paint It's been a while since I did this, but the concrete should be thoroughly cleaned, etched with muriatic (hydrochloric) acid, and then thoroughly rinsed and allowed to dry. The work is in the preparation. Bob > ------------------------------ > > Date: Wed, 19 Apr 2000 08:39:00 -0400 > From: "Andrew Leong" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > Subject: [uuc] Re: Garage Floor Paint > > Hey guys: > > Any additional insight on what prepping need be done PRIOR to applying the > Sherwin Williams paint? For example, how clean does the floor need to > be? Do I need to take off any residue grease/oil (prior owner of house was > mechanic/old car restoration guy)--- Or can I just apply it on? > > Thanks much, > Cheers, > Drew NYC > - -- Robert Moore [EMAIL PROTECTED] ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 19 Apr 2000 08:18:26 -0700 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [uuc] <E23, E28> seat repair Friends: This morning I moved the driver's seat back to get something off the floor (lazy, lazy me), and when I went to move it forward, only one side of the seat bottom moves!!!! Now, the tracks look OK, I can't see anything messed up with it ... for now assume it's OK ... I've repaired the headreast on this seat with the bit-of-coat-hanger-in-the-drive cable trick, is this where I should start with this current problem? TIA for your help! Brian 84 733i 5-speed BMWCCA - ----- Sent using MailStart.com ( http://MailStart.Com/welcome.html ) The FREE way to access your mailbox via any web browser, anywhere! ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 19 Apr 2000 08:36:15 -0700 From: jireland <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] Reply to Helmet Question This has been gone over many times but it's worth repeating. The current Snell rating for Motorcycle helments is M95. For auto racing or driver schools etc. you need a helmet rated SA95. Motorcycle shops often pull this scam. I have recently seen helmets with ratings as old as M85 being sold. Sure M rated helmets are less expensive. When you show up at the track and the tech guys won't let you run how happy will you be. The next Snell update should be SA2000 but these helmets won't be available until the end of the year. When you buy the helmet get a neck brace (collar) as well. It could save you a lot of pain it you crash. If you're racing, you will eventually crash. Jeff Ireland ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 19 Apr 2000 11:21:50 EDT From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [uuc] German Wax Dan- I think you're talking about "Klasse." It is German, and it is, IMHO, very good. I use it and love it. The only wax I know if that has acrylic in it, so it is supposed to be VERY durable. I think it performed very well in the last C.R. test (1994?), but was labled as "expensive." There is an "all in one product," and a "sealnt glaze" and are VERY easy to use. Very hard to find although. Bought it first from the "Harrington" catalog, and ended up tracking down the US importer for a replacement order. He's in S.F. CA, and I could probably dig up his name & number somewhere around here. Anyway, its about $25 for just over a pint if my memory serves me. Way worth it, and it goes a long, long way. 2 years/ bottle with two cars and a cycle. Hope that helps - let me know if you need more info. Greg >Date: Tue, 18 Apr 2000 20:08:24 -0700 >From: "v1rotate" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> >Subject: [uuc] Re: Special German Wax >What was that stuff I used to get for free, came in a skinny red plastic >bottle and had some German name? >Got it at the BMW motorcycle shop I worked at in the late 80's. I figured it >must be liquid magic because I >noticed that it was around 16~18 bucks for that tiny red bottle. >I have to say, it was the best stuff I have ever used (results) but I would >never pay that much for it. Just >wondering if it was tested. >Dan >89 535I >87 K100RS >German cars, German Bikes, German sailplanes, those guys are pretty smart. ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 19 Apr 2000 10:38:03 -0500 (EST) From: Moe Drippins <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [uuc] Reply to Helmet Question jireland writes: > This has been gone over many times but it's worth repeating. > > The current Snell rating for Motorcycle helments is M95. For auto > racing or driver schools etc. you need a helmet rated SA95. > Motorcycle shops often pull this scam. I have recently seen helmets > with ratings as old as M85 being sold. Sure M rated helmets are less > expensive. When you show up at the track and the tech guys won't let > you run how happy will you be. The next Snell update should be > SA2000 but these helmets won't be available until the end of the > year. > > When you buy the helmet get a neck brace (collar) as well. It could > save you a lot of pain it you crash. If you're racing, you will > eventually crash. Not all driver schools require SA. I don't think autocrosses generally do either, but DO CHECK. - -- Just Moe '95 540 6 speed, BL/SS BMWCCA Peachtree Chapter ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 19 Apr 2000 08:43:15 -0700 (PDT) From: Christopher Myers <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] Re:E36 alarm false alarms & a/c sight glass I don't know about M3s, but there definitely is an A/C sight glass on other E36s. I have a '93 and a '94 325i and both have the sight glass on the A/C line near where it connects to the drier, just behind the right headlight. > Date: Tue, 18 Apr 2000 23:48:02 -0400 > From: "Brett Anderson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > Subject: [uuc] Re:E36 alarm false alarms & a/c sight glass > BA > > > From: "Mendez, Andrew D." <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > > Subject: [uuc] E36 alarm false alarms & a/c sight glass & FS:K&N > > > >My alarm has twice > > gone off for no reason at 3 & 4 am in the past couple of weeks. > Also, info > > on how to adjust the DIP switches to reduce sensitivity and what > the > setting > > should be on an E36 coupe would be appreciated (the alarm owner's > manual > > doesn't cover this). > > What year car? What code from the alarm? > > > Second, can anyone tell me where the a/c sight glass is on E36 M3s > or > E36s > > generally? I can't find the damn thing, and suspect the car doesn't > have > > one. > > There isn't one. > > > Brett Anderson > www.koalamotorsport.com > Home of the E30 M3 CD-ROM repair manual __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Send online invitations with Yahoo! Invites. http://invites.yahoo.com ------------------------------ End of [uucdigest] V3 #621 ************************** _________________________________________ | Please visit these UUC-approved BMW parts vendors/service providers: | (listed alphabetically) | Bonneville Motorwerks . http://www.bonnevillemotorwerks.com | Camptown Automotive - http://www.camptownauto.com | Circle Tire Co. 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